So I am powering through a capstone project for my degree.
What I came up with is a complete retrofit system for gen 1 Fiero headlights. That requires no modication's to the wiring harness of the Fiero, beyond the removal of a few relays. It utilizes the original gen 1 headlight motor housing, gears and armatures. (You will still need Rodney's gear set. But does away with the complex internal switch setup inside and includes a new brush holder assembly to replace the older white assembly that has the circuit breaker and disconnect assembly. It uses a custom circuit that's included with the kit that has a alternative by shockingly similar way of detecting headlight up and down conditions. The controller box also has accessory wires for a blink and wink function (left and right selectable) The circuit is made out of hyper common components and is end user repairable. I found the most common failure of the Gen 1 Headlight is simply the brush holder and the brushes. Along with the relays necessary to support the system. The armature is almost always serviceable.
Is this something the Fiero community would be interested in? Its running through course trials at the moment and I could have a few units ready to ship by the summer. (Price should be about 200 dollars for the complete drop in set). I currently have 10 Fiero's in my area with the kit installed and am gathering data regarding cold weather performance. (Negative F temperatures)
I just want to see if the desire for a gen one repair kit that doesn't need to cannibalize a 88 or 87 is there. If not I'm just going to enjoy my working headlights
Heres a quick teaser of the new brush holder, mind you they have already been produced and installed on a working 84, 85 and 86 Fiero.
Let me know if this is something you think you would want so I can determine if I will mass produce them after my class is concluded.
[This message has been edited by Dukesterpro (edited 02-02-2023).]
Something like this is badly needed. I am quickly running out of good limiter switches and we don't have many 87 and 88's to cannibalize. Had a run on limiter switches in the last couple of months.
Some questions about your design function.
How does it interrupt the power to the motor at the end of travel? Does it still use contact point sets?
Is there any kind of interrupter that replaces the thermal switch in the event your design fails to shut off power at the end of travel?
Does it eliminate the Isolation Relay? Motor relays are still available but the Isolation Relay is only available as a used piece.
1. Since the way the headlight detects up and down is crucial to the patent it was recommended by my professor that I file, I can't divulge precisely how the headlight detects its up and down position. I will say however retrofit does not have any mechanical, optical, or sonic limiting device.
2. The last case of failure is a simple fusible link. However, in the case of failure, my design utilizes a default off state, meaning that if something fails or detection isn't found within a set time limit it will ALWAYS cut power. There are effectively 3 phases of protection. First in the operation code, then the 6amp fusible link, and finally the 8 Amp max of the power bridge on the controller meaning the motor and car's wiring is always going to be safe from shorts or fails. Interestingly enough the headlight can detect intrusions or interrupts and will also know to cut power if say, the headlight pot fails and jams or something interferes with the rising of the headlight (pretty girl sitting on the hood, if only) without burning up a fusible link or the controller.
3. And my favorite part. It completely eliminates all relays on the headlight motor section of the headlights. Only requiring fused constant voltage and the on and off signal from the headlight switch). The motor relay and isolation relays are removed during the installation.
extras: Something I should also mention is that the kit will also allow for a delay on the headlight if so desired. In which the headlight will not turn on until the bucket has fully raised or is interrupted. This is not required to use the kit, however. Five of the Fieros that I have running trials use the delay on the headlight the owners are apparently quite happy with its operation.
I also considered making a run on a replacement limit switch that would direct swap the original with a more reliable digital circuit breaker and optical instead of mechanical switches. But deemed the idea somewhat pointless as the failure of the isolation relay dooms the headlight system anyway. Down with the isolation relay!
My 85 headlights are operational and have Rodney's kit already. But I would definitely get your mod for sure. Anything to modernize them is a plus. $200 is a very fair price for what you are describing as this retrofit kit.
continued development projects for our beloved Fieros are always something I follow eagerly. I'd definitely like to know more - got any more photos, of the bracket, of the PCB ?
