I searched and read, so I'll get to my question not knowing yet what the problem is.

86 Gt 15K miles, is running High Mileage oil worth a try if it's not the pan gasket ?

Thanks

Have you checked the distributor O-ring? Many Fiero owners have been fooled over the years thinking their oil pan was leaking... when oil was actually coming from the base of the distributor (it's a high oil pressure area) and running down the block.

Wow , thanks I will look..

quote Originally posted by hunter29: You are the man Patrick , save me once again. Yes it looks wet, so how difficult ? Got a link by chance please? Like the best link for this, otherwise I will find something.. Also since I have to pull the distributor should I replace it with a new one ? If so Cardone I hear is good, does it have the new pickup ?

There is no point replacing the distributor unless there's something wrong with the one you have. It's not like changing out an alternator. The gear on your distributor will wear into the one on the cam... but technically, the cam and the distributor gear will take wear, and that'll result in increased clearance, which offsets your timing and other things. If your distributor works fine and your engine runs well, then just replace the O-ring.

Make sure you label your plugs when you take them off... or just remove the distributor cap and leave it connected to the plugs when you pull the distributor.

I agree with Todd... no point replacing the distributor unless you suspect something's wrong with it. While it's out, you could perhaps reduce the end play of the shaft by using shims at the gear end.

The most important thing to mention though, is do not replace the O-ring with a regular rubber one. It will get rock hard due to the heat, and leak. Get a high temperature O-ring from Rodney.

If you have any difficulties with the static timing, you can consult my write-up Here.

Very well, thanks so much guys !!!

IMHO

When removing the V6 distributor to replace the O-ring; it is the perfect time to inspect and service other areas if needed....

GM Part Numbers
10477565 - O-Ring, distributor base-to-manifold
10469668 - Screws, ICM (2) {Thread Size: M3.5-0.6 X 19mm}
10497450 - Shaft, main distributor
10482829 – Module, Ignition Control
10495089 - Coil, pick up

Distributor Cap with Brass Contacts
Rotor

And YES - Lube the new distributor O-Ring with engine oil

BTW - I have a V6 Distributor / Full Service "write-up" if you need it........

------------------
Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT
Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles

Thanks for the part numbers..

Here's a good thread - The better Viton Distributor O-ring

Thanks Patrick

BTW

GM 10477565 O-Ring IS "The better Viton Distributor O-ring" and it is the 'tan' colored material which is listed in that thread as ACDELCO Part # 10477565

GM GENUINE 10477565

------------------
Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT
Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles

quote Originally posted by Vintage-Nut:

Something I noticed when my daughter disassembled her Iron Duke distributor, but the distributor shaft had a spiral groove going up the shaft. Best we could figure, this was to help naturally drive oil up the distributor shaft (or create a vacuum which would suck it up through the ducting past the bushings) for lubrication. It's been a long time since I've disassembled a Fiero V6 distributor, so I don't know they had them also... but I noticed your replacement shaft doesn't have that. Did the original V6 distributor have this as well? I assume GM wouldn't issue something intentionally worse if they didn't think it would matter; however, I question if longevity is a concern in mind for them with replacement parts (since the assumption is to keep the old car running a few more miles, so to speak... rather than the thought of a car being built to last another vehicle lifetime).

[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 08-13-2024).]

quote 82-T/A: It's been a long time since I've disassembled a Fiero V6 distributor / I noticed your {GM / ACDelco} replacement shaft doesn't have {spiral groove going up the shaft}. Did the original V6 distributor have this {no spiral groove} as well?

YES - My original V6 distributor main shaft and the GM replacement shown above were identical and lacking any spiral groove.....

quote Originally posted by Vintage-Nut: YES - My original V6 distributor main shaft and the GM replacement shown above were identical and lacking any spiral groove.....

RGR, thanks!

Ok so I took a look preparing to do the O ring, Definitely oil under the distributor, However when checking to see if my timing mark is still on the timing gauge I noticed it was wet with oil as well as the (Flywheel ? )

So another leak elsewhere ? or can the distributor oil reach that area ?

thanks

quote hunter29: Definitely oil under the distributor...

Then replace the O-ring and worry about other oil leaks after....

Remove the Distributor from the Engine:

NOTE: Follow the MARK steps below to ensure the correct timing when reinstalling the distributor!

Remove the spark wire from ignition coil to the distributor and all of the spark wires notice their positions.

