Good afternoon, all - Just picked up my first Fiero after wanting one for the last million years... I remember in my single digits seeing one and loving it. With that being said, i drove 3.5 hours to this car and 3.5 hours back - just transferred the title today so it's officially mine.
The car is a 1986 SE, iron duke.
Here it is on it's maiden voyage from Bend Oregon to McMinnville.
I got it home and was able to use my air compressor blow out the engine bay, give it a nice vaccuum and a general look around to see what i need to do to get it back on the road. Most of the stuff i'm able to identify, but there are a few plugs and things i'm unsure of (i'm mainly a mk1 VW guy... had many sciroccos) which are a good bit different.
Thanks in advance!
This is the IAC valve, correct?
The plug next to the dipstick, i'm guessing is the oil pressure switch? and the one on the coolant neck is the coolant temp switch? (is this one for the computer, or for the dash/both?
i'm not sure what this guy is... it looks like a condenser on my old motorcycle, but i haven't a clue what this is
I'm guessing this is the reverse light switch, or the VSS?
Not sure what this is
Is it OK that this vacuum hose is plugged?
Map Sensor?
It looks like grounds are supposed to be here, but there is nothing - is that fine? noticed it by the headlights and a few other spots.
Does the fiero have a brake light switc on the MC? or is it down below?
What are these mysterious wires going to my back lights?! also, just down below is an open port.... what is that for? does that need a vacuum line?
the plug right next to my shifter cables with the red wires... what is that?
These here large bundle of wires and plugs... is this the C500 and C203?
This doesn't do a thing, i'm guessing this is to release the hood/trunk?
Windshield seal.... from what i was reading - this is just more or less a "beauty ring" and i can replace this?
some random photos.... car has almost 200k on it, but starts right up, but has some fun clutch issues that i need to work through seats are shot, carpet is dirty and it needs one hell of a bath....
#1. IAC #2. The sensor with 2 green wires (one wire is green w/ yellow tracer) is for the temp gage and the HOT warning lamp. The sensor in the coolant neck is the temperature signal to the ECU. #3. Tach filter (it's a capacitor) #4. Vehicle Speed Sensor. #5. Ignition coil plugs, also tachometer feed #6. The vacuum line is for the EGR - the solenoid for the valve is probably toast. #7. Correct, it is the MAP sensor #8. Those are actually cleats for a bra on the front of the car, maybe a Wolf or a LeBra #9. The brake warning light is on the brake bias valve below the master cylinder #10. The wires are for the trunk light, the port is vacuum for the Cruise Control vacuum canister.that appears to be missing. #11. That plug could be for the fuel pump and fuel gage. Is a three wire connector?
[This message has been edited by olejoedad (edited 11-19-2024).]
Your Fiero actually looks like it's pretty complete in the engine bay (just a little dirty), and in pretty decent shape.
Something that's kind of interesting is that your Fiero is a very uncommon model. The 1986 and 1987 SE Fieros basically came with the 86-87 Fiero GT interior, and available options, with the dual exhaust and the aero (notchback) body, but... you could pick a 4cyl or V6 engine. Yours has the 4 cyl, which is the lower horsepower one obviously, but you have all the other options like the interior and such... which is pretty cool!
It looks like grounds are supposed to be here, but there is nothing - is that fine?
No and no. With a non-functioning EGR valve, there's a chance that this engine will be running lean and/or "rattling". And grounds are there for a reason.
You've got at least one vacuum leak that I can see, on this tube...
CLICK FOR FULL SIZE
quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:
#6. The vacuum line is for the EGR - the solenoid for the valve is probably toast.
You've got at least one vacuum leak that I can see, on this tube...
CLICK FOR FULL SIZE
That vacuum port goes to the cruise control solenoid, right? You can see it's missing in the picture, and when I look at the turn stalk in the other picture, he doesn't have cruise. So this port would have just been blocked off, right ... or does it go to something else?
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]: That vacuum port goes to the cruise control solenoid, right? You can see it's missing in the picture, and when I look at the turn stalk in the other picture, he doesn't have cruise. So this port would have just been blocked off, right ... or does it go to something else?
Just blocked off with a little rubbery/waxy cap, my Fiero doesn't have cruise control and that's how it is.
[This message has been edited by 1985 Fiero GT (edited 11-19-2024).]
#12. Relay with blue and green wires is the A/C clutch, relay with orange and tan/white wires is fuel pump, not sure about the other relay. #13. The top connector assembly is the C500, below that is the Battery Junction Terminal #14. Rear deck lid popper. #15. Yes, it can be replaced, the new part will be wider than the original. #16. Nice interior, same as the interior in my 86 SE, except I had leather seats.
