leak was on the gasket and from the plug in the pump body. and I didn't say the impeller was causing the leak just that I'm fairly sure it's not circulating water properly based on how removing the thermostat immediately caused a massive change which in my personal experience will help out a slipping impeller oh and the clamp is for holding the timing cover down since they like to separate from the block when the pump is removed apparently but I've never experienced it
What I hear is that; earlier it was growling loudly, then it stopped but is now leaking badly.
You need a new or remanufactured pump .... properly installed. Make sure the mating surfaces are true and clean with no meaningful gouges. Take some time at this step. Don't be afraid to run a careful flat file looking for bulges at the thread locations. Chase the threads if there is any crap at all, and flush them out with air and WD 40. Wire brush the bolts. If any are badly oxidized, replace them with the correct bolts. The gasket is another area to take time. That's a detail often overlooked. Naturally, check the new pump for potential mating surface issues or anything that might affect the success of the installation. Don't forget the anti galling compound and do use the torque spec.
What I hear is that; earlier it was growling loudly, then it stopped but is now leaking badly.
You need a new or remanufactured pump .... properly installed. Make sure the mating surfaces are true and clean with no meaningful gouges. Take some time at this step. Don't be afraid to run a careful flat file looking for bulges at the thread locations. Chase the threads if there is any crap at all, and flush them out with air and WD 40. Wire brush the bolts. If any are badly oxidized, replace them with the correct bolts. The gasket is another area to take time. That's a detail often overlooked. Naturally, check the new pump for potential mating surface issues or anything that might affect the success of the installation. Don't forget the anti galling compound and do use the torque spec.
little out of order but might be my fault. it leaked when it was originally installed until it was coated in rtv being careful to leave the weep hole open. I did clean both surfaces but that only goes so far with a Chinese pump. still doing diagnosis but it's a little hard when it's all bad of unknown or something changes in the middle of testing (like the fan speeding up suddenly for no apparent reason or the gauge working kinda) its on the list after I get a larger pickup done for some extra cash and a tow dolly so I don't have to flat tow it every time it overheats or has a electrical fit
little out of order but might be my fault. it leaked when it was originally installed until it was coated in rtv being careful to leave the weep hole open. I did clean both surfaces but that only goes so far with a Chinese pump. still doing diagnosis but it's a little hard when it's all bad of unknown or something changes in the middle of testing (like the fan speeding up suddenly for no apparent reason or the gauge working kinda) its on the list after I get a larger pickup done for some extra cash and a tow dolly so I don't have to flat tow it every time it overheats or has a electrical fit
If the pump is screwed up, leaks, growls or is low quality crap, then you need a "good" pump, properly installed. At the very least you need to remove "failed" pump and see why it leaked when originally installed. This is careful investigative engine surgery. You ask ... why did this pump leak? Was a detail missed at installation? Did the pump fit properly? Did something get accidently warped or distorted? Look carefully at the gasket. Was it accidently damaged when installed? And the weirdest, is it the correct part? Been there.
Buy quality parts. The water pump for the 2.8 is readily available from your local Chevy Dealer Parts Department. The car is old but that engine is not.
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado: (like the fan speeding up suddenly for no apparent reason or the gauge working kinda) its on the list after I get a larger pickup done for some extra cash and a tow dolly so I don't have to flat tow it every time it overheats or has a electrical fit
You've heard this before about electrical issues.
Grounds. Wicked clean and wicked tight. All contacts .... clean and bright.
Grounds. Wicked clean and wicked tight. All contacts .... clean and bright.
I think that's in a Rap Song some where.
good song. maybe record it in the shower for a nice voice clip to send to new members lol. actually where I started and they didn't change anything. cleaned and tightened and replaced all the butt connectors with solid solder (hand done and strong enough to swing a 15 pound weight with. and none of that pre made crud that's heat shrink with low temp solder inside) so it's somewhere in the harness and while the car is stripped I'm gonna be going through it to find some major issues
If the pump is screwed up, leaks, growls or is low quality crap, then you need a "good" pump, properly installed. At the very least you need to remove "failed" pump and see why it leaked when originally installed. This is careful investigative engine surgery. You ask ... why did this pump leak? Was a detail missed at installation? Did the pump fit properly? Did something get accidently warped or distorted? Look carefully at the gasket. Was it accidently damaged when installed? And the weirdest, is it the correct part? Been there.
