I decided to make a new thread that deals with a known problem where a previous thread was trying to diagnose and figure out the problem, and was not what I expected. -- 88 GT Auto 118Kmi
Latest engine update:
I was getting a very loud clanging engine noise which I traced to Cylinder 6 which improved when I disconnected that spark plug wire. I had mistakenly thought it was a low end issue.
Previously about six months ago, I had a stuck valve lifter that went away with some Marvel Mystery oil. It came back in spectacular fashion apparently, however... ---- Latest discovery:
So it looks like a valve lifter decided to end its existence on this earth. I had thought there was a low end problem so I dropped the pan and found what must be three pieces of the retaining clip, a flat round 1 centimeter diameter disc which I think is the oil check valve, another smaller circular half disc, and an assortment of other goodies lying in the oil pan.
I thought I was in deep doodoo but when I pulled the rod caps, there is no damage to the crank journals and most of the rod bearings are in amazing condition. Cylinder 6, which is closest to the oil pump had a groove in the bearing from what I can only assume was a metal fragment that slipped through the oil pump, however, the journal was nice and shiny with no scoring. There is a small nick in each of the two oil pump gears which shouldn't make a difference in operation, but tells me that some metal got through unless it was like that from the factory.
I'm replacing all the rod and main bearings while I'm down there. I still need to check the main bearings but the only one that could be a concern is the first one by the oil pump seeing as how nothing seems to have gotten past the first cylinder in oil flow.
Advice request:
Now for the problem: Seeing as how the bottom end of the engine appears to be fine and a valve lifter likely exploded, what kind of top end damage should I expect. Obviously I will need a new valve lifter and a gasket set, but other than that, what else do I definitely need to replace when I tear into the top end?
My understanding would be if the lifter stuck and then failed, then the valve would remain closed, so the valves should be fine (not have hit the cylinder head). I'm thinking the push rod (the metal rod that goes from the lifter to the rocker arm might have taken a pounding from bouncing around? Would the rocker arm be damaged?
What else should I order this weekend to have in hand when I open it up, and what else check for while I'm in there?
What do you mean by exploded? Valve lifters can collapse internally but I never came across one that blew apart. If it did the oil pump screen and the oil filter may pick up most of the metal particles that you describe. As for engine damage, if the lifer bores measure up you might be OK with a cleaning but I would also check the cylinder bores for scoring.
This is kind of fascinating. Lifters should keep themselves together through the valve spring and the cam, so it's kind of weird how one could fail catastrophically unless it broke at the bottom?
Else something contributed to it like a bent pushrod or something else up in the valvetrain.
Last time I had a 2.8 apart I had a lifter with a missing clip that popped apart when I took a pushrod out, but it was working otherwise.
[This message has been edited by slicknick (edited 02-05-2022).]
Those and maybe a thermostat housing gasket. There might be a way to take it apart without taking off the thermostat housing, but I couldn't really figure it out.
Metal in the pan has to get pickup by oil then get thru Pickup screen, oil pump and oil filter before gets to anything else. Unless maybe the bypass is open for plugged filter, cold heavy oil or has failed. So crap you see above is unlikely cause of damage to a rod journal.
unless V6 has Very large drains from the valley, very little falls thru from cam area.
If that is from a lifter... Don't bother ordering parts until you see actual damage. Because a lifter that "Exploded" likely has a Dead Cam at minimum. May have damage the block too at lest at lifter holes. Replacing a Cam means "pulling" the Engine for most transverse engine cars.
Lifters can't wreck a cylinder w/o something making a big hole in the block.
If the engine has a "spun rod bearing" then piston can hit the head and wreck the piston and more. Only Pulling the pan to fix the bearing is not enough.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Metal in the pan has to get pickup by oil then get thru Pickup screen, oil pump and oil filter before gets to anything else. Unless maybe the bypass is open for plugged filter, cold heavy oil or has failed. So crap you see above is unlikely cause of damage to a rod journal.
unless V6 has Very large drains from the valley, very little falls thru from cam area.
If that is from a lifter... Don't bother ordering parts until you see actual damage. Because a lifter that "Exploded" likely has a Dead Cam at minimum. May have damage the block too at lest at lifter holes. Replacing a Cam means "pulling" the Engine for most transverse engine cars.
Lifters can't wreck a cylinder w/o something making a big hole in the block.
