Whilst glassing the first panel, it started melting on me even with the release agent as a barrier.... Sigh, so much for poly foam not melting. It wasn't quick, but still melting, I'm hoping it will still work. We'll see in an hour or so.
[This message has been edited by Custom2M4 (edited 04-12-2006).]
awww am sorry to hear 2m4 about that ..Hope its nothing to bad .and hope can be work around it for your Hard work you put into this .. and sorry for the .I must off miss the post the first time ..Rob
Well I obviously have to cover them with something,
Either - Duct tape - Tin Foil - Plaster etc.
It still sucks though. It was going pretty good for a while, took alot longer then I expected before it actually started to melt. I think the coats of mold release were helping quite a bit, but they were seeping into the foam a little bit. Guess I need to get some more duct tape and foil.
Well I decided to break from the fiero for a week. Keeps me on my feet and not angry at different projects.
It needed some new enclosures. I hope to have these finished by this weekend, and then I have a friend that is dropping off some door panels and trunk plates and wants some work done...
Soo expect a delay before the next update.
Thanks guys, Chase.
[This message has been edited by Custom2M4 (edited 05-18-2006).]
Well its good to see your taking a break ..so mean so am I lol from your post jk ..yeah time is best to rest from it ,then things get bether when we get back at them ..Happy easter and have a great weekend .Be safe and take care don,t eat to much chocolate hehehe
Mounting that amp upside down is not recommended.....
Its not getting mounted upside down... there aren't any wires run to it. Its either going on top of that fold down, or on the back of the seat... Still the seat isn't vented so I'll have to see how visible it is from the front on top of it
that amp will be fine upside down. i dunno where that whole rumour started from, but seriously it's not gonna matter that much. the amp is cooled by a heatsink, which conducts heat via conduction, not convection, so it's not gonna make enough of a difference whether it's facing up or down, as long as the heatsinks have air passing over them it will cool the amp. this info is coming from the guy who has run amps under seats, upside down, and sandwiched between wood and plexi for 6 yrs and never had one amp die on me, or even cut out because it overheated for that matter.
i will however comment on the size of those "enclosures" and how wavy/ugly they are. c'mon chase, i expected better
Scott, there are physics behind why mounting an amp up-side down is bad and NOT a rumour.. I have to run right now, but I'll give you the details when I get back. Several owners manuals state not to do so.
When an amp is mounted normally and in use the components on the amp generate heat. This heat rises away from the components and hits the top of the amp where it is dispersed through heatsinks and the amps chassis.
When the amp is mounted inverted, the heat from the components also rises, but instead of rising to the top of the amp where there are no components, the heat rises to the circuit board. The circuit board does not dissapate heat like the amp's chassis and the board heats up, in turn heating the components on the amp even more. If an amp is not being pushed very hard, it is not generating as much heat, so mounting upside down is ok in some cases. If an amp is being driven hard, it is very likely that it will overheat if mounted up-side down unless it has suficient cooling...
ok, first off, i have a physics degree second, i need to clarify. i'm not saying that it won't make ANY difference. i'm saying that it won't make a SIGNIFICANT difference. it's my opinion, that mounting an amp, in an otherwise well ventilated area upside down, that relies solely on heatsinks to dissipate heat, the amp will be fine. it will probably run a few degrees warmer, but still well within it's operating range.
if you are the type of person who plays music as loud as you can all the time and drive for hours on end in the summer. it MAY cause premature failure of the amp, but i've yet to see proof personally.
i will tell you this much, mounting an amp upside down in a well ventilated area is certainly not as bad as mounting an amp in a small sealed off space. and i've seen amps running strong for years in a small sealed of space.
here if you want to prove me wrong, do a little test. mount an amp normally and run it for 30mins, then measure the temperature(of the inside, not the heatsinks). give it a day to cool off or wait til it reaches ambient temps. then mount it upside down and run the same 30mins of songs through it at the same volume, and measure the temperature. then do a little research on the components inside, what temps can they handle on a continuous basis, intermittent basis, not at all. is there enough difference in temperatures inside the amp to conclude the components are wearing out much faster?
i think the problem with this myth is that ppl are using the old touch the amp method to see if it's hot. well guess what, if you touch the heatsink, and it's hot, that means the heatsink is working WELL. the problem is that not enough air is passing over the heatsink to adequately cool it down. so what i'm saying, is that all things being equal, a colder heatsink means WORSE cooling of the components inside.
well, getting WAY off topic so i'll just leave it at this. amps are designed to be installed facing up, and placed in an area that has good ventilation. in these conditions the amps will have optimum cooling capabilities. mounting an amp upside down will reduce it's effectiveness mounting an amp in an area without good ventilation will also reduce it's effectiveness.
it is my personal opinion, that mounting an amp with poor ventilation is far more hazardous than mounting one upside down. it is also my personal opinion that for 90% or more of the ppl who will use amps in there cars, mounting it upside down will not have a significant affect on the amp, it will still be well within it's limits
now chase, for the love of god post some progress and end this
I want to hear the debate, this is one of the few debates with either of you guys that I am not involved in. Its nice. Sort of like when you tried to convince me that autos are better then standards . But lets not get back into that!
