I have an '88 GT 5 speed that I finished a flywheel + clutch job on, along with replacing the starter with a CarQuest remanufactured unit. After getting everything back together, I tried starting it, but no dice. Pushing in the clutch and turning the key to crank causes a single "clunk" sound, and then another "clunk" when I release the key.
Not sure if this is relevant, but if I turn the key without the clutch pedal depressed, the two clunks are quieter.
-Battery is brand new -Neutral safety switch is connected -Starter shims were measured out using Ogre's 1/8" drill bit trick, so I don't think I'm running into clearance issues between the pinion and flywheel
If anyone has any ideas it would be greatly appreciated
Not sure if this is relevant, but if I turn the key without the clutch pedal depressed, the two clunks are quieter.
-Neutral safety switch is connected
There shouldn't be any "clunks" at all coming from the engine/transmission in this situation if the safety switch is functioning... (but you should hear the fuel pump prime for two seconds when the ignition key is turned to Run).
Has the shifter been adjusted properly, and is the transmission actually in Neutral when you're trying to start the engine?
From your description... I would guess that your clutch isn't being disengaged, and your transmission is still in gear.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-16-2025).]
I have an '88 GT 5 speed that I finished a flywheel + clutch job on, along with replacing the starter with a CarQuest remanufactured unit. After getting everything back together, I tried starting it, but no dice. Pushing in the clutch and turning the key to crank causes a single "clunk" sound, and then another "clunk" when I release the key.
Not sure if this is relevant, but if I turn the key without the clutch pedal depressed, the two clunks are quieter.
-Battery is brand new -Neutral safety switch is connected -Starter shims were measured out using Ogre's 1/8" drill bit trick, so I don't think I'm running into clearance issues between the pinion and flywheel
If anyone has any ideas it would be greatly appreciated
try the old starter. it sounds to me like the starter motor isn't working but the bendix is
Sounds like the starter doesn't work. Or your engine/flywheel/trans combo is binding and locked. See if you can rotate the engine by hand with a wrench. If you can't you messed up the clutch somehow or the trans is in gear and the linkage is messed up. If the engine turns freely then I would pull the starter and test to make sure it actually works. Reman starters/alternators from parts stores are notorious for not working. Last alternator I bought didn't work, had to buy a brand new one and returned the dead reman.
I did some probing and it does in fact look like the starter is dead, I couldn't get it to spin even when I manually put 12V across it. At least it's got a warranty Thank you for the replies!
The big concern I have is that (as Filben said) your clutch might be binding. I've seen situations where the clutch pack (clutch disc and clutch carrier?) are too big for the engine / transmission combination, yet are still being advertised as working for a Fiero. I don't have time to search for the thread here, but the culprit ended up being that the rivets that hold the clutch pack together were huge, and they rubbed against the transmission bell-housing on the inside, basically destroying it and the transmission aluminum webbing inside the casing.
I would replace the starter, but then I'd try to crank the engine with the fuel pump disabled... just to see how the engine turns. It should be smooth, and you shouldn't hear ANY clunking at all, as Patrick said.
A new starter that doesn't have the correct shims when replaced with make a grinding noise and it some cases will lock up. You can buy a package of starter shims at your local auto store. Dorman makes them. If you replaced the clutch and you are not in gear the transmission should free wheel with no binding when starting, You can check for starter bind by painting the starter gear before you install the starter. Prussian blue fitting compound by Permatix is recommended.. Its nondrying and can be wiped clean after the test. Ordinary latex paint can work but may be harder to remove. This will show how the starter gear is engaging.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
It should be smooth, and you shouldn't hear ANY clunking at all, as Patrick said.
The point I've been trying to make (with apparently no success) is that other than the fuel pump priming for two seconds, there should not be any other sound at all (clunking or otherwise) when the key is turned with the clutch not depressed. The clutch safety switch should be preventing any power from getting to the solenoid/starter.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-18-2025).]
The point I've been trying to make (with apparently no success) is that other than the fuel pump priming for two seconds, there should not be any other sound at all (clunking or otherwise) when the key is turned with the clutch not depressed. The clutch safety switch should be preventing any power from getting to the solenoid/starter.
In the first post it says there is a single clunk when key is turned to start and a clunk when key is released with the clutch pedal depressed (no cranking, just clunk), and the 2 clunks are quieter but still there when clutch is not depressed. I would assume there is a clutch switch bypass (says switch is connected, but maybe it's broken or something like that), and the starter motor itself isn't being engaged, just the solenoid thing on top of the motor, single clunk on, single clunk off, I don't know why clutch position would effect anything, or if it is unrelated.
[This message has been edited by 1985 Fiero GT (edited 03-18-2025).]
Thank you again to everyone who has responded! I did some more investigating. It does look like my clutch safety switch was bypassed by the previous owner.
The new clutch kit I installed was the same as the LuK set that was in the car originally, so I think I should be fine there.
I pulled the new starter off the car and hooked it directly to the battery using a remote start switch and jumper cables. The starter itself works fine.
While the starter was still installed, I probed around with a multimeter. Checking between the starter body and the large lug on the solenoid, I saw that the voltage read 0.0V. Furthermore, I discovered a braided copper ground strap that was broken off at one end.
So this does seem to be an electrical problem -- either the 12V feed from the battery isn't reaching the starter or that ground strap is the culprit.
If anyone has advice from this end, I would really appreciate it.
Checking between the starter body and the large lug on the solenoid, I saw that the voltage read 0.0V.
What's the voltage at the end of the thick battery cable on the solenoid that comes from the positive of the battery? If it's not the same as the voltage directly off the battery, then either the cable is bad or the battery connection (positive and/or negative) is bad.
I was able to run the starter on the car by directly running it off a battery with a remote start switch. It cranks well, so in terms of clearance and shimming, looks like everything is all good there.
I got some new leads for my multimeter and did a continuity test between the 12V cable to the battery and the ring terminal for the starter lug. Nothing. Should have checked the simplest part first. Oh well.
Looks like I'm tearing into the harness to find a bad splice. Thank you everyone for the help!
Thank you for the replies!
