I bought a 88 i4 notchback, about 6 months ago I think. When I went to see it I was told it didn't run, so I replaced the spark plugs and it started right up first try in a couple of cranks and didn't exactly idle well, but under power it felt great. Drove it home 3 hours, (I know not the smartest decision but I don't have a way to haul a car), interstate speeds, didn't give me a single issue.
It did throw code 42 and 45. I fixed 42 with a new fuel filter (pump was new so I knew it probably wasn't the pump), 45 with a MAP sensor I think. It now throws no codes cept 12 like it's supposed to. I also did try to start the car while the code reader was in it because the booklet said to do that to wipe the codes. Learned the hard way I was not supposed to, I don't know if it damaged the ecm or something but I haven't noticed any particular issues tied to my stupidity.
However, it has developed some new issues. It will never start on the first turn of the key, it'll just keep cranking, but it will start on the first crank on the 2nd turn of the key dependent of how long you cranked it on the 1st turn.
It has a much nicer idle then it had when I first got it, but still has a rough idle at roughly 1.5 on start, little below 1 when it's warmed up. Sputters, pops, and vibrates are pretty consistent however almost nonexistent when it hasn't been started long enough for the engine to cool down to enviroment temperatures. I believe I also hear an occasional misfire, but this is only when it's idling, if I give it gas I've never heard it stutter, pop, a backfire, and the engine no longer vibrates as much.
I've replaced the coil packs, icm, 02 sensor, MAP sensor, TPS (this was a pure hail mary), spark plugs, and spark plug wires.
At this point the only thing I can think of is a vacuum leak, but I have failed to locate one and it will be going to a mechanic Tuesday to find one. It has to have one. I don't believe it's just a vacuum leak tho, that wouldn't make sense for the starting issue right? It has to be electrical. It didn't do it when I first bought it.
Forgot to mention another problem, if it has been started and shut down after awhile and you wait about 10 minutes to restart it the tachometer will shoot up to 1.5 then down to a .5, back to 1.5, back down to a .5. Then it will either die after doing this for sometime or resume idling like normal (I guess abnormal, but it's this cars normal atm.). If it does die then it will never run, until you manually idle the engine with the accelerator, then you can actually hear and see the exact moment it remembers how to idle.
I don't know if I accidently damaged the ecm or something, but I don't really know what else to check.
I also want to clarify all those problems except me having to manually idle it arrived prior to me trying to start it with the code reader in it.
Ever since I ran it with the reader in it, I have to manually idle it if I start it from about anywhere from 5 to 20 minutes depending on how warm it is. Like I said before after it cools down enough it'll start and idle like normal. It seems to have something to do with temperature, but I don't know what would cause the engine to Rev from near 1.5 to a .5 and just keep doing it til it idles normally or stalls.
Or I screwed something up.
Oh I also, have only had it stall on me once, but this was before I even started working on it. Ever since I began changing parts out it has never stalled on me and sounds great when running.
[This message has been edited by Gizmo0816 (edited 07-10-2024).]
I bought a 88 i4 notchback, about 6 months ago I think. When I went to see it I was told it didn't run, so I replaced the spark plugs and it started right up first try in a couple of cranks and didn't exactly idle well, but under power it felt great. Drove it home 3 hours, (I know not the smartest decision but I don't have a way to haul a car), interstate speeds, didn't give me a single issue.
It did throw code 42 and 45. I fixed 42 with a new fuel filter (pump was new so I knew it probably wasn't the pump), 45 with a MAP sensor I think. It now throws no codes cept 12 like it's supposed to. I also did try to start the car while the code reader was in it because the booklet said to do that to wipe the codes. Learned the hard way I was not supposed to, I don't know if it damaged the ecm or something but I haven't noticed any particular issues tied to my stupidity.
However, it has developed some new issues. It will never start on the first turn of the key, it'll just keep cranking, but it will start on the first crank on the 2nd turn of the key dependent of how long you cranked it on the 1st turn.
It has a much nicer idle then it had when I first got it, but still has a rough idle at roughly 1.5 on start, little below 1 when it's warmed up. Sputters, pops, and vibrates are pretty consistent however almost nonexistent when it hasn't been started long enough for the engine to cool down to enviroment temperatures. I believe I also hear an occasional misfire, but this is only when it's idling, if I give it gas I've never heard it stutter, pop, a backfire, and the engine no longer vibrates as much.