Here's a quick pic of the 3d printed brush assembly housing compared to a OEM brush housing. We are using ABS filament followed by a Acetone bath finish and a liquid nitrogen bath for strengthening. There is two designs of this housing circulation. This is the one I assume to be the weaker of the two, but only the trial period will tell. They have bolt on, removable brush arms, because I hate the way you had to attach the brushes on the old one. Brush wear for the time being will still be an issue, but my plan is to provide replacement brush arms that just bolt in instead of having to use the glue method that Rodney's brushes have but only time will tell. I am also experimenting with some alternative brushes, but they seem to be far too hard and eat into the armature. Oh well, can't win them all.
When the test Fiero's come back into town on February 25th, I will post a full video of the headlight system in action.
Further. An most importantly. I may not be always be able to provide kits for sale, the last thing I want to have happen is for me to fall away from the Fiero community and the tech to be lost behind a wall of red tape and custom PCBs. The control box will be made from entirely premade and readily available parts. The main PCB is standard Arduino Uno (With hard soldered components and waterproof coating, not just an Arduino taped to a box). The other components will be announced when the kit does go up for sale. But are readily available on amazon. So I ever disappear you will be able to purchase replacement components on the open market. No proprietary parts.
I'm sure many will just reverse engineer my kit and make there own. But its more important to me that the Fiero community have a permanent fix to the headlight problem, than to make an extra few hundred bucks. The only reason I'm considering pursuing the patent on the idea if it works out. (I don't believe it will qualify but my instructor seems confident) is to prevent blatant Chinese copycats from stealing my work and slapping it on amazon for pennies on the dollar.
Looking good. I don't believe you will have to worry about somebody copying that design. There's a market but not a big enough market to tool up for another headlight motor control system.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
Cool to see some development going on to improve these ancient systems! I'm seeing more and more 3D printing tech used to restore and improve our cars. This is such a great application for it. I've also been designing and printing Fiero-related parts for the last couple years.
What is the material for the original brush holder? Is it ABS? I expected it to be nylon, perhaps even glass-fiber reinforced. There should be a material code like "ABS" or "PA66" molded into the part so you can tell.
quote
Originally posted by Dukesterpro: The only reason I'm considering pursuing the patent on the idea if it works out. (I don't believe it will qualify but my instructor seems confident) is to prevent blatant Chinese copycats from stealing my work and slapping it on amazon for pennies on the dollar.
A patent publicly discloses the method you use. This can make it very easy for someone to copy. In fact, for your patent to be accepted one of the requirements is that your public disclosure includes enough detail that someone sufficiently experienced in the art can reproduce it.
If the technique is not easy for someone else to discover or reverse engineer, it might be better to keep it as a trade secret -- meaning to never disclose it. That means no patent so it's up to you to protect the details of the invention from getting out.
Once someone copies your invention you have to take them to court (with your money) to prove they are violating your patent. Taking down foreign copycats for violating your US patent is expensive, difficult, or impossible. The cost of the initial patent application and attorney fees is probably more than you can make for selling these parts for Fieros. If your invention has applications beyond Fiero headlights, that may maket its worth pursuing a patent for, but you should call a patent attorney for consultation to understand the upfront and continuing costs for securing and maintaing patents.
[This message has been edited by Steven Snyder (edited 02-07-2023).]
The original holder to my understanding was nylon. Which has a few pros and cons. Nylon is very chemical resistant and temperature resistant. But its flexible and not very strong.
My new ones are 100% ABS. Which is very very strong, good temperature resistance, but can absorb chemicals and be compromised easier. However, since it is going to be in a sealed enclosure that should only ever be exposed to lithium grease, I'm willing to gamble in the long term chemical absorption will be a non issue.
Hopefully, I will have some more info for you soon, I have one field fiero coming back for repairs soon. These headlight assemblies have been operating up until recently in sub zero (-10F at the lowest) temperatures.
My plan is no more than 200 dollars shipped to your door.
Which includes:
-2x 3d printed brush holders with brushes pre-installed and prewired. (4 screws, remove cover plate, pop your old ones out and slip the new ones in).
-1x headlight control module (plug and play after removing the old isolation and motor relays) .