If the engine has a "spun rod bearing" then piston can hit the head and wreck the piston and more. Only Pulling the pan to fix the bearing is not enough.
Ogre thanks for the reply. I already checked the rod bearings and there were no spun bearings. As described above they were all in amazing shape as was the crank. The only exception was the one rod bearing described above which had a groove down the middle which hadn't harmed the crank. Also there was a small notch in both gears of the oil pump which tells me something small snuck through the screen and pump which IMO is what grooved that line in the one rod bearing.
What's your suggestion then as to what these parts are if they're not a lifter than made its way down to the oil pan? I found another thread a while back about someone that found the metal spring retainers for the valve springs in his oil pan.
Id pull the Intake and valve covers to see the valve train and not bother ordering anything until it is apart and you can see whats what. Those felpro blue gaskets are really nice. id also cut apart the oil filter and see what it has. if the oil filter is empty these metal bits did not just happen.
Doesn't sound like a lifter problem to me. I'd expect a failure to the extent proposed to result in a misfire that would be unresponsive to any chemical treatment. It would probably damage the camshaft lobe to some extent also. I've ruined a Fiero V6 aftermarket camshaft before while experimenting and not recognizing that I had a coil bind condition. The motor never made a sound, it gradually got weaker as the cam lobes wore down and fuel economy plummeted over the course of 60 miles after install, until it began to skip. The oil looked like liquid glitter and on top of that experiment, I had also plugged the oil bypass, an idea I got from Chevy HP magazine, and the metal bits plugged the oil filter to the point where the motor would barely to not idle as a result of the pumping load.
I suspect your top engine noise is a damaged piston, perhaps collapsed skirt, broken ring land, piston pin bore irregularity. That type of failure makes a lot of noise up top. I can't imagine a disintegrated lifter is performing any amount of work on a pushrod to make much if any noise.
Yes when I pulled off the front valve cover, on Cylinder 6, I could move the rocker assembly around even to the point where the pushrod wasn't in line. Yup that was the problem.
But then I continued tearing the lower intake out, and when it was removed, I noticed 3 of the valve lifters were coming apart. Cyl 6 Exh, Cyl 4 Exh, Cyl 2 Intake.
Cyl 6, the lifter rod was jammed into the bore of the lifter assembly. The other two lifters, the rods were slid off to the side but still in the lifter correctly. Surprisingly the clip on Cyl 6 had not come out, but it was Cyl 4's clip that I had found in the oil pan. There was also another part of the clip I found in the intake valley.
[This message has been edited by reinhart (edited 02-13-2022).]
Ok so now what? I inspected the block's lifter holes and they don't appeared damaged nor do they seem enlarged at all when I put a good lifter in the bore.
The camshaft doesn't look like there's been any wear from just peering down where I can see it. What should I look for with the camshaft?
The lifters do not appear to have any major scoring on the bottom where they would contact the camshaft.
Here's some pictures of the components:
The push rods and rockers seem fine to me. I was able to blow air through the push rods without much effort so they aren't clogged up inside.
So is it as simple as just buy 12 new lifters and some gaskets and call it a day? Or....?
[This message has been edited by reinhart (edited 02-13-2022).]
Engine hot and valves adjusted right @ minimum, the lifter center never hits the clip because stay a little compressed even when unloaded by cam. IOW Lifters "blew the tops" is often a sign had too much clearance at the rockers...
Over time rockers, balls, and more wear and loosen the parts then lifter center slams the clip and clip fails. That even if the rocker nuts and studs never loosen.
And assuming all had plenty of oil push/pumped thru the rods to the top. Lifters control oil flow to the top. Not the oil pump. Crap oil because people didn't change oil, iffy oil pump, etc can stave the lifters and little or no 1, several, to all rockers. Causing more wear up top.
So is no shock to many when see above pics.
Now take 1 "Ok" lifter. Roll it to make sure sides are ok. Then Put on side and roll against cam face of others lifters. Bowl wear of 1 to all faces often means cam is worn too and putting new filters on worn cam will fail.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 02-13-2022).]
Engine hot and valves adjusted right @ minimum, the lifter center never hits the clip because stay a little compressed even when unloaded by cam. IOW Lifters "blew the tops" is often a sign had too much clearance at the rockers...
Over time rockers, balls, and more wear and loosen the parts then lifter center slams the clip and clip fails. That even if the rocker nuts and studs never loosen.
