So I've been having front suspension problems after hitting and going over a pig sized raccoon months ago (slight vibe in the steering wheel at highway speeds). I know the inner tie rods have about an inch of play with the steering wheel locked when I wiggle the driver and passenger side tires when jacked up, along with seeing the bellow boots push upwards. Got new inners and outers coming from Rodney. However, today driving I REALLY need to over compensate when steering. Like the rear of the car wants to get ahead of me and drift. Death wiggle. Only after leaving the driveway a few hundred feet, I was going straight, but steering wheel turned way towards the left. Backed into a driveway to return home, I heard what sounded like metal hitting/falling onto the pavement. Went and made my quick 1mile errand while learning to drive this way and heard the same noise again of metal falling near by (my windows were down). Upon returning home and parking, I looked under the rear of the car and found this: Its an 18mm nut threaded on an Allen threaded rod. Maybe it doesn't go to my Fiero and I'm being paranoid. But... any idea where this might go?
------------------ Curtis
1987 Pontiac Fiero GT: <Drives like a Go-Kart, handles like a roller coaster>
DISCLAIMER: This is an AI generated response. It may produce inaccurate information about people, places, or facts. From your description, it sounds like a crucial piece of your suspension or steering might have come loose due to the impact with the raccoon. While it's hard to identify the exact origin of the 18mm nut and Allen threaded rod without visual cues, it might correspond to several crucial aspects of your Fiero's steering and suspension system.</p>
In the Fiero, 18mm nuts are commonly used in the suspension, and particularly in the connection points of the tie rods, control arms, or sway bar links. All of these parts are crucial for maintaining proper alignment and steering response. It's possible the nut and bolt you found were originally a part of these systems and were dislodged due to the impact.</p>
However, it's also possible the stray nut and bolt could belong to a flange joint or other part of the drivetrain or underbody components.</p>
I highly advise you to carry your Fiero to a local mechanic or Pontiac specialist to have a thorough inspection of your suspension and steering components, especially considering the play you observed with the tie rods and the oversteer issue you've been experiencing. It's crucial to address these problems promptly to prevent any additional damage to the car or potential safety issues while driving.</p>
Until then, refrain from driving the car to prevent any further damage.</p>Click to see AI response
18mm is a common nut for suspension parts - bushings and tie rods. The hex on the end isn't present in any of the OEM bushing bolts and would more likely be from aftermarket tie rod ends. Check the nuts on all the tie rod ends - Rear inners and front outers.
Start with the rear - there are tabs on the lower control arm that limit how far the wheel can turn in the event of a tie rod failure, and those tab will push the dust shield against the rotor and make a metal scraping sound.
Now that rear is jacked up, I see the rear passenger side wheel is loose at the tie rod mount. Looks like that nut goes to the back side of that location.
Damn, just replaced a failed alternator 3 weeks ago and never touched that area, other than pop the outer rod from the knuckle to remove/install alternator. Looks like I'm not going to be 'Driving Excitement' for a while.
Would too much front vibration cause that rear one to snap? When I had an all wheel alignment done after doing total suspension upgrade (2018, struts/shocks, 1” lower springs along with all poly, knuckles and control arms blasted and coated) I had the mechanics install all new tie rods front and back that I got from the Fiero store. Cheap metal? I'll admit there are some railroad tracks I go over pretty rough.
(Edited to add 2018 year suspension/alignment done)
[This message has been edited by WonderBoy (edited 09-04-2023).]
Is it possible that the "pig sized raccoon" was also hit by the rear of the car? Still... the car is at least 36 years old, by now. It's not too outrageous to believe that the rear toe link/tierod succumbed to metal fatigue, if it's still original. Especially if it sees a bunch of rough terrain. Regardless of whether the nut and washer came from there or not, if the wheel/knuckle is loose, that's at least part of your (new) problem, whatever else is causing it.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 09-04-2023).]
For information, nuts are designated by their thread size, not the wrench size.
Because of the stub with an Allen socket, it looks like the end of a MacPherson strut rod which was broken off.
If both your struts still have their nuts, this may be a piece that remained from a previous strut replacement job.
This is what I was thinking, too. But the fresh wear on the nut and washer indicates that it's a fresh separation and not something left over from previous work.
So most of my goodies have arrived from RD, I started removing the front inner/outer tie rods. Judging by the rusty muddy brown watery grease (ha! Doubt any grease was even there) in the boots, I decided to remove the entire rack to see how bad it was. Since I got a bushing and seal from RD on the way along with the rear tie rods, I had to take it out anyways. Took it apart and man, it was ugly. Got the parts mostly cleaned up with wire wheel, cleaned the inside of the rack housing like packing a musket using 20 shop paper towels soaked in degreaser till they came out clean. Lots of pitting on the rack shaft where there's no direct contact with anything and a bit in the gearing teeth.
Now, the bad? The roller bearing seems descent, haven't popped it out yet, but this one on the pinion has a lot of play. Normal? Is this welded on, and if so, has anyone tried to replace it? I've got TFF on standby if they've got another rack available.
Salvageable?
Also having a hell of a time getting the old bushing out.
Originally posted by WonderBoy: ...one on the pinion has a lot of play. Normal? Is this welded on, and if so, has anyone tried to replace it?
The roller bearing on the pinion is likely just press fit in place. Use a press and I will likely slide off. If not, then you will likely be cutting it off.
Yes, the nut above is for the Top of Strut w/ the Strut Broken. W/ GT pull the vent covering the top of strut since Lowered Cars often have Cut springs etc & may not have enough spring to make it obvious when jack the rear.
Also Very likely 1 or both strut "Top hat" has been wreck too. Is missing big washer(s) that sandwich the top hat bushing.
Lowered Cars often Break Suspension parts like another "person" near me broke lower front BJ crossing a speed bump & needed towing. He got lucky because side street w/ low traffic unlike a lot of other break or crash on a Highway caused by improper lowering.
Rear tie rod does Not have Hex Stud as shown. Those are 13-15mm standard or lock type nut. Ball Socket have extra metal stud to "lock" them to install/remove the nut holding the part.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
