I did a Forum search for new alternators and found some great information, but it looks a few years old. I am wondering if anyone has any current advise for a new alternator for 88 GT V-6 5-Speed?
If your alternator is dead, try to find a rebuilder (frequently called "auto electric") near you. When I had mine rebuilt, he asked if my car was a "keeper" or a "flipper". His replacement parts were/are priced according to quality. And yeah... your stock alternator is a "CS130".
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 11-13-2023).]
I bought the new Remy from Rock AUto, when I took the old one out I was surprised to see the pulley was one rib larger and since the Remy also has the larger pulley I can't swap them. But since the larger pulley has worked for 35 years I just put in the Remy with the larger pulley. I'm really living dangerously, the belt looked fine so I haven't bothered putting in the new belt either.
As for the 88V6, this was the only year with the fan blade style compared to the 85-87V6 disc fan.
Realistically, I bought a new AC Delco alternator from RockAuto, and I would always suggest to swap the alt pulley if its a different diameter. It can happen, but in my case it was the same. I swapped it anyways.
You need an impact to take it off, and re-install. Just hold the pulley with gloves, and you don't need to tighten the end nut like crazy.
I chose the 100amp alternator.
There is the 84amp option, but that was for pre-88 without A/C. Anything A/C I would put a 100amp alternator. The 88GT I put an 100amp alternator doesn't have A/C, but prefer that.
I believe the 88V6 only has the 100amp alternator available new from AC Delco.
Its unrealistic to buy a rebuilt alternator or starter from RockAuto because they charge you the core, and receive the credit once its received. But you need to spend money to ship it there. And in the end, your getting a re-build part. Worth it? IMO, No.
Unless RockAuto has a policy to return the core for free of charge, I don't know about it.
Its unrealistic to buy a rebuilt alternator or starter from RockAuto because they charge you the core, and receive the credit once its received.
2-1/2 years ago, I bought a re-manufactured 105A ACDelco alternator from RockAuto for my Formula. With their core charge for that alternator being $5... yes, only $5... it wasn't worthwhile worrying about it. The alternator was shipped across the border and delivered to my door in a matter of days for a grand total of just $85.49(USD). A very good deal, I felt... and still do!
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 12-02-2023).]
Originally posted by fierogt28: You need an impact to take it off, and re-install. Just hold the pulley with gloves, and you don't need to tighten the end nut like crazy.
Tighten the Pulley w/ impact tools can Wreck the Alternator.
The "Field" coils assembly is only Pressed On the shaft & easily moved if pulley nut is too tight for any reason or impact tools are used to tighten. Even move a little means the shaft "back" going to rear bearing is short causing bearing failure.
Tighten By Hand to think ~ 70-80 ft-lb but can't find my note for exact spec.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Tighten By Hand to think ~ 70-80 ft-lb but can't find my note for exact spec.
I've used an impact gun myself to change alternator pulleys, but was as gentle as possible when doing so. What's the best way to keep the rotor from turning if loosening/tightening the nut by hand?
To tighten, If all parts are Clean, a strap wrench around the pulley can hold for final torquing. If wrench have replaceable straps put a piece of a belt there to grab the pulley easier. Or put short section of belt between the pulley & strap. Tape the ends to keep it in place easier.
Can work w/ V belts but their harder to work the belt. Section of the belt gets more flat surface for the strap to grab.
If have the Case open then install the pulley w/ Field assem in a vise. Even many old B&D workmate stuff, jawhorse & related, & more will work here. (Jawhorse has several names as move between brands over time.)
Avoid pushing anything thru the case to "lock" the Field assem. If done poorly can break the case or parts/wires inside.
To tighten, If all parts are Clean, a strap wrench around the pulley can hold for final torquing. If wrench have replaceable straps put a piece of a belt there to grab the pulley easier. Or put short section of belt between the pulley & strap. Tape the ends to keep it in place easier.
Holding the pulley is one thing... but what stops the rotor from spinning. It's not like the pulley is keyed to the rotor shaft.
Originally posted by Patrick: Holding the pulley is one thing... but what stops the rotor from spinning. It's not like the pulley is keyed to the rotor shaft.
The pulley flat section rubs on other parts that can bind it to tighten it.
While many ignore warnings, they just stuff a screwdriver etc in the case to lock the coil assem. If you try that use something that will not damage either coil when you hit them. Just Scraping the insulation can haunt you days, weeks to months later.
Is Relatively easy to spit the case & use workmate, strap wrench, etc, to hold the coil but most won't do this for different reasons. For many just adds too much work & want the "easy fix."
I bought the new Remy from Rock AUto, when I took the old one out I was surprised to see the pulley was one rib larger and since the Remy also has the larger pulley I can't swap them. But since the larger pulley has worked for 35 years I just put in the Remy with the larger pulley. I'm really living dangerously, the belt looked fine so I haven't bothered putting in the new belt either.
My car has had the one-rib-larger pulley ever since the last time I replaced my alternator.... Probably about 18 years now. I've had no issues.
I'll have to take a closer look at some of the old alternators I have kicking around here!
