finally got time to deal with it more other than unsticking the brakes and I'm missing the passenger side power mirror and drivers side mirror adjuster and mirror backplate and I gotta make some bits. does anyone know where to get a new hood opener with cables? also I just remembered I put an einbach spring on the rear passenger corner and it sits at the same height as the rest once settled so I'm wondering if the stock springs are just that worn out. I will be getting the other spring so I can at least have the rears the same. unsure if the parts car has aftermarket front springs but it looked stock edit:added photos and 2nd edit added some info
[This message has been edited by cartercarbaficionado (edited 06-30-2024).]
Is that a stack of Fiero hoods I see there in the background? Damn!
You could try e-mailing Larry Hubbert. He lives about an hour from me, and has a ton of parts. You'll have to skip ahead in my daughter's video, but his contact information is in there: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHSvrFnWoCM
You could also PM Villain on here, who is 1 hour from me, and also has a ton of Fiero parts.
Is that a stack of Fiero hoods I see there in the background? Damn!
You could try e-mailing Larry Hubbert. He lives about an hour from me, and has a ton of parts. You'll have to skip ahead in my daughter's video, but his contact information is in there: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHSvrFnWoCM
You could also PM Villain on here, who is 1 hour from me, and also has a ton of Fiero parts.
I've emailed Larry already and actually messaging him on Facebook messenger (dating myself a bit there ain't i?) is alot more reliable at the moment since he just got out of the hospital a little bit ago and is not allowed to work or visit his workshop until he's strong enough and even then it's a limited time for a long while. I will probably pm villain if I can find them but do remember I live on the west coast near Seattle so paying for that shipping does kinda suck. as for the pile of hoods they aren't mine but the person who sold me the fiero owns them and a huge stack of bumpers and such. unfortunately no 87 coupe fronts though.
I've emailed Larry already and actually messaging him on Facebook messenger (dating myself a bit there ain't i?) is alot more reliable at the moment since he just got out of the hospital a little bit ago and is not allowed to work or visit his workshop until he's strong enough and even then it's a limited time for a long while. I will probably pm villain if I can find them but do remember I live on the west coast near Seattle so paying for that shipping does kinda suck. as for the pile of hoods they aren't mine but the person who sold me the fiero owns them and a huge stack of bumpers and such. unfortunately no 87 coupe fronts though.
Ok, this might help a little.. there's Mike from Mike's Fiero Parts: boysatt1@gmail.com
There's also supposedly someone on the west coast (California specifically) that has a whole Fiero junkyard.
Did they stop asking what you plan to tow before renting? Many Rental places won't allow Fiero on that equipment. When Tow the "right way" then weight balance is "Wrong" & unsafe. Many think tow backward because of weight balance etc but that's illegal in many states.
+
Tow vehicle is likely over GVWR too causing more problems. Most small trucks can't handle 3000+ lb draw weight.
If you lied to U-haul... U-haul can sue you on top getting sued by others if also had a wreck.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Did they stop asking what you plan to tow before renting? Many Rental places won't allow Fiero on that equipment. When Tow the "right way" then weight balance is "Wrong" & unsafe. Many think tow backward because of weight balance etc but that's illegal in many states.
+
Tow vehicle is likely over GVWR too causing more problems. Most small trucks can't handle 3000+ lb draw weight.
If you lied to U-haul... U-haul can sue you on top getting sued by others if also had a wreck.
Hey Ogre, I towed a Fiero the exact same way with the same equipment (a 2-wheel dolly from U-Haul).
I towed it with my wife's Ford Edge that comes with a factory Class-4 trailer hitch (front wheel drive with a 3.5 DOHC V6).
I had the Fiero backed onto the trailer because I wanted the driving wheels on the dolly, and I just locked the steering wheel. Was this wrong? I've towed a lot of cars like this.
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: Hey Ogre, I towed a Fiero the exact same way with the same equipment (a 2-wheel dolly from U-Haul).
I towed it with my wife's Ford Edge that comes with a factory Class-4 trailer hitch (front wheel drive with a 3.5 DOHC V6).
