1988GT, 3.4L, 4T60

You are bored reading about my Headlight Control Module(s) issues, etc. But this morning I think I had an epiphany. "Think I had" pending your opinions, especially that of Guru.

About three years ago I installed LED headlights. Easy to do. Some young guy did it on YouTube. If this is not exactly the same video the LED headlights look exactly the same as the ones in my GT now. https://youtu.be/74TSImuKSIc Obviously, as we all know, anything on YouTube must be perfectly safe and compatible, right? I have enjoyed driving with the LED headlights compared to the dimmer original lights.

A few days ago I noticed my dash headlight switch (on the dash, not to be confused with generation 1 headlight position switches) seemed a little squishy. Searching the Forum archives about that I kept seeing references - such as from Guru - about increased current flow with LEDs overheating circuits, deteriorating switches, etc.

Would my current problems with headlights not reliably raising be caused by the LED headlights? I still have the previous owner (pre 2006) traditional incandescent headlights which I removed from the car. Would not be a big deal to take the LEDs out and reinstall the old incandescents.

However, whatever damage the LEDs have done would still be there. I have an "open box" discounted headlight control module from Eckler's Corvette. (Ordered using an Eckler's part number provided by a Forum member whose name I'm too lazy to look up right now to thank him.) Luckily, I have not tried the Eckler's HCM with the LED headlights.

What are your opinions regarding this plan:
Reinstall the original headlights.
Start up engine and try headlights. Expect failure but would welcome a miracle.
After expected fail, install a new dash headlight switch. This step is number two because it should be easy to do. Hope for a miracle. (examine current dash headlight switch for signs of overheating/excess current)
If another fail, install Eckler's headlight control module. Hope for success. (disassemble current HCM expecting to find signs of overheating/excess current)

Should I try to get a new dash headlight switch to have available before starting the above process? If so, where?

As always, thank you!

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John W. Tilford

Generally LED headlights draw less current and should be gentler on the wiring and switches, I personally don't have much experience with that, but I wouldn't imagine that's your issue. When you have a headlight that is stuck up or down, have you tried tapping the top (knob) of it, it isn't uncommon for the brushes in the motor itself to fall off, which creates an intermittent connection, which will sometimes work, sometimes not, sometimes work slower or stop partway, both of my headlights had a brush fall off, which caused intermittent operation. Tapping the knob can move the insides a bit, maybe reconnecting where the brush fell off, if it moves at all when doing that, then I'd open up the motors and check the brushes, Rodney sells newer better ones and the glue to attach them

The right headlight seems by far the most reliable, but has recently started being coy.

I replaced the left motor about three years ago. Replaced the left plastic gear with Rodney's stainless last year. Left remains the least reliable.

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John W. Tilford

Install a new dash headlight switch first as it is available from many brands including ACDelco
The module is last....

PS - Pull the fuse before the switch as the line is HOT at all time.....
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Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT
Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles

[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 04-14-2025).]

Vintage-Nut,

I pulled the dash switch out, cleaned the male prongs (which did look old and crappy) re-installed, same symptoms. Ordered dash switch from Parts Geek for ~ $20. When arrives I'll try the new dash switch.

Disconnected the battery first.

If that fails I still have the new headlight control module to try.

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John W. Tilford

[This message has been edited by John W. Tilford (edited 04-16-2025).]

Thanks for the update and if you want, you can 'flood' the switch with electronic cleaner and at the same time, flipping the switches ...

Vintage-Nut,

I didn't do anything to the female/sockets/whatever connections to the dash wires. What think you, squirt WD-40 inside, shake, hair-dryer blow dry? How about carburetor cleaner? Starting fluid? I'm going into town in a few minutes and will try to find electronics cleaner.

No, I don't think I'd really use WD-40 because I think it leaves a slight greasy film behind, but I have known it to fix dash radio connections.

Sticking new headllights dash switch male prongs into a possibly 37 years of crud contaminated female connector might not be a good idea.

Don’t use WD-40. Use an electrical contact cleaner. It leaves no oily residue.

Mike in Sydney,

I was only kidding about the WD-40. I was once more gullible even than I am today and bought a mantle clock which seemed fine - ticking, hands moving. After a few days it was worthless. I took the back off and smelled the WD-40. A garage sale friend said that was an old trick. Spray the clock works, wind tight, it keeps time for a short period BUT the mechanism is gummed up and almost impossible to de-gum.

I bought a spray can of electronic cleaner this afternoon at my favorite electronic parts/stuff store in town. The spray nozzle even has three settings: full blast, medium, and mild. Came with a small diameter red tube about five inches long. Should work fine to get into the cavities of the connector.

You Aussie, Sydney? I had a USMC Vietnam R&R there in 1968. That's 16 years BF. Before Fiero.

[This message has been edited by John W. Tilford (edited 04-16-2025).]