Two months ago, I brought this new clutch pedal from TFS, installed it as recommended, tested it and the pedal worked good. Well, This morning as I was driving my Fiero, the clutch pedal was starting to stick to the floor. I was thinking either master, slave, hydraulic fluid or transmission fork beginning issues. But when I got home, I check the master, banjo and all mentioned above and seemed fine. However as I was testing the clutch pedal, a unusual low grinding sound was coming from the top part of the clutch pedal area, but couldn’t see that part due to the location. After removing the pedal, this is what I found seen in the photos below. I compared the old clutch pedal and they appear to be proportionate all around and no signs of rubbing on that part of the old clutch pedal.
Has anyone having or had this happen to them? I am open to hear your thoughts, similar experience or advice. I just want to get this car driving again. Thanks!
[This message has been edited by Fieros4evr (edited 10-20-2023).]
Hello Patrick & Jake_Dragon. Yes. There were two nylon bushings and a small metal cylinder that fits inside the top portion of the clutch pedal in between the bushings. As I took the clutch pedal out today, the bushings and cylinder were removed from the pedal to inspect which is why they are not on the pedal in the photos. They all seem to be in good condition. Rest assured, those will be applied back to the clutch pedal upon reinstall.
[This message has been edited by Fieros4evr (edited 10-20-2023).]
Two months ago, I brought this new clutch pedal from TFS, installed it as recommended, tested it and the pedal worked good. Well, This morning as I was driving my Fiero, the clutch pedal was starting to stick to the floor. I was thinking either master, slave, hydraulic fluid or transmission fork beginning issues. But when I got home, I check the master, banjo and all mentioned above and seemed fine. However as I was testing the clutch pedal, a unusual low grinding sound was coming from the top part of the clutch pedal area, but couldn’t see that part due to the location. After removing the pedal, this is what I found seen in the photos below. I compared the old clutch pedal and they appear to be proportionate all around and no signs of rubbing on that part of the old clutch pedal.
Has anyone having or had this happen to them? I am open to hear your thoughts, similar experience or advice. I just want to get this car driving again. Thanks!
Any chance you can take a picture of this installed so I can see what the clearance looks like?
This is the only picture I have from when I re-built my pedal assembly...
Best I can figure is that the little triangular tab/bracket might be bent and is interfering with it... I'd check to make sure it looked like this one...
It looks as if a replacement of that assembly is needed for my car. I ended filing that part of the clutch pedal and installed the pedal. But now, the grinding is gone, but still the clutch pedal sticks toward the back floor before the banjo is applied. There are no springs anywhere connected to the clutch pedal on mine. Do you have an image of a pedal fork with a spring connected or the specific location where it is placed? Thanks for all your messages.
[This message has been edited by Fieros4evr (edited 10-20-2023).]
To answer your question, I was testing the clutch pedal after reinstalling it. Before connecting the banjo. I was testing the pedal to make sure it was moving properly. As I was pushing the pedal back to the foot area floorboard, The pedal stopped at the back by the floorboard and did not swing back forward freely. Your thoughts Patrick?
[This message has been edited by Fieros4evr (edited 10-21-2023).]
Looking at your first picture to me it looks like the U portion of your pedal is twisted compared to where your pivot bushings go. if it is maybe that is where the binding originates.
I was testing the clutch pedal after reinstalling it. Before connecting the banjo. I was testing the pedal to make sure it was moving properly. As I was pushing the pedal back to the foot area floorboard, The pedal stopped at the back by the floorboard and did not swing back forward freely.
So if I now understand you... without the banjo connected, the clutch pedal is binding when it's close to the floorboards. Did you apply any lubricant to the bushing prior to installation? All I can suggest, is that you compare the new pedal to the old pedal to see if there's any difference in the shape/machining of the bushing mount area. Maybe reinstall the old pedal to see if it moves freely, just to rule out that you are installing the pedal somehow incorrectly.
Of course, as I stated to you in your previous thread, I feel you should've sent that new (incorrect) pedal back to TFS and used your old one.
Thank you all for your helpful information. Hearing all the comments posted has made me come to a conclusion that the old original pedal will be my focus to use again. I need to order from RD a second adjustable banjo with the smaller loop. I will keep you updated. Have a good one all.