I've replaced the coil packs, icm, 02 sensor, MAP sensor, TPS (this was a pure hail mary), spark plugs, and spark plug wires.
At this point the only thing I can think of is a vacuum leak, but I have failed to locate one and it will be going to a mechanic Tuesday to find one. It has to have one. I don't believe it's just a vacuum leak tho, that wouldn't make sense for the starting issue right? It has to be electrical. It didn't do it when I first bought it.
Forgot to mention another problem, if it has been started and shut down after awhile and you wait about 10 minutes to restart it the tachometer will shoot up to 1.5 then down to a .5, back to 1.5, back down to a .5. Then it will either die after doing this for sometime or resume idling like normal (I guess abnormal, but it's this cars normal atm.). If it does die then it will never run, until you manually idle the engine with the accelerator, then you can actually hear and see the exact moment it remembers how to idle.
I don't know if I accidently damaged the ecm or something, but I don't really know what else to check.
ecm is designed for what you did. check sensors and such or find out why the fuel injection is acting up. on the starting issue my 88 v6 does something similar where it takes 3 or 4 seconds of cranking to kick over. I haven't figured out why yet either since I replaced a dead pickup in my distributor with a new one (equivalent to your icm/crank sensor). honestly I would pull the plugs out and clean them and only do one at a timeto avoid mixing them up.
ecm is designed for what you did. check sensors and such or find out why the fuel injection is acting up. on the starting issue my 88 v6 does something similar where it takes 3 or 4 seconds of cranking to kick over. I haven't figured out why yet either since I replaced a dead pickup in my distributor with a new one (equivalent to your icm/crank sensor). honestly I would pull the plugs out and clean them and only do one at a timeto avoid mixing them up.
You just reminded me of the other thing I replaced that I couldn't remember. I already replaced the fuel injector. I figured If something was up with the fuel filter it'd be smart to replace the fuel injector. I'll clean up the plugs, they are a little orange from the fuel cleaner I ran through it. So maybe. Thanks.
[This message has been edited by Gizmo0816 (edited 07-10-2024).]
ecm is designed for what you did. check sensors and such or find out why the fuel injection is acting up. on the starting issue my 88 v6 does something similar where it takes 3 or 4 seconds of cranking to kick over. I haven't figured out why yet either since I replaced a dead pickup in my distributor with a new one (equivalent to your icm/crank sensor). honestly I would pull the plugs out and clean them and only do one at a timeto avoid mixing them up.
Oh and also when I started the car with the reader in it was not happy, engine sounded like crap and stalled out. Is that normal?
Please stop comparing 87+ Dukes to other engines. This is completely different engine that only shares very few parts w/ other Dukes & Nothing for V6.
DIS Dukes ECM & PIM/ICM when "cold" can take Longer to crank, up to ~ 10-15 sec, on first try but will start. Try turn the key 1-2 sec, stop, then try again often starts faster then 1 long crank.
If still have way long crank....
Does F-pump running when have long cranking? Turn key on but don't start then should run ~ 2 sec. If want/need to check fuel pressure,,, see https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/146121.html TBI Test Adaptor for Duke etc. GM spec 9-13PSI but should see 13 unless has pump or plumbing problems.
One "rule" is same for all OBD1 systems is Will Not turn On Fuel Injection unless first see signal from the ICM is Running first.
ECM doesn't see this for several reasons... 3 common... Any to All "Grounds" on engine block & frame are crap & need fixing/cleaning. ICM is missing the shield & causing problems to a fire. ECM is "Dead" but seems to work because crack solder joints etc "kill" just 1 section so can't see ICM, turn On the injection, etc but check light work normal or even ECM scanner can still work too.
Fix/clean all grounds then coat silicon or permatex green label brake grease. Can try tapping the ECM case by hand as can disturb crack joints might work but if does ECM is Dead. Save the PROM to use it w/ replacement ECM.
42 is a "problem" w/ ICM or wires/grounds to it or nothing wrong... Some time ECM give this "bogus" code w/ OE PROMs but can't get new PROM that GM updated the program to run the ECM. But again fix/clean all ground because that will do same.
45 is Not MAP. Is ECM see O2 "Pegged" & running Rich too long. This often Is Not the O2 but other problems like F'd F-return push F-pressure > 13PSI or Iffy MAT or ECT sensors.
