Unbelievable. Just spent almost the whole day going through this thread. My body hurts just from reading all this, I can only imagine the pain of building it. How many years? Hours? Dollars? Amazing, my hat is off to you both, along with my shirt, shorts and rhinestone studded thong.
Ben
Thanks Ben,
newest project by bubbajoexxx Started on : 09-12-2003 06:18 PM Replies : 2639 (279174 views) Last post by : Fiero2m8 on 04-19-2011 02:21 AM
I remember reading the whole thread as well and can relate. We don't keep track of hours because it's a hobby, but please don't remind me about the dollars
Update, the intakes have been resealed to eliminate vacuum leak:
Originally posted by Gokart Mozart: I've wondered about the coolant tube crossing the engine bay. It's a bit distracting. What about running it along the side and rear and painting it black?
Thanks to donation from Bubbajoe, this mod request is now officially on the list
This is looking really good. You'll have to post on here what shows you're attending this year, I'd really like to check this out in person when it's complete.
This is looking really good. You'll have to post on here what shows you're attending this year, I'd really like to check this out in person when it's complete.
Brad
Thanks Brad, will do.
BTW, Table of Contents on page 55 is updated to end of page 66.
BTW, Table of Contents on page 55 is updated to end of page 66.
Any chance you could get Bubbajoe to add the table of contents to the first post on page 1... I sometimes forget which page it is on and have to go searching for it.
Any chance you could get Bubbajoe to add the table of contents to the first post on page 1... I sometimes forget which page it is on and have to go searching for it.
1. What do these wires connect to? (comes out of frame and then splits to red plug and red wire - can't remember if I cut it or it dead ended in the wire loom)
2. Where can I buy a replacement linkage? (it was seized and it broke when I tried to adjust it shorter...looks like something from a hobby shop)
Working on carb tuning, fixed a small fuel leak on the return line. I have vacuum at the PCV valve now pulling evenly from the 8 ports - if I measure and adjust it, any ideas how much vacuum the pcv needs at idle? Also I started balancing idle airflow on the 8 barrels using the unisync guage. 7 of 8 are close and just need balancing between barrels per carb, but cylinder #8 the airflow is high and bouncing up and down. Cylinder 7 is steady and a little low so I can't fix it with the idle speed screw for 7 and 8. Also they are outside the adjustment range of the air bypass balancing screws on 7 and 8. Going to check the fuel pressure as I suspect it's at 4psi and that is the first carb after the regulator. Dellorto book says it should be 3 psi and anything over 3-1/2 will cause spillover - hopefully it's that easy. If not that, I'll be checking for partially plugged idle jet circuit, vacuum leaks, spark plug condition etc. Once the idle speed is done, I'll be adjusting mixture on each barrel to find the sweet spot between lean snaps and rich smoke. I already adjusted from 3 turns out for initial startup to 1-1/2 turns out (leaner).
For dialing in the initial timing and 3000-8000rpm not sure how I'm going to baseline tune that without a dyno. Book suggests 12 inital and 24 degrees progressive as baseline settings for a SBC while I was running 0-4 initial and 18-22 previously on the Northstar. Obviously I don't want hard starting or detonation, but enough advance to get the best horsepower - any suggestions will be helpful.
Mostly I'm thinking out loud here and more reading and tinkering will help keep things going in the right direction. I realize that most Fiero owner don't have to tune 8 cylinders individually but hey if you were at the 25th, you can vouch that the exhaust note is uniquely worth it
1. What do these wires connect to? (comes out of frame and then splits to red plug and red wire - can't remember if I cut it or it dead ended in the wire loom) [not used for cruze control]
2. Where can I buy a replacement linkage? (it was seized and it broke when I tried to adjust it shorter...looks like something from a hobby shop) no they are throttle hem joints may have 2 left here
Working on carb tuning, fixed a small fuel leak on the return line. I have vacuum at the PCV valve now pulling evenly from the 8 ports - if I measure and adjust it, any ideas how much vacuum the pcv needs at idle? [12 to 18 inches] Also I started balancing idle airflow on the 8 barrels using the unisync guage. 7 of 8 are close and just need balancing between barrels per carb, but cylinder #8 the airflow is high and bouncing up and down. [check the air bleed may be pluged with paint ] Cylinder 7 is steady and a little low so I can't fix it with the idle speed screw for 7 and 8. Also they are outside the adjustment range of the air bypass balancing screws on 7 and 8.[check srew by removing it and make sure the bleed hole is not pluged] Going to check the fuel pressure as I suspect it's at 4psi and that is the first carb after the regulator. Dellorto book says it should be 3 psi and anything over 3-1/2 will cause spillover - hopefully it's that easy. If not that, I'll be checking for partially plugged idle jet circuit, vacuum leaks, spark plug condition etc. Once the idle speed is done, I'll be adjusting mixture on each barrel to find the sweet spot between lean snaps and rich smoke. I already adjusted from 3 turns out for initial startup to 1-1/2 turns out (leaner).