Buy quality parts. The water pump for the 2.8 is readily available from your local Chevy Dealer Parts Department. The car is old but that engine is not.
I'll be removing the pump when the fiero store decides that they actually want to ship it. it's been on order for a few months and they apparently lost it....I'm pretty sure they are just mad I called them out on their poorly made adjustable shift cables that cannot even stand up to the Temps the stock cables can. I've had more crappy and incorrect parts from them then anywhere else at this point. when I get a bunch of money to burn ill go to my local Chevy dealer and try? it's sunset so I'll probably get laughed out the door for even trying I'm honestly fairly sure the pump just has a huge low spot that didn't look too obvious but was when it was installed. regardless when I can get my hands on non Chinese garbage I'll be putting it in
I am wondering if bad alignments are the cause of people finding their Fiero's 'light', 'lifting' at speed?
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Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: This I don't really understand. At 120+ miles an hour, my 87 Fiero SE / V6 (aero style) was rock solid on the road. Matter of fact, the car felt more planted when it was pegged at 120 miles an hour than it did at 60.
I also never had any issues with my headlights either... but I know that's a common problem. My Fiero's suspension wasn't modified at the time, pretty stock.
Honestly incredibly likely it's an alignment problem. I've never had my headlight doors open on me but I've heard of it being a problem (possibly weak door springs?) but MAN my car does NOT feel good at 120. Any steering input at all and it wants to just shoot across the road at mach 10. It feels floaty and a little squirrely... that's gotten better with the stiffer springs and shocks but it's still not confidence inspiring by any stretch!
down a mountain pass chasing my time I did in a 95 gtp (120 mph 4 wheel drifts with no handbrake on that lq1 equipped fwd pile) so generally if I'm on the forum ive tried my best and couldn't find anything
quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado: a friend who rolled their focus
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Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado: focus wore through a brand new tire in 5 miles of normal driving somehow and decided to break every lug stud for 2 weeks straight
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Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado: it broke after a month or so and by broke I mean had a issue stalling out with 0 warning and could not be restarted unless you kicked the dash.
With all due respect man, you and your friends have got to stay off the road. Fix your stuff properly and go to a track or autocross or something before you actually for real kill yourself.
With all due respect man, you and your friends have got to stay off the road. Fix your stuff properly and go to a track or autocross or something before you actually for real kill yourself.
with all respect due to you. all of those were just out of the shop. only time they have ever and will ever be in one. the tire shop tried telling me the gtp needed brakes and I had put them on 4 hours before getting tires so I tell em I'll look. so I get in the car to leave and my pedal hits the floor. so I check and they loosened my rear bleed screws to try to sell me brakes which they got reported for since I don't touch the bleed screw when doing pads or the toyota needing the timing chain recall done so they completely do it wrong causing it to break the new guides and clog the pickup within 20 miles every shop for a 500 mile radius are crooks around here and cannot even do a simple fluid change without damaging the vehicle. they hit a wall with our perfect high mile cb7 and tried saying it looked like that. and the focus? custom suspension shop installed h and r coilovers that weren't even installed remotely properly. how do you forget to install the shocks with more than one bolt or not tighten the locking collars. they ended up going on a different focus thats been fine minus the random issue caused by the coilovers not having slow enough dampening to properly soak up bumps
[This message has been edited by cartercarbaficionado (edited 08-12-2024).]
Honestly incredibly likely it's an alignment problem. I've never had my headlight doors open on me but I've heard of it being a problem (possibly weak door springs?) but MAN my car does NOT feel good at 120. Any steering input at all and it wants to just shoot across the road at mach 10. It feels floaty and a little squirrely... that's gotten better with the stiffer springs and shocks but it's still not confidence inspiring by any stretch!