I want to hear the debate, this is one of the few debates with either of you guys that I am not involved in. Its nice. Sort of like when you tried to convince me that autos are better then standards . But lets not get back into that!
that was taken way out of context. it's amazing how i can drive around for 5 yrs with my automatic taken heat for it from nearly everybody, and yet one person says "i don't want a manual for my performance build because..." and all of a sudden everybody's super upset and think i'm telling them to get an auto cause manuals suck blah blah, relax guys. all i said was i wanted to stick with auto cause i felt it was stronger stock
I had to drop a friend off on eldredge, just thought I'd see what scotty my boy was up to. Your like 20 seconds away . A nice little cruize in the escort. hehe
I've never actually taken a car amp apart but arent heatsinks usually adhered one way or another to the power transistor or what ever they are trying to cool? That would be the most effective way. anywho....
I wonder if FieroRumor will try to sue as your car may infringe on his "pinky the fiero" idea. lol
i do believe that often the heatsinks will be physically connected to what it's cooling, thus my conduction not convection comment. however, there really isn't a cheap way to attach the entire circuit board to the heatsinks, so there is definately a lot of conduction from air to metal and the whole convection thing, blah blah. but really, we're talking about an inch, there MIGHT be a 5degree difference between the circuit board and the heatsink. i mean there's probably only a 1degree difference between the floor and the ceiling of the room your in right now
Pfft! You guys. So what I've gotten lazy hehehe. I am searching for a job this week. I need to pay for a few things. I'll get to it don't worry. lol. I'll be sure to post pictures!
Well I have had some progress on the car...... But I won't be continuing this build.....
Too many people find what I am doing humorous. So I am going to take a break from forums. Maybe I'll send madcurl a couple pictures to post when its done.
It was fun. Bye guys!
Sincerely, Your friend, Chase.
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[This message has been edited by Custom2M4 (edited 04-21-2006).]
I have done some work on my own car, yes. I am not really wanting to post pictures just yet. But I have been looking at the forum.. damn this place.. Addicting.
quote
Originally posted by exoticse:
Custom if you see this check your PM, i had a question for you.
Saw, replied. What you were refering to was a friends car that I am doing body work for. Yet another fiero in my garage. Cardomain screwed up a little bit because I had deleted those pictures originally in this thread, and uploaded new ones. So what you saw wasn't exactly what was there... lol
The blue spoiler posted on the car was actually my spoiler going on my car. Its a VEILSIDE wing. I just put it on his to see what it would look like on a fastback.
Before someone asks.. yes the pink panels are all piled up waiting for me to lay glass on the rest of them. :P I found a good method of keeping them from melting. Its coming along well.
[This message has been edited by Custom2M4 (edited 05-18-2006).]
I've been reading this thread, so I have a question: How do you take off the door panel without pulling the door?
Start with the interior, remove the 2 screws (Philips) holding the trim plate over the handle, pull up on the lock cover it will come off, take off the trim (inner door panel black trim plate), then remove the 3 screws (Philips) holding on the arm rest, take that off, take some scissors / screwdriver along the edges of the interior panel and find all the mounting tabs.. (I say scissors because if you don't have the tool its easy not to break the tabs, one prong on eachside and pop them out)
Once that is done you need to disconnect the mirror so roll the window down all the way and remove the two felt / rubber strips (weather seals) on the inside of the door (Philips), one is screwed in, the other is just pressed on. Then you have the corner pieces that are held on my 3 (Philips) screws, they will look like rubber guards, sort of triangluar. When those are off you should be able to see the studs and nuts on the mirror. Use a 10mm socket and take your time. loosen one, then the other, and go back and forth, if you loosen one too much you wont be able to get your socket out before finishing and you'll have to start over. You'll understand when you get to that point. Then comes the disconnection of the door handle, some people don't do this, as the bar comes with the handle some times, but I still disconnect the little plastic retainer that holds on the bar.
Then take off the outer trim along the door skin with a screwdriver lightly not breaking the clips, there is one screw close to the middle that you need to remove (7mm), along the door jam on the lip of the door there are what look like rubber screws all the way around, should be 3 on each side (Philips if its an 84, or a 30torx if its 85+) Note that 84 doors are different then 85's (I'll explain in a bit why), Once those are off there should be 5-6 rubber rivits on the bottom of the door, remove those (pop in the middle and pry them from the door, pretty easy).
After all that if you have an 84, your door panel will be held on by plastic screws that can be pulled straight off. If you have an 85+ there is a lip at the top of the door that holds it in place, just lift up on the door panel towards the window and it will come loose.
That should about sum it up in as much detail as I can give. If you have anymore questions don't feel bad about asking.
... 
don,t eat to much chocolate hehehe