I had the Fiero backed onto the trailer because I wanted the driving wheels on the dolly, and I just locked the steering wheel. Was this wrong? I've towed a lot of cars like this.
Your Tow Vehicle maybe fine pulling 3000+ pounds... Stopping maybe a different story. Many vehicles w/ Factory installed Class 3 & 4 receivers expect the load to have their own brakes. More so w/ Draw Weight > 1000 to 2000 lb. The dolly is 750lb per Uhaul.com on top of Car weight & whatever crap in the car.
Again Towing anything Backward is Illegal in many places. In other states maybe legal but need more light & reflectors other then lights on the dolly.
Is part of why most Rental Op's won't rent a dolly to tow Fiero & some others.
Even most Towing Co's won't tow backward even way back in the day when only get sling hooks because can't trust the front end w/ steering wheel tied/locked down. Many only tow backward only to get access to front to tow. IE to move a vehicle out of a garage or driveway then rehook to actually tow.
1 "quick" Example: Reverse driving alone changes alignment & has Negative Caster. Find a parking lot w/ big hole somewhere away from other things or people. Drive forward so 1 front wheel hits... Often is easy for you because driving forward has Positive Castor.
Now backup to hit same... Often try to slam you to tear S-wheel out of your hand(s). Many that Back Into Driveways etc often have this problem too depending on driveway, curb design, & more when they live or work.
Even when you jack the rear to tow, the fronts Still have Negative Caster then multiply that to hundreds to thousands of times towing w/ front wheels down. Worse towing on any Highway @ 55 to 70+MPH. Even on 84-87 Fiero w/ steering buffers on the rack, the buffers are not made to handle that abuse. PS isn't made to take this too but hinds this from the driver.
So even when you lock the S-wheel tight, including "Pro Tools" that Tow Co's can get, the column & other steering parts can Fail Without Warning & towed vehicle front is in another lane or hit something, worse someone. That's ignoring problems like "Fiero" Saginaw Column W/ Infamous 4 Bolts that gets loose or Tilt Top breaks @ the hinges etc just driving forward.
Before anyone says... "but s-wheel locks w/ I-key out..." That is only Anti Theft. Not for locking to tow w/ front wheel down. Have the key out for this can, often will, wreck the column. The Pin & Plate is steel but the Pin is in Zinc, Aluminum or worse soft materiel.
Did they stop asking what you plan to tow before renting? Many Rental places won't allow Fiero on that equipment. When Tow the "right way" then weight balance is "Wrong" & unsafe. Many think tow backward because of weight balance etc but that's illegal in many states.
+
Tow vehicle is likely over GVWR too causing more problems. Most small trucks can't handle 3000+ lb draw weight.
If you lied to U-haul... U-haul can sue you on top getting sued by others if also had a wreck.
had a car the same weight and everything as a fiero selected that was also rwd. they won't actually rent any trailer for a car over 20 years old in my area so a 2006 toyota was the choice. Also did not tow it home with the ranger. just got it to a parking lot to break a hitch pin off of the tacoma. also the ranger didn't care until it was litterally pouring rain so bad that the tacoma in 4wd was hydroplaning on brand new tires at 40. so we stopped at the lot to wait that out and to just use the tacoma
[our Tow Vehicle maybe fine pulling 3000+ pounds... Stopping maybe a different story. Many vehicles w/ Factory installed Class 3 & 4 receivers expect the load to have their own brakes. More so w/ Draw Weight > 1000 to 2000 lb. The dolly is 750lb per Uhaul.com on top of Car weight & whatever crap in the car.
Again Towing anything Backward is Illegal in many places. In other states maybe legal but need more light & reflectors other then lights on the dolly.
Is part of why most Rental Op's won't rent a dolly to tow Fiero & some others.
Even most Towing Co's won't tow backward even way back in the day when only get sling hooks because can't trust the front end w/ steering wheel tied/locked down. Many only tow backward only to get access to front to tow. IE to move a vehicle out of a garage or driveway then rehook to actually tow. forward has Positive Castor.