-1x Crossover Harness.
The harness and buttons for the wink effect will be up to the final owner to source since there are multiple ways of going about it. If the desire is high I will see if I can manufacture a custom one that resembles the stock headlight rocker to fill one of the blank panels.
The only thing that would be independently sourced is the gear kit from Rodney Dickman if your headlights are truly borked and in the mean time the button and two wire harness to run the option wink feature.
My plan is no more than 200 dollars shipped to your door.
Which includes:
-2x 3d printed brush holders with brushes pre-installed and prewired. (4 screws, remove cover plate, pop your old ones out and slip the new ones in).
-1x headlight control module (plug and play after removing the old isolation and motor relays) .
-1x Crossover Harness.
The harness and buttons for the wink effect will be up to the final owner to source since there are multiple ways of going about it. If the desire is high I will see if I can manufacture or source a custom one that resembles the stock headlight rocker to fill one of the blank panels.
The only two things that would be independently sourced is the gear kit from Rodney Dickman if your headlights are truly borked. As well as the button and two wire harness to run the optional wink feature. The switch to select the left and right side will be built into the control module.
For clarification the wink function and the crossover cable are unrelated.
The wink function is a just for fun addition to the controller. I just figured if I am going to write all that code, might as well bake that ability on there since I am doing all the work anyways. It is an extra two wires you have to to hook up only if you want the function, otherwise leave the cap for the plug in place and ignore it.
The cross over cable is what connects the motor on the passenger side to the controller box that sits on the driver side, where the Isolation relay used to be. Since the extra wiring for the old setup isn't needed, you remove the wires going across and secure my new harness in its place. The point of the "crossover harness" being included is that in order for me to define the kit as "drop in" in good faith, is that the end user, you, doesnt have to make any wire harness or figure out any lengths. Just cut out the old and plug in the new.
Would your end-of-travel detection circuit work with a Gen 2 motor? Cardone Gen 2 motors are readily available on Rockauto, and would obviate the need for users to modify Gen 1 motors. It's the Gen 2 electronic black box which is hard to get.
I see that your brush holder is not injection-moldable. 3D-printing offers much more design freedom!
Regarding grease compatibility with plastics, you don't need to gamble. Cover a piece of plastic with grease for two weeks, then see if it has softened, or if the dimensions have changed (before/after). Two weeks is often enough time to make compatibility problems appear, but longer is better.
I'd run a user-replaceable fuse rather than a fusible link. If the fusible link burns, you'll be getting a customer complaint. If a fuse burns, there's a good chance the customer will be able to fix the problem on their own. If you screw up on specifying the fusible link, and need to change the current rating, probably customers would be able to do this in the field. BTW, recalls happen in the automotive world...
I hope the Arduino is well-isolated from the outside world; I assume it wouldn't take kindly to a load dump.
Regarding custom PCBs, if you release Gerber files, people won't be stuck in the future. If you order PCBs through OSHPark, anyone can order (few clicks of a mouse) a PCB that has already been ordered through OSHPark.
3D-printed electronics enclosures are generally not watertight. If you aren't going to have injection-molded plastic, you probably need to fill the enclosure with potting resin.
1.) I would need to get ahold of a Gen 2 motor, my 88GT has one but the hood is currently very frozen shut and won't be able to open for a few more months lol. If they work the way I assume they do. I would say yes. It could work with Gen 2 motors but likely would need a selector switch installed. Are gen 2 headlights 2-wire or 3-wire?
2.) I will go ahead and run the experiment, but with my work in HO models, in which I 3D print truck towers that contain the same grease found in the headlight assembly, I am fairly confident.
3.) Will absolutely go with a replaceable fuse, but will maintain the fusible link to prevent misuse. My major concern is someone installing an overrated fuse and starting a fire which would be a tremendous liability on my end. There will always be a fusible link.
4.) Arduino will be powered through a protected power supply to prevent damage.
5.) A custom PCB is not out of the question, but in the meantime, I am going to stick with the individual components simply due to how easily serviceable they are.
