Stock 88 units are disassembled to get the mounting plate for transfer to the new unit. Notice how much larger and stronger the centre shaft will be once the conversion is complete:
dam I own a page again update for Ryan here are the pics
[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 07-29-2010).]
no more plastic caged ball bearings full tapered roller bearings and races when i disassembled the stock fiero units they came with plastic cage ball bearings and the cages showed signs of melting from lack of grease this new setup eliminates the plastic parts and give true roller bearings and a 1 1/8 stub shaft and 5X4 3/4 bolt circle
a couple of pics showing the shaft size change and new bearing
as seen in the pics the bearing is now a presision roller bearing insted of a cheep plastic low quality ball bearing
[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 08-09-2010).]
So how much machining was required to the 88 hub housing to accept the bearing pack from the caddy bearing? I probably will do this mod myself some day...
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 07-30-2010).]
So how much machining was required to the 88 hub housing to accept the bearing pack from the caddy bearing? I probably will do this mod myself some day...
simple squaring the bottom of each bearing bore as they have a ball radius the has to be removed then put it together
Ryan a little tip clear all the paint off before you mig weld any pieces together as the paint will contaninate the weld and make it a poor weld prone to fail
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx: Ryan a little tip clear all the paint off before you mig weld any pieces together as the paint will contaninate the weld and make it a poor weld prone to fail
Thanks for the tip Joe, I do know this but when I reviewed the pictures they do look misleading Will post more before the paint goes on.
no more plastic caged ball bearings full tapered roller bearings and races when i disassembled the stock fiero units they came with plastic cage ball bearings and the cages showed signs of melting from lack of grease this new setup eliminates the plastic parts and give true roller bearings and a 1 1/8 stub shaft and 5X4 3/4 bolt circle
What were these hubs for originally?
------------------ yellow 88 GT, not stock white 88 notchie, 4 banger
these are american made caddy rear hubs for 79 to 85 seville part number 513009 if not made in the usa they will not work as the china ones can not be disassembled
Hey Ryan, I'm going to follow your path with the front swap. I should have mine next weekend, then the fun begins (again). I will probably be shooting some questions your way, if that's not a problem.
OK fellow members when you need parts machined I have found a freindly shop that can make just about any thing you need at prices we all can afford the contacts name is Joe Sarafian and his site is www.rapidparts.ca I have had him make an engine adapter and flywheel for me modifie bearing housings and flanges also , excellent work fast turnover and prices take make your wallet happier give him a try when you need custom parts flywheel concentric rings for brakes bearing mods and so forth
here is a pic of the latest adapter made for me
[This message has been edited by bubbajoexxx (edited 09-01-2010).]
Hey Ryan, I'm going to follow your path with the front swap. I should have mine next weekend, then the fun begins (again). I will probably be shooting some questions your way, if that's not a problem.
Bob
No problem Bob, between Bubbajoe and I you should get all the answers you need to be successful.
OK fellow members when you need parts machined I have found a freindly shop that can make just about any thing you need at prices we all can afford the contacts name is Joe Sarafian and his site is www.rapidparts.ca
Originally posted by Alex4mula: Wow! This thread is 7 yrs old! Keep the good work.
Thanks Alex, slow but still going...
I stopped by Joe's and gave him the spindles. He graciously offered to fab up the caliper adapter brackets now that the hub bearing units are complete.
So I had a change of heart and decided to powder coat the Corvette C5 rear suspension. Once again I figured now's the time since it's all apart and would look better with some time and money. Now it matches the front suspension in the silver / clear and will be lower maintenance to keep clean. I don't have OCD so aluminum polishing isn't in my future plans...
Here are the results:
Rear UCA's
Rear LCA's
Rear Spindles
Subframe (view from top)
Subframe (view from bottom)
Engine cradle
I think I'll install some new bushings and then I'm ready to rebuild the rear end.
Sorry to keep posting my junk here, but I may have answered my question on the locating pin...My 84 does not have one, but this one appears to have one (my cross-member is definitely different as the centers to the mounting point are punched out):
Your's is an 84 Indy, correct? But I take it you had a locating pin?
edit: A little investigation revealed that my chassis has a hole on each side that could be locating holes. The cross-member does not.
Bob
[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 11-28-2010).]
Originally posted by RCR: Your's is an 84 Indy, correct? But I take it you had a locating pin? Bob
Hi Bob,
Yes the locating pin is key to ensure the correct position is for side/side and fore/aft placement - do not cut it off. I posted that picture to show why the holes needed to be redrilled or elongated (to be in line with the locating pin). There are two methods of doing this swap - redrilling the frame or redrilling the crossmember (I chose the latter).
Originally posted by Erik: Bubba do you think the hub housing is at least as strong as it was before the caddy bearing/races were installed?
Hi Erik, Other than squaring off the bearing lip for the caddy roller bearings vs the concave design the stock ball bearing needed the 88 housing are unmodified. Therefore since the bore is the same and no other material removed the answer would be yes. Ryan
Yes the locating pin is key to ensure the correct position is for side/side and fore/aft placement - do not cut it off. I posted that picture to show why the holes needed to be redrilled or elongated (to be in line with the locating pin). There are two methods of doing this swap - redrilling the frame or redrilling the crossmember (I chose the latter).
Ryan
Thanx Ryan, What threw me was my original cradle not having the pin. I didn't realize the chassis had the holes until I crawled under to remove the back cross member.
Second question...Back cross member...It doesn't look like anyone puts it back in...I was looking at it and it doesn't seem structural, but as a gaurd for the gas tank. Any concern not having it?