And assuming all had plenty of oil push/pumped thru the rods to the top. Lifters control oil flow to the top. Not the oil pump. Crap oil because people didn't change oil, iffy oil pump, etc can stave the lifters and little or no 1, several, to all rockers. Causing more wear up top.
So is no shock to many when see above pics.
Now take 1 "Ok" lifter. Roll it to make sure sides are ok. Then Put on side and roll against cam face of others lifters. Bowl wear of 1 to all faces often means cam is worn too and putting new filters on worn cam will fail.
Thanks Ogre. Any thoughts on why the failure would be on one bank only while the other looks perfect?
"putting new filters on worn cam will fail."
What do you mean by this? Fail in what way?
I did the test you suggested of rolling one of the lifter sides on the bottom of the lifters and looks flat to me.
Do you agree I just need to change the lifters out and that's it or anything else needs replacement?
[This message has been edited by reinhart (edited 02-14-2022).]
I would make sure to use high zinc oil if you install new lifters only. This will help in making sure you don't wipe the camshaft with the new lifters. Like Ogre said, it is not a good practice to put only new lifters in, but I have done this on other vehicles and had no issues. When I have had a noisy or collapsed lifter, I have replaced only that lifter and have never had a camshaft fail. I think it has to do with the fact that when I did it, I treated the engine like a freshly rebuilt engine. Put in a new filter and high zinc oil and break it in like a new engine. Go easy on the first 500 miles. Then drain the oil, change the filter and put new high-zinc oil in the vehicle for another 500 miles. You can drive it a little harder during this second phase of break-in, but no sustained highway speeds. Then after this second oil and filter change, use whatever oil you want. For older engines, I use a blend of synthetic and regular 5W-30 oil. I am in the process of breaking in a fresh rebuild right now. I am in the second stage. So far, so good. In your case, after you put the new lifters in, make sure you adjust the valves per manufacturer's recommendations.
quote
Originally posted by reinhart:
Thanks Ogre. Any thoughts on why the failure would be on one bank only while the other looks perfect?
"putting new filters on worn cam will fail."
What do you mean by this? Fail in what way?
I did the test you suggested of rolling one of the lifter sides on the bottom of the lifters and looks flat to me.
Do you agree I just need to change the lifters out and that's it or anything else needs replacement?
I would make sure to use high zinc oil if you install new lifters only. This will help in making sure you don't wipe the camshaft with the new lifters. Like Ogre said, it is not a good practice to put only new lifters in, but I have done this on other vehicles and had no issues. When I have had a noisy or collapsed lifter, I have replaced only that lifter and have never had a camshaft fail. I think it has to do with the fact that when I did it, I treated the engine like a freshly rebuilt engine. Put in a new filter and high zinc oil and break it in like a new engine. Go easy on the first 500 miles. Then drain the oil, change the filter and put new high-zinc oil in the vehicle for another 500 miles. You can drive it a little harder during this second phase of break-in, but no sustained highway speeds. Then after this second oil and filter change, use whatever oil you want. For older engines, I use a blend of synthetic and regular 5W-30 oil. I am in the process of breaking in a fresh rebuild right now. I am in the second stage. So far, so good. In your case, after you put the new lifters in, make sure you adjust the valves per manufacturer's recommendations.
What brand of oil has high zinc? I've never noticed any stating they have it. Alternatively I do remember hearing something about being able to add a zinc additive. Any recommendations on high zinc oil brands or additives?
Also I'm curious what the zinc actually does differently as far as engine wear. Any info on that?
BTW, Put in an order for 12 new lifters and 12 pushrods. The rods were just $20 shipped so figured I'd grab those too. The old ones seem ok but the discolored wear areas might have made those sections slightly thinner I figured so might as well swap them out.
Originally posted by reinhart: Thanks Ogre. Any thoughts on why the failure would be on one bank only while the other looks perfect?
"putting new filters on worn cam will fail."
What do you mean by this? Fail in what way?
I did the test you suggested of rolling one of the lifter sides on the bottom of the lifters and looks flat to me.
Do you agree I just need to change the lifters out and that's it or anything else needs replacement?
"Bowl wear of 1 to all faces often means cam is worn too and putting new filters lifters on worn cam will fail." Just what said... If any lifters faces have bowl wear like a soup bowl then Cam Lobes have exact opposite wear shape and eat up new lifters, often very fast too.
Even if lifter faces are flat, often has problems w/ new lifters on old cams but many are lucky and drive for many years.