6.) 3d print enclosure should be sufficient as long as the service port is sealed with rtv. Much like the original housing. Previous generations struggled with layer separation. But my modern setup has made fully water-tight boxes that have held up quite well. Additionally, this box does have to be 100 percent watertight, just enough to shield the electronics from splashes. The electronics will be conformally coated for humidity protection. Pottin resin is a sin. I work with Headline ECM motors that use potting resin and solemnly swear I will never ever submit another Fiero owner to such an inhumane experience.
[This message has been edited by Dukesterpro (edited 02-07-2023).]
"Retrofit kit" Sorry but various ways "deleting" the Gen1 switches etc. over 20+ years here alone including hand operating power to motors or whatever timers... About only thing different in new brush assembly. ● This "New Module" must do all things the OE Gen2 module does because pulling relays and other mod's on Gen1 is another version of Gen2 system. Simple Timer that cuts power for up/down isn't enough and will cause big problems when the motor is in Stall Condition. That can happen for Full up/down or Any Time between either happens when doors and other things Jam. Stalled motor can draw 2 to several times more Amps then a Running motor an burn parts in a new module or whatever is weak. See my Cave, Gen 2 HL Motor ● Winking is often Illegal and treated as HL out if a cop sees that. Depending on state when cops stops you is a Fine and some cases Fine and Points. This is a "Primary Offense" to Stop in most states and give them easy way to "go fishing" for other stuff can arrest you for. ● Hope you have good lawyer(s) and insurance to Sell modified Gen 1 controls. If the mod sold to anyone cause a fire like Gen2 system can (Covered here and in the Cave) when DIY tries to fix the module then expect getting sued. Worse If a buyer has a wreck or other people involved in that wreck and lawyers find a shred to tied the wreck to you, expect their suing you. Aftermarket parts including this "kit" can face Recall by NHTSA or other federal problems selling across state lines. Could go INC or maybe LLC to protect your house etc better but that cost a lot too to start and every year + More Business Taxes and Fees.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 02-07-2023).]
Example 4 both web search: red sole counterfeit stopped Louboutin's spend Millions of $ € and more and still do to fight counterfeiting their shoes.
● Using "Arduino" hardware and Open Source coding can Block you from Patent and other IP Protection. Read the various licenses like the GNU General Public License attach to nearly all Arduino hardware and software including most/all Libraries. "They" can and have sued people and companies for violating these open source licenses.
Plus have "Prior Art" using Arduino to control HL motors that's likely to cause problems if you get a Patent then Sue others because they can use that to crush your Patent.
⚠️ USPTO will "Patent" a lot of crap that should not have gotten one like Method of exercising a cat https://patents.google.com/patent/US5443036A/en This crap Patent, just 1 in millions, was a "gift" to a kid and now Expired but unenforceable w/o deep pockets to sue and likely more reasons. Only gotten worse after PTO "upgrades" passed by Congress years ago now. PTO gets all $ to file a patent then requires anyone to pay $20,000+ just to file a counter angst a bad Patent. MS and Many others will patent almost everything and PTO just takes their money and slap numbers with near no review.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 02-07-2023).]
Originally posted by Dukesterpro: 1.) I would need to get ahold of a Gen 2 motor, my 88GT has one but the hood is currently very frozen shut and won't be able to open for a few more months lol. If they work the way I assume they do. I would say yes. It could work with Gen 2 motors but likely would need a selector switch installed. Are gen 2 headlights 2-wire or 3-wire?
3.) Will absolutely go with a replaceable fuse, but will maintain the fusible link to prevent misuse. My major concern is someone installing an overrated fuse and starting a fire which would be a tremendous liability on my end. There will always be a fusible link.
1.) Cardone AZ and some others have w/ warranty. Ebay cheaper w/o warranty. Needs shorter/longer bolts to replace Gen1 motors. Wiring, Again, See my Cave, Gen 2 HL Motor
3.) Fuses and Fusible Links Often Do Not prevent HL motor and other fires. Follow links on same page alone. Both hopefully Prevents the Battery and the Alt dumping 10's to Hundreds of Amps in a Short Circuit that can burn the whole car down and fast.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 02-07-2023).]
