with the front hub change the stock brakes will not fit you will have to upgrade to the vette brakes for the hubs to work as for the rear you can use the vette or the S10 rotors and 6000 calipers I wont do a kit as I dont have access to corvair parts I buy mine from ebay and that is hit and miss at times If you get the parts I can have the hubs done for you and the 6000 uprights machined but that would be all I can do you would have to follow the instructions posted here and on my site to get it done
[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 10-14-2004).]
Will the fit is so close that only a small amount needs to be removed the first ones I did I removed the extra material with sanding brums and it worked fine now I going to se if I can reduce the size of the bearing surface to match the fiero bearing shells If so iI will go that rout
When I first saw this on your website I got an S10 bearing to try, but it had a shoulder that prevented it from going into the A-body upright, as well as bolt pattern issues, IIRC. I didn't feel like doing the necessary machining to get it to go together. I don't believe in modifying wear parts like bearing cartridges. I looked more closely at your website and one of the pictures you had up at the time showed quite clearly about 1/4" gap between the bearing and the upright. I was quite graveled that you called it a bolt together upgrade... But if you're doing it right now, that's all gravy.
------------------ Turn the key and feel the engine shake the whole car with its lope; Plant the gas pedal and feel in your chest neither a shriek nor a wail but a bellowing roar; Lift and be pushed into the harness by compression braking that only comes from the biggest cylinders while listening to music of pops and gurgles. Know that you are driving an American V8. There are finer engines made, but none of them are this cool.
Luck, Fate and Destiny are words used by those who lack the courage to define their own future
Will the first ones I did are still working fine on an old fiero I sold the owner has put over 40,000 miles on the setup with no problems the one I will be doing for the back will have the hub itself remachined to fit new bearings and fitted to a smaller bearing shell If possible if not I will rework the 6000 upright to fit the bearing and install a press in collar around the inner bore which will make it fit better than in a stock S10 upright for the bolts I bolt the bearing housing in from the front and drill out the stock threads and slot the holes .this moves the bolts closer to the housing and retains its strength moving them outward would weaken the housing this is one of the pics from the site
[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 10-14-2004).]
I refuse to modify a wear part. I have visions of being stuck in the middle of the desert needing a wheel bearing that requires 2 hours of machine shop time before it can be installed.
I would be willing to modify the upright, however, but I'd rather just start from scratch...
Will thats what I do is retrofit the upright to fit the bearing I will see if it is possible to move the holes in the upright to make the bearing a bolt in without slotting the holes and post my results as uprights are cheep from the bone yard there are plentifull
I refuse to modify a wear part. I have visions of being stuck in the middle of the desert needing a wheel bearing that requires 2 hours of machine shop time before it can be installed.
...
Understandable. But, you could always make a spare and bolt it to the back of the spare tire and take it with you where ever you go. In reality, bears usually give plenty of warning (like wining or growling) before they fail. But, modifying the uprights would be preferred.
well I picked up the parts for the rear hub swap today and have remeasured all the components and it is possible to mount the S10 bearing without changws to the bearing all than needs to be done is rebore the upright to fit the bearing and put a bearing spacer in I have the diagram for the spacer done and once machined I will do the test fit and then post pics of the unit
here is some of the info needed for the rear hub change fig. A: you need to rebore the inside diameter from 3.55 to 3.615 to a depth of 1,085 inches fig. B: the bolts holes need to be moved over .020 inches to bolt the new hub in as you can see in this diagram the hole are only off a small amout \ as I am using the Vette brakes in the rear I need to remove these ears in yellow for the caliper brackets to be installed the diagram for the bearing filler is done and will post it separetly
[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 10-17-2004).]
Do you know from what model year (roughly) you pulled the S10 hub? It seems that the current model and the previous model both used a CV type carrier bearing.
as I said earlier in the post this car in the pic has over a 20 inch stretch and is not what I am doing .My stretch was done to acomidate the engine trans axle I am using as the th 425 will not give you a true mid engine and is auto when I preffer a stick
well I hope to have the uprights back from the machine shop tomorrow and start the rear swap if the weather is good been sick with the flue for the last few days will post pic's if every thing goes good in the morning
[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 10-22-2004).]
Thanks alot for the info Bubba. so... for the rear of the fiero, user 6000 front hubs(i believe 6000's go to 91 or 92 and olds ciera's go to 1996) and s10 wheel bearings:
83 to 92 are all the same the 92 have a abs ring but is easy to remove but are the same diamention 83 to 89 have no ring so are cheeper to buy
wheel bearings, i am assuming the pickup trucks have them and those are the ones you mean and not the blazer. Please let me know because I'm going pickin at the yards Monday
got the uprights back yesterday with the rebore done and the holes slotted and the bearings fit without being reworked hope to have the spacers done this week and will start removing the old setup for test fitting of the brakes and wheels tomorrow
[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 10-24-2004).]
HI Joe what a job really now not one I would like but can't wait to see it done if anyone should get a prize it's you. Thanks for all the pic on my car hope all will enjoy that was a lot for me, it would be to much with out all your help thanks.
BubbaJoe, another question. A local 6000 friend said there are 2 different hubs for the 6000, regular and heavyduty, both were available for all model years. Any Idea if both work. They said the regular model used hubs with the 5x100 bolt pattern, while the HD unit used the 5x114.5 or 5x115 bolt pattern. Do you remember which bolt pattern wheel bearing the 6000 was? Thanks
[This message has been edited by VISCERAL (edited 10-26-2004).]
there on the car still more to do though to go with the 9.5 rim I have to move the strut inward 1/4 inch and will do that with the new struts and coil overs
I was planning on using those for my rear Grand Am brake swap. Did you have to make a spacer to widen it? How'd you mount it? How did you attach the cable?
I was just curiouse if you were planning on a larger gas tank or just being the fastest car to the gas station every day. Also is this thing going to be able to pass emmisions testing. When i dropped the v8 in the ford i used to own i had to spend a day at the emmisions shop waiting for them to tell me since the car was a 78 and the engine was a 90, i had to pass 90 emmissions laws.
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