I wanted to ask all of you what type of lubricant are you using on mechanisms such as this? I have been using WD40. Hearing the question on here about lubricant is something I should look into. Maybe I am using the wrong application on these parts.What are your recommendations? Thanks!
There are other products that are probably fine, but GM originally recommended the use of Lubriplate lubricant. (Maybe someone can suggest exactly what type.)
CLUTCH LINKAGE SYSTEM SQUEAKS (REPAIRS DESCRIBED) #87-7-55 - (10/10/1988) 1984-87 FIERO MODELS WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION "This bulletin is being revised to supersede Bulletins 86-7-13, 86-7-24, 86-7-34, 87-7-49 and 87-7-54. Please destroy all copies of these previously issued bulletins. "
CLUTCH WEAR:
Owners of some 1984-87 Fieros equipped with manual transmissions may comment of clutch slippage, separation of facing from the driven disc, gear clash, excessive shift effort, or excessive clutch pedal effort. Prior to replacing a clutch assembly in any of these vehicles, use all four (4) of the following cause and action statements to locate and repair the reasons for the clutch wear.
Reference Figure #1.
1. Cause: Clutch release difficult, due to excessive clutch pedal deflection and/or bent clutch pedal "standoff" bracket.
Action: Using the procedure below, install the following new components and discard the clutch pedal return spring, spring bushing, and push rod pin washers which are not used with the replacement system.
PART DESCRIPTION PART NUMBER --- Steel Clutch Pedal (1984-86 ONLY) 10066423 Master Cylinder Push Rod (1984-85 ONLY) 10126424 Master Cylinder Push Rod (1986 ONLY) 10126423 Retainer Clip 10040797 Lubriplate or equivalent 1052196 Castrol Fluid 12345347
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Procedure:
A. Remove clutch master cylinder push rod from clutch pedal. B. Remove neutral start switch. C. Remove the rubber bumper (sleeve) from the clutch pedal return stop and discard. D. Remove nut from pedal pivot bolt. E. Slide pivot bolt half way out, loosen two (2) pivot bracket bolts, and remove clutch pedal. F. Disconnect hydraulic line from master cylinder. G. Remove master cylinder mounting bolts and remove master cylinder from front of dash. H. Remove the boot, snap ring and push rod from the master cylinder. I. Install the new push rod and snap ring in the master cylinder (lubricate the installed end of the push rod) . Reattach the boot to the master cylinder. J. Bench bleed the master cylinder, using Castrol Fluid as replacement fluid. K. Reinstall the master cylinder to front of dash and reattach hydraulic line. L. Install new pedal assembly and apply liberal amount of Lubriplate lubricant to inner and outer diameters of pedal bushings and spacer. M. Torque pivot bolt nut, and also torque pivot bracket bolts. N. Apply Lubriplate lubricant to the bushing in master cylinder push rod, and on pedal push rod pin. O. Attach push rod to pedal and secure with retainer clip, per Figure 1. DO NOT USE ANY WASHERS. P. Bleed the system using Castrol fluid as replacement fluid. Power bleeding is acceptable. Q. Install neutral start switch. -NOTICE: NEUTRAL START SWITCH WILL SELF-ADJUST ON INITIAL DEPRESSION OF CLUTCH PEDAL (RATCHETING NOISE IS NORMAL). R. Adjust cruise control dump switch per section 9B-8 of the 1988 Fiero Service Manual.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation: T1358 Labor Time : 1.3 Hours
2. Cause: Clutch release difficult, due to clutch fork lever cracking or excessive deflection.
Action: Install new cast iron clutch fork lever in place of the stamped steel lever. Use the following part numbers:
APPLICATION PART NUMBER --- 1984 4 cyl., 4-speed 10054118 1985-86 6 cyl., 4-speed 10054119 1985-86 4 cyl., 5-speed 10054300
Warranty Information
Labor Operation: K0280 Labor Time : Use appropriate labor time for model year.
3. Cause: Partial clutch disengagement due to interference between the pedal and pedal return stop and/or misadjusted cruise control dump switch. The interference restricts the pedal from returning to its fully engaged position, which retains pressure in the hydraulic system.