Expect to spend several hours read the cave because most "books" & a lot more have wrong data for 87+ Dukes.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
ecm is designed for what you did. check sensors and such or find out why the fuel injection is acting up. on the starting issue my 88 v6 does something similar where it takes 3 or 4 seconds of cranking to kick over. I haven't figured out why yet either since I replaced a dead pickup in my distributor with a new one (equivalent to your icm/crank sensor). honestly I would pull the plugs out and clean them and only do one at a timeto avoid mixing them up.
Cleaned the spark plugs and it started in the first turn of the key in about 6 cranks or 7 cranks. Hasn't done that since I got it, so I guess that was one of the issues. Thanks. I'll see if it continues to do that. Still crappy idle tho, but probably a vacuum leak.
Please stop comparing 87+ Dukes to other engines. This is completely different engine that only shares very few parts w/ other Dukes & Nothing for V6.
DIS Dukes ECM & PIM/ICM when "cold" can take Longer to crank, up to ~ 10-15 sec, on first try but will start. Try turn the key 1-2 sec, stop, then try again often starts faster then 1 long crank.
If still have way long crank....
Does F-pump running when have long cranking? Turn key on but don't start then should run ~ 2 sec. If want/need to check fuel pressure,,, see https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/146121.html TBI Test Adaptor for Duke etc. GM spec 9-13PSI but should see 13 unless has pump or plumbing problems.
One "rule" is same for all OBD1 systems is Will Not turn On Fuel Injection unless first see signal from the ICM is Running first.
ECM doesn't see this for several reasons... 3 common... Any to All "Grounds" on engine block & frame are crap & need fixing/cleaning. ICM is missing the shield & causing problems to a fire. ECM is "Dead" but seems to work because crack solder joints etc "kill" just 1 section so can't see ICM, turn On the injection, etc but check light work normal or even ECM scanner can still work too.
Fix/clean all grounds then coat silicon or permatex green label brake grease. Can try tapping the ECM case by hand as can disturb crack joints might work but if does ECM is Dead. Save the PROM to use it w/ replacement ECM.
42 is a "problem" w/ ICM or wires/grounds to it or nothing wrong... Some time ECM give this "bogus" code w/ OE PROMs but can't get new PROM that GM updated the program to run the ECM. But again fix/clean all ground because that will do same.
45 is Not MAP. Is ECM see O2 "Pegged" & running Rich too long. This often Is Not the O2 but other problems like F'd F-return push F-pressure > 13PSI or Iffy MAT or ECT sensors.
Expect to spend several hours read the cave because most "books" & a lot more have wrong data for 87+ Dukes.
Oh I remembered what I did to clear 45, cylinder 4 was misfiring due to a bad wire. The internals were coming undone on the spark plug boot. 42 hasn't been thrown since I replaced the fuel filter, because my booklet said it could be a problem with the est, fuel pump, or something else. I decided to change the fuel filter since i knew it wasn't the fuel pump it was the cheapest to start with and wouldn't hurt to change anyway. I think you might be right with a bogus code being thrown, can I also ask where those grounds would be?
I wasn't aware that the starting was actually normal then, this car is 16 years older than me so I don't know a whole lot about it or any other vehicle from its time.
So I guess that isn't an issue because it does exactly what you said it does. I haven't cranked it that long on the first turn, but it does almost immediately start when I turned it the 2nd time 1 or 2 cranks on average.
I can't remember if the engine did fire or not I know it didn't sound right, but I think I'm gas lighting myself into believing that it ran with the reader in. However I was wrong about one thing in my original post, I never had to manually idle it before I started it with the reader in it, that started after I tried to start the car with the reader in it. So one problem did start after that. Is this just coincidence or did something possibly happen?
[This message has been edited by Gizmo0816 (edited 07-10-2024).]
If By "reader" means jump ALDL A & B... nothing should be damage. ECM may try shutting off IAC port because think trying to set main idle stop. See cave idle stop.
ECM Scanner don't care but may keep Idle @ 1000RPM while connected because ECM is "running 2 threads" & isn't made for this. See cave, ECM section.
700 TBI can leak in several ways... Top 3... (See cave 700 TBI) Vac leak @ bottom where mounted &/or side ports. Vac/air leak when 2 TBI sections meet. Fuel Leak @ the regulator. Look w/ air cleaner cover off w/ engine running.
