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Shifting Issue/Clutch problem. by thebvandersnatch
Started on: 10-23-2024 11:01 PM
Replies: 7 (98 views)
Last post by: Patrick on 10-24-2024 02:57 PM
thebvandersnatch
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Report this Post10-23-2024 11:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for thebvandersnatchSend a Private Message to thebvandersnatchEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hey guys, I have a 1986 GT 2.8 4spd Muncie with 56,000 miles. Starting about a month ago my clutch pedal started to have little to no resistance on first start up of the day and stays that way until the car has been driven for a bit, but I can't shift while the car is running but can shift just fine after turning the car off. Also if you try to put the car in reverse while the car is running it makes a very loud grinding sound if you try to actually put it in reverse. I have already tried shifting into another gear then going back and it doesn't change anything. The only way around it is to let my car roll backwards or have the car off after shifting into reverse then turn the car back on and go, then turn the car off again, put it in 1st, then drive off. Bottom line is, I'm not sure what is causing me to not be able to shift. It just doesn't want to go in gear. Like I said, after getting going and driving for about 15 mins it's like it fixes itself just a little, it still has a little trouble wanting to go into gear.

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[This message has been edited by thebvandersnatch (edited 10-23-2024).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post10-24-2024 02:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

This is a common issue which has been discussed here 54,359 times in the last 25 years. All relevant threads are still accessible.

If the gears can be shifted when the engine isn't running, it's probably either air in the hydraulics, or a bent pedal, or both.

The slave needs to move 1-1/8" to disengage the clutch.

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Frenchrafe
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Report this Post10-24-2024 02:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for FrenchrafeSend a Private Message to FrenchrafeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Patrick, stop scaring off the newbies! :D

For "thebvandersnatch", you probably have hydraulic master or slave on it's way out? Try a full clutch bleed. Check for leaks at the slave cylinder on the gearbox. Check for leaks at le the master cylinder?
My experience would tend towards the slave cylinder, given what you said.
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thebvandersnatch
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Report this Post10-24-2024 07:11 AM Click Here to See the Profile for thebvandersnatchSend a Private Message to thebvandersnatchEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thank you for the response. When you say bent clutch pedal do you mean the inner part up towards the dash or the actual pedal shaft to the pedal? I figured it might be the cylinder but was hoping not. Would it be better to try and vacuum out the line just in case? This mainly sucks because I just got my RT up on my lift to install headers and my Fiero was my daily until then haha
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Larryinkc
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Report this Post10-24-2024 08:17 AM Click Here to See the Profile for LarryinkcSend a Private Message to LarryinkcEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
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Vintage-Nut
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Report this Post10-24-2024 09:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Vintage-NutSend a Private Message to Vintage-NutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yes, start with the basics by bleeding the hydraulic system first.

To me, the 'best' tool to purge air from brake fluid is a handheld vacuum pump.

As a "bent clutch pedal" - this is the 'best' PFF photo:


Last is to replace the master and the slave.....
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cartercarbaficionado
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Report this Post10-24-2024 01:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cartercarbaficionadoSend a Private Message to cartercarbaficionadoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Vintage-Nut:

Yes, start with the basics by bleeding the hydraulic system first.

To me, the 'best' tool to purge air from brake fluid is a handheld vacuum pump.

As a "bent clutch pedal" - this is the 'best' PFF photo:


Last is to replace the master and the slave.....

fun fact. the clutch arm can actually be bent in more than just the u-bend. my 88 (and 87 currently) were both bent in the physical arm itself instead of the bend. so if the u-bend looks fine or you take it off and it's correct but it still won't sit above the brake pedal then consider that maybe you need to tweak the u-bend to compensate or spend 4 hours like I did heating and cooling and bending the arm to make it the right shape
Oh btw you can remove the pedal from the bracket without removing the whole assembly. do I recommend it? absolutely not. it breaks the plastic bushing ends which screws up the end play and requires the installation of 2 0.5mm thick plastic washers to fix
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Patrick
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Report this Post10-24-2024 02:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Frenchrafe:

Patrick, stop scaring off the newbies!


Rafe, nothing I said should scare off anyone. I'm just advising people who may be new here, and who are experiencing Fiero clutch disengagement issues for the first time, that this is not a rare phenomenon... and that there is a ton of helpful information already posted and easily accessed Here. Why wait for responses to a new thread when all the information one would ever need on this topic is available in a matter of seconds!

Hey, my very first post in this forum was about my own problems with lack of clutch disengagement, so I know all about how frustrating it can be. However, at that time... in 1999(!)... there wasn't much in the PFF archives about solutions.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-24-2024).]

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