Even when you jack the rear to tow, the fronts Still have Negative Caster then multiply that to hundreds to thousands of times towing w/ front wheels down. Worse towing on any Highway
Before anyone says... "but s-wheel locks w/ I-key out..." That is only Anti Theft. Not for locking to tow w/ front wheel down. Have the key out for this can, often will, wreck the column. The Pin & Plate is steel but the Pin is in Zinc, Aluminum or worse soft materiel.
fun fact. uhaul will rent you a dolly for a fiero if you aren't in my area. they just tell you to not tow an automatic that way. also I wouldn't even consider going over 60 with a dolly in general unless unloaded. plus this may be a surprise considering my history on this forum but I'm not an idiot. the ranger was a tow package 2wd 5 speed rated for 5k pounds at the factory and had upgraded brakes installed PLUS THE UHUAL STUFF HAS ITS OWN BRAKES. I forget what style it is but I was told it's like a...jam style? the front slides back and forth a bit and shoves a hydraulic cylinder back and forth which makes backing a bit difficult on wet ground
[This message has been edited by cartercarbaficionado (edited 07-01-2024).]
now back onto topic. does anyone know if the 1987 compressor is on any other gm so I can grab one that isn't locked up. also missing my low side line for some reason but I have the orifice tube. I got a drier out of a 86 but it didn't have the right fittings I think? or I'm missing the adapter. I do have the engine spinning currently which is a huge win considering the only Corrosion is in the engine bay and us quite bad. my air cleaner and housing crumbled and my throttle body was pretty dusty. (yes it was Corrosion where the rubber was) but so far other than the normal batter trst rust and the spindles on all 4 corners having surface rust this thing is very very clean. also do they sell a clutch master and slave rebuild kit? I touched my pedal like an idiot and it's stuck down. also boy does the new seat feel better. free indy 500 seat instead of a rat chewed gt one
Originally posted by theogre: Your Tow Vehicle maybe fine pulling 3000+ pounds... Stopping maybe a different story. Many vehicles w/ Factory installed Class 3 & 4 receivers expect the load to have their own brakes. More so w/ Draw Weight > 1000 to 2000 lb. The dolly is 750lb per Uhaul.com on top of Car weight & whatever crap in the car.
Again Towing anything Backward is Illegal in many places. In other states maybe legal but need more light & reflectors other then lights on the dolly.
I'm honestly not sure. I ordered the trailer online, and it asked me what I was towing, and what I was towing it with. I was totally honest. It wouldn't let me tow it with the Ford Explorer because of legal reasons from the Firestone tire issue... (even though my Explorer is two generations newer than the one that had those tires). So I towed it with my Ford Edge. When I went to pick it up, the guy asked me the same questions, and didn't give me any issues. I usually tie a rope around the steering wheel. In this case, I THINK I did that as well (using a tow strap) to keep it from moving. I can't remember though.
Can I just say... the more I look at the "2m" body style, the more it grows on me. My Fiero is an 87 SE/V6 (which I've had since high school like 3 decades ago). But man... there's just something about that simplicity in design.
quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:
now back onto topic. does anyone know if the 1987 compressor is on any other gm so I can grab one that isn't locked up. also missing my low side line for some reason but I have the orifice tube. I got a drier out of a 86 but it didn't have the right fittings I think? or I'm missing the adapter.
also do they sell a clutch master and slave rebuild kit? I touched my pedal like an idiot and it's stuck down. also boy does the new seat feel better. free indy 500 seat instead of a rat chewed gt one
Rodney Dickman sells an updated clutch master cyl if you're interested. It's a little pricey, but supposed to be fantastic. Rock Auto sells rebuild kits for both... but honestly, you might just be better off buying a new one, they're actually pretty inexpensive for the clutch master cyl: https://www.rockauto.com/en...master+cylinder,1996
It's a little pricey, but you can be sure that he totally engineered everything to work!
As for the compressor, I assume you're looking for the V5 (serpentine belt-driven). You can probably look at any late 1980s GM vehicle with an Iron Duke and it should be in there. It seems like the Iron Duke really needed the extra horsepower that compressor freed up by the improved design. I don't really understand it, but will look it up at some point... something about being variable and three separate chambers, versus the older style compressor which either runs 100% when on, or off... as the only two options.
