Cool. So the boots are removable without too much trouble? Any problems with the larger dia wire?
had no trouble at all removing the boots just make sure the liners are not cracked or they leak like a sive spark wise the larger wire went in without trouble with a little vasoline
here are some of the pics of the start of the suspension upgrade will post all pics of the progress here is the lower control are trimmed of all the unnessesary pieces this is the jag coil over modified for ajustable spring height easy to do just remove the stock spring and spring mount then install the new spring and threaded sleave and install the spring stop here is the cross member with the spring cup and bump stop removed
Originally posted by exoticse: A little something for bubbajoe to think about,.................
Custom photochop by Custom2m4
chopping the top is a no no with the firebird rear glass I know of only one 84 firebird with a chop top and it cost him 12 grand 4 grand for the chop the balance for 4 rear windows that never fit finaly had to settle for one of the flat fglass flat window covers that make the car look like a notchie
well picked up the new intakes tonight made of 2 30 LBS blocks of aluminum .They are made to be used with the carbs and if the carbs done give the the smooth responce I want I will bring them to the machine shop and have the butterflys installed and the injector bosses milled out for fuel injection
well picked up the new intakes tonight made of 2 30 LBS blocks of aluminum .They are made to be used with the carbs and if the carbs done give the the smooth responce I want I will bring them to the machine shop and have the butterflys installed and the injector bosses milled out for fuel injection
150 per side to machine and 7.50 per pound for the aluminum stock at 60 pounds no orings I use hight temp rubber gasket composite
wow, I would have thought that was backwards - $500 for the machining, $150 for the al stock. You should find a cheaper source of aluminum. Usually it's about $2/lb new, like 80c/lb scrap
Originally posted by ryan.hess: wow, I would have thought that was backwards - $500 for the machining, $150 for the al stock. You should find a cheaper source of aluminum. Usually it's about $2/lb new, like 80c/lb scrap
you will never buy new 6160 here for less than 7.50 the sh**t here in canada is expensive the only way to get it cheeper is to buy the full length 22 ft at 5.00 per lbs
[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 09-25-2006).]
49 pages?? Jeeze..... you need to make a new page with a table of contents on it I'm gathering parts and ideas for a N* powered street rod project and thought I remembered something about you setting up a N* with Dist and carbs so I started digging around your thread to see what you had come up with. I see back around page 6 that you had a front mount dist but now on page 49 I see some GM looking coil packs. so what did I miss in the middle 43 pages? I was actually thinking of using an HEI on the end of the cam, but options are always interesting to me.
49 pages?? Jeeze..... you need to make a new page with a table of contents on it I'm gathering parts and ideas for a N* powered street rod project and thought I remembered something about you setting up a N* with Dist and carbs so I started digging around your thread to see what you had come up with. I see back around page 6 that you had a front mount dist but now on page 49 I see some GM looking coil packs. so what did I miss in the middle 43 pages? I was actually thinking of using an HEI on the end of the cam, but options are always interesting to me.
Your project looking good as usual, Russ
the ignition setup you see is an HPV 1 by electromotive got it real cheep so I am using it but if you weld a mount ing plate to the water log you can go with a gimmler belt driven HEI dist off the cam with little work
the ignition setup you see is an HPV 1 by electromotive got it real cheep so I am using it but if you weld a mount ing plate to the water log you can go with a gimmler belt driven HEI dist off the cam with little work
Uh hu. I think I will go with a gilmer belt drive off the cam stub, but the unit you discribed comes without an advance mechanism (race only) and by the time you get the "kit" to set it all up with advance it comes out to about $365.00 US...........so I may have to modify a traditional HEI unit. Challenges are fun aren't they.
Thanks, Russ
[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 09-30-2006).]
