WOW! You win.. I don't know what you won for but YOU WIN!
------------------ 1985 2m4 Saskatoon, Sask Canada Visit the Saskatoon Fiero Club Website at http://www.freewebs.com/saskatoonfieros/ Come chat with us at our Forum http://saskfiero.suddenlaunch.com/
Just out of curiosity, Is there anything you can design & build? really amazing work! I think one of the best parts is all the work you did OUTSIDE in a Canadian WINTER!
well the first flaired side is on the car and works out well and the way it is done may interest notchy owner who want an easy way to flair out the body cheeply .Here are the pics
the use of an old notchy clip is what makes it easy
the wheel opening is now 2 inches wider than stock
Bubbajoexxx I was looking over you site on the brake upgrades and decided to do it myself with the bolt pattern change(5 X 3/4 ). I am hoping you can shed a little light on something for me. What year 6000 uprights do I need? Also what year chevy 4X4 hubs do I need for the rear? Last question. I thought I read somewhere in this massive post about having to use a cadillac part to mate the 4X4 axle with the fiero axle? what is this piece? Awesome thread by the way. Interesting concept! Thanks for your help.
finished up one side today and hope for nice weather tomorrow so I can start on the other have a few comparison pcs so you can se the differance in bothe sides
in the above pics you can see how much the body is flaired out
Bubbajoexxx I was looking over you site on the brake upgrades and decided to do it myself with the bolt pattern change(5 X 3/4 ). I am hoping you can shed a little light on something for me. What year 6000 uprights do I need? Also what year chevy 4X4 hubs do I need for the rear? Last question. I thought I read somewhere in this massive post about having to use a cadillac part to mate the 4X4 axle with the fiero axle? what is this piece? Awesome thread by the way. Interesting concept! Thanks for your help.
85 to 90 P 6000 heavy duty 115 bolt patern uprights S10 4X4 84 to 92 front wheel bearing assemblies 85 to 87 caddy center ball cage center used with S10 balls and outer bearing ring
Never mind Bub...i've got to swing by your place. Always up in and around that area filling orders for customers anyway. Darn! email me @ torontobodyparts@rogers.com to let me know when you'll be working on her and ill swing on by!
for thos of you who want to do the rear body flair I am posting the prosedure step by step including instruction
first of all you need a notchy rear clip and need to separate the outer skinn from the inner liner .simple to do with a good putty knife Once separated you will need to cut the upper section of to look like this from the bottom lip 6 1/2 inches up the cut back at the B piller as in the pic
next bend 2 pieces of metal in a z shape to form a base to set the new pannel on as in the next 2 pics
the metal is bent 2 inches and tapers to 0 at each end now set the new panel in place and make sure the front edge is in line with the body line and clamp into place the clamp the rear making sure the panel is flush at the top as you press it in and you will find the rear drops below the body line at the rear by 1 inch or less
at this point mark where the rear needs to be cut as in the pics
now that the panel matches the body you MUST BE SURE TO REMOVE ALL PAINT from the surfaces you will be fiberglassing as if you DONT the glass will not bond and will peal off .Use 40 grit sand paper to prep the surface for bonding the ruffer the surface the better the bond
now you have the surfaces preped for bonding place the pannel into place using clamp where possible and screws every 4 inches alone the top 3/4 of an inch below the bonding line
now mix you fiberglass resin acording to the instructions and apply short 3 inch long by 1nch stips over the length of the area to bond and let harden you will apply wider stips each time to build up the area of the bond 1" 2" then 3" sanding between layers to keep the area flat once first layer is hard remove the screws and add each new layer
as you finish each layer you will see the area fill in better fiberglass than bondo
more tomorrow will be doing the body stips for attaching the panels and bunper
I thought the "wagon" looked good, but this is AWSOME! I guess the bar for customizing a Fiero has just been raised! GREAT work, please keep the pics coming!!
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[This message has been edited by Convertable Indy (edited 05-08-2005).]
When I go to Buffalo I always hit the tim h.... it rocks that car looks GREAT... it really is an amazing feat of customization. let the world see it.. be proud.. I'm proud just to be a member of the same forum as people like you and madcurl.
[This message has been edited by NY_FIERO (edited 05-10-2005).]
Hi Bubba, thanks for all your help, how about the torque amounts for the rear corvette caliper swap: caliper to mount and mount to upright, thanks. and btw did you ever have a pic or description of how to hook up the rear brake cables?
[This message has been edited by VISCERAL (edited 05-09-2005).]
