1988 GT. My current "courtesy"/"chime" module aka "blue ringy-dingy" (BRD) has been celebrating events unknown to me with random chimes for some time. I thought I'd fixed it a few weeks ago by pulling it out, WD-40 on contacts, re-insert. Temporary. Read some in the Forum, including Ogre's remarks. Pulled BRD out again, removed circuit board, could only find one suspicious solder connection - looked like someone had added a bit of solder. So I reheated that one connection and replaced BRD. The free jazz chime music has returned.
I don't just want to leave it out because there are times I appreciate the reminders. Can't find a source for a replacement. Suggestions?
1988 GT. My current "courtesy"/"chime" module aka "blue ringy-dingy" (BRD) has been celebrating events unknown to me with random chimes for some time
Please use its proper name. It's called the "Blue Dingy Thingy". Or you can use its official icon:
😁
Anyways, it's not always the BDT's fault that it randomly starts dinging. Mine often does that too and it's never the BDT. When driving, it's usually the e-park cable. fiddling with the lever makes the dinging stop. When the car is parked and it dings, it's either the ignition switch, or the shift lever.
Cliff Pennock: I give great consideration to Lily Tomlin's "ringy-dingy" but your response seems most applicable in my case. AND, I reeeely appreciate the Forum!
rbell2915: I may take you up on that pick-and-pull offer. Let me look at Vintage-Nut's eBay link first. By the way, Semper Fidelis! 2122722, 1965-69, Vietnam May 67 - Jan 69.
Vintage-Nut: Looking right now. If cheap enough I might just buy it.
BTW: GM calls the Module an "Alarm" for the Chime / Warning Module
10037040 was the last rev. of the 'alarm' for Chevrolet and Pontiac cars. It fits 15 General Motors vehicles.
14062570 is an older rev. and was replaced with 10037040 10024379 is the oldest rev, and again, was replaced with 10037040
EDIT I also saw 10037041 which has one less electrical connector, I think it is the same part without the parking brake warning, but I may be wrong on this......
[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 10-10-2023).]
Several version of chime units. Only ones made for X are often only ones to install because some versions have different pins layout & 12v power or inputs maybe on a different pins & get magic smoke if used.
newer "fiero" unit has door on end. Old "gen1" is "square" has door opening on 1 big side. Both work same but later is likely made different & likely cheaper then old one.
quote
Originally posted by Cliff Pennock: Anyways, it's not always the BDT's fault that it randomly starts dinging. Mine often does that too and it's never the BDT. When driving, it's usually the e-park cable. fiddling with the lever makes the dinging stop. When the car is parked and it dings, it's either the ignition switch, or the shift lever.
Yes, can be the park lever w/ problems do that. & other inputs like key lock wire/"switch" for key in lock.
Even after I replacing the I-lock & have new key, the that barely works & most time don't work. If either "switches" is broken then can get grounded @ any time. In case of P-brake level, may not ground enough for Brake light in the dash to show but still chime.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Cliff Pennock: I give great consideration to Lily Tomlin's "ringy-dingy" but your response seems most applicable in my case. AND, I reeeely appreciate the Forum!
rbell2915: I may take you up on that pick-and-pull offer. Let me look at Vintage-Nut's eBay link first. By the way, Semper Fidelis! 2122722, 1965-69, Vietnam May 67 - Jan 69.
Vintage-Nut: Looking right now. If cheap enough I might just buy it.
There's another Marine Vietnam Vet who posts a lot on the T/OT forum on here, named Mary Jane.
82 - T/A [At Work] A Navy (Squid) guy tried to introduce me to Mary Jane in the back of his MARS [military-amateur radio station] teams truck. My response: "Are you nuts? I've got less than a year to go until separation from active duty!"
I doubt it was the same Mary Jane. The one on Monkey Mountain was loosely rolled, lit, and inhaled.
82 - T/A [At Work] A Navy (Squid) guy tried to introduce me to Mary Jane in the back of his MARS [military-amateur radio station] teams truck. My response: "Are you nuts? I've got less than a year to go until separation from active duty!"