For dialing in the initial timing and 3000-8000rpm not sure how I'm going to baseline tune that without a dyno. Book suggests 12 inital and 24 degrees progressive as baseline settings for a SBC while I was running 0-4 initial and 18-22 previously on the Northstar.10 and 28 for nstar max power total 38 degrees at 7 thou Obviously I don't want hard starting or detonation, but enough advance to get the best horsepower - any suggestions will be helpful.
Mostly I'm thinking out loud here and more reading and tinkering will help keep things going in the right direction. I realize that most Fiero owner don't have to tune 8 cylinders individually but hey if you were at the 25th, you can vouch that the exhaust note is uniquely worth it
Is this plug also cruise control related or is it for something else (i.e. lighting) or not used?
I could be wrong... but I think that plug was for the original electric trunk popper, and the trunk light. Don't think it was for anything else, unless thats a different plug?
Here's a video of the carb idle air balance issue on cylinder #8:
Since the problem couldn't be corrected with the air balance bypass screws, I removed the carb to bench reset the butterfly valves. I removed, cleaned and the swapped their bores:
Then I used the 0.003" feeler guage to set the gap on the tighter barrel, then slowly bent the throttle shaft until both sides fit the guage like a glove. Now I should be almost perfectly balanced and any final adjustment can be done with the air bypass balance screws:
offset is moved out 1/8 of an inch for the corvette rotors and calipers but you can remove 1/8 from the bearing stop to retian stock offset
Is the hub circle size the same as the stock 88? The reason I am asking is I would like to use my current wheels which have the 57.1 mm hub centering circle and the 5x100 bolt pattern Could a 5x100 bolt pattern be drilled on the caddy hub flange? I am desperate to do this mod if possible as my stock hub is getting noisy
[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 05-01-2011).]
A new spark plug has been released for use in the above vehicles. The new spark plug has an Iridium tip instead of the current Platinum tip. Due to the different tip design, the gap of the spark plug has also changed. The new spark plug, P/N 12571164 with AC Delco P/N 41-985, is gapped to 1.01mm (0.040 inches) when the spark plug is made. The spark plug gap is set during manufacturing and should not be changed or damage to the spark plug may result. Any new spark plug found to not be properly gapped should not be used. GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information. WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION
wont work with his HPV 1 as it requiers a gap of 32 Thou 40 will cause problems he requiers stock GM AC Delco plugs
Ah yes when in doubt read the manual...HPV 1 manual says 32 thous for stock V8 and 30 for hi-performance street. So I guess I need an AC Delco part number of a non-platinum plug that has the right specs for a Northstar (size and heat range) that I can gap to 30-32 thou.
In the meantime, I have reduced the idle jets from 58's to 52's and turned in the mixture screws to half turn out. After engine running at operating temp for a while plugs are changing to a tan colour.
With the carb reinstalled this time I've been able to balance all barrel to identical smooth airflow reading. Only remaining issue is #8 barrel makes a whistling noise that sounds like an open vacuum cap. When the uni-sync guage in placed on the velocity stack it mutes the sound. Since only this barrel makes this noise, I think there is still something minor going on.
Is the hub circle size the same as the stock 88? The reason I am asking is I would like to use my current wheels which have the 57.1 mm hub centering circle and the 5x100 bolt pattern Could a 5x100 bolt pattern be drilled on the caddy hub flange? I am desperate to do this mod if possible as my stock hub is getting noisy
I have to order and pre pay for the caddy hubs so I would really appreciate it if you could measure the hub and let me know, thanks!
