full trunk would be nice . . . but that is a big weight shift in the wrong direction.
Do you mean the weight shift of the rads in back or all the junk in the full front trunk? I would also move the battery up front into the redesigned compartment.
if you use 6 core wide spaced 3/4 tube rads 15X8 and run them in series it can be done in the side pannels but you would need good ducting to move the air in and out and use 2 high cfm 7 inch fans per rad and a 1 3/4" transfer tube between the rads and daul fan temp sencors for turning the fans on one on the engine and one in the leading rad
airflow is the big issue - I was eyeing up how the guillardo has em setup
Do you mean the weight shift of the rads in back or all the junk in the full front trunk? I would also move the battery up front into the redesigned compartment.
Actually moving the typical fiero toolbox out of the rear trunk and into a front trunk would do wonders for the weight distribution
Do you mean the weight shift of the rads in back or all the junk in the full front trunk? I would also move the battery up front into the redesigned compartment.
just moving the battery will counter the loss of the front rad as the rad is 12 lbs and 1/12 gallons of coolant is another 22 lbs and the average battery weighs 45 lbs a fair trade
airflow is the big issue - I was eyeing up how the guillardo has em setup
with a single water pump with rads in parallel I would not do as flow is often unequal in the rads and you get hot spots but in series each rad cools the coolant as it passes between them and can not flow uneven
just moving the battery will counter the loss of the front rad ...
Thanks for the comments on my idea...I'm not trying to steal your thread or anything but it's great to hear from the master of Fiero Custom design. What do you have planned for the front compartment on this car?
Do you mean the weight shift of the rads in back or all the junk in the full front trunk? I would also move the battery up front into the redesigned compartment.
well, that all depends on if your wife finds out that there is a bunch of extra room up there!
(for autocrossing i would like to have batt and rad up front. im even working on moving all the ac equipment up front. ?)
Originally posted by ricreatr: well, that all depends on if your wife finds out that there is a bunch of extra room up there! (for autocrossing i would like to have batt and rad up front. im even working on moving all the ac equipment up front. ?)
For autocrossing you'd want the battery and radiators in back to centralize the weight and decrease the car's moment of inertia as much as possible.
Originally posted by ricreatr: (for autocrossing i would like to have batt and rad up front. im even working on moving all the ac equipment up front. ?)
well if i do i will do it in better weather (sunny and warm ) and when i get my car on the road... when do you expect yours to be road worthy?? matt
once the chassie changes are complete I will reasemble the body and finish the body work and prep it for paint hopefully this summer it will be one the road
The only AC equipment in the back is the compressor, are you planning an electric motor driven compressor?
yep, i thought later about how little the rad weighs, not such a big deal. and you completely loose the weight of the long tubes. no REAL autocrosser here. just a daily driver that LOVES to cross when the time comes.
but, bubba's thread is what we all would rather hear (see) about (myself included). thanks again bubba!
these are the same size as my front 12 inch and I want more stopping power to the rear than there was originaly with a porp vcalve i will be able to equalize the front and rear braking
It can be hard getting rid of all the white, but its not as hard as building a super car. Hey do you think that rear suspension would work on a stock Fiero?
[This message has been edited by Jake_Dragon (edited 03-06-2005).]
It can be hard getting rid of all the white, but its not as hard as building a super car. Hey do you think that rear suspension would work on a stock Fiero?
yes it is possible but it is a ton of work to get it perfect
Bubba: They are curved vane rotors? You need to switch these side to side. The vanes take air in from the hub area.
taking air in from the hub area in the rear is impractical as the area is filled in with the internal drum E brake and only a 1/4 inch space around the backing plate
i was reading on a corvette forum (boring by the way) the c6 owners up in arms about all of them having been shafted with all left rotors! come to find out gm cut costs by only making one part - forget the direction! some unhappy payment makers.
Thanks for the info Bubbajoexxx, just got a few questions:
1) the 3 holes in the upright are barely ever so slotted, are they slotted all the way through to the other end, meaning oval holed and retapped outer portion of the hole therefore ending up with a fully tapped oval hole? 2) the bearing you show in your pic had the 3 studs in place, where did you get these? I bought new 4x4 S10 front bearings and they are like the 6000 bearings where you need to bolt them in with bolts going through past the wheel mating surface. If their are differrent I assume they are available at autoparts stores and do the have a nut on the other side? 3) you also show a pic with a portion of the horns cutoff to fit vette brake adapters. I have a copy of a set of your adapters and plan on using 88-96 rear covette calipers on my 6000 hd uprights. I havent had time to check it out personally.