I doubt it was the same Mary Jane. The one on Monkey Mountain was loosely rolled, lit, and inhaled.
Haha... no. I don't want to speak for him... but he was stationed at a Naval Air Base near the water. He showed me the Google Maps link to it, the base is basically still there (as a parking lot and abandoned air strip if I remember correctly), but it surrounded by hotels and resorts now.
Hi Guys, I also have a problem with the Blue Dingy Thingy. I have the old style 10024379. Mine works. NO RANDOM Chimes. My problem is that the volume is very very low. There is no corrosion on the terminals. Wiggling the box does not change volume.
The old one has Just 1 E-cap & if making sound then likely not the cap. This version is close to Patent numbers "stamped" on them w/ a lot more parts + 3 chips. (2 MC14001 Quad NOR + CD4011 Quad NAND) Others are Diodes, small Caps, Coils, 1 transistor & Disk thermistor to set Time On etc.
New version have change number of parts to make it cheaper & the Chip is now a custom Job. (Chip Logo is same as Logo on the "door.") This one has 3 E-caps & more transistor.
These parts are Not made by GM but Lectron & Patents owned by them. Other versions w/ Different Color Cases work the same but may have different pin outs so may not work in Fiero & others w/ Blue units.
Can search on Patent # or Lectron as name search. I had copies but can't find now & not digging @ USPTO or Other Patent Search. 4160132 4183278 4193060 4232287 & those just Patent # printed on them.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 10-12-2023).]
Was bored so dig up 4193060 that has most of old unit schematic... then added some notes to it. I said Most because old unit only has 1 transistor etc so that isn't fully copied but image Should give many how it works.
SB latch is sort of input. Line uses Resistance Pull Up then latch pulls the line to low/ground when SB is out of it.
PTC Disk has 4 "Pins" (exact order doesn't matter to most & I'm not looking at any actual unit to see.) 1 +12v In (on 1 side of disk.) 2 ground 3 SB Warning Light 4 Chime Stop when SB is not used.
2, 3, 4 on other side of that disk. (see 4232287 patent)
1-2 just heats up in X time to "kill" the other "pins" so SB light doesn't need other parts to work. Plus auto reset fast when I-key is off.
Again, New unit does same w/ the custom chip but not same "wiring" as shown here. But does use same Disk for the SB warning.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 10-12-2023).]
82 - T/A [At Work] Sounds like MCAS Santa Ana, CA or MCAS El Toro, CA - neither of which exist now. MCAS = Marine Corps Air Station.
Oh, I meant it was actually in Vietnam.
But I do think he was also stationed in California, but also at Naval Air Station Fort Lauderdale, which is now a community college, a private college, and a UF IFAS extension site.
He was also stationed in Guantanamo, and a few other places.
...never ever spray WD40 on anything electrical...in fact never spray WD40 on anything.
The electrical contact on the unit should be self cleaning when you insert/remove it. Only use contact cleaner approved for electronics if you must - however the best method is to just use and eraser.
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose: ...never ever spray WD40 on anything electrical...in fact never spray WD40 on anything.
The electrical contact on the unit should be self cleaning when you insert/remove it. Only use contact cleaner approved for electronics if you must - however the best method is to just use and eraser.
WD40 & others are often bad for this job because most attack plastic & other problems.
Erasers & related may clean but leave nothing to protect the joint. Can remove thin coat of "tin" "gold" etc too making more issues... You often need electrical cleaner/protector/lube & plastic safe from CRC Etc. or coat w/ silicone or brake grease or "bulb" grease... Or crap in the car & water in air will find "bare metal" & quickly have problems again.
GM & others use Bulb grease for Decades is basically some form of Cosmoline that never fully dries or runs until way hot then other things have big problems too.
BTW: GM calls the Module an "Alarm" for the Chime / Warning Module
10037040 was the last rev. of the 'alarm' for Chevrolet and Pontiac cars. It fits 15 General Motors vehicles.
