Put the perfectly running 2.8 motor from my kitcar into my 88. Runs good sometimes, runs really bad other times. Went and bought a fuel pressure tester, holding 41lbs key on and about 35lbs running. Only runs for a few seconds by itself, will keep running if im on the gas. Had a code 42, went thru it, now I have a code 34. Manual needs the car running for that test. I think its something else. Module and wiring is good, tried a new coil- no dice. About to break out the parts cannon and throw some new wires n plugs in. Trying to keep the check wallet light off..
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
I did, no change just tach not working. Feels like a few cylinders are not firing. Burned thru a ton of posts on code 42, the service manual, and your page. My cuz even came over and pulled the rear 3 wires w the motor running, no change on any cylinder one by one. Ill get some plugs n wires tomorrow. Circuit 423 is under 500ohms and jumps to 10k when circuit 424 is powered w a test light, so icm is good. Both wires are good no breaks(mutilated the harness opening it up lol), so im outta ideas. This morning I made a ground wire w connectors to prive a ground from the coil, icm, and tach filter ground to the spot where the negative battery cable connects hoping it was a weak ground issue, no diearoonie. Appreciate the help!
There are 2 icms and an accel coil that came w the car, tried those, runs exactly the same.
shem
[This message has been edited by shemdogg (edited 05-06-2023).]
Did you check both injector fuses? When one blows (usually the one on the same circuit as the EGR solenoid, I believe), the engine can still sort of run.
Did you check both injector fuses? When one blows (usually the one on the same circuit as the EGR solenoid, I believe), the engine can still sort of run.
Wrapped up the paint job so im back at this. Tested damn near everything, and everythings working!
Injectors- fuel pressure goes down when I manually ground them w the ignition on Fuel pump- 41lbson 35lbs running Ecm- cel works now(bad bulb), aldl fuel pump pin shows power when key on, and power when cranking w oil pressure sensor unplugged. Ckt c15, d14-16 all pulsing when cranking at ecm Icm- tested good, have 3 to try all same Coil- have 2, 1 is new, runs the same Pickup coil- checked out and passed wire wiggle test Pull injector fuses and run motor, motor runs worse so injectors are working
Had my stepson crank the motor while i fired starting fluid and manned the tb, it kept running so its a fuel issue. The tank in the car was empty, no gas came out when I started the fuel pump. I added 1/2 a gallon and pumped it all out thru the fuel filter. Put on a new filter and ran it, then connected to the motor. Maybe a cupla injectors are clogged or partially clogged? Could anything of size make it thru the fuel filter?
Thanks Patrick. Ill have to pull the upper intake to check em, theyre wired together in threes. Both batches clicked when tested. Motor wont run long enough to test w stethoscope. Ill play w it smore after work today
Went by my mechanic to check on the heads, told him of the trubbles I was having. He said dont bring it here lol. I finally figured it out, noticed a very slight change in running w the map unplugged this morning. Got a new one and it didnt fit the connector. Then I noticed it was used. Then I had the bright idea for chits n giggles to throw the 88 computer back on and see if that made any diff. I was using the 88 harness which required the 88 map, and it was an easy enuf experiment. Installed it, runs like a champ even w the turbo prom. Little miss but the car hasnt been driven so hopefully that goes away w a long trouble free cruise. Idled around 1500 for about 10 mins, then dropped to a hunting idle of 1k-900rpms. Again thanks for all the replies!
If you wanna clean your injectors, you can pull them out and hose clamp a couple feet of vinyl clear tubing onto them one at a time, and hose clamp a compressor fitting at the other end of the tubing. Then fill the tube with carb and choke cleaner, hook it up to a compressor regulated down to like 50psi, then apply power in short intervals to the pins on the injector and it will spray the cleaning fluid through them and you will quickly see them return to their original spray pattern. Done this many times with great success on different cars. I use the clear tubing because you can see how full of cleaning fluid it is. It’s like $5 of parts from home depot.
[This message has been edited by zkhennings (edited 05-17-2023).]
Thats pretty damn cool, never heard of that before. Pretty sure the injectors are original to the motor. Im on the hunt for a stock 88 ecm to see if that clears up the idle, could just need to drive it lol. Gonna swap it out soon anyways, this setup will just be fer emissions testing
I feel ya but it is a nice to know trick for any motor, anytime I pull my wrx motor out (maybe every 50K miles lol Subaru life) I give the injectors a cleaning, it is a 15 min job once you have a setup made, and you'd be shocked how fast the spray pattern starts degrading. Good way to clean your L67 injectors before swapping that in, makes it run crispy.