? that's not normal at all. the 88 formula and even the 84 fully revved out (160 and 120 respectively) are fairly planted and stable minus the 88s having a kinda loose steering rack center but it needs to be replaced otherwise the adjustment will make the ends bind. (this is a common issue and something that needs to be checked every time the rack is adjusted otherwise you will make issues.) the real trick to making these better is to actually have most of the factory undercarriage rubber and to install skid plates to flatten out the bottom so it can ride on cleaner air letting it suck itself to the ground just a little. our solution other than that was to have slightly more rake than normal pushing the front into the ground from the air flowing against the car so under heavy accel its a flat ride instead of the front being a little high. (definitely a pre 88 issue was the front springs sometimes being a little too strong and having the front being higher than the rear just sitting there) if your wheel isn't perfectly centered around the wheel arch but a little suspension travel makes it have equal distance top and the sides (inch and a half to 2 inches) then you should lower the front a tad. these are super sensitive to any changes so any bad mounts or loose subframe bushings are immediately noticeable to a decent driver as the car will crab walk just a little. barely even perceptible but it's there
Honestly incredibly likely it's an alignment problem. I've never had my headlight doors open on me but I've heard of it being a problem (possibly weak door springs?) but MAN my car does NOT feel good at 120. Any steering input at all and it wants to just shoot across the road at mach 10. It feels floaty and a little squirrely... that's gotten better with the stiffer springs and shocks but it's still not confidence inspiring by any stretch!
What year car do you have? For the most part... based on what you're describing, the things I'd consider are likely ball joints or a failed steering damper.
Worn ball joints can lead to a car feeling floaty since there's a lot of play in them which can literally lead to changes in camber and caster while you're driving... this can exacerbate any steering issues. Rubber bushings of course can also fail, but I've found that ball joints create more of an issue than anything.
I mention the steering damper too... because if you've never changed it out, these are basically shocks that dampen the effect of steering. Without one, a small rock or pothole can jerk the steering wheel out of your hand. The steering damper is primarily meant to resolve this... but it can ALSO dampen the effects of worn tie-rod ends (again... which are essentially ball joints).
When my Fiero was at its peak, it was rock-solid on the road... I mean, it went exactly where I wanted it, and floaty was the furthest concept from how I'd define that car's characteristics.
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: What year car do you have? For the most part... based on what you're describing, the things I'd consider are likely ball joints or a failed steering damper.
Worn ball joints can lead to a car feeling floaty since there's a lot of play in them which can literally lead to changes in camber and caster while you're driving... this can exacerbate any steering issues. Rubber bushings of course can also fail, but I've found that ball joints create more of an issue than anything.
I mention the steering damper too... because if you've never changed it out, these are basically shocks that dampen the effect of steering. Without one, a small rock or pothole can jerk the steering wheel out of your hand. The steering damper is primarily meant to resolve this... but it can ALSO dampen the effects of worn tie-rod ends (again... which are essentially ball joints).
When my Fiero was at its peak, it was rock-solid on the road... I mean, it went exactly where I wanted it, and floaty was the furthest concept from how I'd define that car's characteristics.
I have brand new shocks, springs, upper and lower balljoints, poly bushings on every control arm. Only things left are the STOCK steering damper and inner + outer tie rods. I don't feel any play in the rod ends, so I'm sure it's the damper being 38 years old. To rockauto I go!
? that's not normal at all. the 88 formula and even the 84 fully revved out (160 and 120 respectively)
Mph or kph? The 2.8l Fieros had a top speed of 125mph, 200kph, top gear is geared to that speed, close to redline, so no way it's doing 160mph without a different engine and transmission. On the other hand if it's only hitting 160kph, your Fieros lacking some power there!