14062570 is an older rev. and was replaced with 10037040 10024379 is the oldest rev, and again, was replaced with 10037040
EDIT I also saw 10037041 which has one less electrical connector, I think it is the same part without the parking brake warning, but I may be wrong on this......
I also see several # 14062570 for sale on flea bay and all have 7 connectors rather than 8. Was 14062570 really used in the Fiero? If so, I may try my luck with one of these since they are significantly less than the one 10037040 currently for sale.
Originally posted by edfiero 14062570 for sale on flea bay and all have 7 connectors rather than 8. Was 14062570 really used in the Fiero?
quote
Vintage-Nut: I think it is the same part without the parking brake warning, but I may be wrong on this......
And I don't know if 14062570 was used in the Fiero.....?
Fiero Chimes Are: Seat Belt, Key in Ignition Switch when the door is open, Head-Parking Lights when the ignition is 'off' and the Parking Brake.
Obviously, 14062570 was replaced with 10037040 so both are fully compatible with each other with one less electrical connector or 'chime' on the 14062570.
On eBay; GM 14062570 is offered for Corvette which has the same parking brake location as the Fiero.
But again, I believe the difference is the missing input for the parking brake chime/warning, and I may be wrong on this.....
Erasers & related may clean but leave nothing to protect the joint. Can remove thin coat of "tin" "gold" etc too making more issues...
Completely disagree with this. ^^^
The whole process of plugging and unplugging the board from it's mating pins will do far more damage to the edge connector than an erase will. These types of connectors are self cleaning and will cut through the surface far faster than an eraser will. There is nothing protecting the contact surface in the first place, hence the reason the surface oxidizes (turns color). However, if it is gold, there is no need to "clean" it since gold does not oxidize.
There is no way that you can remove enough material to cause an issue with an eraser unless you are doing this nonstop for a few years (maybe easier using one of those "ink" erasers). The coating is at least 100 microns thick (or more) on the edge connector and I doubt the eraser removes more than a 100 nanometers of film thickness. That being said, when I have some free time at work, I will test this since I work in a research nanofab and we have equipment that can easily measure a change in thickness on the order of a few Angstroms (which is a 1/10 of a nanometer). I will measure the thickness before and after the eraser treatment.
Generally if you are having a connection problem with something that uses an edge connector (like this does), it is:
1) the mating pin has lost it's ability to grab the edge connector tightly.
OR
2) the board has been removed and plugging in so many time that the connector wore through the material on the edge connector.
Both can be fixed - replace the pins in the connector or repair the edge board using a solder and wipe while hot method.
[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 10-19-2023).]
Some moisture problems I and friends of mine have had in the past responded well to Water Displacement - 40. From my current truck's radio to a carpool member's Nissan ignition wiring.
Also, it's absolutely great for killing wood bees (carpenter beetles). Use the red extension to squirt down their holes, dry off the excess, caulk.
Some moisture problems I and friends of mine have had in the past responded well to Water Displacement - 40. From my current truck's radio to a carpool member's Nissan ignition wiring.
Also, it's absolutely great for killing wood bees (carpenter beetles). Use the red extension to squirt down their holes, dry off the excess, caulk.
Happy face!
John T
WD-40 leaves a film on the surface and can cause arcing/etc (never mind are a magnet for more dirt and dust). The only cleaner you should use is a contact cleaner - and - I personally don't even use those. There is no need to use anything other than a pencil eraser on edge board connectors. If water is an issue, IPA to clean/remove water and then apply a dielectric grease as Ogre said.
If the circuit board is filthy, which would not be the case here, dish soap (preferably Dawn - but I mainly used Simply Green) and water can clean those up (providing no power is present on the boards). I have worked on some circuit boards where they were so caked of crap you could not even see the individual components and you had to wash them so you could work on them - don't miss those days.
In my 40 years in the industry I have seen so many problems caused by WD40 and other such solutions that leave behind an oily film on electronics (your average consumer is bad for this). But hey, each to their own...