Scratch off # 3, I just saw the pic of the adapters in place, gotta hack them off. Nothing to see here...move along...
Thanks for all your knowledge and support.
quote
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx:
here is some of the info needed for the rear hub change fig. A: you need to rebore the inside diameter from 3.55 to 3.615 to a depth of 1,085 inches fig. B: the bolts holes need to be moved over .020 inches to bolt the new hub in as you can see in this diagram the hole are only off a small amout \ as I am using the Vette brakes in the rear I need to remove these ears in yellow for the caliper brackets to be installed the diagram for the bearing filler is done and will post it separetly
[This message has been edited by VISCERAL (edited 03-09-2005).]
Thanks for the info Bubbajoexxx, just got a few questions:
1) the 3 holes in the upright are barely ever so slotted, are they slotted all the way through to the other end, meaning oval holed and retapped outer portion of the hole therefore ending up with a fully tapped oval hole? 2) the bearing you show in your pic had the 3 studs in place, where did you get these? I bought new 4x4 S10 front bearings and they are like the 6000 bearings where you need to bolt them in with bolts going through past the wheel mating surface. If their are differrent I assume they are available at autoparts stores and do the have a nut on the other side? 3) you also show a pic with a portion of the horns cutoff to fit vette brake adapters. I have a copy of a set of your adapters and plan on using 88-96 rear covette calipers on my 6000 hd uprights. I havent had time to check it out personally.
Scratch off # 3, I just saw the pic of the adapters in place, gotta hack them off. Nothing to see here...move along...
Thanks for all your knowledge and support.
1 they are sloted all the way though and are not threaded as the hubs bolt from the rear 2 these studs are for displaying the amount od the slot and not to bolt the hub in 3 ok
But Bubba, shouldnt they mount in the original way, I mean the uprights have threads, the hubs have threads, the hubs go into the bore and you spin the wheel stud flange until the open hole in the flange gives you access to pass the bolt through the seating flange of the hub(which have threads) through the 3 upright holes that now have been slotted and have no threads. You say they bolt from the back now but in your old install pics they all show them as installed in the factory position from the outside of the wheel going towards the center of the car. I havent seen any pics showing that you have passed the bolt from inside the upright going outwards towards the wheel. I am just going by looking at the pic quoted "Upright and bearing" on http://www.fortunecity.com/skyscraper/switch/67/id205.htm . But slotting the holes would wipe out the upright threads that hold the hub securely on? Am I looking at the wrong pictures?
Sorry if I am being difficult, I'm just trying to follow your lead. Help!!!!!! I just wanna drop these off at my machinist.
Another problem I have is I have bearings like this
how does one pass the torx bolt thru? I'll have to open a hole to a U shape I guess. Or do you take the inner portion of the upright and remove material so all 3 holes are the same thickness?
[This message has been edited by VISCERAL (edited 03-09-2005).]
But Bubba, shouldnt they mount in the original way, I mean the uprights have threads, the hubs have threads, the hubs go into the bore and you spin the wheel stud flange until the open hole in the flange gives you access to pass the bolt through the seating flange of the hub(which have threads) through the 3 upright holes that now have been slotted and have no threads. You say they bolt from the back now but in your old install pics they all show them as installed in the factory position from the outside of the wheel going towards the center of the car. I havent seen any pics showing that you have passed the bolt from inside the upright going outwards towards the wheel. I am just going by looking at the pic quoted "Upright and bearing" on http://www.fortunecity.com/skyscraper/switch/67/id205.htm . But slotting the holes would wipe out the upright threads that hold the hub securely on? Am I looking at the wrong pictures?
Sorry if I am being difficult, I'm just trying to follow your lead. Help!!!!!! I just wanna drop these off at my machinist.
Another problem I have is I have bearings like this
how does one pass the torx bolt thru? I'll have to open a hole to a U shape I guess. Or do you take the inner portion of the upright and remove material so all 3 holes are the same thickness?
I bolt them from the rear as it does not weaken the hub slotting the hubs and removing the thread takes off to much material rear bolting maintains the strength of the hub and does not harm the upright as only a small amout is removed to rear bolt them as for bolts I alwas use new bolts and use one longer bolt for the bottom hole as 12mm bolts are cheep only 1.05 each the hubs you bought are generic replacements and will work fine
[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 03-10-2005).]
been sike with the flue for the past week and hope to get back to work monday on the rear of the car will have lots of pics if it works out what I have planned
got outside today and filled in the spaces on the new stucture with 16 gauge 3/4 perforated steel this material will renforce the tubbing and stiffen the chassie also removed the battery box and the cross bracing so I can start on the right side tomorrow
Didnt have anything else just the grin.
\