Hi there! I'll reply to the windscreen rubber strip: Your windscreen is glued in, like on most modern cars. The rubber/plastic strip is just to look nice. It doesn't seal anything, so just replace it. Normally, it's just a press fit into the gap between the glass and the windscreen bay. Cheers, and nice car by the way😉
------------------ "Turbo Slug" - '87 Fiero GT. 3800 turbo. - The fastest Fiero in France! @turboslugfiero https://youtu.be/hUzOAeyWLfM
#1. IAC #2. The sensor with 2 green wires (one wire is green w/ yellow tracer) is for the temp gage and the HOT warning lamp. The sensor in the coolant neck is the temperature signal to the ECU. #3. Tach filter (it's a capacitor) #4. Vehicle Speed Sensor. #5. Ignition coil plugs, also tachometer feed #6. The vacuum line is for the EGR - the solenoid for the valve is probably toast. #7. Correct, it is the MAP sensor #8. Those are actually cleats for a bra on the front of the car, maybe a Wolf or a LeBra #9. The brake warning light is on the brake bias valve below the master cylinder #10. The wires are for the trunk light, the port is vacuum for the Cruise Control vacuum canister.that appears to be missing. #11. That plug could be for the fuel pump and fuel gage. Is a three wire connector?
#11 yep! looks to be a three wire. I'm at work right now, but zooming in on the original photo i can see black red and brown with a white tracer it looks like. Thanks for listing all that out! it helps me an absolute ton!
quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:
Welcome!!!
Your Fiero actually looks like it's pretty complete in the engine bay (just a little dirty), and in pretty decent shape.
Something that's kind of interesting is that your Fiero is a very uncommon model. The 1986 and 1987 SE Fieros basically came with the 86-87 Fiero GT interior, and available options, with the dual exhaust and the aero (notchback) body, but... you could pick a 4cyl or V6 engine. Yours has the 4 cyl, which is the lower horsepower one obviously, but you have all the other options like the interior and such... which is pretty cool!
Oh that is super cool. I knew the nose was different, but wasn't sure if that was someone putting that on after finding a GT nose. knowing what you just said now, it all makes sense... There is someone not far from me that has the fastback clip for the rear i was going to grab, but knowing that this is an uncommon model, i'll keep it a notchback for sure. did just find this info surfing around the forum According to the "Fiero Spotter's Guide", in 1986, there were 4,031 4 cylinder SE's built. In the same year, there were 28,274 V6 SE's built
Apparently in 1986, people wanted to not cheap out getting the SE as i'm guessing it was a bit cheaper, but probably didn't make any sense to get the smaller engine. Pretty cool stuff!
And yes, it's extremely ditty - was sitting under a tarp for the last 20ish years (the last tags expired in 2001) - There was probably a good pound of dirt dried onto the control arm on the rear drivers side that was covering the tie rod ends and ball joints. which the surprising thing was, when i was done cleaning the dirt off (via some brushes and some old screwdrivers) the ball joints are still in great shape along with the tie rods.... that was shocking, but apparently the dirt in the desert kept it nice? odd stuff.
Once it stops raining for a few hours, it's got a hot date with a pressure washer! need to get under the car and throughout the engine bay.
quote
Originally posted by Patrick: No and no. With a non-functioning EGR valve, there's a chance that this engine will be running lean and/or "rattling". And grounds are there for a reason.
You've got at least one vacuum leak that I can see, on this tube...
No sir. No EGR solenoid on a duke.
Thanks for the info on that! i'll get that one in the back plugged and i'll start looking into the EGR routing so i can get all that hooked back up.
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I did just go through and place a huge order to get all the suspension and steering wear items replaced as well as give it a big tune up - about $400 worth of stuff.
I did bleed the clutch last night (the fluid was BLACK and nasty, couldn't see through it at all) and with the car running i have all gears again! So that is awesome...
Not being a pest at all, but could someone look at my second post? there are a few more things i want to make sure on what they are - making a little list for the garage so i can troubleshoot some little things that are wrong.
Rafe, isn't that strip put into place when the windshield is installed? Are you saying it can be replaced without the windshield being re-installed?
Yep. It's put into place when the windshield is installed. On replacements, the installer usually just puts additonal adhesive around the glass and pushes the trim into it. The trim has a t-shaped cross section. The stem goes into the gap and sticks into the adhesive. The cross piesce sets on the glass and the car body.
Factory moldings have a narrower cross piece. As the car ages the moldings shrink causoing the gap you are seeing. The Fiero Store has a molding with a wider cross piece that better covers the gap. I've used these and have also found other T-shaped moldings that work well.
TIP: You can pull the old molding off but you may damage the sealant / adhesive. If you do replace it, make sure you reseal the windshield with a urethane sealant around the glass. Push the new molding into the sealant before it cures and tape it into place until the sealant cures. MAKE SURE THE MOLDING IS WARM AND PLIABLE BEFORE INSTALLING IT. You can heat it by putting it into a balck garbage bag and putting it in the sun for a few hours. This should relax the molding. I find that using a heat gun set on low or a hair dryer set to high is good for working the tight corners of the windshield. Don't stretch the molding as you install it because as it cools, it will contract.
Yep. It's put into place when the windshield is installed. On replacements, the installer usually just puts additonal adhesive around the glass and pushes the trim into it. The trim has a t-shaped cross section. The stem goes into the gap and sticks into the adhesive. The cross piesce sets on the glass and the car body.
Factory moldings have a narrower cross piece. As the car ages the moldings shrink causoing the gap you are seeing. The Fiero Store has a molding with a wider cross piece that better covers the gap. I've used these and have also found other T-shaped moldings that work well.