"Retrofit kit" Sorry but various ways "deleting" the Gen1 switches etc. over 20+ years here alone including hand operating power to motors or whatever timers... About only thing different in new brush assembly. ● This "New Module" must to all things the OE Gen2 module does because pulling relays and other mod's on Gen1 is another version of Gen2 system. Simple Timer that cuts power for up/down isn't enough and will cause big problems when the motor is in Stall Condition. That can happen for Full up/down or Any Time between either happens when doors and other things Jam. Stalled motor can draw 2 to several times more Amps then a Running motor an burn parts in a new module or whatever is weak. See my Cave, Gen 2 HL Motor ● Winking is often Illegal and treated as HL out if a cop sees that. Depending on state when cops stops you is a Fine and some cases Fine and Points. This is a "Primary Offense" to Stop in most states and give them easy way to "go fishing" for other stuff can arrest you for. ● Hope you have a good lawyer(s) and insurance to Sell modified Gen 1 controls. If the mod sold to anyone causes a fire as Gen2 system can (Covered here and in the Cave) when DIY tries to fix the module then expect getting sued. Worse If a buyer has a wreck or other people involved in that wreck and lawyers find a shred to tied the wreck to you, expect their suing you. Aftermarket parts including this "kit" can face Recall by NHTSA or other federal problems selling across state lines. Could go INC or maybe LLC to protect your house etc better but that costs a lot too to start and every year + More Business Taxes and Fees.
A lot to unpack here. But I like the feedback so let's get started.
1) As I mentioned this is not a dumb system using timers or other crap like that. The micro in my setup recognizes up, down, and interrupt conditions. For example, the headlights are on the way up, and someone pushes down on one of the headlight buckets while they are halfway up (or anywhere in between). The micro will detect the intrusion and "immediately, (<1/1000 of a second) cut power and note the failure to fully rise and freeze the headlight, until the next input from the light switch.
2) If you choose to use the winking feature while on a public road, that's on you. In my state, it's not considered illegal. In fact, it's covered under headlight interrupt laws that most states, including California, have for headlights that turn off when indicating a turn while stopped. While I absolutely would not recommend using the wink function on a public road. Just having the ability isn't going to get you dragged out of the car for a fresh ticket. Use it responsibly like any other car show gimmick (underflow, RGB headlight halos etc)
3) As much as you are right. Sometimes we have to do what we legally can and pray for the best. What's stopping me from going to the Ogre's cave, incorrectly following your good advice, having a accident, and going and whining to some scumbag lawyer about how some guy on the internet made a site with instructions told me to do what I did, even if I incorrectly followed your advice. Not that I would ever do this. But my point is If we all lived in fear of litigation we might as well just pack it in here and never fix anything on our cars again. Now I understand the nuance of me selling a kit and you providing a service but I'm willing to do my legal duties and get the kit out for people to use. Also, my design doesn't interfere with the manual hand crank so headlights will always be available. I am, very, very confident in my design's ability to prevent fires. There is multiple fail-safes that will fail long before max stall current is achieved, more so than even the original system.
[This message has been edited by Dukesterpro (edited 02-09-2023).]
Again, I am only going with the patent thing if that works to ensure a solid grade in the class to keep my instructor and grader happy. I don't want to deal with the headache, but my initial thoughts about protection from Chinese knockoffs were definitely overly optimistic. I absolutely agree with you here.
Cardone AZ and some others have w/ warranty. Ebay cheaper w/o warranty. Needs shorter/longer bolts to replace Gen1 motors. Wiring, Again, See my Cave, Gen 2 HL Motor
3.) Fuses and Fusible Links Often Do Not prevent HL motor and other fires. Follow links on same page alone. Both hopefully Prevents the Battery and the Alt dumping 10's to Hundreds of Amps in a Short Circuit that can burn the whole car down and fast.
