Originally posted by bubbajoexxx: UPDATES WHERE ARE THE UPDATES
Sorry Bubba, been having too much fun driving lately, but I have a few updates...
Bought the new compressor you found for me:
Adjusted the accelerator pumps with 3 washers so the diaphram is flush with the housing. Success - now when you hit the gas quickly it yanks your head back instead of hesistating first:
Just picked up the custom two piece front trunk I had made to give Erin some storage space. It's still to be installed up front between the spare tire compartment and the A/C condenser.
Today I joined the Fiero guys for the Niagara wine route cruise - I'll post those pics here soon
Originally posted by Jefrysuko: You can tell your car is a little longer than the others in this pic. What's the matter? Couldn't back in as far as the rest?
Back in with that motor in the rear view mirror? I pulled in forward and let the stretch do the rest
Well, my son and I drove to kart racing in Hamilton last night and I finally developed a couple gremlins... After winning the feature (coming from last to first by the way - "if ya ain't first, yer last..."), I went to start the car and no juice. Turned out to just be a loose battery connection, but this was the cause:
Looks like the weld let go holding the battery tray. Then about 10 min from home at high revs I blew a rad hose connection, and luckily I limped home without overheating the engine:
As you can see, it let go at the clamp, so the temp went up quickly and the oil pressure guage stopped working:
In case anyone was wondering why I was reving the engine high, I was testing new timing settings and leaner idle jetting after feedback at the last cruise that I was still running rich and the spark plugs had confirmed that. Anyways, it should be an easy fix to flush and fill the cooling system - any tips on how to burp/bleed all the air out of the system with this setup?
Install an inline fill cap where that pipe is. I bought one for my N* from Jegs or Summit. I had pipes that would come apart like that in the past, so I just put a weld bead around them to form a lip. After the bead was there I never had another problem. Sean
Not much to report - very busy at work this time of year.
Cooling system is fixed and is basically self burping - something I won't miss on this Fiero... I found another A/C condenser, so if this one doesn't leak, I can progress on my front trunk project:
Also scored a spare hood that I can use for a future vent project if I get inspired over the winter:
Currently I have the battery out so I can repair the tray and perhaps install my battery box. Here is the new portable MIG welder I picked up for the job:
Had a nice visit with Bubbajoe today to pickup parts for the Roadster project and a DVD with over 2,200 full quality pics of the build - let me know if you need a copy of something. Next week I'm planning to drive the Northstar Stretch up to Toronto to take him for a ride - should be a blast.
I finaly got to go for a ride in the stretch and this car is absolutly amazing it far surpassed my expectations for handling and bracking it corners like its on rails hard into a corner and it is litteraly glued to the road i HAVE OWNED CORRVETTES AND JAGS AND IT OUT CORNERS THEM BOTH hands down the geomitry of the suspesion is so tight it will not lean out in tight turns and it has no sway bar in the rear I thank ryan for taking me out this ride made me feel like a millon dollars seeing the hard work i had done for 4 years was well worth the pain and suffering I went though to get it as far as i did Ryan I hope you the best and hope you keep up the work towards getting it painted it is an amazing ride
many thanks for making my day worth while I truly enjoyed the ride all the best bubbajoexx
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx: I finaly got to go for a ride in the stretch and this car is absolutly amazing it far surpassed my expectations for handling and bracking it corners like its on rails hard into a corner and it is litteraly glued to the road i HAVE OWNED CORRVETTES AND JAGS AND IT OUT CORNERS THEM BOTH hands down the geomitry of the suspesion is so tight it will not lean out in tight turns and it has no sway bar in the rear I thank ryan for taking me out this ride made me feel like a millon dollars seeing the hard work i had done for 4 years was well worth the pain and suffering I went though to get it as far as i did Ryan I hope you the best and hope you keep up the work towards getting it painted it is an amazing ride
many thanks for making my day worth while I truly enjoyed the ride all the best bubbajoexx
Bubbajoe, Thanks for the kind words - I am grateful for your efforts everytime I drive the car because it gets lots of attention and more importantly puts a on my face! I think you're being modest, because the car handles and performs exactly the way you envisioned, designed and engineered it to in your head. After reviewing the DVD you made me with 2112 pictures of the project, I was reminded of the constant improvements, redesigns and rebuilds that happened along the way. For example, the orginal design incorporated a modified Fiero cradle and shock towers. That has since envolved into a totally custom rear chassis featuring a C5 suspension. It was very satisfying for me fulfilling a promise to get the car on the road - taking you for a ride was icing on the cake. Of course I've made another promise to return soon and take your wife for a ride in the N* stretch too (notice I worded that sentence very carefully)
The project will continue to envolve (just not at the pace it did with Joe) but that's ok because I'm going to have it a long time. We are already planning more mods together and Bubbajoe invited me back so he can mentor my progress.
