since its IMPOSSIBLE to roll up the passinger side window while sitting in the drivers seat i bought two 1986?doors complete with power windows.my plan is to bolt them on and then swap the outer panel and the inner panel.
Be aware that the power mirror wiring changed slightly during the Fiero production run. IIRC, it was between the 85 and 86 model year, but it's been about 20 years since I discovered it.....
since its IMPOSSIBLE to roll up the passinger side window while sitting in the drivers seat i bought two 1986?doors complete with power windows.my plan is to bolt them on and then swap the outer panel and the inner panel.
i honesty tried to get the whole harness but it was run all over the car.im thinking i just need two wires to each door and a wire with a fuse to the battery.i always straight wire my cars so the power windows work without the switch being on.
You might have issues with the doors lining up, because of the way the mill and drill machine worked, all of the body panels lined up with each other in each individual car, but when you move a door complete with power skin to another car it likely doesn't like up perfectly, it would likely be easier to swap the guts out and put power windows in your original doors
since its IMPOSSIBLE to roll up the passinger side window while sitting in the drivers seat i bought two 1986?doors complete with power windows.my plan is to bolt them on and then swap the outer panel and the inner panel.
Just a few thoughts (my opinion only):
1 - For the doors themselves... more than likely, the power windows are *barely* functional as it is... so you're not really saving yourself much if ANY effort at all by swapping the doors. I say this because you're going to want to rebuild the motor tracks, rollers, and everything else. I'd say it would be different if we were still in the 90s, and you could still get lower mileage Fiero parts. But everything you're going to get today is either totally trashed, or has been sitting in the heat somewhere. Everything obviously uses interchangeable parts... but because of the way the jig was set up, the doors will have to be adjusted to fit properly... where as your old doors are already positioned properly for your car. So just my opinion... you definitely want to keep your old doors... take apart the inside, and disassemble, clean, rebuild, and install all the components from the other door into your new car. Trust me on this.
2 - If you can still go back to the car in the junkyard, definitely try to get the power window harness. It's not as complicated as it may seem (it's WAY less complicated than power door locks), but you'll be saving yourself a lot of effort. You should get the switches, harness, center console switch bracket, etc. The entire harness basically runs along the center console, and then it's taped into the larger harness (though not connected to it) as it goes through the dash on either side to the doors. It connects into an "accessory power distribution block" which is located under the drivers side... basically... up against the firewall behind the fuse panel. It's really convenient because it's a large white block (if I remember correctly), that different accessories basically just plug into. Super convenient.
... if you absolutely, cannot get the old harness, then I recommend using the service manual to reconstruct the harness. You don't want power going through the switch... you only want to use that to control a relay.
i honesty tried to get the whole harness but it was run all over the car.im thinking i just need two wires to each door and a wire with a fuse to the battery.i always straight wire my cars so the power windows work without the switch being on.
The cross-car harness should be a lot more complex than two wires, plus the connectors and controls/switches are nice to have.
As for the replacement doors being gummed up, try to clean old grease out or at lease grease the window tracks as well as you can. Unless the motors are shot, greasing the tracks alone should speed up the window up and down speed quite a bit. I used Marine Grease. Smells for a while, but worked very well. Windows went from very slow to at or near normal speed.
[This message has been edited by fierobear (edited 12-24-2023).]
The cross-car harness should be a lot more complex than two wires, plus the connectors and controls/switches are nice to have.
As for the replacement doors being gummed up, try to clean old grease out or at lease grease the window tracks as well as you can. Unless the motors are shot, greasing the tracks alone should speed up the window up and down speed quite a bit. I used Marine Grease. Smells for a while, but worked very well. Windows went from very slow to at or near normal speed.
i got the harness from the switches to behind the radio and from the ends of the dash to the doors.i was an hour from my house and had somewhere to be.i also need to install my fiero store window weatherstripping.
i got the harness from the switches to behind the radio and from the ends of the dash to the doors.i was an hour from my house and had somewhere to be.i also need to install my fiero store window weatherstripping.
You should still be good to go... however, as I mentioned above, I recommend you download the service manual (for free) and reconstruct the original harness, and find the pig-tail end for the power source, and plug it into the original port on the power block. This will ensure that the fuse dedicated to power windows and the other accessories is properly used.
EDIT: I've done this before too a few times for most of the accessories. I hate to say it... because it's both sad and sucks at the same time, but ~15 years ago, my local junkyard had three new Fieros in it every single week (they'd be crushed and replaced by the following Thursday). It seemed like they were always loaded with every option. Many 88s, some loaded 85 GTs with the fleece seats, several Formulas, and multiple T-Top Fieros. But in every case, I'd grab the harnesses and such (I had both the time, and parts were absurdly cheap). I'd probably upgraded at least 3-4 Fieros that I'd bought and sold over the years with these parts. Kinda makes you sad that they're not so plentiful anymore, but also makes you realize how many were probably crushed. This was JUST in South Florida... one junkyard, and they were all rust free Fieros. I can assume that during that time, you had the same thing going on everywhere else at every other junkyard.
[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 12-26-2023).]
Outer "skin" is located by One Screw near the outer handle under the trim. All others just holds it on the door. Do Not Adjust big black plastic "screw" on the door frame that the small screw goes into.
If you remove a door from the car for any reason... The bolts from hinge to door allows 3 ways to adjust. Vertical, Horizontal & Twist. Twist is where upper & lower hinges are adjusted opposite of each other. You must have Door adjusted close to right Before you try closing the window or things will break, seal can tear, etc.
See https://web.archive.org/web...cast.net/~fierocave/ door & window pages. Note: Door page was written for damage doors... Install Rear screw in the OE hole first then most to all others "finger tight" to check skin fit to other panels.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Never realized they were that heavy. I recently got a door from pull a part and that Fiero was at the very back corner of the lot! Hauled it back in a wheelbarrow. Ugh.
