Hey guys, trying to get everything I need for when I start re-installing the exhaust in my daughter's car. Just wanted to ask the question... if I wanted to coat the exhaust manifold and header pipe... at least to get them to the point where they won't rust and will look decent when you open the engine bay... what should I use?
I've had a ceramic coated exhaust Y-Pipe before and it worked out pretty well... lasted over a decade without any cracking or peeling. But I bought it like that from the Fiero store. This is going on my daughter's 4 cyl, and would like to do something similar. Which do you recommend, and is it better for me to just take these parts to a local shop that does these things? What specifically should I be doing... ceramic coating, or powder-coating?
For the rest of the exhaust, I'm going to keep the factory aluminized exhaust (it's in pretty good shape). I thought I might sand it down a little bit, and then hit it with some hi-temp exhaust paint. Would that work? Or is that like painting over cracks in drywall?
What is the main goal...rust...heat....looks...? If just for rust purposes, I would just use a high temp paint. Coating would be better, but it is also way more expensive, and I am not sure if it would be worth it on a 4 cyl.
What is the main goal...rust...heat....looks...? If just for rust purposes, I would just use a high temp paint. Coating would be better, but it is also way more expensive, and I am not sure if it would be worth it on a 4 cyl.
Thanks Spades... I'm restoring a Fiero with my daughter... my guess is she will probably keep this car for a long time, and then when she goes off to college, will probably park it here. Money isn't really the concern unless we're talking INSANE money.
Goal is in this order:
1 - Reduce heat 2 - Prevent rust 3 - Look good
When you say coating, which one? Powdercoating, or ceramic coating? Or is that the same?
I believe the stock exhaust is ferritic stainless steel (rusts, but not too badly).
If the car has aluminized mild steel, then that is not the factory exhaust.
I would consider making a 304 stainless exhaust by cutting and welding mandrel bends. Since 304 can be left bare, there is no coating to peel or flake.
Due to the thin metal of exhaust pipes, this is not a good beginner project. However, since the current exhaust is in decent shape, there is no rush to complete the project.
I think that a replacement exhaust project might be good to do, but later, when/if your (collective) fabrication skills improve.
Does your daughter want to get into cutting/welding metal?
Yes, OEM exhaust is "low grade" SS that rust some.
You Can't use Powder Paint. Is PLASTIC powder then melded on whatever at 200-500°F but exhaust parts reach 700+°F easily. O2 sensor Doesn't run until sees ~ 600° to start. It will melt the plastic and likely cause big problems or a fire.
Coating Cost by pros like Jet-hot. Consumers can't buy same stuff and often done wrong so coating results are often very poor.
Just get Hi Temp Paint. If/when need to replace Exhaust Manifold not going to eat money to Jet-hot etc.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
82-T/A; I bet your exhaust is already stainless as that would have been what came on the car. may need some buffing from wear and tear. Mine looked rusty from baked on dirt and grime but is now on my neighbors fiero. sleek
82-T/A [At Work] - "Which do you recommend, and is it better for me to just take these parts to a local shop that does these things?"
To me, YES. (and 'local' means 'no shipping')
quote
82-T/A [At Work]: Goal is in this order: 1 - Reduce heat
Only ceramic coatings (or DIY wraps) will REDUCE HEAT in the engine bay, but coating by the pros isn't 'cheap' and are known to last longer than powder coats or hi-temp paints. As I said, if you have the money, this is the best option with all of your 'goals'.
When talking about exhaust powder coats, we're talking the higher temperature formula, NOT the 'regular' powder coats. The higher temperature formula claims that they can last around five years and won't lower temps in the engine bay.
Of course, the economical route is hi-temp spray paints which you can DIY easily.
And even though I don't know for sure, that does not stop me from giving my opinion. So I am saying that the wrap is even more efficient at heat reduction than the ceramic coating.
FWIW, these manifolds were painted with VHT exhaust paint from Orielly's.
I applied it in March of 2019, following the instructions as closely as possible, and cured them in an oven. The truck has been driven tens of thousands of miles, literally across the country, it's been to Alaska, Key West, and almost everywhere in between, I also didn't have access to a sand blaster to get them really clean first, just wire brushes. all weather, rain, snow, sun, you name it. it's been on salted roads, and even spent the night at Bonneville once. it is worth mentioning though, it's a suburban with a TBI 350, Maybe if I'm lucky it makes 200 hp. your results may vary, but I'm pretty happy with mine.
here's a shot of some of the road trip miles it's been on. it's also served DD duty several times, it's ever faithful.
something else that's worth mentioning, "Engine Masters" on Motortrend attempted to prove the performance value of header wraps and coatings, they found ZERO HP gain in a dyno cell from any wrap or coating on the headers over the same header left bare. They did also mention that their test did not replicate real world conditions in a car, and that reductions in underhood temperatures could have an impact on performance and vehicle comfort. Their test was also on a N/A V8, not a turbo car, which I think could have a larger gain, mostly in boost response from retaining heat. Overall, I tend to agree with their findings, and believe the exhaust design is more important than the heat retention applied.
------------------ "I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."
I invited Lou Dias to trash me in my own thread, he refused. sorry. if he trashes your thread going after me. I tried.
Wrapping exhaust is proven to provide the best at reducing heat. Ceramic coating will reduce the heat some, but this will allow any header to live for long time preventing corrosion. High temp paint works but not as good as the previous two and it doesn't last as long as ceramic coating. Ideally you could ceramic coat and then also wrap them. I just watched an episode on Engine Master's and they did tests on all three of these options. It's worth taking a look at that.
edit: ericjon262 beat me to it about the episode. ha
[This message has been edited by Spadesluck (edited 06-08-2023).]
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: Any idea what you paid (Canadian) for that? Thank you!
Been awhile, IIRC is was around $100-200 - I seem to think it was closer to the $100 mark. I took it to a power coater that could do it. I would have to see if I still have the receipt for an exact cost.
Thank you guys! I really appreciate it! Sorry, I didn't realize there had been so many responses to this... so thank you everyone!
1 - Sounds like Ceramic is the way I want to go for my exhaust manifold, and the header pipe to the catalytic converter. I'll clean up the rest of the exhaust as Sleek says and hit it with some hi-temp paint.
2 - The rest of the exhaust might be the factory exhaust, I'll take a look later today. I made the assumption because all the hangers and springs are original... normally exhaust shops just weld in one of those rubber isolator brackets with the exhaust clamp on it. It COULD be an Ocelot... not sure. When I pull the motor I'll check it out.
3 - My welding skills are actually pretty decent... been doing it for over a decade, but not sure I'm going to tig-weld a perfect exhaust since it's only a 4-cyl... though I will probably do that instead of clamps when putting everything together.
Good news is that apparently Tampa has a huge prevalence of collector car / hobby shops... so I did a search the other day and there are a few down the street (about 20 minutes from here).
Jet-Hot all the way. It's a metallic/ceramic coating that they apply to both the inner and outer surfaces. Helps keep the heat inside the tubing. Worth every penny. I've used Jet Hot on a few cars exhaust systems and never been disappointed.
