I rebuilt the cylinder heads without pulling the engine and to me, it's really not hard, but very time consuming.
Some well suggest removing the deck lid; I didn't....
If you can; start at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke of #1 cylinder with the distributor rotor pointing at distributor terminal #1. I suggest making alignment MARKS at the distributor base AND on the intake manifold for a timing point.
My 'best' advice is to pull the cylinder heads with the exhaust manifolds as one part; disconnect the Y-pipe and pull the cylinder heads with exhaust manifolds attached. After, remove the exhaust manifolds from the heads on the bench. Use the reverse to reinstall the heads on the block.
I just went through this this summer, in car head removal, didn't do a write up but it isn't too hard, had everything disassembled in one go, took longer to assemble because it was headless for a month and I forgot where all the pieces went haha, as stated, leave the exhaust manifolds on, they give a good handle, and if you are having trouble with the heads being stuck on/together to the lower intake (make sure nothing will be damaged by this, pushrods are removed, nothing's in/hanging on/over the engine etc.), crank the engine over, the compression will pop then loose, but won't throw them off or anything damaging, my 2 heads and lower intake were all stuck together to the block, doing that broke both heads loose, and the intake was left only stuck to the one head, removed as a unit, and separated later. Now's the time to do porting!
I would say, leave the back exhaust manifold log still attached to the (forward facing) cyl head. It's likely that if it's never been removed at this point, one or more of the bolts may break off, and it'll be easier to remove them with the head off, than trying to put your arm / hand back there.
leave the back exhaust manifold log still attached to the (forward facing) cyl head. It's likely that if it's never been removed at this point, one or more of the bolts may break off...
The other advantage of leaving the exhaust manifolds in place when removing both heads, is that it would be easier to properly apply a quality penetrating oil (not regular WD-40!) to hopefully help and prevent the exhaust manifold bolts from breaking off in the heads in the first place.
The other advantage of leaving the exhaust manifolds in place when removing both heads, is that it would be easier to properly apply a quality penetrating oil (not regular WD-40!) to hopefully help and prevent the exhaust manifold bolts from breaking off in the heads in the first place.
richard in nc: take lots of pictures first. some of my pictures saved me.
Big Point - take lots of pictures through the process; you never know the unforeseen ‘crises’ of Life's little emergencies and interrupt your work.......
I still have the photos of my process which I {and richard } used to remember the steps......
I've seen guys remove the cylinder heads without taking the engine down but one guy I know actually tilted the engine cradle down to free up more space. The job is a lot of work but it can be done.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I've seen guys remove the cylinder heads without taking the engine down but one guy I know actually tilted the engine cradle down to free up more space.
That's the method I used to generate more working room when I had to drill out a couple of broken exhaust manifold bolts from the forward head of my '86 GT. Even with the added room to maneuver, it was a b!tch of a job. If I had to do it over again, I think I'd remove the head(s).