[/QUOTE]
I'm going to bring in a set of gen 2s then! I will consult your cave for the wiring. Hopefully, I can mount them onto the test Fiero's after the gen 1 trials are over.
The circuit protection I am using is already widespread in the industry I am in. They protect significantly more fragile circuits, from significantly more juice.
Thanks for all the feedback, you suggestions and concerns have been noted.
I will keep you all updated. My second gen headlight arrived and was nearly plugged and played with my new controller. Just needed some adjustments in the code.
Please stay tuned for more updates
[This message has been edited by Dukesterpro (edited 02-09-2023).]
You mention micro switches... Likely not to control power to motors direct but even "sealed inside" of Gen1 motors etc micro switches have a Very long history of problems. (Gen1 motors keep most crap out but generate dirt from bush wear etc.) Example: Is one of the biggest problems computer "mice" of any type is dust etc will get in them and fail to click no matter what position sensing used. I clean hundreds of all types when "dead" to have spares to keep people working in "Fortune 500" size businesses. Optical mouse only solve 1 part of ball mouse problems. Nearly all use cheap unsealed micro switches for buttons.
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Are you using Relays to switch power to the motors? If true... Data "printed" on relays and switches are for Resistive Loads. Buy from even best brands that also publish valid data sheets you find Inductive Loads like motors only accept < 1/3 to 1/2 amp rating @ giving volts for AC or maybe DC.
Omron and some others have good Data Sheets. Other cheap relays may have a "DS" but missing a lot of data or completely ignore inductive data and/or testing means has No Rating for this but many treat as 10 amps is 10 amps regardless of what is controlled.
While Gen2 Module has a small relay but only to set up/down and MOSFETs to switch power. If you see a burned relay here, something else is wrong on that board. Example: Board has iffy solder etc and can't "see" motor amp draw right and fail to turn off a stalled motor frying Relay, MOSFET or whatever even the motor itself.
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⚠️ power to the module can be a problem. More so when wired is "on" 24/7 as Gen1 and Gen2 HL motors... GM and many others only allow ~ 35mA from a battery when parked. Is so hopefully can park for a week or more and still drive. OE ECM and Radio takes some of that. Even w/o having Gen2 HL, many have "Battery Tender" etc covered in https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/146657.html and more threads because can't/won't drive long enough and/or often enough to keep battery charge w/o it. Example: My Fiero or any car after mainly only use to go to local store etc. For most other driving have bigger vehicle to take people, dog(s) and more to where ever. While you can Deep Sleep most "Arduino" MCU types, many have USB and other "chips" that never sleep and sucks power.
Related: Newer "Cars" often use Bigger Wet or AGM batteries often because they often use a lot more "Standby Power" to keep PCM BCM and more happy for a week+ parked. Worse, Some models may have Under Size Alternator or have Stop/Start BS and use Battery power at stop lights, in slow traffic, etc. So don't compare power used to run or parked Fiero etc to most newer models. (Small Alt etc is for Business Reasons involving CAFE points and more rules/laws forced by US Govrmnts and Many others. GM et al just hope to buy the crap thinking they care.)
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 02-09-2023).]
You mention micro switches... Likely not to control power to motors direct but even "sealed inside" of Gen1 motors etc micro switches have a Very long history of problems. (Gen1 motors keep most crap out but generate dirt from bush wear etc.) Example: Is one of the biggest problems computer "mice" of any type is dust etc will get in them and fail to click no matter what position sensing used. I clean hundreds of all types when "dead" to have spares to keep people working in "Fortune 500" size businesses. Optical mouse only solve 1 part of ball mouse problems. Nearly all use cheap unsealed micro switches for buttons.
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Are you using Relays to switch power to the motors? If true... Data "printed" on relays and switches are for Resistive Loads. Buy from even best brands that also publish valid data sheets you find Inductive Loads like motors only accept < 1/3 to 1/2 amp rating @ giving volts for AC or maybe DC.
Omron and some others have good Data Sheets. Other cheap relays may have a "DS" but missing a lot of data or completely ignore inductive data and/or testing means has No Rating for this but many treat as 10 amps is 10 amps regardless of what is controlled.