Remove the distributor cap (7/32" nut driver). Unplug two connectors from the ignition coil. Remove the ignition coil & shield (13mm socket)

Unplug two connectors from the ignition control module. Remove the ICM screws (7/32" nut driver) Unplug the pick-up coil connector from the back of the ICM.

MARK: Rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing roughly 3:00 o’clock (to the plenum) and orient the protruding prong of the rotor to a fixed point on the plenum.
{Use tape with a 'sharpie' mark at the rotor prong)

Remove the bracket/bolt at the base of distributor (15mm socket) WITHOUT moving the distributor base on the manifold

MARK: Make alignment MARKS at the distributor base AND on the manifold (for timing)

Gradually remove the distributor by turning Counterclockwise AND pulling up taking NOTICE as the rotor turns when it STOP TURNING as it is released from the internal gear in the engine and MARK to orient the protruding prong of the rotor to a fixed point on the engine. This third reference point is the position of the rotor prong when reinstalling the distributor back into the engine.

Remove the distributor from engine.

------------------
Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT
Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles

Thanks for that, I'm hoping to do this tomorrow if the O ring shows up.

Should have arrived today.

Hi Guys, back to square one. Where can oil leak just sitting , I see drops forming on the oil pan, isn't all the oil in the pan and below the gasket line when its just sitting. this is still leaking after a week of not driving, I would think it would stop by then..

[This message has been edited by hunter29 (edited 09-08-2024).]

Oil can certainly run down slowly over time from leaky valve cover gaskets.

Hum.. I checked the passenger front side, I'll have to take a closer look at the drivers side, that's where it's dripping from.

Maybe I'll get lucky.

Thanks Patrick

quote Originally posted by hunter29: Hum.. I checked the passenger front side, I'll have to take a closer look at the drivers side, that's where it's dripping from. Maybe I'll get lucky. Thanks Patrick

send a picture of the leak. our 88 had a mystery oil leak we ended up fixing but hope it ain't what ours was.

What was it ?

quote Originally posted by hunter29: What was it ?

2 things. leaking intake China walls (where Lower intake meets block) and the sensor by the pulleys was spraying oil onto the intake and it would pool and then slowly drip over until I replaced the 87 sensor with a 88 like it was supposed to be.
honestly though just clean everything and it should be easier to see exactly where it's new leak is

Thanks, I need to get it on a lift at this point, I looked at the front valve cover again and can't find anything.

The front of the block is clean too..

?????

quote Originally posted by hunter29: From above I looked at rear of the block, the top of the oil pan is all wet with oil, but nothing above it on the block. So getting closer...

If this were my vehicle I would probably get under it and spend a bit of time to wipe all of the oil off of the area where the pan meets the block and then go over it again with another rag until I was satisfied that I didn't see any areas of oil remaining, then take it for a short ride and upon returning home get back under it and reinspect for anything obvious. You may well need a new gasket rather than chasing other possibilities.

My motor was rebuilt and has less than 4000 miles on it and I've had to have the oil pan and trans pan gaskets replaced already.

Good luck - I hope you can find that leak!

Yeah been doing that, it's getting worse, the oil was all over the bottom of the trans by the drain plug. Was never that bad.

I think?? It may be coming from the U part of the pan on the trans side.

Will clean it again and see. I don't really want to deal with this until next year if I can.

Another five weeks and it gets parked for winter..

Thanks for your input..

quote Originally posted by hunter29: Yeah been doing that, it's getting worse, the oil was all over the bottom of the trans by the drain plug. Was never that bad. I think?? It may be coming from the U part of the pan on the trans side. Will clean it again and see. I don't really want to deal with this until next year if I can. Another five weeks and it gets parked for winter.. Thanks for your input..

My Fiero-owning mechanic had to do the oil pan gasket twice, as apparently there were two different blocks for the 2.5 - one has a deeper cutout than the other around the area you mentioned, and the oil pan gasket is a four piece gasket set that comes with a piece for that deeper cutout. He used the extra piece and it leaked so he had to tear it all back apart and that's when he discovered that my block does NOT have the cutout - so that extra piece didn't seat properly in the block. My block (in that area) only gets RTV and does not require the extra "U" shaped piece that comes in the gasket set.

Good luck .. just keep dumping oil in it if need be. You'll be fine until next year despite the leak provided it's not gushing.

I may have the same thing, I can see a sloppy RTV job in that U area.

Hey do you think some Great Stuff would work.... LOL.....