Yesterday's mod was a hood swap to the ZR1 style. It needs some minor repair work, but I think it really suits this car that already features Corvette rims, brakes and rear suspension. I also wanted to balance the body mods front and rear while ensuring it still looks like a Fiero - hopefully a Fiero Supercar when completed in paint.
Tim Horton's coffee's are essential during every visit:
Now I've got my third SHREK colour part (chin spoiler, rims, and hood) so I've got some sanding and filling to do before grey primer.
Bubbajoe is excellent at sourcing me the parts I need so I'm sure to have more updates shortly.
Purchased the Trans AM V8 instrument cluster to correct the tach (thanks to Bubba for finding it in Courtice for me) I now have the V6 one available if anyone is going to do a Firebird dash swap with a V6.
Now I need to find a 87-88 Fiero DIS speedo so I can get the Trans AM speedo modified to work. (If anyone has one, please send me a PM)
Yoo dude that thing looks sweet! I only lurk the Pennocks on occasion and I found this car, very cool man! I am eager to see more pics of your project.
------------------ '87 GT *Show winning* sold '98.5 BMW M3 Dakar Dinan '89 BMW 325I Zinnoberrot
.....thanks to Bubba for finding it in Courtice for me....
Courtice? Jeeze, you were out near my neck of the woods! Did you drive the fiero out there to pick it up?
I hope not, ....that means I missed a chance to see it
------------------ 1986 Pontiac Fiero SE 3.4L | The Fiero Blog (Since April 2000) ----------------------------------------------------------- My Portfolio site | JustinChristie.ca
Originally posted by SLAMMED87GT: Yoo dude that thing looks sweet! I only lurk the Pennocks on occasion and I found this car, very cool man! I am eager to see more pics of your project.
Wow, a lot of posts for a lurker I always liked the Fiero you sold, and in fact I was into BMW's before Fiero's and owned a 535i and a 635csi.
quote
Originally posted by justinchristie: Courtice? Jeeze, you were out near my neck of the woods! Did you drive the fiero out there to pick it up? I hope not, ....that means I missed a chance to see it
Went straight from work in Markham Justin, but I was born in the shwa and still have family there, so I'll look you up when I'm in town with the ride.
Went straight from work in Markham Justin, but I was born in the shwa and still have family there, so I'll look you up when I'm in town with the ride.
Ryan
Ah yes, the "SHWA". Born and raised here. I lived in courtice for 2 years, but the shwa is like the CIA. You can leave, but you'll never REALLY leave. LOL
Next time your in town, give me a shout, I'll swing by to the see the ride.
------------------ 1986 Pontiac Fiero SE 3.4L | The Fiero Blog (Since April 2000) ----------------------------------------------------------- My Portfolio site | JustinChristie.ca
Excellent job on building your Fiero.. I love what you have done to the car.. Is that rear glass from a Rx7?.. I have owned several Rx7's and a Porsche 944, that glass looks a lot like the glass on 2nd gen Rx7's..
Its almost hard to recogonize the car as a Fiero the way you have modified it.. Great job..
Excellent job on building your Fiero.. I love what you have done to the car.. Is that rear glass from a Rx7?.. I have owned several Rx7's and a Porsche 944, that glass looks a lot like the glass on 2nd gen Rx7's..
Its almost hard to recogonize the car as a Fiero the way you have modified it.. Great job..
Its from a 3rd gen Camaro or Firebird, both the same rear glass
Well, I didn't have much luck swapping the A/C compressor today. The pulleys were quite different (3 groove vs. 4 groove) and diameter was also different. I was going to swap them when I realized that the 4 mounting bolt holes are also off in length and width.
I'm used to not getting the right replacement part on the first try, but hey these custom projects are full of parts bin stuff...
Thanks to skoon (and Bubbajoexxx for encouraging me), I now have the complete 88 front suspension add to the project to-do list.
This upgrade IMO will:
1. Add some front end weight I am looking for to replace since the rad was removed (the brakes have more to give if they don't lock up) 2. Allow for a tighter turning radius (currently very bad with the offset of the Corvette calipers contacting the shocks) 3. Still allow for a future adjustable coilover upgrade 4. Use more common Camaro/Firebird Gen 4 wheel bearings/hubs vs. the Corvair ones to retain the big brakes. 5. Better suspension geometry (castor/camber) in the front to help catch up to all the improvements in the rear.
I've also read that many people prefer the steering wheel "feel or feedback" and lighter steering effort at parking lot speeds. Let's not start a flame war on the 84-87 suspension vs. the 88 - as I'm not saying a modded earlier suspension can't be as good...
This will be yet another future mod that distances the project from the stock Indy I guess...all I need to do now is drive 11 hours to pick it up Fiero2m8
Well, I didn't have much luck swapping the A/C compressor today. The pulleys were quite different (3 groove vs. 4 groove) and diameter was also different. I was going to swap them when I realized that the 4 mounting bolt holes are also off in length and width.