I have brand new shocks, springs, upper and lower balljoints, poly bushings on every control arm. Only things left are the STOCK steering damper and inner + outer tie rods. I don't feel any play in the rod ends, so I'm sure it's the damper being 38 years old. To rockauto I go!
Oh yeah, your damper is totally shot. It's providing absolutely no support whatsoever. Honestly, when you replace it, your car is going to feel like nothing you've ever experienced... it legitimately feels like a brand new car because the feedback is totally different.
Respectfully though, if you have any real miles on the car (to the point that you felt the need to rebuild the suspension), then your tie-rod ends are definitely shot. They won't feel like they have play if they are pulled tight... but at speed and when steering, it reduces the slack on the wheels and can dramatically affect the behavior of the car. Your failed steering damper merely "exacerbates" the feeling from the worn tie-rod ends.
If you replace them one at a time, (and mark length of each), you likely won't have to get an alignment.
I have brand new shocks, springs, upper and lower balljoints, poly bushings on every control arm. Only things left are the STOCK steering damper and inner + outer tie rods. I don't feel any play in the rod ends, so I'm sure it's the damper being 38 years old. To rockauto I go!
You need an alignment. Do it yourself or find someone who understands what modifications you've done .
Please, do your high speed testing someplace other than public roads.
with all respect due to you. all of those were just out of the shop. only time they have ever and will ever be in one. the tire shop tried telling me the gtp needed brakes and I had put them on 4 hours before getting tires so I tell em I'll look. so I get in the car to leave and my pedal hits the floor. so I check and they loosened my rear bleed screws to try to sell me brakes which they got reported for since I don't touch the bleed screw when doing pads or the toyota needing the timing chain recall done so they completely do it wrong causing it to break the new guides and clog the pickup within 20 miles every shop for a 500 mile radius are crooks around here and cannot even do a simple fluid change without damaging the vehicle. they hit a wall with our perfect high mile cb7 and tried saying it looked like that. and the focus? custom suspension shop installed h and r coilovers that weren't even installed remotely properly. how do you forget to install the shocks with more than one bolt or not tighten the locking collars. they ended up going on a different focus thats been fine minus the random issue caused by the coilovers not having slow enough dampening to properly soak up bumps
Something interesting going on here.
Always bad new parts, and now "... every shop for a 500 mile radius are crooks ...".
Do you have a mirror that you can look in? I know it's wicked scary but .....
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: Oh yeah, your damper is totally shot. It's providing absolutely no support whatsoever. Honestly, when you replace it, your car is going to feel like nothing you've ever experienced... it legitimately feels like a brand new car because the feedback is totally different.
Respectfully though, if you have any real miles on the car (to the point that you felt the need to rebuild the suspension), then your tie-rod ends are definitely shot. They won't feel like they have play if they are pulled tight... but at speed and when steering, it reduces the slack on the wheels and can dramatically affect the behavior of the car. Your failed steering damper merely "exacerbates" the feeling from the worn tie-rod ends.
If you replace them one at a time, (and mark length of each), you likely won't have to get an alignment.
I work at an alignment shop so it shouldn't be an issue to just realign it after everything. I only rebuilt the suspension because the control arms were dry rotted and I mangled the ball joints trying to separate them from the spindle, probably would've been smart to do tie rods at the same time but they looked the least terrible. I'll get stuff on order, only reason I didn't replace the steering damper already was because I read some ancient post here saying without it the steering effort is decreased with wider tires. Whether that's true or not really doesn't matter because it's a safety feature at the end of the day and I don't feel like dying in a Fiero.
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Originally posted by Yellow-88: You need an alignment. Do it yourself or find someone who understands what modifications you've done .
Please, do your high speed testing someplace other than public roads.
Don't be like that, I refuse to sit here and believe you've never opened any car up on the interstate to see what it does. At least I'm not "4 wheel drifting a grand prix." I go to the track every other weekend, I'm doing my best keeping testing off the street. Besides, my speedo ends at 85 so I've only ever gone 85
jokes aside I don't feel like dying so I don't think this car has made it past 100 with how it feels currently. And it's been aligned several times for racing, so I'm sure the extra camber and toe isn't helping it on the street but unless someone wants to buy me a trailer, that's how it has to get to the track.
