Hey, guys. Long story short, I'm a long time car guy and decided to dip my toes in the Fiero pool for the first time. I bought an '86 SE. I'm super excited for this project and the best part is it actually runs but it is having clutch issues. I don't think it's hydraulic, I think it is clutch fork or pedal related. The previous owner said it won't go into gear, I was able to manipulate it into gear but it definitely is acting like the clutch is not fully disengaging. Is there a sure fire way to diagnose this issue? I much more of an automatic guy. I'm gonna double check to see if it was bled properly but then I'm assuming it's mechanical.
After that, I have fun plans for it. I've always been a V8 guy, my Monte Carlo SS has a very healthy 400 small block, I built a gnarly big block for my ex wife's '73 Mercury, I built a nice 468 for my '94 2500, etc. So this time I wanted to change things up. I haven't had a 2 seater since I sold my NA Miata back in '07 so I wanted to go that route again and settled on the oft maligned Pontiac Fiero. 🤣 Then I want to build a spiffed up LX9 3500 for it and just let it eat. I've never done a V6 project before and something different sounded fun. I'm going to have lots of questions because while I like the 60° engines, I've never modified one before. I've done some searching on the forum but lots of info is old and the pictures are not all there. If anyone is experienced with the LX9 swap I'd love to pick your brain!
Hey, guys. Long story short, I'm a long time car guy and decided to dip my toes in the Fiero pool for the first time. I bought an '86 SE. I'm super excited for this project and the best part is it actually runs but it is having clutch issues. I don't think it's hydraulic, I think it is clutch fork or pedal related. The previous owner said it won't go into gear, I was able to manipulate it into gear but it definitely is acting like the clutch is not fully disengaging. Is there a sure fire way to diagnose this issue? I much more of an automatic guy. I'm gonna double check to see if it was bled properly but then I'm assuming it's mechanical.
After that, I have fun plans for it. I've always been a V8 guy, my Monte Carlo SS has a very healthy 400 small block, I built a gnarly big block for my ex wife's '73 Mercury, I built a nice 468 for my '94 2500, etc. So this time I wanted to change things up. I haven't had a 2 seater since I sold my NA Miata back in '07 so I wanted to go that route again and settled on the oft maligned Pontiac Fiero. 🤣 Then I want to build a spiffed up LX9 3500 for it and just let it eat. I've never done a V6 project before and something different sounded fun. I'm going to have lots of questions because while I like the 60° engines, I've never modified one before. I've done some searching on the forum but lots of info is old and the pictures are not all there. If anyone is experienced with the LX9 swap I'd love to pick your brain!
The LX9 swap would be a nice swap... mostly because it'll fit right in and bolt up to the existing subframe without any real modification. There's a variety of transmissions you can go with too, all of which can easily fit on the cradle. As long as you bring a computer with it, you really only have to worry about exhaust as specific custom things and shift linkage. Otherwise, the 3500 would do awesome in that car!
As for the manual transmission... one of the most common issues in high mileage Fieros is that the clutch pedal gets bent. If you look at the three pedals in the drivers side foot well, they shoudl look like this:
The important thing to note is that the clutch pedal stands proud of the brake pedal by like half an inch or more. If the clutch pedal does not stick out further than the brake pedal, then the clutch pedal is bent. The back of the pedal will flex, and then you end up not being able to fully disengage the transmission. This becomes one of the biggest issues for Fieros because most shops don't think to check that, and they throw tons of money at it. So check that first...
If this is your problem, you can literally just try to bend it back, or replace it with a newer / better designed one from the Fiero Store: https://www.fierostore.com/.../Detail.aspx?s=66426 ... it's like $65 bucks or something.
Welcome to Pennock's!
[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 04-22-2025).]
...it is having clutch issues. I don't think it's hydraulic, I think it is clutch fork or pedal related. The previous owner said it won't go into gear, I was able to manipulate it into gear but it definitely is acting like the clutch is not fully disengaging. Is there a sure fire way to diagnose this issue? I much more of an automatic guy. I'm gonna double check to see if it was bled properly but then I'm assuming it's mechanical.
Does it go into gear easy enough when the engine is not running?
There are like 10,000 posts here from the last 26 years going over how to fix clutch disengagement problems... which 90% of the time is a hydraulic issue... and usually the result of the slave sucking in air. You have much to learn grasshopper.
Originally posted by Patrick: There are like 10,000 posts
That might be a slight exaggeration.
But I concur. if it is not releasing, then you have a mechanical device, driving a hydraulic device, driving a mechanical device. Pick your failure point.
Rodney dickman is still in business as far as I know. he sold adjustable banjo bolts, and the double seal MR2 slave pistons.
I am no expert on Fiero clutches ( favor automatics) but the system has basically 8 main parts; flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, master cylinder, slave cylinder, clutch fork, the feed line and the pedal. If the clutch is not releasing that probably means that pedal force is most likely not being applied to the pressure plate in the right amount. Get an assistant to press on the pedal while you look for movement on the fork with a flashlight. You should see an aggressive motion I believe its something over 1.5" inch. If the motion is slight then its something in the hydraulic system: slave, master cylinder or as mentioned a bent fork or clutch pedal. Just do the checks . I would also recommend asking the prior owner if the clutch is original or if it was replaced. Welcome to the Fiero Community; making mechanics out of ordinary people!
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 04-23-2025).]
I had already attempted to bend the tab on the clutch pedal toward to the bulkhead. I did some pressure bleeding of the clutch system and it's much better. Not perfect but it's drivable now. I think it's a hydraulic issue. I appreciate the replies!
One of my biggest questions is has anyone tried to run the stock ignition on a later engine? For simplicity sake, I want to keep the OBD1 stuff in the car. I see crank triggers are available, is that to run the distributorless ignition system? Can an intake that allows for a distributor be put on a 3500?
I had already attempted to bend the tab on the clutch pedal toward to the bulkhead. I did some pressure bleeding of the clutch system and it's much better. Not perfect but it's drivable now. I think it's a hydraulic issue. I appreciate the replies!
One of my biggest questions is has anyone tried to run the stock ignition on a later engine? For simplicity sake, I want to keep the OBD1 stuff in the car. I see crank triggers are available, is that to run the distributorless ignition system? Can an intake that allows for a distributor be put on a 3500?
In the long run, it would be far easier to use the PCM from the 3500 with DIS. The only thing the 3500 PCM is looking for from the Fiero is 12V IGN, 12V BATT, grounds and a VSS signal from the transmission.