Scratch that... you're looking for an HR6... I forgot this was a GT. I think almost any mid-80s GM car should have the compressor you need. The exception would be some of the rear wheel drive vehicles like trucks and such. Some of them still had those old boat anchors that looked like a small rotary engine with a belt attached to it! Haha....
[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 07-01-2024).]
i towed my 84 an hour and a half away using a U Haul. U haul wudnt rent me a tow dolly for a Fiero, but instead insisted that i use a 4 wheel trailer (auto transport). They checked out my tow vehicle a 2007 Ford F150 carefully. Only then wud they rent me the trailer. i backed the Fiero on the trailer and there was too much weight on the front of the trailer/hitch. Went with it anyway and had no problems.
Years ago, i towed that very 84 with a dolly trailer that i made from tubing, channel and knuckles from a Chevy car. i drove her on to the dolly forward. Rear wheels on the ground. i towed her from California to Montreal using that rig. The tow vehicle was an S10 longbed 2.8 V6 5 speed. No trailer brakes, no problems.
Jus thot you mite wanna kno
------------------ Astronomy says we will find a coded signal from outer space. Then we'll KNOW that life exists there, for coded signals aren't by chance.
Biology says there are coded genetic signals in every cell, but we KNOW that no intelligence created life.
I'm the original owner of a white ' 84 2M4 purchased Dec 10, 1983 from Pontiac. Always garaged, no rust, 3800SC, 4-wheel drifts are fun!
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: Rodney Dickman sells an updated clutch master cyl if you're interested. It's a little pricey, but supposed to be fantastic. Rock Auto sells rebuild kits for both... but honestly, you might just be better off buying a new one, they're actually pretty inexpensive for the clutch master cyl: https://www.rockauto.com/en...master+cylinder,1996
It's a little pricey, but you can be sure that he totally engineered everything to work!
As for the compressor, I assume you're looking for the V5 (serpentine belt-driven). You can probably look at any late 1980s GM vehicle with an Iron Duke and it should be in there. It seems like the Iron Duke really needed the extra horsepower that compressor freed up by the improved design. I don't really understand it, but will look it up at some point... something about being variable and three separate chambers, versus the older style compressor which either runs 100% when on, or off... as the only two options.
Scratch that... you're looking for an HR6... I forgot this was a GT. I think almost any mid-80s GM car should have the compressor you need. The exception would be some of the rear wheel drive vehicles like trucks and such. Some of them still had those old boat anchors that looked like a small rotary engine with a belt attached to it! Haha....
I think I have a 2001 grand prix compressor sitting around but I'm not sure if fits. ideally I fix thus for as cheap as possible while being damn sure it's safe
got the decklid fitted (not shown here lol.) after making a new hinge pin on a buddies lathe. old one snapped somehow I guess. making good progress with the hydraulic systems and they are fully functional so far and rebuild kits for the calipers will be on hand soon. column repair and electrical is next along with the fuel system getting cleaned also doing a temp egr delete since my solenoids rubber case crumbled to dust with the filter. I did remove the seat and replaced it with a free indy 500 seat I found since the old one reeked of dead rat. if anyone has any gt parts (or v6 emission parts or the air box) they are willing to mail over for free lemme know otherwise I'm gonna refurb what I can and make the rest safe enough
so did they put Isuzu transmissions behind 2.8's? mine has the Isuzu style linkage and the cables on the side so I'm thinking its a Isuzu. it was a getrag at some point according to the vin so I'm thinking it had an engine swap around 2000 which would make the stuck engine and weird electric behavior make sense
so did they put Isuzu transmissions behind 2.8's? mine has the Isuzu style linkage and the cables on the side so I'm thinking its a Isuzu. it was a getrag at some point according to the vin so I'm thinking it had an engine swap around 2000 which would make the stuck engine and weird electric behavior make sense
No, the Isuzu 5-Speed was only ever put behind the Iron Duke. The Getrag was the only other 5-Speed in the Fiero, and the only 5-Speed installed behind the V6. The only other manual transmission was the 4-Speed Muncie, and that was used in all of 84, only V6s in 85, and some V6s in 86.