[This message has been edited by Additivewalnut (edited 08-13-2024).]
Don't be like that, I refuse to sit here and believe you've never opened any car up on the interstate to see what it does. At least I'm not "4 wheel drifting a grand prix." I go to the track every other weekend, I'm doing my best keeping testing off the street. Besides, my speedo ends at 85 so I've only ever gone 85
jokes aside I don't feel like dying so I don't think this car has made it past 100 with how it feels currently. And it's been aligned several times for racing, so I'm sure the extra camber and toe isn't helping it on the street but unless someone wants to buy me a trailer, that's how it has to get to the track.
If it's set up to be a race car, then it should be comfortable at speed. Some one maybe feeding you misinformation about alignment.
Mph or kph? The 2.8l Fieros had a top speed of 125mph, 200kph, top gear is geared to that speed, close to redline, so no way it's doing 160mph without a different engine and transmission. On the other hand if it's only hitting 160kph, your Fieros lacking some power there!
mph. it's the high geared 4 speed and I've had a GPS and laser tell me how fast I was going. I also left a subaru in the dust without realizing it since they couldn't keep up at the top end
Always bad new parts, and now "... every shop for a 500 mile radius are crooks ...".
Do you have a mirror that you can look in? I know it's wicked scary but .....
no it shattered from how ugly I am unfortunately. have you tried any of the affordable parts these days? we get maybe a week out of em before they fail (we is me and my buddies so that's a sample size of around 20 people all installing it themselves or paying a shop to get it done faster) yeah shops around here are. I just saved a truck from one because they screwed up the whole front end and ended up hacking out the rivets to the leaf spring mount and giving up when they couldn't get it off. well apparently they ended up attacking the cab mount instead so I had to do it right and fix their jank so yeah.
mph. it's the high geared 4 speed and I've had a GPS and laser tell me how fast I was going. I also left a subaru in the dust without realizing it since they couldn't keep up at the top end
High geared as in the 84 economy gearing? There were only 3 4 speeds, 84 economy, 84 performance, and v6 one) Unless there's a LOT done to the 2.8 it isn't going 160mph, it can't, any higher gearing and it becomes power limited (the 4 speed let's it rev all the way out, with the tiny gearing change to the getrag 5 speed, like 150rpm at 70mph difference, and the engine won't rev out. A stock 2.8 will get up to 125mph, modified a lot, I wouldn't question 135, 160 though? That's not possible with this engine unless it's dropped from a plane. What rpm are you turning at 60mph exactly?
That's not possible with this engine unless it's dropped from a plane. What rpm are you turning at 60mph exactly?
Hahah!!!
One time in my youth, I had my Fiero floored... wanted to see how fast it would go, and the needle went past the 120 mark, to what would have likely been 130 had it been on the speedometer. I had a few modifications to the stock 2.8 at the time, including the ThermoMaster chip (no idea what that did), hogged out exhaust manifolds, 1.52:1 roller rockers, port-matched intake components, a higher-flowing cat, K&N air filter (ok, look...), and the Ocelot exhaust system.
This was with a GX3, 3.33:1 final drive Th-125c, and the RPMs on the tach showed around ~4,800 or so if I remember correctly. Redline is at 6k, but with the pedal floored, and it being a mild Florida spring morning (about mid 70s with low humidity), the car just wouldn't go any faster. It was floored... the output of the engine could not overcome the wind and rolling resistance to make it go any faster.
One time in my youth, I had my Fiero floored... wanted to see how fast it would go, and the needle went past the 120 mark, to what would have likely been 130 had it been on the speedometer. I had a few modifications to the stock 2.8 at the time, including the ThermoMaster chip (no idea what that did), hogged out exhaust manifolds, 1.52:1 roller rockers, port-matched intake components, a higher-flowing cat, K&N air filter (ok, look...), and the Ocelot exhaust system.