If have any or all of those, buy a "rebuild" kit w/ all soft parts including the reg diaphragm.
Cleaned the spark plugs and it started in the first turn of the key in about 6 cranks or 7 cranks. Hasn't done that since I got it, so I guess that was one of the issues. Thanks. I'll see if it continues to do that. Still crappy idle tho, but probably a vacuum leak.
I figured so. plugs ain't supposed to be orange and can foul up quickly but a good brake clean and if copper plugs are installed a little sandpaper can work wonders. for the vac leak spray at the throttle body around the linkage and where it meets the intake with brake or carb cleaner. do have a fire extinguisher or hose nearby just incase and try to not spray the cleaner with too much pressure
As mentioned you need to test fuel pressure. Ogre posted the fuel pressure specs.
You mentioned someone replaced the fuel pump, alot of people replace the pulsator with the supplied piece of hose to connect the pump to the sending unit. For some reason aftermarket pumps have a piece of un-proper non-submersible hose and it will deteriorate and split causing fuel pressure issues.
Put a fuel pressure gauge on it, with the engine running find the rubber return line on the right side over by the battery and with a pair of needle nose pliers BRIEFLY pinch it closed while watching the gauge. This will 'deadhead' the pump and force it to pump at max capacity. You should see around 30 PSI pressure. Again only do that briefly and see if the Fuel pressure gauge spikes. If it does, the pump and everything the tank is most likely ok, if it does not ( the pressure will most likely drop) then something is wrong inside the tank. The return line, not the pressure line.
[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 07-11-2024).]
If have any or all of those, buy a "rebuild" kit w/ all soft parts including the reg diaphragm.
For Gizmo0816, I highly recommend doing this. These TBI units have a bunch of gaskets, small and large, and they do tend to get "crusty" over the years. It's a good idea to order the rebuild kit (it's like $45 bucks) and completely disassemble it, spray it down with brake & parts cleaner, and then reassemble with all new gaskets. If you are going to keep this engine (it's a very decent engine, being an 88... e.g., balance shaft, DIS, roller cam, etc.), then I recommend replacing and / or having the injector professionally cleaned (I think they're also like $40 bucks on Rock Auto).
The only thing is... just make sure you've replaced the fuel filter first. You don't want to further gum up a cleaned / new injector.
[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 07-11-2024).]
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: For Gizmo0816, I highly recommend doing this. These TBI units have a bunch of gaskets, small and large, and they do tend to get "crusty" over the years. It's a good idea to order the rebuild kit (it's like $45 bucks) and completely disassemble it, spray it down with brake & parts cleaner, and then reassemble with all new gaskets. If you are going to keep this engine (it's a very decent engine, being an 88... e.g., balance shaft, DIS, roller cam, etc.), then I recommend replacing and / or having the injector professionally cleaned (I think they're also like $40 bucks on Rock Auto).
The only thing is... just make sure you've replaced the fuel filter first. You don't want to further gum up a cleaned / new injector.
Yeah I'll do this some gasket that I have seen on the car aren't in good shape so I'm only left to assume that the ones I can't see are just as bad.
I'll also get the stuff for the fuel pressure test. It already has a new fuel filter and injector, would I want to replace the injector with the old one so it isn't exposed to brake cleaner? Old one works well enough, just replaced it because I figured the filter wasn't any good.
If By "reader" means jump ALDL A & B... nothing should be damage. ECM may try shutting off IAC port because think trying to set main idle stop. See cave idle stop.
ECM Scanner don't care but may keep Idle @ 1000RPM while connected because ECM is "running 2 threads" & isn't made for this. See cave, ECM section.
700 TBI can leak in several ways... Top 3... (See cave 700 TBI) Vac leak @ bottom where mounted &/or side ports. Vac/air leak when 2 TBI sections meet. Fuel Leak @ the regulator. Look w/ air cleaner cover off w/ engine running.
If have any or all of those, buy a "rebuild" kit w/ all soft parts including the reg diaphragm.
Alright thanks, and it is like in the shape of an obd2 reader, but all it does is jump the pins. Just a little bit safer than a paperclip or a jump wire.
That makes me feel better tho that 2 people said it shouldn't harm anything. On other forums, not about fieros, they were saying all sorts of stuff.
Yeah I'll do this some gasket that I have seen on the car aren't in good shape so I'm only left to assume that the ones I can't see are just as bad.