I'm used to not getting the right replacement part on the first try, but hey these custom projects are full of parts bin stuff...
swap the clutch over to the new one and bring over the bracket and i will retofit it to the new compreeor for you
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx: swap the clutch over to the new one and bring over the bracket and i will retofit it to the new compreeor for you
Might have to go that route Bubba - is this difference going to be a problem, or is only an adapter needed?
quote
Originally posted by spark1:
Another item to check is the service port O-Ring size. The 57495 discharge port is 1/2" and the suction is 3/4". The ports on the 57470 both appear to be 1/2". Here's how the O-Rings look:
If you ever drive the Stretch on I-80 through Iowa in it I am sure there would be a lot of people who would like you to make a stop near Des Moines. You have carried the torch well.
Might have to go that route Bubba - is this difference going to be a problem, or is only an adapter needed?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by spark1:
Another item to check is the service port O-Ring size. The 57495 discharge port is 1/2" and the suction is 3/4". The ports on the 57470 both appear to be 1/2". Here's how the O-Rings look:
57495 Port O-Rings
57470 Port O-Rings
[/QUOTE]
no as long as the bolthole for the lines line up I have all kinds of orings to fit a thicker diamiter oring will do the job
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx: no as long as the bolthole for the lines line up I have all kinds of orings to fit a thicker diamiter oring will do the job
Thanks I'll check that out when I pick them up.
quote
Originally posted by RACE:
If you ever drive the Stretch on I-80 through Iowa in it I am sure there would be a lot of people who would like you to make a stop near Des Moines. You have carried the torch well.
Well I'm driving to Nashville at the end of January but I'll have to bring the van in order to pickup the 88 Front Suspension in Charlotte, NC during the trip. Thanks, Fiero2m8
Originally posted by jscott1: Nice progress you have here. Glad everything is working out for you. My mods are all in the planning stages...not so much in the doing.
Thanks jscott1, but mainly I'm aquiring parts for spring mods due to the temp outside and how busy I've been at work...
quote
Originally posted by HC: Organizing an inventory of Fiero parts sounds like a bunch of fun for some reason... maybe its the good looking shelves...
Thanks HC, "The Fiero Room" is all stocked with my parts, just have to label each bin since they're all full!
Well the temp warmed up from 30 to 60 degree within a day or so - I went out to check on the project and found this to sour my mood
Not good, somehow the rear vertical window is completely cracked/shattered and I don't even know how it happened...
So I went inside and decided to work on modding the starter by removing the flange lip to allow for more adjustment. Here's the before pic:
Since it's a gear reduction starter, I couldn't easily fit it in the lathe, so I used a 6" cut off wheel and a file while it was mounted in the Workmate: Here's the after pic:
BTW - Bubbajoe, please let me know what starter this is from for future reference - I thought you said VW or Audi but can't remember year or model etc.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year everyone Fiero2m8
Well the temp warmed up from 30 to 60 degree within a day or so - I went out to check on the project and found this to sour my mood
Fiero2m8
Wow! That's strange. I'm guessing your car isn't parked in the garage, right? Was there snow on the car? Did you warm the car-up prior to this happening?
[This message has been edited by madcurl (edited 12-28-2008).]
Originally posted by madcurl: Wow! That's strange. I'm guessing your car isn't parked in the garage, right? Was there snow on the car? Did you warm the car-up prior to this happening?
Right MadCurl, unfortunately it's been outside lately under a car cover. Yes there was snow on it, but I didn't even open the car or start it before I noticed it - I saw it as soon as the cover came off.
Right MadCurl, unfortunately it's been outside lately under a car cover. Yes there was snow on it, but I didn't even open the car or start it before I noticed it - I saw it as soon as the cover came off.
Was it maybe a run it, park it, then quick cold front? That's the only think I can think of that might do it, but even that's a stretch...
If all things being the same (parked, N*, glass hatch) #020 shares similar designs. The only major difference is mine is parked inside the garage. It's interesting that the front windsheild didn't crack too
If all things being the same (parked, N*, glass hatch) #020 shares similar designs. The only major difference is mine is parked inside the garage. It's interesting that the front windsheild didn't crack too
Which brings a question I've had to the surface of my little brain... Wouldn't having the engine bay sharing space with the rear window present more heat directly on it, and thus cause this problem? I've often wondered that, but never had a reason to surface the question until now. I realize there is a certain amount of heat with a regular decklid after being parked, but this kind of design seems like it exposes that rear glass to much more heat... Curly, have you noticed any kind of (even slight) sagging or warping of the butyl in that area on #20? Also, #20 is chopped, and this one isn't, meaning a new rear glass, and smaller rear glass surface area... right?