1 vs other bank isn't your problem and means nothing. Often is just "bad luck" happens this time to 1 bank. You can have same Fail in just One valve anywhere causing this problem. Any crap that plugs just One lifter or rod can cause more wear and clearance and same "blow the top" problems. Oil that doesn't change, "Boogers" from using RTV Silicone wrong, and more can plug any small port partly or completely blocking oil flow.
Even if You use new oil that can "wash out" parts causing part to plug because flakes of crap is to big to pass thru.
And again that assuming the rocker nuts/studs having loosen the rocker pivot too. You see that in one valve to every valve to different degrees.
⚠️ make sure you put on New Intake Manifold Bottom parts Before Installing the push rods.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by reinhart: Thanks Ogre. Any thoughts on why the failure would be on one bank only while the other looks perfect?
"putting new filters on worn cam will fail."
What do you mean by this? Fail in what way?
I did the test you suggested of rolling one of the lifter sides on the bottom of the lifters and looks flat to me.
Do you agree I just need to change the lifters out and that's it or anything else needs replacement?
"Bowl wear of 1 to all faces often means cam is worn too and putting new filters lifters on worn cam will fail." Just what said... If any lifters faces have bowl wear like a soup bowl then Cam Lobes have exact opposite wear shape and eat up new lifters, often very fast too.
Even if lifter faces are flat, often has problems w/ new lifters on old cams but many are lucky and drive for many years.
1 vs other bank isn't your problem and means nothing. Often is just "bad luck" happens this time to 1 bank. You can have same Fail in just One valve anywhere causing this problem. Any crap that plugs just One lifter or rod can cause more wear and clearance and same "blow the top" problems. Oil that doesn't change, "Boogers" from using RTV Silicone wrong, and more can plug any small port partly or completely blocking oil flow.
Even if You use new oil that can "wash out" parts causing part to plug because flakes of crap is to big to pass thru.
And again that assuming the rocker nuts/studs having loosen the rocker pivot too. You see that in one valve to every valve to different degrees.
⚠️ make sure you put on New Intake Manifold Bottom parts Before Installing the push rods.[/QUOTE]
I'm pretty good about the oil changes...synthetic every 5000-6000 miles. So I had that one collapsed lifter about 6 months ago, I wonder if the Marvel Mystery Oil released the gunk like you describe that ended up clogging up the lifters?
Regarding the "new intake manifold bottom parts" tip, what do you mean by "new"? I'm reusing the old parts except the lifters. I was thinking it would be better to do the pushrods and rockers with the lower manifold out so I can see the camshaft moving the lifters. Are you saying to install the lifters, then the lower manifold, then the pushrods, then do the rockers and valve lash? Are you saying it's not a good idea to do the valve lash with the lower intake out? Curious why that would be?
There are many makers of high-zinc oil. I got mine at the local auto parts store. They also make an additive that you can use with regular oil. The oil I got had a flag on the plastic bottle that said "HIGH-ZINC". Below is something I pulled from the internet that explains the use of zinc in break-in. There is a lot of info on this if you want to research it. I don't know if I have an extra bottle of the oil I used, but if I do, I will take a pix of it and post it here.
What is high zinc motor oil? Engine builders and gearheads typically use high-zinc and high-phosphorus (ZDDP) motor oil to offer extra protection for flat-tappet cams, lifters and other components during break-in. AMSOIL Break-In Oil, for example, contains 2,200 ppm zinc and 2,000 ppm phosphorus.
ZDDP anti-wear additives are heat-activated, meaning they provide wear protection in areas of increased friction. In this case, it’s at the cam lobe/tappet interface. The additives form a sacrificial layer on part surfaces, which absorbs contact and helps prevent cam and tappet wear. That way, your engine makes maximum power and lasts as designed.
quote
Originally posted by reinhart:
What brand of oil has high zinc? I've never noticed any stating they have it. Alternatively I do remember hearing something about being able to add a zinc additive. Any recommendations on high zinc oil brands or additives?
Also I'm curious what the zinc actually does differently as far as engine wear. Any info on that?
[This message has been edited by eti engineer (edited 02-16-2022).]
Can of worms here with oil, and as much as I would like to write up a long detailed post of all the data, I only have time to briefly touch on a few bullet points...
