Hi All,

I apologize in advance for the length of this post, but here goes. I decided to replace my pop-ups with fixed units, hoping to get a frog eye look to the front end. I mounted and wired in the units shown below and they work exactly the way I want them. Daytime running lights powered and activated by the parking lights. Low beam and high beams in all four units.

They work perfectly for about 10-15 minutes or so; it seems until the lights or something else in the system gets hot. Once that something gets hot the low and high beams start cutting out, intermittently coming back on and cutting out and continuing to do so until I shut the car and the lights off. Once the car and the lights cool down and I restart the car, everything works perfectly again for another 10-15 minutes until the issue starts all over again.

If anyone has any suggestions, I would appreciate it.

Thank you.

reb (Roger)

Here is all of the info:

Black Twin Headlight Motorcycle Double Dual Lamp Street Fighter Universal

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26...%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg% 3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2&_trksid=p4375194.c101770.m146925&_trkparms=parentrq%3Af47f392018b0ab96c55adb79fffd40b0%7Cpageci%3Abd445096-88d0-11ee-be25-3a59f20ff616%7Ciid%3A1%7Cvlpname%3Avlp_homepage

Specifications:

• Full metal buckets Full Glass Lens
• 8.5" Total mounting width dimension
• 3.5" diameter side mount unit with Two H4 (Halogen) 12V 55/60 watt bulbs
• Lights wired in parallel to allow both lights to work as one
• Material: Metal and Plastic
• Color: Matt Black with Clear Lens
• Light Color: Amber
• Functions: Running Lights, Low Beam, High Beam
[img]https://imag es.fiero.nl/userimages/rebeck02/IMG_4512.jpg[/img]

you need to do some test with a multimeter while they are not working at various places to see where you are losing power.

idk how you got this wired up, but looking at your connector are you trying to run the headlights off of the headlight motor connector? If so, no worries you will soon burn the HL motor control module out and have to start fresh.

Thank you BuddyCraigg and Jelly2M8 for getting back to me so quickly. Will do on the testing. The power for the daytime lights comes from the parking lights. The low and high beams are connected to the original headlight power, not the headlight motor power. The headlight motor power is not connected to anything now and is capped off.

I welcome any additional feed back either of you or anyone else can provide.

Thank you.

reb (Roger)

Assuming you are using the regular headlight wiring, and just re-purposed the wiring to run your new lights, you may be marginally overloaded. IIRC, there is a circuit breaker in the fuse box, that is probably tripping, and killing the lights. (Do NOT replace anything with a higher value device.)
I would suggest installing relays, and letting your headlight wiring turn those on, instead of the lights themselves; and let the relays supply a higher current source to your lights.
My projectors came with a harness to accomplish exactly this, but I also have a front mounted battery, which makes things easier.

Hi Raydar, You are correct about just repurposing the original headlight wiring and your feedback is a big help. I really appreciate and will follow up on your suggestions. Thank you. reb

Hi All,

Electrical is definitely not my thing. I am more dozers, excavators and motor graders.

My 88's battery is still in the rear engine compartment, so I am wondering if there is a source anywhere up front I can use to power the relays for the lights? Jelly2m8 mentioned the HL motor wires and it sounded like I would burn up the HL motor control module if I connect anything to them. They are not connected to anything at this point, but I wonder if they can be used for anything or if I should just leave them abandoned and capped?

I am also wondering if anyone can suggest the right relays to use?

Lots of wondering, so I would appreciate any additional help you all are willing to share.

reb (Roger)

There is a circuit breaker built into the headlight switch.
It is self resetting.

Hi All,

A few new new questions:

Jelly2M8 - Thank you for your earlier feedback. Right now the new headlights get their high and low beam power from the old headlight high and low beam power. The new lights are fixed and the motors have been removed so the motor power is capped off. What problems do you foresee if I use the motor power to power a set of relays (Thank you Raydar for the relay suggestion) and use the high and low beam power to activate / deactivate the relays?

Olejoedad - Thank you for your response about the circuit breaker. Are you thinking that a new switch with its new circuit breaker may solve my power problem and I might not need to find a new source of power or a set of relays?

All - Anybody have any additional suggestions where to get power up front for a set of relays for the new headlights and any other thoughts about my question to Jelly2m8?