I'll also get the stuff for the fuel pressure test. It already has a new fuel filter and injector, would I want to replace the injector with the old one so it isn't exposed to brake cleaner? Old one works well enough, just replaced it because I figured the filter wasn't any good.
Well, I would keep the old injector as a spare, but if you just bought a new injector... then you're fine. I don't expect that rebuilding the TBI unit will solve all your problems, but it will give you an opportunity to clean the entire thing (all the EGR gasses as well) and ensure that when it's rebuilt, it's running in top shape.
I didn't see above, but definitely get a service manual for your year. You can download them for free from a few places (not legal of course), but I prefer to have the book in my hand and be able to flip through it. You can get that from http://www.themotorbookstore.com. People laugh, but I also like to have the Haynes repair manual. Always rely on the specs in the service manual above the Haynes, but often times the Haynes will provide a different perspective / picture / diagram that's perhaps not done as well in the service manual.
Shameless plug, my daughter is also restoring her 85 Fiero 2m4 SE. Slightly older version of your engine (doesn't have DIS ignition), but a lot of the things still apply, and it might be of some help to you (particularly in some of the upgrades for the Iron Duke, etc.): https://www.youtube.com/@GenerationZGarage
Anyway, it's a really cool car. If you can get it running well, you'll have a ton of fun. It's not a racecar by any means, with the Iron Duke that is... but it's a really fun car that you can push hard when you've got that engine running well. I had (still have) a V6 version of that car (87 SE V6) and man... that was a blast when I was growing up. I drove that thing like crazy, and it was quick for its time too.
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: For Gizmo0816, I highly recommend doing this. These TBI units have a bunch of gaskets, small and large, and they do tend to get "crusty" over the years. It's a good idea to order the rebuild kit (it's like $45 bucks) and completely disassemble it, spray it down with brake & parts cleaner, and then reassemble with all new gaskets. If you are going to keep this engine (it's a very decent engine, being an 88... e.g., balance shaft, DIS, roller cam, etc.), then I recommend replacing and / or having the injector professionally cleaned (I think they're also like $40 bucks on Rock Auto).
The only thing is... just make sure you've replaced the fuel filter first. You don't want to further gum up a cleaned / new injector.
700 TBI has very little to rebuild & multec injector rarely goes bad or gets dirty needing "pro cleaning." If "dirty" & can't spray right then use "Top Tier" gas for a full up or three. Most big brands & many small brands are "Top Tier" so not hard to find... https://stationfinder.toptiergas.com/ This is Better & Safer then most Gas Additives. See also https://web.archive.org/web...rocave/fuelknock.htm
Again has all the soft parts including the reg diaphragm that often cost close to same $.
Unless the fuel carries big crap that F-pump hates to start w/... 700 often Won't Care about "dirt" because of design most "dirt" just passes thru it. The Injector has 2 screen to block the "dirt" trying going to that.
Often you Don't remove or rebuild some items unless have leaks or big dirt problems. Like the large "nuts" where fuel lines are anchored is pointless to remove from the TBI. The Vac ports on the sides often can ignore too. Just put fuel injection cleaner thru those.
Do Not use Carb Cleaner & some others as those can remove/attack anti-rust coatings on many TB/TBI metal parts.
Well, I would keep the old injector as a spare, but if you just bought a new injector... then you're fine. I don't expect that rebuilding the TBI unit will solve all your problems, but it will give you an opportunity to clean the entire thing (all the EGR gasses as well) and ensure that when it's rebuilt, it's running in top shape.
I didn't see above, but definitely get a service manual for your year. You can download them for free from a few places (not legal of course), but I prefer to have the book in my hand and be able to flip through it. You can get that from http://www.themotorbookstore.com. People laugh, but I also like to have the Haynes repair manual. Always rely on the specs in the service manual above the Haynes, but often times the Haynes will provide a different perspective / picture / diagram that's perhaps not done as well in the service manual.
Shameless plug, my daughter is also restoring her 85 Fiero 2m4 SE. Slightly older version of your engine (doesn't have DIS ignition), but a lot of the things still apply, and it might be of some help to you (particularly in some of the upgrades for the Iron Duke, etc.): https://www.youtube.com/@GenerationZGarage
Anyway, it's a really cool car. If you can get it running well, you'll have a ton of fun. It's not a racecar by any means, with the Iron Duke that is... but it's a really fun car that you can push hard when you've got that engine running well. I had (still have) a V6 version of that car (87 SE V6) and man... that was a blast when I was growing up. I drove that thing like crazy, and it was quick for its time too.