- High zinc phosphorous oils (1200 to 1500 ppm) are generally used for older engines (pre-1975) with flat tappet camshafts to prevent wear - Generally speaking, these oils with higher levels are more relevant with higher performance engines - Popular quality oils with high levels are Valvoline VR1 and Penn Grade 1, previously known as Brad Penn and Kendal GT1 in the 80's (green PA crude) - As roller camshafts came into being these higher levels were less important - As catalytic convertors came into being they discovered those high levels were harmful to the convertors
PS: Side note, this is where things get tricky with an 80's car like the Fiero where the 2.8 V6 has a flat tappet camshaft AND and a catalytic convertor. Because the 2.8 V6 is not a high performance engine/camshaft you don't need 1200 to 1500 ppm AND that would also be harmful to the convertor over time. However, most modern oils being sold today (synthetic or dino) the levels are too low for an old flat tappet cam motor, so the balance is in-between. I posted some info recently...
...because that is one of the few oils out there that fits the old 2.8 V6 narrow criteria and hits all the check marks, has additional benefits for people still running their original 2.8 V6, and its one of the better oils on the market, making it an ideal oil for an old 2.8 V6. (most other oils will be lacking in one area or another)
[This message has been edited by Skybax (edited 02-17-2022).]
Fiero and most other in 80's call for API SF/CC oil. Read the owner's manual. Is likely online somewhere...
Many "High Zinc" oils fail to meet SF because of Sky High Zinc and more. Often have High to Very High levels of Phosphorus too that also kills the cat.
Oil type did Not cause the above problem.
My posts above covers most except 1... Simple: No-one adjusted the valves in 100,000+ miles and some lifters failed as parts worn some. Often OE parts are Not made or adjusted exact same and have a tolerance... Some parts are @ high in that range and others set low in that range. Parts don't wear the same either in 100,000 miles or more even when has right API oil for the engine.
The problem here is that the oil pressure overcame the circlips holding capacity. You can replace the wimpy wire clips with real snap rings. If you look at all the Hi Performance lifters they use snaprings, not wireclips.
[This message has been edited by La fiera (edited 02-18-2022).]
Got all the parts I need to finish the job. I've got the lifters and push rods installed, the valve lash lashed, and the lower intake back on. Spent about two hours just cleaning caked on oil off the valve covers and other pieces.
Also I checked the lifter travel in order to determine the state of affairs with the camshaft. It seems like everything is in order. I paid special attention to #6 exhaust and others that were acting up and the lifters seemed to have as much movement as the other healthy lifters do. No abnormal wear that I can see or decreased travel.
Regarding the thicker lifter clips, yes that would have prevented the catastrophic failure of the lifter, however, as someone pointed out earlier, the valve lash should have been adjusted enough to allow for wear without the lifter ever topping out and touching the hold clips.
I've been thinking more about the failures all in the front bank. My theory now is I think it started with 1 lifter collapsing (#6 exhaust). The collapsed lifter tapping caused vibrations in the front head which resulted in the rocker nuts backing out on most of the rockers. Once they backed out enough and started contacting the clips, disaster was sure to happen. The rear bank is all perfect, I could have reused everything in that bank especially the lifters. There was a good amount of valve lash there as opposed to the front bank where it seems like even the ones that hadn't totally failed were on the cusp (getting crooked, etc).
Looks like the front valve cover grommet is leaking, anyone know if there's a "Help!" item for that I can buy?
Also I noticed that fuel line that goes from the fuel rail to the lower manifold can easily be rotated around. Is that normal? What kind of connection is this that it can hold pressurized fuel and be that flimsy?
I didn't see it mentioned, so I'll go ahead and jump in. Since you are installing new lifters, you should probably use assembly lube, such as moly lube, or some other assembly lube, on the faces of the lifters, and the cam lobes.. Run the engine at a higher RPM (2500-3K or so) as if you were breaking in a new cam. Don't let it idle for a few minutes. Keep that oil flowing.
Others may offer advice in this regard. I've only ever had to break in a couple of cams, but I've never had any problems, after the fact. I did, however, turn my headers a nice red color.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 02-18-2022).]
I didn't see it mentioned, so I'll go ahead and jump in. Since you are installing new lifters, you should probably use assembly lube, such as moly lube, or some other assembly lube, on the faces of the lifters, and the cam lobes.. Run the engine at a higher RPM (2500-3K or so) as if you were breaking in a new cam. Don't let it idle for a few minutes. Keep that oil flowing.
Others may offer advice in this regard. I've only ever had to break in a couple of cams, but I've never had any problems, after the fact. I did, however, turn my headers a nice red color.
