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Headlight Motor 88 Formula by Mcain5
Started on: 01-26-2023 05:39 PM
Replies: 8 (157 views)
Last post by: theogre on 01-27-2023 12:36 AM
Mcain5
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Report this Post01-26-2023 05:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mcain5Send a Private Message to Mcain5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Replacing Headlight Motors on the 88.

I replaced the Left front head light motor and when I turn the lights on, the light goes down. Turn the lights off and the light comes up. Passenger side is working with the up and down motion like normal, other than its stripped out and cannot keep itself up at this point.

Is there an issue with how the motor was installed? Kept everything the same from removing the old and putting in the new. Motor works fine. Just backwards.

I have a new headlight switch if there is a possibility that it is causing the issue. I have already replaced the new motor with another new motor just to test if the wiring was backward in it and it did the same thing.

Thank you in advance!
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theogre
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Report this Post01-26-2023 06:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
"new" motors from where??

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fierofool
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Report this Post01-26-2023 06:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You can remove the motor, cut the two wires and splice them back together opposite of how they were. If they were Cardone motors, they seem to be having a few quality control issues as oft late. Two sets on a friend's Formula failed in short order. He purchased some used OEM and they are working perfectly.

As for the one that is stripped out, that's a fairly simple rebuild with Rodney's repair kit. Just remove the side plate and the drive shaft, clean out the crud, install the new bump stops, and reassemble. DO NOT take the motor apart.

I remember that with one of the motors, it's difficult to get the shaft and gear out because a shoulder on the gear fits behind the motor screw shaft. Which side, I don't remember, but when reinstalling the gear, you can file or grind off that shoulder in one spot, align it with the screw shaft, and it will slide right back into place.
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Mcain5
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Report this Post01-26-2023 07:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mcain5Send a Private Message to Mcain5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
A1 cardone from oreillys.
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Mcain5
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Report this Post01-26-2023 07:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mcain5Send a Private Message to Mcain5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Mcain5

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I have a "new" motor for the passenger side as well. I was thinking that maybe the wires were swapped from their rebuild. I will try that as well.

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theogre
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Report this Post01-26-2023 08:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I didn't think Cardone still offers Rebuild units, only New units now and doesn't need a core or core charge to buy.

If you fix new motors by cutting wires and other obvious changes then have No warranty.
Cardone New HL Motors have "lifetime" warranty.
Just return as defective out of box.

If order on-line then some chain like AZ and Advance Auto, you return cores etc to the local store so don't have to ship them.
Just read web site.

Plug "pins" are "pull 2 seat" Metripack and can't remove like others.
See my Cave, Weater/Metri Pack notes

So If you cut wires to fix this, use "weather proof" heat shrink that has "glue" inside to keep out water.
3M and others make crimps w/ same but many don't have good crimper and make bad crimps, cut the plastic or both. Cut the plastic is easier because shrink tube is thinner and easy to cut because you crimp before heating to shrink. Even then is different plastic vs "normal" insulated crimps.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 01-26-2023).]

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Mcain5
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Report this Post01-26-2023 09:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Mcain5Send a Private Message to Mcain5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I cut and spliced the wiring. Used heat shrink and sealed them nice and wrapped them as well. Light is now going up and down properly. But now my problem has become, it will not lift the light through the hood flap. 😂 these darn fieros always make things interesting.
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fierofool
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Report this Post01-26-2023 10:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It might just be out of adjustment. Loosen the 4 nuts that hold the assembly and with the headlight fully raised, adjust the assembly so that the mechanism touches both the teflon rub strips on the headlight door at the same time and in the center of the rub strips. You might also try pressing the headlight ON button a second time if the headlight doesn't raise. I replaced my headlight switch for cosmetic purposes and encountered that problem and found that solution. Bad one from the parts store. Ordered another one from The Fiero Store and it works properly.

I think the reason for the motor running backward is that they are wired for the Firebird. Using Firebird motors, the right and left must be swapped to opposite sides when used in the Fieros. So, one side of the Firebird motor would run backward of what we need.

My friend I mentioned above works for Auto Zone. That's where he bought both sets of motors. Lifetime warranty is a joke if you don't have a receipt, he said.
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theogre
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Report this Post01-27-2023 12:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:
My friend I mentioned above works for Auto Zone. That's where he bought both sets of motors. Lifetime warranty is a joke if you don't have a receipt, he said.
He's a moron or a liar.
AZ Stores tracks all warranties under your phone number. I've use this for decades. I keep a record of old phone numbers just for this reason and when AZ starter w/ lifetime warranty died a couple years ago, have it under old number from last house I owned. Bought that 15+ years ago and long lost the receipt and from a different store too.

Advance Auto is similar and been so for decades too. And Both did this way before had loyalty programs.

Also bought on-line AZ & AA parts and return cores etc to local stores. Currently You need a "receipt" so local store get the transaction # etc. If lost can get it on web site or call web customer service. Did both to return a defective parts last month.

Pep Boys had huge problems when sold part. Even if have a Receipt you had to go to Same Store because Other Pep Boys won't take most returns or warranty problems from another store.
NAPA is nothing but Sears Parts Stores slapping NAPA brands, jacking prices with little or no warranty. Even Standard T series parts have a better warrant and most that carries them doesn't give you crap when a part is DOA. The only thing I bought in NAPA years ago was bulk pack of small car light bulbs because cheaper and last same as Phillips et al.
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