My grandpa found a service manual online and I actually got lucky and the car had a Haynes manual in it. They both proven to be helpful with the brakes and some other stuff. Minus the e brake, we are having a hell of a time on that. We'll get it tho.
I do have a rebuild kit coming, thanks for the advice on that I wouldn't have know they had em.
I'll admit I am driving it around tho, not much, bu I know I probably shouldn't til I get the idle sorted out. It does run and it runs well, just idling it doesn't. Also the manual idling thing is weird
Yeah tho I mean I'm already having fun with how many older dudes say, "I haven't see one of those since I was a kid!" Or "I thought those all caught on fire". Add a 84 goldwing in there and oh boy every time I stop for gas or where ever I always get some sort of comment.
I actually have seen that channel before, when I was trying to learn about the car. Hope she has an easy time fixing it up and gets it to where she wants it to be!
[QUOTE]Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: For Gizmo0816, I highly recommend doing this. These TBI units have a bunch of gaskets, small and large, and they do tend to get "crusty" over the years. It's a good idea to order the rebuild kit (it's like $45 bucks) and completely disassemble it, spray it down with brake & parts cleaner, and then reassemble with all new gaskets. If you are going to keep this engine (it's a very decent engine, being an 88... e.g., balance shaft, DIS, roller cam, etc.), then I recommend replacing and / or having the injector professionally cleaned (I think they're also like $40 bucks on Rock Auto).
The only thing is... just make sure you've replaced the fuel filter first. You don't want to further gum up a cleaned / new injector.
700 TBI has very little to rebuild & multec injector rarely goes bad or gets dirty needing "pro cleaning." If "dirty" & can't spray right then use "Top Tier" gas for a full up or three. Most big brands & many small brands are "Top Tier" so not hard to find... https://stationfinder.toptiergas.com/ This is Better & Safer then most Gas Additives. See also https://web.archive.org/web...rocave/fuelknock.htm
Again has all the soft parts including the reg diaphragm that often cost close to same $.
Unless the fuel carries big crap that F-pump hates to start w/... 700 often Won't Care about "dirt" because of design most "dirt" just passes thru it. The Injector has 2 screen to block the "dirt" trying going to that.
Often you Don't remove or rebuild some items unless have leaks or big dirt problems. Like the large "nuts" where fuel lines are anchored is pointless to remove from the TBI. The Vac ports on the sides often can ignore too. Just put fuel injection cleaner thru those.
Do Not use Carb Cleaner & some others as those can remove/attack anti-rust coatings on many TB/TBI metal parts.[/QUOTE]
I am certain it has some sorta leak somewhere and I don't mind replacing parts as it's a learning experience and isn't gonna hurt anything except my wallet, but I mean you pay to go to college so what's the difference in the end?
Good to know the tbi is a champ tho from the sounds of it.
I am certain it has some sorta leak somewhere and I don't mind replacing parts as it's a learning experience and isn't gonna hurt anything except my wallet, but I mean you pay to go to college so what's the difference in the end?
Good to know the tbi is a champ tho from the sounds of it.
I'm suprised you love this car that much. as for the ebrske pm your issues and I might have a few ideas having dealt with a few of problematic ones at this point
I'm suprised you love this car that much. as for the ebrske pm your issues and I might have a few ideas having dealt with a few of problematic ones at this point
We got the passenger side one working properly, but the drivers side isn't engaging enough to pull the lever enough to actually put pressure on the rotor. We were messing with the equalizer, but it doesn't seem to be doing anything to the drivers side. Tried reading the book and service manual, but both left me confused.
We got the passenger side one working properly, but the drivers side isn't engaging enough to pull the lever enough to actually put pressure on the rotor. We were messing with the equalizer, but it doesn't seem to be doing anything to the drivers side. Tried reading the book and service manual, but both left me confused.
oh yeah that lol. lube the cable and check that the caliper rubber around the lever is lubed properly. might also need a rebuild since they don't like sitting Also yes the book can be confusing but try to visualize it more than anything
As mentioned you need to test fuel pressure. Ogre posted the fuel pressure specs.