why are the plugs so much easier to do on a gt? also are 4 cylinder and 6 cylinders the same ecu just chipped different? I'm asking because I have a spare 85 ecu and my 87 one might be dead from moisture exposure. I'm gonna have to Don a biohazard suit to check since a rat had decided to die ontop of it. still not sure if my starter is dead or if I'm having some more power issues. I have no headlight motors but power to the lights themselves but no interior lights or power to my windows or mirrors. I do still have power to my rally gauges and sometimes my turn signal lights on the dash come to life. I haven't found any major wiring issues other than a big wire to the ecu having a chunk out of its insulation (getting fixed as we speak) also first time dealing with this on a 84-87 fiero but the passenger sides brakes front and rear don't actually seem to go back enough to not drag aggressively( almost locked up and the front is completely locked up) it's not a collapsed line or anything as I've checked and replaced them with a good set of used ones I took off my 84. I'm debating on sanding the pads down a bit as a stop gap solution which I know is very dumb but everything has checked out so far so either my pistons are stuck out somehow (unlikely as I rebuild a set and ordered another set of rebuilt ones and they both look the same as what's on the car) or the 14 year old pads are a little too thick
so did they put Isuzu transmissions behind 2.8's? mine has the Isuzu style linkage and the cables on the side so I'm thinking its a Isuzu. it was a getrag at some point according to the vin so I'm thinking it had an engine swap around 2000 which would make the stuck engine and weird electric behavior make sense
The factory never did, but it can be done. I did it so someone else may have also. " ... and the cables on the side ..." ( ?? ) "... weird electric behavior ..." ( ?? )
It seems like you somehow end up with a lot of "weird" issues. You confuse us.
The factory never did, but it can be done. I did it so someone else may have also. " ... and the cables on the side ..." ( ?? ) "... weird electric behavior ..." ( ?? )
It seems like you somehow end up with a lot of "weird" issues. You confuse us.
the cables on the side is referring to how it was described on this website on the FAQ for the transmissions. the electric issues are described in full detail at least twice in this thread. and yeah because I can't afford a nice fiero. so I get the cheap ones with untraceable issues
the cables on the side is referring to how it was described on this website on the FAQ for the transmissions. the electric issues are described in full detail at least twice in this thread. and yeah because I can't afford a nice fiero. so I get the cheap ones with untraceable issues
The "nice" Fiero's are the ones that don't get to do what Fiero's are supposed to do. Your the rescuer. That's important. Fiero's are kit cars, that's why stuff gets screwed up. That's how I grew up as a poor car guy.
In technical communication, one needs to be clearly understood.
ok 3 days later of 100 degree days with high humidity and I got the little bugger out. as it turns out my engine wasn't stuck and actually spins very well and has some decent compression. I did fix my original select cable by using brasso to break down the rust and then using motorcycle cable lube and it moves easier than the other cable so should be fine. did discover a neat little crack on my shifter which is why it was so vague. thinking about getting it welded since I doubt my 84 shifter fits properly. also still dealing with power issues but it's slowly coming back to life and should be done in a week or so. no idea where my headlight box is though but I'm sure my motors are messed up
An Isuzu gearbox has it's shifter cables running in parallel. On a 2.8 the air filter can and the rubber air horn must be rotated to clear the cables. The Getrag cables come from 2 different angles. One from below and one from above. It's a simpler mechanism on the Getrag.
An Isuzu gearbox has it's shifter cables running in parallel. On a 2.8 the air filter can and the rubber air horn must be rotated to clear the cables. The Getrag cables come from 2 different angles. One from below and one from above. It's a simpler mechanism on the Getrag.
that shouldn't matter in my case since my air can and rubber air horn have basically disintegrated and somehow is the only rust on the whole car.. just my luck I guess lol. also it is a getrag it just had someone's custom work done to the cables and mounts that I undid
Nice, it's getting there. The 4-Speed shiffter SHOULD work... from what I understand, a lot of people swap them into the later years because they're shorter? Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Nice, it's getting there. The 4-Speed shiffter SHOULD work... from what I understand, a lot of people swap them into the later years because they're shorter? Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Man, that spark plug looks crazy though.