TIP: You can pull the old molding off but you may damage the sealant / adhesive. If you do replace it, make sure you reseal the windshield with a urethane sealant around the glass. Push the new molding into the sealant before it cures and tape it into place until the sealant cures. MAKE SURE THE MOLDING IS WARM AND PLIABLE BEFORE INSTALLING IT. You can heat it by putting it into a balck garbage bag and putting it in the sun for a few hours. This should relax the molding. I find that using a heat gun set on low or a hair dryer set to high is good for working the tight corners of the windshield. Don't stretch the molding as you install it because as it cools, it will contract.
Thank you!! that helps me a ton - it's being put on the many lines of lists of things i need for this car
Question - as i can't find it. The Vacuum line that is plugged up here - where does it go? I thought it went to the EGR Valve, but that's just a small hose of tot he right side... i looked at my vacuum routing diagram and i'm not seeing that splitter anywhere.
Ok, i think i figured it out. As per the routing diagram on the hood, there is the tube coming off of the canister > that is supposed to run to the TBI, but isn't - it looks like this 3 way splitter isn't in the photo, so i should be taking that vacuum tube and connecting it to the TB in port B... i think?
Don't know anything about 4 cylinder Fieros, but, in June l took my neighbor's son on a trip up to Evergreen Aviation museum- in McMinnville- to see the largest aircraft ever built- Howard Hughes H-4 (Spruce goose)....and we hit a number of NPs and NMs along the way- Lava Beds, Newberry Caldera, Crater Lake and Lassen...which also made it necessary to drive thru Bend, OR....and between Bend and McMinnville, we passed thru......>>De-Troit<<...
Originally posted by Kameirocco: I got it home and was able to use my air compressor blow out the engine bay, give it a nice vaccuum and a general look around to see what i need to do to get it back on the road.
quote
Originally posted by Kameirocco: Also, i had a date with a pressure washer today.
Looks like your Fiero is in great shape for a 200K mile vehicle. Good luck with it. Clutch issues on Fieros are common. It could be anything from a bent clutch pedal arm, a bent fork or a defective clutch master or slave cylinder. Some thorough checking/testing can pinpoint the issue. I will end by saying what I usually say is that you purchased a 38 yr old antique automobile so expect to put some time and effort into it replacing old worn parts
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 11-25-2024).]
Don't be that guy who has wanted a Fiero for a million years and watched it burn up.
So i did turn on the heater to verify functionality when i first got it, sounds like so much crap is in there and the motor started whining - so that was on the plan as well, but i appreciate that heads up! i'll know to do it sooner before i actually drive the thing past my driveway
quote
Originally posted by Dennis LaGrua:
Looks like your Fiero is in great shape for a 200K mile vehicle. Good luck with it. Clutch issues on Fieros are common. It could be anything from a bent clutch pedal arm, a bent fork or a defective clutch master or slave cylinder. Some thorough checking/testing can pinpoint the issue. I will end by saying what I usually say is that you purchased a 38 yr old antique automobile so expect to put some time and effort into it replacing old worn parts
The clutch looks to be solved from just bleeding the system (the fluid in was pitch black) not sure if that'll completely solve the issue for the future, but for the time being i can start it and shift through all gears. Agreed on the good looks of the car! if it wasn't for the seats being so torn up, it would be very hard to tell (albeit, the engine is looking very greased up! ) I was under it a few days ago trying to pin point an oil leak and was greeted with this mess This is the THICKEST pile of dirt and grease i've ever seen built up on a car - and i've been under some disgusting cars in my day.
With that being said, i've surpassed the hundreds of dollars on replacement parts already - mostly for the suspension and brakes (still need to get both sets of inner tie rods) and bought a full gasket set, all new vacuum lines, filters, spark plugs, etc.
Plan right now is to drop the whole subframe/engine/tranny, split the transmission and engine and replace everything - pop the head off, check the valve guides and cylinder bores, get the head flattened at least.... give it a real good washing, swap the tranny fluid out, clean and paint everything and toss it back in.... at least for engine work, then to work on the interior - although i am tempted to just do a compression test and call it good for internals for now - my daughter is way too excited to go for a ride.
Purchased stuff so far.
SUSPENSION 2 front lower ball joint 2 front upper ball joint 2 rear lower ball joint 2 front upper CA bushings 2 front lower CA bushings 2 rear lower CA bushings 1 sway bar bushings 2 Sway bar links
STEERING 2 rear tie rod end 2 front tie rod end
ENGINE 1 oil filter 1 02 sensor 1 air filter 4 spark plugs 1 fuel filter 1 AC Belt 1 Alt / Water pump belt 1 Vacuum Line Set 1 Crankcase Breather Element 1 Intake Manifold Gasket 1 TBI Gasket 1 cylinder head gasket set 1 timing gasket set 1 poly cradle mounts 1 motor mount kit
BRAKES 1 Front Pads 1 rear pads 2 rear rotor 2 front rotor 1 Brake Fluid 2 front caliper rebuild 2 rear caliper rebuild Interior / Exterior (obviously more to come) 2 dash lights
No EGR solenoid on a duke.