This was with a GX3, 3.33:1 final drive Th-125c, and the RPMs on the tach showed around ~4,800 or so if I remember correctly. Redline is at 6k, but with the pedal floored, and it being a mild Florida spring morning (about mid 70s with low humidity), the car just wouldn't go any faster. It was floored... the output of the engine could not overcome the wind and rolling resistance to make it go any faster.
Yeah, the higher the gearing, it becomes power limited, I think the regular 4 speed takes it up to the maximum speed right close to the redline, still power limited, but using every available rpm haha, also the speedos become quite inaccurate at higher speeds, so if it "showed" 130, it would have likely still been right around 125. Slightly modified, if believe 130 or even 135, if GPS measured, 160, there's literally no possible way.
High geared as in the 84 economy gearing? There were only 3 4 speeds, 84 economy, 84 performance, and v6 one) Unless there's a LOT done to the 2.8 it isn't going 160mph, it can't, any higher gearing and it becomes power limited (the 4 speed let's it rev all the way out, with the tiny gearing change to the getrag 5 speed, like 150rpm at 70mph difference, and the engine won't rev out. A stock 2.8 will get up to 125mph, modified a lot, I wouldn't question 135, 160 though? That's not possible with this engine unless it's dropped from a plane. What rpm are you turning at 60mph exactly?
2300 rpm in 4th at 60 mph. when i hit 3k I'm doing 70 and just below 4 I'm doing 100 mph. this engine does have a Dawg mod intake and no cat (and now a stainless exhaust) and all I know is that the car is nippy above 3k and I was very much faster than the subaru that was doing 120 against its limiter and staying ahead of a camry doing 140 (don't tell me a 2007 v6 camry cannot do 140 because I know for a fact with the track trim it can and will) I wasn't trusting the fiero speedo so I've been using a GPS one both on my phone and a secondary stand alone part.
[This message has been edited by cartercarbaficionado (edited 08-14-2024).]
well finally made time for this issue and car again. it's getting put back together with a Rodney's low temp fan switch. (don't lecture me about it. the cooling system is completely fine 90 percent of the time until it suddenly isn't and a little more warning would be nice without needing to constantly babysit it.) new gauge sender and the entire interior was removed to find some wiring issues and get make it fit a little better. the hope is to have the bumper put back on temporarily until I get the new aero signals from the fiero store to let me use the new 88 coupe front. I have figured out some of the reason for overheating and the high idle issue this car has had on and off... yeah it was the stupid egr tube splitting In half. as for the garbage running and fuel economy im gonna dig into my stash for a gm genuine icm that I have personally tested on a vehicle that uses the same distributor parts (4.3l cpi incase you were wondering) and I'll see if that helps like it usually does since I do have a few map sensors as well if it decides those are not reporting within range. also considering a few delete parts for some common issues. namely the throttle body coolant lines and cold start injector but I'll likely leave the latter installed
well finally made time for this issue and car again. it's getting put back together with a Rodney's low temp fan switch. (don't lecture me about it. the cooling system is completely fine 90 percent of the time until it suddenly isn't and a little more warning would be nice without needing to constantly babysit it.) new gauge sender and the entire interior was removed to find some wiring issues and get make it fit a little better. the hope is to have the bumper put back on temporarily until I get the new aero signals from the fiero store to let me use the new 88 coupe front. I have figured out some of the reason for overheating and the high idle issue this car has had on and off... yeah it was the stupid egr tube splitting In half. as for the garbage running and fuel economy im gonna dig into my stash for a gm genuine icm that I have personally tested on a vehicle that uses the same distributor parts (4.3l cpi incase you were wondering) and I'll see if that helps like it usually does since I do have a few map sensors as well if it decides those are not reporting within range. also considering a few delete parts for some common issues. namely the throttle body coolant lines and cold start injector but I'll likely leave the latter installed
So... the bottom line is that it's still overheating and being weird. Even if it's only sometime. That's technically an "intermittent" and is for sure the most aggravating kind of problem, and unfortunately, your shotgun style of problem solving is the least effective approach, especially for intermittents.