Yes I used the lube on the engine bearings and the cam lobes. Also I did read an article about running it at 2500 for 30 minutes. Not sure I'll do it that long but five minutes or so is good.
Got the valve covers on today. Was a lot more difficult that I expected to keep the gaskets lined up especially the front bank while maneuvering around some coolant hoses and brackets. Had to use a mirror to verify the gasket was in line with the bolt holes and use a small screwdriver to move it around until it was. For those that got the valve covers back on without removing the middle/upper intake and don't have any leaks, I applaud you.
Need to do the middle and upper intake and still need to seal up the bottom of the engine. I left the oil pan loose since I didn't know what was going on up top and didn't want to have to tear the bottom out again if there was something like piston issues.
Hopefully will get this finished up this weekend. I'm currently at 51.5 hours spent on this project.
[This message has been edited by reinhart (edited 02-19-2022).]
One thing that boggles my mind: With the Fel Pro gasket set it includes like 4 different thermostat housing to intake manifold gaskets, yet not one of them fits the Fiero as far as I can tell.
Originally posted by reinhart: One thing that boggles my mind: With the Fel Pro gasket set it includes like 4 different thermostat housing to intake manifold gaskets, yet not one of them fits the Fiero as far as I can tell.
Because most kits assume FWD engine that most doesn't use Fiero T-stat house.
Many FWD and Inline "Dukes" also don't use Fiero T-stat house too. Worse, Duke in Fiero uses 2 of them and 2nd type gasket is totally not available and never was.
Yea I have like 5 extra gaskets I don't need. I might have gotten a better deal had I known I only needed like 5 gaskets out of the 12 gasket set. Seems like they would be smart to just make a separate part number for a Fiero kit that includes just the gaskets needed and charge $5 less.
Well finally got everything put together, but it looks like I didn't get the starter installed correctly as I just hear the starter grinding and the engine didn't turn at all (still at the 10 degrees mark on the balancer). I didn't actually remove the starter just loosened the bolts and put it slightly forward so I could get the oil pan off. So I wouldn't have lost a shim if there was one. I need to figure out why the starter isn't contacting the flywheel. Starter bolts are tight. Anyone have any ideas on what I did wrong jut tightening down the starter?
There was a factory shim. I had removed one of the two bolts, the inner one, when I swung the starter away to get the oil pan out. When I replaced that bolt, I didn't have the shim in line with the second bolt (the shim had rotated to the side). Consequently, a both shim condition was transformed into an outer bolt only shim condition which moved the starter in two magnitudes and thus it was hitting the side of the flywheel. I replaced the shim and that solved the starter problem.
The car took forever to turn over...like 10-15 seconds of cranking (was about to give up and reroute the spark plug wires thinking I had gotten the timing off 180 degrees), but just before I was about to give up, it finally turned over and started right up and when it did sounded wonderful.
Considering how much was removed and replaced, perhaps surprisingly, I really only had two minor mistakes: 1) The starter shim, 2) I hadn't tightened one of the small thermostat hoses tight enough and it was leaking from there like a sieve.
Got those sorted out and now the car is running great. No codes or anything unusual. One small issue is the accelerator is sticking now. Happened twice during the test drive. I'll need to figure out if I just need to lube up the throttle spring or if I routed something wrong there. I never removed the throttle body from the upper plenum but it was sitting outside for 3 weeks so maybe got some dirt or corrosion in the spring area.
One other quick note. The oil pressure is amazing now. Granted I did get higher viscosity oil for the break in period (20-50) but it's at 70 psi just cruising at 50 mph with the engine moderately warmed up. I'll be curious what the pressure is like when I revert back to 10-30 oil.
Thanks for all the help in this thread.
Consider this one case closed.
[This message has been edited by reinhart (edited 02-22-2022).]
Wanted to give a 6 month update. Car is still running perfectly with great oil pressure! Gas mileage has increased by 15% pre-operation, which is especially welcome at this time.
Wanted to give a 6 month update. Car is still running perfectly with great oil pressure! Gas mileage has increased by 15% pre-operation, which is especially welcome at this time.
Congratulations and thanks for sharing the good news!
Thanks. I had just replaced both manifolds with ported ones due a cracked front manifold just 6 months prior to this engine rebuild (plus I run without a cat) and I must say the car sounds and runs absolutely amazing now. Better than new!
