I have a 1988 Fiero GT and there is a clunking noise coming from the front end when going over bumps. I put the front end in the air and all the suspension components seem to be in good shape with no play as well as the wheel bearings. When I check for any play at the front wheels left to right, there is about an 1/8" of play, but instead of coming from worn suspension parts it is coming from the steering rack itself. If I hang onto the rod coming from the steering rack on both sides, I can feel the rod go into the steering rack and back out with no flexing on other components or movement on the opposite wheel. I tried to see if I could adjust the steering rack, but what looks like a nut or cap on top will not move and neither will the adjustment nut that needs the special tool.
I tried to see if I could adjust the steering rack, but what looks like a nut or cap on top will not move and neither will the adjustment nut that needs the special tool.
The outer lock nut needs to be loosened before the adjustment nut can be turned. Adjustment instructions are scattered throughout the forum.
The best/easiest way to access the adjustment nut is to remove the front tub. If you do, make sure to remove the two rivets holding a front brake line in place against the tub.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-18-2024).]
The problem certainly could be related to the rack adjustment, but are you sure it isn't worn inner tie rods? A couple months ago I replaced the right side inner tie rod on my '88 GT due to some endl play, and because I was installing Rodney's brass bushing. Now I'm planning on changing the driver side inner tie rod because I have play on the left side only that is exactly what you describe.
This work is on the list of Fiero stuff I plan to do over my Thanksgiving weekend. But swapping inner tie rod ends isn't very difficult or time consuming. It's actually pretty easy if you have a proper inner tie rod tool at your disposal. I used a loaner from AutoZone and will do so again.
The outer lock nut needs to be loosened before the adjustment nut can be turned. Adjustment instructions are scattered throughout the forum.
The best/easiest way to access the adjustment nut is to remove the front tub. If you do, make sure to remove the two rivets holding a front brake line in place against the tub.
That top nut will not break free. To me it almost feels like one of those caps they put on to protect the actual nut. I was afraid to put too much force on it not knowing if I it was an actual nut. Steering feels fine except at full turn in either direction or at highway speeds where it feels darty.
The problem certainly could be related to the rack adjustment, but are you sure it isn't worn inner tie rods? A couple months ago I replaced the right side inner tie rod on my '88 GT due to some endl play, and because I was installing Rodney's brass bushing. Now I'm planning on changing the driver side inner tie rod because I have play on the left side only that is exactly what you describe.
This work is on the list of Fiero stuff I plan to do over my Thanksgiving weekend. But swapping inner tie rod ends isn't very difficult or time consuming. It's actually pretty easy if you have a proper inner tie rod tool at your disposal. I used a loaner from AutoZone and will do so again.
It feels, and looks like all the play is inside the dust boot for the steering rack.
That top nut will not break free. To me it almost feels like one of those caps they put on to protect the actual nut. I was afraid to put too much force on it not knowing if I it was an actual nut.
I don't think you're following what I posted. Read it again!
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
The outer lock nut needs to be loosened before the adjustment nut can be turned.
Check this page if you're still unsure of what I'm describing.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 11-18-2024).]
Check this page if you're still unsure of what I'm describing.
On my rack the very top of the nut looks the same, but the part underneath where it shows the special tool is totally different on mine, the tool would not fit.
On my rack the very top of the nut looks the same, but the part underneath where it shows the special tool is totally different on mine, the tool would not fit.
The specialty tool is just for sissies. Real men use a hammer and a drift.
Factory spec for the preload adjuster on the 88 rack is 70- 90 degrees from full load. Which means tighten the plunger until it bottoms out, then loosen 70- 90 degrees.
While your in there, I'd pull the bottom pinion bearing cap and inspect that lower pinion bearing.