Originally posted by fieroboom: Which brings a question I've had to the surface of my little brain... Wouldn't having the engine bay sharing space with the rear window present more heat directly on it, and thus cause this problem? I've often wondered that, but never had a reason to surface the question until now. I realize there is a certain amount of heat with a regular decklid after being parked, but this kind of design seems like it exposes that rear glass to much more heat... Curly, have you noticed any kind of (even slight) sagging or warping of the butyl in that area on #20? Also, #20 is chopped, and this one isn't, meaning a new rear glass, and smaller rear glass surface area... right?
Hi Fieroboom, nice to hear from ya. The car hasn't run or been moved since December 6th when I pulled the the starter. The summer and engine heat didn't bother anything. It's not vandalism as only the inner glass is damaged and car was locked. All other windows are fine. Custom2m4's theory seems sounds and those conditions did exist recently. There is good ventilation in the rear compartment, while the cabin ventilation is limited but shouldn't pressurize enough to crack the window. Here is my latest guess... The rear hatch doesn't have weatherstripping on it - I think snow melted and ran in the channel near the vertical window and refroze at night causing pressure at the edge of the glass??? Another possibility is it broke when the hatch was closed on that cold day December 6th and I didn't notice. That seems less likely because I didn't slam the door or hatch and I would expect a crack over a shatter in that instance.
Anyways, I'm already thinking proactively on determining what the best mod improvement will be It's definitely an opportunity to get rid of the vertical window rear defroster! Keeping in mind the rearview mirror visibility was already very poor due to the current height of the engine, I have a few options:
Some of my ideas include: A roof scoop into the engine bay A plexiglass rear vertical window. Speakers and/or amps mounted above the seats with a clear window in the centre or any combination of the above
Photoshoppers are welcome to post any design ideas - here's somes pics to work from:
Fiero2m8
[This message has been edited by Fiero2m8 (edited 12-29-2008).]
Hi Fieroboom, nice to hear from ya. The car hasn't run or been moved since December 6th when I pulled the the starter. The summer and engine heat didn't bother anything. It's not vandalism as only the inner glass is damaged and car was locked. All other windows are fine. Custom2m4's theory seems sounds and those conditions did exist recently. There is good ventilation in the rear compartment, while the cabin ventilation is limited but shouldn't pressurize enough to crack the window. Here is my latest guess... The rear hatch doesn't have weatherstripping on it - I think snow melted and ran in the channel near the vertical window and refroze at night causing pressure at the edge of the glass??? Another possibility is it broke when the hatch was closed on that cold day December 6th and I didn't notice. That seems less likely because I didn't slam the door or hatch and I would expect a crack over a shatter in that instance.
Anyways, I'm already thinking proactively on determining what the best mod improvement will be It's definitely an opportunity to get rid of the vertical window rear defroster! Keeping in mind the rearview mirror visibility was already very poor due to the current height of the engine, I have a few options:
Some of my ideas include: A roof scoop into the engine bay A plexiglass rear vertical window. Speakers and/or amps mounted above the seats with a clear window in the centre or any combination of the above
Photoshoppers are welcome to post any design ideas - here's somes pics to work from:
Fiero2m8
Ok, whew. At first I was worried that as a result of your stretch, there was undue stress at the bottom of the window from the upper frame rails, forcing it to shatter after a period of the frame settling, but now I have a revised theory... Having recently removed my rear glass, and seeing how little steel there is around it, I believe the culprit is your driver side hinge (or maybe both hinges), in conjunction with the stress from the compressed struts of the closed hatch. My basis for this theory is how you have the hinge mounted:
And the striations, or shattering pattern of the glass:
Note how the general pattern moves outward from the hinge... If you didn't reinforce that upper lip where the hinge is mounted, then I'm not surprised at all that it shattered; in fact, I can't believe it took that long. If you carefully measure the height differences between the roof & hatch (in closed position), I can almost guarantee that the hatch is just a gnat's ankle higher than the roof. Also, you could closely inspect that upper lip, and I'm pretty sure it'll be slightly bent upward where the hinge mounts. With the weight of the hatch, it may not seem like it, but those struts have massive amounts of force, and can cause some crazy stress at their mounting points, as well as the hinges they work with. Have a look at a factory installed set of struts... the mounting points are pretty heavily braced, and so are the hinges (I can show you pics on my Caddy's hood if you want).
Anyway, I hope this is all taken in the light of a helpful opinion, because that's how I mean it! Under normal stresses and circumstances, that glass shouldn't have shattered. I'm pretty certain the fact that it shattered is a big clue to a bigger problem, and just replacing it with Lexan isn't going to fix whatever made it shatter, and could produce worse symptoms later on, like a crack in your fiberglass on the roof or hatch.
That's my opinion, and I'm stickin to it! Let me know what you think. -Paul
- now when you hit the gas quickly it yanks your head back instead of hesistating first:
