New to the l67 platform but not to boosted applications. I have a l67 with a 5 speed manual that I put into my fiero. The build up was over the winter and such just getting around to starting it. When I go to start the car it just clicks and will not turn over. Bench tested the starter and it's good at least will kick out bendix and spin I do not know it's cranking power starter is old, battery is brand new solenoid working. The more concerning thing is when I try to turn the engine over by hand it won't turn freely. Even without the belts. Is this common? Should the plugs be removed ? Never had this issue before even with v8s wondering if there is some interference and the starter can't crank the engine but unsure since it all turned freely before the install of the trans, belts and plugs. Any help greatly appreciated !!
The l67s ive done had killer compression and were hard to turn w the plugs out by hand. Pull your plugs and try to turn the motor by hand, if its binding up now but didnt before you attached the trans, something in the trans is probably hitting. Unless its in gear and the starter and or batterys weak, you should see the car lurch a bit if it was. Fingers crossed for ya!
Depending on exactly how you "turn by hand" most engine will turn but how hard depend on leverage of "wrench."
Even Dukes are harder w/ "standard" size 1/2" drive ratchet handles. But double or more that and turn very easy by finger effort.
"Bench" test works but in the car won't even try to pull the solenoid is wiring or battery "dead." Full charge battery is 12.6-13v. "Dead" is just 12v or less.
GM and many other Starter Solenoid pulls ~ 30a because also pulls in the bendix and Iffy wiring, iffy/bad I-switch, and more can it hard to get that many amps. ("Ford type" remote solenoids uses less power but way more then most think vs other large relays in a car.)
That ignoring GM Steering columns, more so for Tilt or Tilt Telescope units, that often have problems just pushing/pulling the I-switch to start, aux or both positions.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
All plugs removed and a 4' piece of rigid conduit on the edge of the rachet it still won't move. Battery is new. Starter appears to be working solenoid tests out. I think there is an interface issue with the flywheel or trans. Only thing I can't understand is how. I even remember having to secure the flywheel putting the pressure plate bolts on so the engine didn't just turn over. Only other thing I can think of is the trans like if it was stuck in gear but the shifter goes in and out of each gear smoothly. Unless someone has some kinda test for something I'm missing looks like I'm looking at redropping the cradle 🤷🤷
You may have a binding starter. Did you try turning it over by hand with the starter removed? If it turns freely with the starter removed, then you found the problem. Also the 3800sc starter has a different part # than the non sc version. Perhaps a bit more amps. Parts store normally won't list both or have no clue. Decades ago GM starters used shimes to allow more clearance between starter gear & flywheel to prevent binding.
Spoon
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
Good thoughts guys but even with the starter out the motor doesn't turn. I feel like the pressure plate is hitting the bellhousing but it's really just a guess. I can't get the little inspection cover at the bottom of the bell off. I'll try and get a closer look tomorrow but it seems either way the trans at least has to come off which means dropping the cradle. I guess thinking positive I'll consider this first go around mock up 🤷😂 I do have another bellhousing if that is the case. Current is an izuzu 5speed. The spare is a Muncie 4 speed
Current is an izuzu 5speed. The spare is a Muncie 4 speed
If you are using the clutch for the 4spd Muncie then that is your problem, the 4 spd clutch assembly has a taller assembled height than the 5 spd Isuzu clutch and 4spd pressure plate does make contact inside the 5 spd Isuzu bell housing. You need to use a clutch for the transmission in use.
I'll take a look when I get there. The clutch is a McLeod and came w the trans. Are the bellhousings interchangeable? Would of much rather used the Muncie but couldn't find any parts for it like shifter cable brackets etc.
Different part numbers for the NA and SC motors but the NA one works fine, I run a NA starter on mine from my previous swap.
Indeed, and both will fit & work on the 2.8 with no issues. Ask me how I know.
Spoon
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
I had the same problem with an Isuzu and McLeod ~15 years ago. My attempts to make it turn left useful marks on the inside of the Isuzu bell housing. I was able to grind off material from the transmission and some from the clutch cage to get the combo to work.
I was able to grind off material from the transmission and some from the clutch cage to get the combo to work.
I'd think grinding metal from the clutch would create an unbalanced situation, even if not felt in the drivetrain. Similar to an out of balanced tire.
Spoon
------------------ "Kilgore Trout once wrote a short story which was a dialogue between two pieces of yeast. They were discussing the possible purposes of life as they ate sugar and suffocated in their own excrement. Because of their limited intelligence, they never came close to guessing that they were making champagne." - Kurt Vonnegut
I had the same problem with an Isuzu and McLeod ~15 years ago. My attempts to make it turn left useful marks on the inside of the Isuzu bell housing. I was able to grind off material from the transmission and some from the clutch cage to get the combo to work.
I seen a guy years ago where he got it to start and just let it self clearance LOL. it worked for him uh huh.
Got it out today and it was def. The pressure plate contacting the flywheel see attached. Spins over nice and easy now. My question is does anyone know the correct McLeod clutch for an izuzu 5 speed? Or is the 4 speed Muncie bellhousing interchangeable and have the proper clearance ??
I did not have grinding like that on my Isuzu plus McLeod. The clearancing I needed to do was around the circumference of the clutch cover. The bolt heads on my cover look different and did not contact the transmission. I still have that clutch in my shop (I blew up 2nd gear on my Isuzu years ago). My McLeod clutch cover is 1-3/4" tall and has a diameter of 11-3/8". The number stamped on the cover is 24573141. You can see in image where I grinded some material from the edge. I also ground some from where those edges touched the transmission.
Thanks for your help. My pressure plate also has an 11 3/8" diameter but has a 1 7/8" sprung height. No casting number. You can see in the picture where the contact points where
The flywheel needs to be machined down to 0.810-0.840", maybe yours is too thick. Clutch pics look like the same casting, ones probably much newer. You could thin out the flywheel to get the 1/8".
The flywheel needs to be machined down to 0.810-0.840", maybe yours is too thick. Clutch pics look like the same casting, ones probably much newer. You could thin out the flywheel to get the 1/8".
New clutch same problem. Bolt up the spec stage 3+ and as soon as the bellhousing bolts go in engine won't spin over again. I dunno what gives. Is this possible not a 5 speed izuzu trans ? Are the other fiero trans not compatible ? This was a running original 2.8l for the swap. I dunno what else I gotta do if there is some kind of bellhousing spacer I'm missing or something but this is rediculous. Back it off to the point it just has an 1/8" gap and the engine spins right over