"... as for the garbage running and fuel economy ..." There are really just 2 functions affecting that. Fuel and ignition. I know that you have both the tools and the knowledge to isolate the problem, if you follow a structured approach. I know that focus is a bit difficult for you and that's not criticism. Learning to focus is a skill that takes effort. Take a step back and try to focus.
So... the bottom line is that it's still overheating and being weird. Even if it's only sometime. That's technically an "intermittent" and is for sure the most aggravating kind of problem, and unfortunately, your shotgun style of problem solving is the least effective approach, especially for intermittents.
"... as for the garbage running and fuel economy ..." There are really just 2 functions affecting that. Fuel and ignition. I know that you have both the tools and the knowledge to isolate the problem, if you follow a structured approach. I know that focus is a bit difficult for you and that's not criticism. Learning to focus is a skill that takes effort. Take a step back and try to focus.
I have no idea how it runs currently actually. I haven't touched the car in a few months but it's getting alot of tested parts from a 87 2.8 engine and trans assembly I got recently since I needed some bits for my 87 gt as well. (namely the throttle body since it's one is actively disintegrating and will be tig welded back together to seal it up for the spare engine sitting on a crate) and I had this 88 not overheating for months yellow. it didn't get mentioned on the forum for almost a year since it was running and driving fairly well after it got New upper intake gaskets and head gaskets and then fell on its face one night and drove home needing to stop every 30 minutes and cool off. I've replaced any parts that measured faulty which has been pretty much everything in the ignition and fuel system within that year and finally I've got a new tested ecm to try since the one in the car clearly has no idea what it's doing (engine will run great and then suddenly backfire which was happening more and more as I fixed vacuum leaks that were popping up from the previous owners repairs like the entire plastic vac lines were sliced at the ends but superglued back together for some reason) and I know it's throwing timing at the engine and seeing what sticks in a buckshot approach since I got an aldl scanner from a old mechanic shop closing and I wish I was kidding but it was going from 14 degrees at full throttle to 30 at random and the same throttle and load values so yeah. the shotgun approach I have just seems that way because every square inch of this car has been cobbled together and so far its down to the engine and electrics instead of everything but the frame basically falling apart.
So ... You have 3 Fieros? Two 87's and one 88? Maybe give then names so it's easer to tell which one you're talking about. Tangerine is the 88 correct?
So ... You have 3 Fieros? Two 87's and one 88? Maybe give then names so it's easer to tell which one you're talking about. Tangerine is the 88 correct?
1 84 (waiting on name since apparently Casper isn't a good one) my 87 res and Grey gt called Prarie queen (since it was full of dead field mice and I get covered in grass evertime I work on it) and the Tangerine machine. but yeah the Tangerine cracked its cooling pipe on the drivers side while sitting
the Tangerine No longer has a cracked cooling pipe and got some stuff done finally. the decklid lock also broke so I had to drill it out so that's great. one step forward and 2 back just like always. finally getting more stuff fixed and figured out needless to say this car was a complete mess when we got it and it's finally getting better. the entire engine harness got repaired and it no longer overheats just sitting there for 15 minutes (replaced the gauge with a 84 gauge as well since I got an aftermarket one and didn't know if I could run it in the rear cylinderhead that's against the firewall and didn't trust the stock one) yes the last picture is of me doing bodywork since the lock hole got messed up and was a little messed up before. base layer of short strand and it's gonna get upol gold over it and blended out to fit a 1/2 extension back (just about the same size as the lock)
[This message has been edited by cartercarbaficionado (edited 09-02-2024).]
I think I finally got it. didn't overheat after a spirited drive that was an hour long and runs ok? still low on power and the check engine light is on (haven't checked why yet) was starting better with the new ecu when cold but now starts like garbage after being driven so I'm not 100% sure what's going on with that