Knock on wood but HOW much would it suck if this car got rear ended or something small. I mean look at the work involved in all of this...this car is, from front to back, custom. Bubba needs a helper...ever though of opening up your own shop?
Keep up the good work!
SR
[This message has been edited by stevenrossi (edited 05-09-2005).]
Thank you very much for all the information, the photos, and descriptions! It gives those of us who have no experience the courage to try something unique on our own.
Knock on wood but HOW much would it suck if this car got rear ended or something small. I mean look at the work involved in all of this...this car is, from front to back, custom. Bubba needs a helper...ever though of opening up your own shop?
Keep up the good work!
SR
unfortunatly for ever 6 hours I spend on the car it take me 36 hour to recover from the pain I suffer with my back though I would love to have a shop to help everone out with there cars I could never surive the pain . I'm in bad shape with my back .
Hi Bubba, thanks for all your help, how about the torque amounts for the rear corvette caliper swap: caliper to mount and mount to upright, thanks. and btw did you ever have a pic or description of how to hook up the rear brake cables?
caliper to mount 45 ftlbs mount to upright 35 ftlbs
if using 88 calipers with ebrake you need one new cable I always make my own
When I go to Buffalo I always hit the tim h.... it rocks that cat looks GREAT... it relly is an amazing feat of customization. let the world see it.. be proud.. I'm proud just to be a member of the same forum as people like you and madcurl.
I thought the "wagon" looked good, but this is AWSOME! I guess the bar for customizing a Fiero has just been raised! GREAT work, please keep the pics coming!!
Thanks Joe, I have the 96 rear vette calipers and they came with some short brake cable still attached to them, the fiero cables have a barrel at the end while the vette has the loop. Not sure what to do.
quote
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx:
caliper to mount 45 ftlbs mount to upright 35 ftlbs
if using 88 calipers with ebrake you need one new cable I always make my own
Thanks Joe, I have the 96 rear vette calipers and they came with some short brake cable still attached to them, the fiero cables have a barrel at the end while the vette has the loop. Not sure what to do.
I usualy cut and remove the inner cable then using 1/8 aircraft cable make a new one using crimp clamps all you need is a good vise to squeeze them shut
Hey Bubba.....that is one badass machine!! This one car that I can't wait to see! Any idea of an ETA of when you'll be around to show her off in person at one of many gatherings planned this summer?
What color are you going to paint it? Somebody photoshop 88gt nose on it and do it in some colors.
the nose is 88 4 cylinder and will have a custom air dam installed I dont like the GT nose on this car I had one on there and removed it and the car will be painted tangerine pearl check out this link to see it in one color http://toddshotrods.com/geneticart.htm
Hey Bubba.....that is one badass machine!! This one car that I can't wait to see! Any idea of an ETA of when you'll be around to show her off in person at one of many gatherings planned this summer?
I am hoping this summer as there is still some glass work to do and some custom parts to make
Every once in a while I like to do a little photoshop of the progress. This is what I came up with:
I spent quite a bit of time on it to get everything looking right and finished. I hope you like it... I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
I like the lowered look, and of course the color. I noticed on the real car that the back wheels look good, but theres a pretty big wheel gap in front. Any plans for that, Bubba?
Double C, you are da man when it comes to photoshop work. Humour us all - What if you shaved the door handles, glass in the molding, paint the roof and "A" pillars black with tinted glass all around and leave the ass end slightly higher than the front end? Bubba, not trying to tell what you should do but this a great way to see conceptual ideas on probably one of the most modified Fiero's ever attempted. No disrepect intended to Madcurl because he has and continues to push the Fiero envelope with each and every Fiero he owns.
Double C, you are da man when it comes to photoshop work. Humour us all - What if you shaved the door handles, glass in the molding, paint the roof and "A" pillars black with tinted glass all around and leave the ass end slightly higher than the front end? Bubba, not trying to tell what you should do but this a great way to see conceptual ideas on probably one of the most modified Fiero's ever attempted. No disrepect intended to Madcurl because he has and continues to push the Fiero envelope with each and every Fiero he owns.
all my fiero's have the trademark satin black roof section and there is no way to fill the mouldings in and have it last as there is nothing on this earth that will hold well to poly panels as the doors and front are made of I have seend 4 cars filled and all of them start cracking and pealing in a year or so the only way to get the fully smooth look is to make glass door skins bumpers and fenders the bond them all together. the best one I sen done took 4 weeks to be done and was full of cracks after the first speed bump he hit with the chin spoiler and that was done all with epoxy resin filler 4000 dollar paint job shot on one bump.
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