NOTICE: THE PEDAL RETURN STOP CONDITION WAS CORRECTED IN PRODUCTION (ON VEHICLES BUILT AFTER VIN GP220697) BY REMOVING THE RUBBER BUMPER (SLEEVE) FROM THE PEDAL SUPPORT ASSEMBLY.
Action: Same as #1.
4. Cause: Insufficient clutch release, due to air in hydraulic system lines.
Action: Bleed hydraulic system, per Section 7C of the Fiero Service Manual. Power bleeding is also acceptable. Use Castrol Fluid as replacement fluid.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation: K0040 Labor Time : .5 Hours
IMPORTANT: When replacing the clutch assembly, inspect the clutch fork shaft for freedom of movement. If there is any restriction in movement, replace the fork shaft bushings per Section 7C of the Fiero Service Manual.
CLUTCH NOISE:
Owners of some 1984-86 Fieros equipped with manual transmissions may comment of a squeaking noise while depressing or releasing the clutch pedal. The squeaking noise may be coming from one or more of the following locations. Use the following cause and action statements to locate and fix the noise condition:
Reference Figure #1.
1. Cause: Pedal pivot noise due to (1) insufficient lube; (2) deflection, resulting in uneven loading on the pivot bushings, or (3) pedal return spring noise.
Action: Same as #1 of CLUTCH WEAR Section.
NOTICE: SPRAYING OR SQUIRTING LUBRICANT TO THESE AREAS (WITHOUT PERFORMING THE ABOVE ACTION) WILL ONLY TEMPORARILY ELIMINATE THE NOISE.
2. Cause: Push rod pin pivoting noise due to misalignment between the master cylinder and pedal (pedal deflection and/or bent clutch pedal "standoff" bracket), or incorrect attachment of the push rod to the pedal pin.
Action: Same as #1 of CLUTCH WEAR Section.
3. Cause: Master cylinder noise due to (1) internal seal friction on bore, (2) contact between master cylinder boot and push rod, or (3) misalignment between the master cylinder and pedal, due to excessive clutch pedal deflection and/or bent clutch pedal "standoff" bracket.
Action: Same as #1 of CLUTCH WEAR section, as well as:
A. Install a new master cylinder assembly, P/N 10079730 in place of the removed assembly. New pushrod will be included with the new master cylinder. B. Evacuate the entire hydraulic system (master/slave cylinders and pipe) of the old fluid. To evacuate the pipe assembly, disconnect it from the master and slave cylinders, and use air pressure to blow the fluid out. C. Refill the system with Castrol fluid and bleed.
Owners of some 1987 Fieros equipped with manual transmissions may also comment of a squeaking noise. Use the following cause and action statements to locate and fix the noise condition.
1. Cause: Pedal pivot noise due to insufficient lube.
Action: Remove the clutch pedal and lubricate the inner and outer diameters of the clutch pedal pivot bushings and spacer with Lubriplate lubricant. Reinstall the clutch pedal.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation: K0060 Labor Time : Use appropriate labor time for model year.
2. Cause: Master cylinder noise due to internal seal friction on bore.
Action: Install a new hydraulic clutch master cylinder, P/N 10079730; and evacuate, refill, and bleed the hydraulic system per the following procedure.
A. Disconnect the master cylinder push rod from the pedal and the hydraulic pipe from the master cylinder. B. Remove the master cylinder from the front of dash. C. Detach the hydraulic pipe from the slave cylinder and blow the fluid out of the pipe. Open the slave cylinder bleed screw and use the piston to evacuate any fluid. D. Bench bleed the master cylinder (using Castrol fluid) and install it to the front of dash. Attach the push rod to the pedal pin using the retainer clip. E. Reattach the pipe to the master and slave cylinders. F. Refill and bleed the system using Castrol fluid. Power bleeding is acceptable.
Warrant Information
Labor Operation : K0600 Labor Time : Use appropriate labor time for model year. Add : .3 Hours (for evacuation)
3. Cause: Push rod pivoting noise due to insufficient lube at the pedal push rod pivot pin.
Action: Remove retainer clip and push rod from pedal pin and lubricate the pedal pin and push rod bushing with Lubriplate lubricant. Reattach the push rod to the pedal.
Figure 1
General Motors bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, not a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform those technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, do not assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See a General Motors dealer servicing your brand of General Motors vehicle for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