While Gen2 Module has a small relay but only to set up/down and MOSFETs to switch power. If you see a burned relay here, something else is wrong on that board. Example: Board has iffy solder etc and can't "see" motor amp draw right and fail to turn off a stalled motor frying Relay, MOSFET or whatever even the motor itself.
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⚠️ power to the module can be a problem. More so when wired is "on" 24/7 as Gen1 and Gen2 HL motors... GM and many others only allow ~ 35mA from a battery when parked. Is so hopefully can park for a week or more and still drive. OE ECM and Radio takes some of that. Even w/o having Gen2 HL, many have "Battery Tender" etc covered in https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/146657.html and more threads because can't/won't drive long enough and/or often enough to keep battery charge w/o it. Example: My Fiero or any car after mainly only use to go to local store etc. For most other driving have bigger vehicle to take people, dog(s) and more to where ever. While you can Deep Sleep most "Arduino" MCU types, many have USB and other "chips" that never sleep and sucks power.
Related: Newer "Cars" often use Bigger Wet or AGM batteries often because they often use a lot more "Standby Power" to keep PCM BCM and more happy for a week+ parked. Worse, Some models may have Under Size Alternator or have Stop/Start BS and use Battery power at stop lights, in slow traffic, etc. So don't compare power used to run or parked Fiero etc to most newer models. (Small Alt etc is for Business Reasons involving CAFE points and more rules/laws forced by US Govrmnts and Many others. GM et al just hope to buy the crap thinking they care.)
Actually, my mention of micro switches is that there are none. The only thing electrical in the motor is the brushes and two wires exiting. The point of this design is there is no mechanical operation in the headlight except for the up-and-down movement of the motor and gearbox. Everything is handled entirely digitally. The main controller can detect up down and interrupt. The design does not use timers. Until I get through the class I can't say exactly how it works, but it is a novel approach. The actual detection apparatus is allegedly good for 1,000,000 continuous service hours. Again I can't say what it is.
The main power is however controlled through relays. But instead of mechanical relays, I am using Zietler optocouplers which have zero moving parts last 5-10x time longer than most mechanical relays and are far far more waterproof and humidity proof than mechanical relays. The relays I am using are rated to carry 40 amps at 240v.
My controller if left on draws 1.2 milliamps at idle so it doesn't have a lot of overhead. The trick is the way you power the Arduino. If you use the USB interface you waste a ton of power keeping the communication bus alive and other nonsense. The best method is to power the IC directly via Pin 7 and 8 using a voltage divider.
I would be more interested in a control unit that works with Gen II motors for $150 than a controller and modified brushes for Gen I motors for $200.
There definitely might be a possibility of this. But I would like to see the ability to use Gen1 housings. I highly doubt gen 2 motors are still in production. I know there available. But if everyone starts making the conversion to gen 2 motors now we have the same shortage we did with Gen 1 brush holders.
The option to just buy a gen 2 compatible controller will likely exist. But the ability to repair and reuse gen 1 housing will always remain a part of the initiative. (They made me have a green, ecofriendly component to this capstone project, so I have no choice lol)
Originally posted by Dukesterpro: The main power is however controlled through relays. But instead of mechanical relays, I am using Zietler optocouplers which have zero moving parts last 5-10x time longer than most mechanical relays and are far far more waterproof and humidity proof than mechanical relays. The relays I am using are rated to carry 40 amps at 240v.
Much better then others using small China mech Relays, Often used in "Arduino" developer/school kits, saying crap 10a relays are good with any motor under 10a. Not.
There definitely might be a possibility of this. But I would like to see the ability to use Gen1 housings. I highly doubt gen 2 motors are still in production. I know there available. But if everyone starts making the conversion to gen 2 motors now we have the same shortage we did with Gen 1 brush holders.
"Good news, Cardone AZ etc have New Gen2 Motors and with a lifetime warranty. They are a bit faster then OE but both are well under 1 sec to open or close. I've tested Cardone and opens in about ⅔ of a second."
Method of exercising a cat 