You mentioned someone replaced the fuel pump, alot of people replace the pulsator with the supplied piece of hose to connect the pump to the sending unit. For some reason aftermarket pumps have a piece of un-proper non-submersible hose and it will deteriorate and split causing fuel pressure issues.
So... what was the fuel pressure while the engine was running... and just as importantly, how quickly did the fuel pressure drop when the fuel pump stopped?
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-15-2024).]
So... what was the fuel pressure while the engine was running... and just as importantly, how quickly did the fuel pressure drop when the fuel pump stopped?
I had to order the adapter, I haven't tested it yet. It should be here Friday, I'll have the answer then.
Oh and I didn't realize how the bump feature worked my bad. I thought this thread would've gotten buried by time.
[This message has been edited by Gizmo0816 (edited 07-15-2024).]
oh yeah that lol. lube the cable and check that the caliper rubber around the lever is lubed properly. might also need a rebuild since they don't like sitting Also yes the book can be confusing but try to visualize it more than anything
You know what I think we forgot to grease the cable last time we tried. Whoops. I plan on doing a rebuild on all the calipers, I just want to get it running smoothly first and foremost.
You know what I think we forgot to grease the cable last time we tried. Whoops. I plan on doing a rebuild on all the calipers, I just want to get it running smoothly first and foremost.
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado: use graphite dry lube. it's the correct stuff
No. E-brake/P-brake Cables since 70's are mostly plastic liner in metal shells for outside jacket & hate nearly all lube including Dry Graphite powder.
So If the parking brake cables "need greasing" then the cables are Dead & need Replacing.
Example: If you have Factory cables or old cables w/ metal outer jackets often the jackets have "rotted" ends @ frame, caliper or both that make the cable to bind & no lube will help you. 1 way to check this is pull on the jacket & watch both ends. Often the jacket has rotten thru @ the ends but look ok until you pull the jacket & ends stay put. But ends may not rotten thru but rust can still cause binding.
New cables have the plastic on the cable instead inside of the jacket but still hate all lube. The new cables also have plastic on the outside to prevent rusting is likely require to meet current US EU etc rules. Problem w/ that is the plastic is often remove to crimp the ends like any wiring w/ crimp ends or the plastic just cracks & allows "water" to get in at that points. To help seal those areas, use thin coat of Silicon or Permatex Green Label Brake Grease. Those prevent "water" getting in but won't attack plastic.
Example: From my old cradle replace w/ P-cables attach because their "frozen" even after had new cables years before... (just had better cradle @ time the motor lost timing gear.) Both ends, the outer plastic cracked letting "water" in there. Result Rust binding enough so can't move the core cable even w/ pliers pulling on metal tip.
Ok so I just tested the fuel pressure, it's at a solid 10 while idling and after it turned off slowly lost pressure and seems to be sitting around 7 - 8. Took about around 10 seconds I'd say to drop.
[This message has been edited by Gizmo0816 (edited 07-19-2024).]
One comment I do have about your fuel pressure gauge though, is that when measuring fuel pressure of about 12psi max, I suspect that a gauge that measures up to 140psi is not going to be very accurate at those low pressures.
One comment I do have about your fuel pressure gauge though, is that when measuring fuel pressure of about 12psi max, I suspect that a gauge that measures up to 140psi is not going to be very accurate at those low pressures.
[/QUOTE] I can't seem to find any lower than 100 psi, but I just don't suspect fuel is the issue here. I still gotta do that rebuild, check all the grounds closely, I did a glance at 2 of em early they didn't seem corroded, and do that test theogre suggested with the ecm.
It runs strong and starts great when it doesn't die shortly after its very specific scenario which does seem to be heat related.
[This message has been edited by Gizmo0816 (edited 07-19-2024).]
I can't seem to find any lower than 100 psi, but I just don't suspect fuel is the issue here.
It's too bad you couldn't have gotten a gauge as pictured in that same thread. It would've helped to absolutely rule out any possible fuel pressure issue. My first Fiero was an '87 duke. I hated that engine (which is basically the same engine as the '88 without the balance shafts and weird oil filter arrangement).
It's too bad you couldn't have gotten a gauge as pictured in that same thread. It would've helped to absolutely rule out any possible fuel pressure issue. My first Fiero was an '87 duke. I hated that engine (which is basically the same engine as the '88 without the balance shafts and weird oil filter arrangement).
I'll try to get my mitts on one. I might be able to get one today, just don't know if it'll work.