Thank you All. I really appreciate this Forum and your help.

reb (Roger)

There are a couple of different possibilities. There are two fusible links that feed "heavy duty" stuff in the front of the car.
Fusible Link A feeds the blower fan, the cooling fan, and supplies the "battery" side of the fuse box, among other things.
Fusible Link B feeds the parking lights, tail lights, and (through fusible links C and D) the power feed for the headlight motor control module. I'm not certain of the current loading of any of these devices. In any event, whatever circuit you choose to use to feed you new lights, please add an appropriate sized fuse in-line.

Here are the diagrams for the 88 power distribution. The wire from fusible link A jumps to the lower diagram. Most of the fusible links are joined at the terminal strip between the battery and the right side shock tower.
Also, the headlight motor control module is inside of the left front fender, in front of the wheel well.
Edit - Fusible links C and D are in the harness in the front compartment. Going by the diagram below, they appear to be towards the left front corner, which makes sense considering where the control module is.

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 12-12-2023).]

Hi Raydar, Thank you. I really appreciate your continued help and the detailed information. All of it is really helpful. Thank you very much. reb (Roger)

1. Need Relays to power the lights. See cave headlights.
W/o the relays 4 bulbs will fry the HL switches & more. Likely already the HL switch &/or beam switch have problems. Those can barely handle amp draw by Factory HL bulbs, hates just having 2 aftermarket DOT Legal "silverstar" et al 55/65 watt bulbs.

Do Not Think the HL switch Breaker will prevent the car from fire! Bad or Overloaded Beam & many other switches & more can melt to start a fire w/o tripping a breaker or blowing a fuse.

2. This "upgrade" is Illegal just having 4 Low beams. Even If "get away with it" locally, drive to other areas in Fl or to/thru other states can be a big Ticket Manget.
"Old school" cars etc w/ 4 HL bulbs allow only 2 Low beam on the outboard bulbs.

Covered is FMVSS 108 involving bulb Type 1C1 2C1 for 4 small round, 1A1 2A1 for 4 small square & related setups. 2_1 is low/high bulb, 1_1 is high only bulb. Many States laws have similar setups for HL allowed affecting all vehicles. While this likely has replaceable bulbs most 4 lamp setup have this rule. (Note that can be hard to read even now because so many HL setups in that reg. I just tried to read current text & made my eyes hurt. Way worse then older versions & have more Paywalled SAE doc's in that not available to the public. Some "text" in tables as Images like "TABLE II-a" listing Type A C etc. https://www.ecfr.gov/curren...rt-B/section-571.108 )

3. Most "HL Kits" etc sold on Eflay & many others are Illegal for other reasons, poorly made too & won't last. Isn't just most HID & LED "bulbs" that have huge problems.
So keep the OE HL parts because may need them to replace this & likely soon.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Hi Mr. Ogre, I really appreciate all of the help, the information, details and your advice. Clearly, I have some pondering to do. Thank you. reb (Roger)

2 add after reread of Top Post:
Yes, the HL switch Breaker was Tripping out because You need Relays with own fuse link near battery covered in cave.
Also now likely need a new HL switch & maybe beam switch. Breakers, more so w/ Thermal Breakers, "degrade" after tripping only a few times. Relays deflect power used but iffy switches should be replaced anyway.

Low Beam HL On does not = DRL. Just means you have HL On & must have Parking/Taillight On as well. & Parking side of HL Switch is not made handle extra load from HL bulbs.

DRL setups Does Not use Parking Lights at all even when Front Park/Turn bulb is the DRL.
Having Parking/Tail/Marker Lights On w/o HL Full On during Driving is illegal in many states.

Many that use Front Park/Turn bulb as DRL have problems including Factory Setups. Big reason: 2057 1157 2357 (3057 3157 Wedge base of same) & many others bright side filament is never design to run full time & neither are many Fixtures & DRL cook them.

LB HL used as DRL requires "dimming" per FMVSS 108 & some State Laws. Even ignore that, You what this to save bulb life, power draw, etc.
This is often done including OE DRL HL w/ more relay(s) to turn On LB HL but wired in Series so bulbs get ~ 50% power each. (Other vehicle have HL run BCM & other parts does same thing.)
This DRL relay(s) turns Off the function when want Full High or Low beam HL On.

It likely better/easier to find GM or other packaged DRL retrofit kits. Yes, GM actually made a kit for this but likely hard to find now. (GM PN 12370131 ) Is not for use w/ OE Fiero or other vehicles w/ popup/covered HL.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 12-14-2023).]

Hi Mr. Ogre,

Thank you for the great information and insights. It's all very helpful and I am learning a lot from it that I definitely didn't know or hadn't considered. I really appreciate your help. reb (Roger)