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Another crank no start topic by Strix1988
Started on: 10-24-2024 07:06 PM
Replies: 4 (48 views)
Last post by: Vintage-Nut on 10-24-2024 08:56 PM
Strix1988
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Report this Post10-24-2024 07:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Strix1988Send a Private Message to Strix1988Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
1988 GT
All new electrical components
All new fuel components
Damn near every sensor replaced
All within a years time


I've been battling this for a few weeks now. I had the car running then one day it seemed the timing was slightly retarded. I got my timing light, went to TDC (biggest mark on the balancer) and went at it. Now the car won't run at all. It will crank, burble and burp, and not start. I've taken the distributor out, aligned it all with Cyl #1, tried a whole different distributor, 2 different coils, 2 different ICMs, nothing gives any improvement. Note: one of my Injector fuses was blown. It's been replaced. I believe that blown fuse had something to do with what 'broke'.

I've also tried to diagnose the fuel system. As stated at the top, every fuel component is new. Injectors, FPR, fuel pump and filter, all but the sending unit has been replaced. I can report there IS pressure at the valve on the fuel rail. As to how much? I don't know. I need to get a gauge and actually figure that out. I also do know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs are wet with gas, and yes I know about the WOT at startup trick to disable fuel to burn off what's in the cylinders. I can also confirm the pump is working as I hear it turn on everytime I turn the key to its ON position.

I have three possible suspicions; bad injector(s), faulty ECU (I have a spare) and another faulty coil. It mainly seems like a electrical problem.

I know I said a lot, but I've done my diligence to scour the internet and Pennocks for resolution so I'm throwing it all out there. To be honest, I just need it to run to my second location so I can get rid of this POS 2.8 that hasn't stopped giving me issues. 3.8sc is going in BUT in the meantime.. I'd like a running Fiero. Any advice, questions or comments are welcome.
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Patrick
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Report this Post10-24-2024 07:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Strix1988:

I had the car running then one day it seemed the timing was slightly retarded. I got my timing light, went to TDC (biggest mark on the balancer) and went at it. Now the car won't run at all.


From a very recent thread...

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick Here:

Sometimes it's not actually the ICM itself which is at fault. It could be the pickup coil, it could even be just poor contact at the various electrical connections/plugs.

Did you confirm that TDC of #1 actually lines up with 0° on the timing scale? The outer ring of old harmonic balancers are known to slip, throwing off the timing markers.

Did you apply proper heatsink compound (not grease) between the ICM and the base of the distributor?

Will the spark jump a 1/4" gap to ground outside of the combustion chamber?



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Strix1988
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Report this Post10-24-2024 07:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Strix1988Send a Private Message to Strix1988Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I can confirm the harmonic balancer has not spun. TDC is still in its factory spot.
My new distributor has the new pickup coil so I can rule that out. I also replaced that silicone that was pre applied and throw on some thermal paste. The engine hasn't run so heat can't be a factor for the new dizzy and it's components.
I will test for a 1/4 spark jump, but it's already evident that spark is an issue.
That exact thread you commented on previously, I reread the entire thing over and over again today.
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Patrick
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Report this Post10-24-2024 08:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Strix1988:

I will test for a 1/4 spark jump...


For anyone who may not know a simple way to do this...

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick Here:

Use a Phillips screwdriver with an insulated handle. Stick the end of the screwdriver into a spark plug lead, and hold the shaft of the screwdriver a quarter inch away from something metal on the engine. Make sure your hand is well away from the metal shaft of the screwdriver! Get someone to crank the engine while you're in position. (If you don't want the engine to start/run while doing this, remove the fuel pump fuse.)

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-25-2024).]

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Vintage-Nut
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Report this Post10-24-2024 08:56 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Vintage-NutSend a Private Message to Vintage-NutEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Strix1988:
I've taken the distributor out, aligned it all with Cyl #1, tried a whole different distributor, 2 different coils, 2 different ICMs, nothing gives any improvement.


And of course, you KNOW that the engine was at top dead center on the compression stroke of #1 cylinder at the balancer with the distributor rotor pointing at distributor terminal #1, right?

------------------
Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT
Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles

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