I have searched around as much as I can, but I only find threads where the headlights blow a fuse.

My headlight relays (the two by the headlights) keep going bad. I will get a few months out of them and then they will stop working, one at a time.

Has anyone had this issue before? Am I buying poor quality relays or do i need to take apart the headlights to find a problem?

Thanks!

Hi, currently working on a headlight retrofit project. But I did a lot of testing on the OEM gen 1 headlights.

Killing the headlight relay is almost exclusively caused by too much current draw from the headlight motor. Time to crack them open and clean them out.

Thank you sir!!! That will be my next step. I thought about cleaning them out, but didn't want to waste time if I didn't have to.

BTW, I've followed along on your project and am very interested - thanks for helping out the community!

Willyt, are you buying BWD relays? Might be the reason. There is Sorensen that could or could not be made at the same place as BWD. Then there's Standard that's usually Mexico or Canada. O'Riellys carries the Standard Ignition relay Part #: RY130 Line: STD

I am using the Standard Ignition relays, but it is good to know that I'm using the good ones.

They're slightly pricey at $25 a pop to just be replacing a few times a year. I'll have to open 'er up and start cleaning.

Many car relays are 20a Resistive load, ~ 10a for motors.
HL Motors draw ~ 4a normally and well under the limits.
If you burn the relays repeatedly, Dirt likely isn't your problem.

Motor winding on the armature and more very likely has burn damage too and may not be easy to see for nubes.

While many know about Gen1 Motor "twitch" when Off killing the battery...
Can have same problem when doors are Up but won't be obvious because won't kill the battery. Will Still cook the HL motors.

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quote Originally posted by theogre: Many car relays are 20a Resistive load, ~ 10a for motors. HL Motors draw ~ 4a normally and well under the limits. If you burn the relays repeatedly, Dirt likely isn't your problem. Motor winding on the armature and more very likely has burn damage too and may not be easy to see for nubes. While many know about Gen1 Motor "twitch" when Off killing the battery... Can have same problem when doors are Up but won't be obvious because won't kill the battery. Will Still cook the HL motors.

Good Point. Still wouldnt hurt to open the motors up and snap a picture of the commutators for use to see.

quote Originally posted by Dukesterpro: Good Point. Still wouldnt hurt to open the motors up and snap a picture of the commutators for use to see.

If you do, while the limiter switch cover is off remove the limiter switch and use a piece of fine emery cloth pressed against the commutator as you spin the motor with your hand. That will polish the built up carbon and lubricant residue from the commutator surface. Just be very careful when removing and installing the switch. The brushes can easily be broken off.