only the shift handle part, not the whole shifter assembly, and only the 84 model year is shorter, all others are roughly the same
finally got a small break from high Temps and high humidity to go back to repairing this harness and the door and so far I'm almost done not sure if the window motor wires are supposed to be Sautered but they are now.
seems like the whole thing fits actually. not sure why
Well yeah, the whole assembly "fits" they aren't going to change the mounting points on the space frame for the different shifters, it won't feel right though, or even work at all well, as the reverse lockout will now apply for 1st/2nd gear, as that is built into the shifter on the 4 speed, definitely not what you want. The reverse lights will also be on in 1st/2nd, and not in reverse.
Well yeah, the whole assembly "fits" they aren't going to change the mounting points on the space frame for the different shifters, it won't feel right though, or even work at all well, as the reverse lockout will now apply for 1st/2nd gear, as that is built into the shifter on the 4 speed, definitely not what you want. The reverse lights will also be on in 1st/2nd, and not in reverse.
I'm fairly sure it will work fine since the getrag has the reverse light switch in it. also there is litterally no reverse lockout on either of my shifters so.... hopefully its in the transmission
I'm fairly sure it will work fine since the getrag has the reverse light switch in it. also there is litterally no reverse lockout on either of my shifters so.... hopefully its in the transmission
The "reverse lock out" isn't a true lock out, it's similar to the parts on a door that roll along and hold it into 2 open positions, it takes a great deal of effort (so much that the only 2 times I took it to a garage, they couldn't figure out how to get it into reverse) to get it into the first of the 3 "columns" if you will, that has reverse on the 4 speed, but 1st/2nd an any 5 speed applicable. I think the "lockout" can be removed, if so, then it will work fine, if not, it'll be the worst experience ever, if it works at all.
The "reverse lock out" isn't a true lock out, it's similar to the parts on a door that roll along and hold it into 2 open positions, it takes a great deal of effort (so much that the only 2 times I took it to a garage, they couldn't figure out how to get it into reverse) to get it into the first of the 3 "columns" if you will, that has reverse on the 4 speed, but 1st/2nd an any 5 speed applicable. I think the "lockout" can be removed, if so, then it will work fine, if not, it'll be the worst experience ever, if it works at all.
personally I've punched through the lockout finding first on a 86 v6 4 speed with an 84 shifter more times than I care ti count. on the other hand I'm probably gonna break the bolts so I'm able to just swap the entire shift arm and pivot over right?
personally I've punched through the lockout finding first on a 86 v6 4 speed with an 84 shifter more times than I care ti count. on the other hand I'm probably gonna break the bolts so I'm able to just swap the entire shift arm and pivot over right?
Some lockouts are stiffer than others. The shift arm is entirely universal, there are different sizes and shapes, but they all work on every shifter. I don't know what you mean by "break the bolts" and the pivot. The only thing that is swappable is the outer part of the shift pivot (one piece with the shifter arm) that rotates on the shifter assembly.
Some lockouts are stiffer than others. The shift arm is entirely universal, there are different sizes and shapes, but they all work on every shifter. I don't know what you mean by "break the bolts" and the pivot. The only thing that is swappable is the outer part of the shift pivot (one piece with the shifter arm) that rotates on the shifter assembly.
yeah that part is fine on my shifter. I need the lower shifter arm for the side to side movement since it broke. this why I have the 84 shifter
I think my gas miiiiight be bad. only like 21 years old lol. gas tank is surprisingly not rusty so I just gotta find out what will dissolve the chunks of varnished gas. oh and maybe figure out why the pump doesn't work. I'm assuming it was either dead 20 years ago or just really stuck now
[This message has been edited by cartercarbaficionado (edited 07-18-2024).]
I think my gas miiiiight be bad. only like 21 years old lol. gas tank is surprisingly not rusty so I just gotta find out what will dissolve the chunks of varnished gas. oh and maybe figure out why the pump doesn't work. I'm assuming it was either dead 20 years ago or just really stuck now
Lacquer thinner is my go to nasty cleaner. Swish it around for a while. Just don't keep sticking your nose in the hole to see how it's working.
