Does anyone have experience with a CODE 41 using the '7730 ECM ? I'm running DIS with the DR-145 ICM.
I've swapped the ICM multiple times, the ECM once, and the crank sensor.
I've checked continuity between the timing control output on pin 8 of the 32 pin ECM connector and the connector 3 pint B on the ICM and it checked good. https://easyautodiagnostics...crank-sensor?start=1
I am at a loss. My next step is to reflash the EPROM. This is a possibility since it happened after I burned new code. According to this list it could be a memcal error: https://www.slideshare.net/...s-list-pdf/250729747
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 09-11-2024).]
Per the Code 41 docs in the N1A$T definition, it seems this has to do with resistors that determine the fueling method not matching what's defined in my .bin file. Nothing has changed, however there are some signs of rust on my adapter so I'm just ordering new parts.
Apparently the adapter is from Red Devil. My old one was from Moates.
I used a 7730 years ago to run my Northstar but after difficulties switched to a 1227165 ECM with a memcal replacement board from PCM Hacking from Australia. It’s a generation older ECM than the 7730 but with the RAM memory adaptor it is a more powerful setup. You can read and write directly to the ECM though the ALDL port, even running live, all just with TunerPro Live. Fuel and timing charts extend to 7500 rpm too so there no adder charts to deal with, and you can have it set up for 2 fuels, or two tunes, with the installation of a selector switch. Do a search on Pennocks here and you’ll find a few threads of its use. Hope you find this useful.
------------------ Daviero - 88 N* 5spdGT
[This message has been edited by Daviero (edited 09-22-2024).]
Thanks for the info. I will keep that in mind for future swaps.
Looking at my adapter, there's some build up on the pins. I think that may be causing the issue. I could probably just clean it. I probably bought all this hardware in 2009 so it's old...and getting crusty I guess.
Red Devil River didn't print a shipping label until last night. :/ I've had the spare memcal since last week now from a different ebay vendor.
I don't want to risk using this new memcal with the old adapter to avoid the old adapter causing an electrical issue with it.
I tried nAst1 years ago but switched to a different ecm as I could not get good results. This code has not been supported since 2017. This flag should be able to turned off in the flags section if it is not causing any issues.
This is despicable at this point. I paid on the 16th. Asked for an update. Still no message. Just a shipping label created.
Lou, I don't know if you're aware of this, but unfortunately phonedawgz (Red Devil River) has a history of non-communication... as reported Here and Here. It's a shame that this type of issue continues to crop up with him on occasion.
I think it's a legit code. The timing is not being advanced.
I've replaced everything I can replace. Tomorrow, I am going to check continuity on the 2 wires that go from the ICM to the crank sensor on the advice of La Fiera.
Lou, I don't know if you're aware of this, but unfortunately phonedawgz (Red Devil River) has a history of non-communication... as reported Here and Here. It's a shame that this type of issue continues to crop up with him on occasion.
Tomorrow, I am going to check continuity on the 2 wires that go from the ICM to the crank sensor on the advice of La Fiera. They should be a twisted pair or have a third wire that is grounded on one end. Is your memcal from a v6?
Tomorrow, I am going to check continuity on the 2 wires that go from the ICM to the crank sensor on the advice of La Fiera. They should be a twisted pair or have a third wire that is grounded on one end. Is your memcal from a v6?
It's a twisted pair. The connector on the ICM side is a 3 wire with 1 wire missing. Yes, my memcal is from a V6.
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 10-07-2024).]
I am using the expensive ICM. So I assume it was not the issue... However, I've had 3 or 4 bad ICM's now...
But why?
My stock battery gauge is reading 16+ volts. I'm starting to believe that perhaps I am over-volting the ICMs and one thing or another is internally failing after a week or so of use.
Hopefully I can get a warranty replacement tomorrow that works [temporarily] and can race on Saturday. I'll replace the alternator later...
I find the voltage issue reading 20% higher may explain why my rpm gauge and oil pressure generally read 20% higher...same with my temp gauge... I'd imagine whatever circuitry that produces a 5v signal expecing 13.2v may convert a 16+v signal to 6+ volts...
I'm having an engine ground that I had go to the subframe be moved to the battery instead. That seems to be when the problem started. Also getting a coolant leak fixed and trying to determine the part # for the front QA-1 coilovers...
