Due to an overheating problem last winter, I hadn't driven my Fiero for months since I was waiting for dryer and warmer weather to work on my car. I started driving it again last month (found what the probable cause was for the overheating) and noticed that now, when I brake, the car pulls to the left. Previously, I had no problems with braking at all (since I had replaced the rotors and pads not too long prior).
I haven't checked anything at all yet, since I wanted to make a checklist of things to check first. So what could be causing this? Worn brake pads? Rusted rotors? Anything else?
When I've suspected brake problems with my Fiero or Subie, after I've driven the vehicle for a short while and used the brakes a few times, I'll quickly touch each rotor with a knuckle (don't use a fingertip!) and see if I notice a difference in temperature. Both front rotors should feel about the same temperature (as well as both rear rotors). Yes, an infrared thermometer would certainly work as well, but I'm old-school. On my Subie I discovered a sticking caliper using this method. That rotor was HOT.
Due to an overheating problem last winter, I hadn't driven my Fiero for months since I was waiting for dryer and warmer weather to work on my car. I started driving it again last month (found what the probable cause was for the overheating) and noticed that now, when I brake, the car pulls to the left. Previously, I had no problems with braking at all (since I had replaced the rotors and pads not too long prior).
I haven't checked anything at all yet, since I wanted to make a checklist of things to check first. So what could be causing this? Worn brake pads? Rusted rotors? Anything else?
I have steel brake lines btw.
finally encountered the same issue on my 84 so I can be helpful here. check your slide pins for sticking and probably clean and regressed them anyway (I'm aware it's more of a slide bushing but still.) and if there's any rust that will cause a lot of extra friction on that side. now unfortunately you probably care about your brake rotors slightly more than I care about my oem ones so you wouldn't want to wire wheel the rust off. it's pretty much just time to inspect the suspension and brakes to find anything uneven on the right side or anything causing a lack of braking force for that side as well. since the left side is clearly outstopping that side
Carters right. Sometimes pads can hang up on the pins. But that usually happens as the pads start wearing out. Sounds like caliper is hanging up. What year? If 88 the sliders should be smooth and well greased.
One odd problem that I had with my Fiero a few years ago; When crossing SF bay on the San Mateo bridge it started pulling to one side when braking- but when I got on the throttle hard it would turn the opposite direction....
I was inspecting the suspension- noticed that one of the struts appeared to be leaking some fluid- I had converted to coil-overs when I installed the 88 rear subframe/suspension on my 85 SE V6....Apparently, while cutting the original spring perch off that strut, the guy at Arraut cut too deep- and the strut lost pressure and then was losing fluid.
Check your struts- when I removed the damaged strut there was NO PRESSURE- collapse the strut and it would not re-extend.
Maybe a caliper is F'd & isn't doing same pressure at other side so car pulls....
May not be braking problem but suspension problem. Example: iffy C-arm or cradle bushing may hold a load on alignment machine to mash the gas but can't take the opposite load while braking.
& while you feel thru S-wheel as pulls.... May not be the front that have problems.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
You said the car sat for awhile. Was it outside? Pistons or sliders can get stuck and rotors rust. Generally brakes may need a refreshment after sitting for a while.
Yes, since I have no garage, the car is always outside. I had replaced the rotors and pads about two years ago, cleaned and re-greased the sliders. I just received new brake pads so if weather permits, I'll check the sliders and replace the pads if necessary tomorrow.
Originally posted by Cliff Pennock: Yes, since I have no garage, the car is always outside. I had replaced the rotors and pads about two years ago, cleaned and re-greased the sliders. I just received new brake pads so if weather permits, I'll check the sliders and replace the pads if necessary tomorrow.
What type of grease there? Because wrong lube ruins brake & other "rubber" parts can cause jamming pistons, sliders, & other parts.
These Only get silicone or brake grease like permatex green label brake grease.
Yes, since I have no garage, the car is always outside. I had replaced the rotors and pads about two years ago, cleaned and re-greased the sliders. I just received new brake pads so if weather permits, I'll check the sliders and replace the pads if necessary tomorrow.
It sounds like the left caliper is sticking.
I did the same thing on my Ford Explorer... replaced all the pads, everything. It was fine for a bit, but then it really started to drive weird.
Apparently, I had used the wrong grease. I used the exact same grease for the sliders (etc.) as I use to fill ball joints with a grease gun. All of this had caked up, burned off, etc. I ended up buying a bottle (with brush) of actual break grease, and re-did all four brake calipers on the Explorer (replaced the pads anyway). I removed each sliding bolt... cleaned up the caliper, re-greased everything with the proper grease... and it's amazing how much better it handles. No pulling, nothing... totally smooth... and the car accelerates more quickly too (apparently the pads were dragging).
You said the car sat for awhile. Was it outside? Pistons or sliders can get stuck and rotors rust. Generally brakes may need a refreshment after sitting for a while.
I should define what I mean by "refreshment". Even a brand new brake job left outside, unused will degrade over time. They don't get hot and then cold. No expansion and contraction to keep "tight" parts free. Nothing to keep the rust from forming on the rotors and maybe more on one side than the other. Yes proper brake grease is important as is brake fluid. The grease, if its the proper stuff will most likely be OK because it's pretty well sealed. If the sliders slide freely there OK but do take a carful look. The brake fluid will be absorbing moisture and with no heat to help drive it off, it will happen faster. Old brake fluid causes internal rust. Most likely yours hasn't caused damaged yet but it's good habit is to keep it fresh and dry.
Brake "refreshment" is simply going through the rebuild process minus the new parts. You will need new brake fluid so sucking it out of the reservoir will give you room to retract all the caliper pistons. If the rotors are too rusted for sandpaper, visit your local auto machine shop.
Yellow lives outside also. I've had to refresh his brakes a couple of times.
On my Subie I discovered a sticking caliper using this method. That rotor was HOT.
