I have read where the 94-97 Camaro 3.4 is the preferred swap engine. Why is this? What makes it more difficult or expensive or whatever to use any other GM FWD 3.4, like from a Buick or Pontiac, etc?
The F-body 3.4 uses the same cylinder heads as the Fiero 2.8, therefore the F-body 3.4 is nearly a bolt-on swap into a V6 Fiero. Hence, it is commonly preferred.
Other engines (with different cylinder heads) of the GM 60°V6 family can be made to work, but they are less bolt-on.
It is the 93-95 F-body 3.4, not 94-97.
[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 11-19-2024).]
Another reason that many Fiero owners like the 3.4L P/R engine is because it is an easy bolt in swap but when installed the appearance is identical to the 2.8L. In states like California you won't pass inspections with a swap of different engine. The 3.4L looks stock and with a CAT it passes through. For other engine swaps you need to go though a process of getting your swap approved and it must be certified to meet CARB standards that isn't easy. .
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
A direct swap of a 3400sfi (the 3rd Gen 60* v6 3.4 found in many gm cars) is more complicated than the Firebird 3.4, for stock looks, you can reuse your old Fiero heads (bolt on), but unless you want to drive with 7-or-so:1 compression, pistons will also need to be swapped, as for the block itself, it requires a little clearanceing on the oil pan to make it work, similar work to the Firebird as that requires starter holes drilled, people choose the Firebird engine as it looks completely stock, and only needs one "modification" to work (starter holes). If you want low compression for a turbo or supercharger, and stock looks, the 3400 is stronger, and equally easy of a swap, but if you want normal compression, Firebird motor already has the right pistons. If you want higher compression, the pistons from the 3.4tdc (dohc engine) will work in any of the 3.4s, so you might as well start with the stronger 3400 if you have to change pistons anyhow.
To add to what everyone has said... it's mostly for getting more horsepower, while maintaining identical appearance.
It's not the BEST option though if you want more power. Personally, the 3400 series motors are awesome... and the cyl head technology is vastly improved.
The 3400 in the minivan produced 185 hp at 5200 rpm and 210 lb⋅ft of torque at 4000 rpm The 3.4L in the 93-95 F-body produced 160 hp at 4,600 rpm and 200 lb⋅ft at 3,600 rpm
Basic engine upgrades will get you 190hp with the 3.4 cast iron engine... port-matching, better exhaust manifolds, and a new camshaft... but you will be limited by the Fiero's intake unless you modify the throttle body neck (constricts air).
All those same upgrades to the 3400 motor though, from what I've read of others on here, allows you to get more power with less effort. I'm in the process of building a 3.4 V6/60 ... well, I have all the parts, I just haven't assembled any of it yet. But I'm going with higher compression 9.7:1 pistons, a hotter cam, and a bunch of other stuff. My goal is ~200hp. I just want a Fiero that runs mid-14s all day long without too much effort... so I can relive my teenage years, while not getting destroyed by electric Amazon delivery trucks.
EDIT: Are you having a hard time finding one? Just curious... I'm interested to know the background for your question. Are you considering an engine swap and just looking for options? There are a bunch of people here who have done a few different types of V6 engine swaps... they can probably tell you why they made the decision they did, versus something else.
[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 11-20-2024).]
To be honest, how the engine looks compared to the original I really couldn’t care less about. I want more power as the 2.8 is so anemic. I would like to actually build a 3.4 that is capable of handling some boost, nothing really crazy, maybe 12-15 pounds or so. Is this achievable with the 3.4? Is there an aftermarket out there for the 3.4? Thanks
To be honest, how the engine looks compared to the original I really couldn’t care less about. I want more power as the 2.8 is so anemic. I would like to actually build a 3.4 that is capable of handling some boost, nothing really crazy, maybe 12-15 pounds or so. Is this achievable with the 3.4? Is there an aftermarket out there for the 3.4? Thanks
If you don't care how the engine looks, do the 3400sfi, heads intake and all, instant 40ish hp gain with no mods. It will be hard to lower the compression for much boost, so you might be limited on that end, I'm no expert on compression ratio to safe boost. The 3400sfi had a stronger bottom end, roller valve train, and a much better head/intake design for more power potential over the 3.4 Firebird or the Fiero 2.8.
I lust after a 3900. (LZ9, LGD, or similar). Same basic architecture as the 2.8, but with 25 years of evolution. Will nearly bolt straight in. 240 HP right out of the box. (The Fiero heads and intake will not bolt on, but that's not an issue to me.) Probably will do away with the VVT, and install the equivalent of a Crane 272 cam. Or maybe a bit larger. I'm told (you know how that goes) that something like that ought to be worth ~280, without boost. I'm guessing more than that, but that guess is being pulled out of a "dark place". It was recommended to try to find a "non-emissions" cam that would work with the VVT, but I'm pretty sure that doesn't exist, in today's world.
Anyway... I'm babbling. Please carry on.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 11-21-2024).]
Another good engine is the LV3 90* V6...it is a 4300 but built using the LS/LT technology and is all aluminum, so weighs only 300 lbs vs the 2.8 that weighs 370 lbs....it is a torque-monster with 330 lb/ft- and has 285 hp @ 5300....and a very broad torque-curve.
G6, Malibu, Impala, and others on the same platform. Some minivans, too. Look (on the RPO sticker) for LZ9, or LGD. (LGD is the flex-fuel version of the LZ9) Avoid the LZ8. It has cylinder deactivation, and is lots more trouble than it's worth, according to the comments of a previous owner. The cool thing about the VVT engines is that the torque curve jumps up at very low RPMs, and stays that way through much of the range.
There is also a VVT 3.5, that came in mostly the same vehicles. The LZ4 or (flex fuel) LZE. 220 HP, and a similar torque curve. I had one in a G6, and thought it would make a great swap into a Fiero. But I ended up selling the car.
The VVT 3.5 is a de-stroked 3900.
[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 11-21-2024).]
Like mentioned the 4.3L LV3 is a good swap like you can see how the experts Mr. Holdener helped by the renown BTR team can do with this big V6 engine. The L32 3.4L V6 all iron doesn't come even close!
How about if you can do the same for the L32 but without the help of the experts!!!!? Trying more unconventional ways and ruling out turbos, just NA like the almighty LV3 4300 V6 Holdener and BTR fusion did on the video? This LV3 with direct injection, long tube headers, BTR Trinity intake manifold, 11.00:1 compression ratio and 220 big BTR cam in this video made 430hp & 369lbs/ft at the flywheel. That equates to 100hp per liter and 1.41 lbs/ft per cube. That's with no alternator, water pump, Power steering, mufflers, or catalytic convertors, and with experts and an entire engineering firm behind it, E85; basically uncorked.
How would a L32 with the same privileges would measure to this big block V6? (spelling)
[This message has been edited by La fiera (edited 11-24-2024).]
I agree with others... if the aesthetic doesn't matter to you... then you can pretty much go with whatever works for you. Like La Fiera and some of the others have said, the 3400 / 3500 motors will drop in using all the same motor mounts, and transmissions.
There's still other things you need to account for... such as the torque-strut mount (needs to be fabricated, but not hard), the wiring and ECM (do you go aftermarket or go stock), NOT hard... but cooling and exhaust are another thing.
The only word of caution I have is... if you go down that route, make sure you have everything planned out and purchased before you begin the swap. We've seen so many times on here that someone starts an engine swap by removing the old motor first, and then buying the parts and building it out... only to either lose interest or there's a life event or something... and the whole thing ends up in the junkyard.
