Yes I've gone through the search feature. I'm looking for the difinitive answer on retracting the pistons. Is the following correct? (1) with e-brake cable disconnected the pistons are just pushed / c- clamped in and (2) with the e-brake cable left connected the piston must be rotated back in with the drivers side being counter clockwise.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Well the rear brake job went south in a hurry. Calipers are trash. Pistons are frozen, one all the way in, one all the way out. Tried to loosen the bleeder, yep snapped one off. I was successful in breaking loose one of the brake hoses at the caliper but I called it a day before trying the other side. Tracked down a new set of calipers and ordered new hoses just in case they are needed. Wife is not happy as the FIERO is up on jackstands dead center of the garage and her prized low milage CRV is out in the cold. Looks like it will be outside for a week or so.
Update and help still needed. New calipers arrived. Two day shipping only took 6 1/2 days but thats another fight. Attempted to install drivers side (rear). I am unable to get the piston back in enough for the pad to clear the rotor. I've measured all components and all parts are correct. Caliper is on the bench, bleeder is out but the piston just won't push back it bottoms out as shown in the pictures. Am I missing something?
Yes e-brake arm is off.
[This message has been edited by steve308 (edited 11-14-2023).]
Caliper is brand new. In the past and as per the Ogre's reminder I''ve always just pushed the piston in. Haven't tried a 'gentle twist' because I don't want to risk causing damage and make the calipers un-returnable. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll attack it again in the morning.
if you can't get the piston to seat all the way and are afraid of breaking them, you could return them and look into getting 80s Grand Am brakes. Makes the pedal feel a bit better and they're WAY cheaper but you lose the ebrake. Doesn't matter if you have an auto or don't mind leaving it in gear.
You tried what Ogre said ? Lever off and gentle push with clamp? If nothing, then there's something blocked in the piston. I've rebuilt these things many times, even though most people say it can't be done! The inner part (with thread for the lever spindle) is not seating at the bottom of the piston. You need to disassemble and check; or you just need to send the whole think back under garantee, if you don't have the time/skills to open one up.
Personnaly, I would try turning the piston in with the lever in place. It might free up the stuck part on the threads? And get the piston to go fully in. You need to push and turn at the same time. If it just stops at the same place as in your photo, then it's rebuild or send back time. 😉
------------------ "Turbo Slug" - '87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. - The fastest Fiero in France! @turboslugfiero https://youtu.be/hUzOAeyWLfM
I also replied on your Facebook post, but it's worth repeating here, also.
Assuming all new parts - calipers, rotors, pads - it's possible that your piston is actually in all of the way, but that the pads are too thick.
I experienced this firsthand when I first started this hobby. I couldn't understand what I was doing wrong.
turns out...I wasn't. Some pads are simply just a tiny bit thicker than others. Not a problem on rotors with wear, but on a brand new rotor it will not work.
If you search my profile I've posted which pads I've used in the past. I can't remember off the top of my head.
If you can't get < 5mm 3/16" follow cave directions then something is block the piston.
Very Likely Turning the piston will not help or if does may hide whatever causing this & happen again w/o warning.
"Best" is return w/o taking apart or do other damage that voids the warranty or return policy.
"rebuilding" a new unit w/ this type problem is likely going to have more problems as the Piston is likely bad etc & you don't have new parts to fix.
quote
Originally posted by Additivewalnut: if you can't get the piston to seat all the way and are afraid of breaking them, you could return them and look into getting 80s Grand Am brakes. Makes the pedal feel a bit better and they're WAY cheaper but you lose the ebrake. Doesn't matter if you have an auto or don't mind leaving it in gear.
Dangerous to start & if or more like When you wreck Illegal "upgrades"/"fixes," the I-co can Void the policy & have worse problems if other people are involved.
[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 11-15-2023).]
With the lever removed from the back side turn the treaded jackshaft so that it sinks into the back of the caliper some, then press the piston in, rinse and repeat until the piston bottoms. then reinstall the lever. Being a rebuild caliper it is most likely dry inside and that's a pretty hefty O-Ring on that jackshaft and will hold a lot of friction without some lubricant.
And No, your brake pads are not too thick.
[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 11-16-2023).]
White flag waived. Two local repair shops couldn't get the piston to retrack enough to allow for rotor clearance. I went midieval on it just out of spite. Still beat my best efforts to destroy it. Up on rollers until I find a caliper that works.
Forcing the piston is not the answer! Since you won't be returning the unit, now is the time to dissassemble carefully and start to understand how these things work😉 Use red rubber grease or industry/food grade silicone grease when reassembling. You can do it!👌
------------------ "Turbo Slug" - '87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. - The fastest Fiero in France! @turboslugfiero https://youtu.be/hUzOAeyWLfM
Update. The second caliper arrived and my local repair shop was able to compress the piston. I turned on the heat in the garage and hope to get the drivers side working tomorrow. I'll pay the repair shop to hang the passanger side caliper and service the brake fluid.
Looks like it will be outside for a week or so.
