I have a 2.8L V6 Formula, I have been having problems where it will start up, it sounds like the engine is not idling correctly (going in and out). When I drive it around for about 10 minutes and then put it in park, the engine will just die and I can not start it back up after like 30 minutes. The tachometer reads 0 most of the time when driving, when I drive it and apply the break the tach will read an actual value. I took it to a shop and they found a vacuum leak where someone before me removed the EGR tube without properly plugging it up. The shop installed a brand new TPS sensor as well and properly plugged the EGR hole under the manifold (i hear no whistling now). The shop checked the fuel injectors and they were all in working order and they checked the fuel pressure (good fuel pressure). Engine sounds better but still has the same issues.
If anyone has any suggestions on what to look for/check I would greatly appreciate it.
Some things I have checked/done: - Used TunerPro to check values and messages (no faults/alarm and no messages popped up). -Person before me reprogrammed the chip (i am guessing that because I have no EGR and yet no alarms for it). - Checked voltage at ALDL for the fuel pump (it read 11-12V) and I can hear the fuel pump when turning the key. - I installed a new fuel filter. - A new O2 sensor, MAT sensor, and a TPS sensor. - Engine has been timed (checked by two shops). - New spark plugs, cables, ignition coil, tach filter, entire distributor (this was installed by a shop and checked by another shop).
I would replace the ECM for a stock, non-modified one. You don't reprogram a chip just to get rid of an error. So if you get no errors, and no code 12 if you jumper the ALDL connector (and the bulb is of course not removed and still working), then either the ECM is shot or the EPROM was reprogrammed for accommodating some weird modifications to the engine which are probably no longer there.
I agree, first step is to replace the ECM or at least the Eprom with a Factory one.
After that it sounds like a classical ignition module issue.
Is there a good way to test the ICM with a multimeter? Mine is brand new, but sometimes new does not mean its good. After that more than likely I will buy a new computer. Because the previous owner did a EGR delete I will still have to reprogram the chip to ignore the EGR and the EGR solenoid. But at least I can finally see what my faults are.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
New spark plugs, cables, ignition coil, tach filter, entire distributor (this was installed by a shop and checked by another shop).
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Originally posted by Wacko1Jacko12:
Is there a good way to test the ICM with a multimeter? Mine is brand new, but sometimes new does not mean its good.
Unless the ICM is ACDelco, it's probably crap. The no-name ICMs don't seem to be up to the task.
If you get the ICM tested, make sure the test is done over and over. It needs to get good and hot, as the ICM gets very hot while in operation on the engine, and it's heat that kills 'em... especially the no-name ones.
The Icm appears to be not the issue, I went to O’Reillys and advance auto parts near me, and they said they cannot test them. So I decided to buy another new ICM. I Installed it today and still have problems.
I think my plan now is figuring out if the ECM is bad, I cannot see any codes because my SES light does not come on. However i can connect with usb to ALDL using the software tunerpro and go online with it. Maybe the wiring or bulb is bad to the SES light?
If the SES bulb doesn't illuminate when the ignition key is turned to Run (not Start), then you need to at least check the bulb.
You are the man Patrick! Found that half of my bulbs were missing. I put in a bulb and now my SES light is on. Error code is 22 (TPS low voltage). The shop replaced this sensor, maybe the connector is bad or the sensor is not set right?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Patrick in This thread:
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I checked the TPS sensor and I am reading 0.02V going to ECM, In the video it says to bend the tps to get it at the correct voltage. I noticed that when I took the TPS off, the lever behind it appears to be tapered with based on the marks. I feel like I am having to bend the TPS sensor lever oddly alot. Could I also adjust this as well or is this a bad idea? I rather ask someone than be sorry.
I got the sensor set right, I didn’t touch what was in the photo at all. Rewatched the video and it made sense. Thank you for the video. It is reading the correct voltage right now.
I got the sensor set right, I didn’t touch what was in the photo at all. Rewatched the video and it made sense. Thank you for the video. It is reading the correct voltage right now.
Be aware that the ECM "sees" the throttle open a 1.25 volts. The closer you are to that number, the more "instant" response will be when the throttle opens. Of course we're talking about milliseconds, so this is just information about the TPS closed throttle setting. I set mine at 1 volt.