With the carb reinstalled this time I've been able to balance all barrel to identical smooth airflow reading. Only remaining issue is #8 barrel makes a whistling noise that sounds like an open vacuum cap. When the uni-sync guage in placed on the velocity stack it mutes the sound. Since only this barrel makes this noise, I think there is still something minor going on.
You might be able to hear it in this video:
you have a small blockage on the idle air port a good run will clear it nothing to worry about
No problem. Do you think the hub pilots have enough thickness to be machined down to 2.25?
Do your wheels have a removable concentric ring? All my aftermarket rims came with them, so when I swap hubs, I just swap out the concentric ring on the wheel.
[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 05-04-2011).]
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx: told you you had a bent throttle shaft balance is good now
Yes it just needed a bench tune as you said - another + for bubbajoe
quote
Originally posted by bubbajoexxx: you have a small blockage on the idle air port a good run will clear it nothing to worry about
Ok I'll move on to other stuff and keep an eye on it after some use
quote
Originally posted by Erik: No problem. Do you think the hub pilots have enough thickness to be machined down to 2.25?
I'd say not a 1/2" look at the picture:
Last night I was working on the stainless rad hoses: There is a local hydralic hose place that I going to have the one end resealed on both hoses now that I've cut them to proper length:
Routing with look something like this:
This is the highest point in the system their was no fluid in the hard crossover pipe - a little concerning? Since the other hose connects to the bottom of the passenger rad I drained the DEXCOOL from the system in preparation for the swap.
Do your wheels have a removable concentric ring? All my aftermarket rims came with them, so when I swap hubs, I just swap out the concentric ring on the wheel.
Yes they do except for one which was a shipping error. I just slighty reamed it out and it fit so, I measured the OD of the ring they are 2.88 so its just a matter of getting concentric ring, thanks for the heads up. But, I will still have to change the bolt pattern spacing to 5x100 hopefully there is room to do so. If you can, please look and tell me if you think that is feasible before I order the hubs, thanks again!
@ Erik: Erik, I had asked Joe about finding a hub that used a 5x115mm hub instead of the 5x4.75" that Ryan used. He recommended: 86 and up caddy rear bearing buick riv olds 88 5X115
This might have a smaller flange that you can work with.
This is the highest point in the system their was no fluid in the hard crossover pipe - a little concerning? Since the other hose connects to the bottom of the passenger rad I drained the DEXCOOL from the system in preparation for the swap.
What about using exhaust hangers to hold the tube away from other parts. I'm sure you can mount them upside down so the tube is on top.
86 and up caddy rear bearing buick riv olds 88 5X115
BEWARE most GM replacement bearings even oem come from china and you want USA made only
Joe, new question.... Is there a way to tell if the hub is rebuildable (nut instead of crimp) without taking the hub out and popping the back cover? I found a 2004 Buick Century wtout ABS (pn 512221) and the spec sheet looks perfect. I just do not know if the bearing comes apart.
Joe, new question.... Is there a way to tell if the hub is rebuildable (nut instead of crimp) without taking the hub out and popping the back cover? I found a 2004 Buick Century wtout ABS (pn 512221) and the spec sheet looks perfect. I just do not know if the bearing comes apart.
thanx for any help...
Bob
In my experience, no. I recently bought a made-in-USA, Timken 513018, non-ABS, 5x115mm hub from Rock Auto. Upon pulling the cover, I discovered it is a crimp-style hub, with ball bearings instead of rollers, and the crimp collar has the teeth for ABS. I suspect they are consolidating parts to save money, so the only difference between an ABS and non-ABS hub is the sensor and cover. So you really can't tell until you pull the cover.
In my experience, no. I recently bought a made-in-USA, Timken 513018, non-ABS, 5x115mm hub from Rock Auto. Upon pulling the cover, I discovered it is a crimp-style hub, with ball bearings instead of rollers, and the crimp collar has the teeth for ABS. I suspect they are consolidating parts to save money, so the only difference between an ABS and non-ABS hub is the sensor and cover. So you really can't tell until you pull the cover.
Are there any 5x115 hubs that use roller bearings? AMC Eagle front hubs use dual tapered rollers and are repackable, but they're 5x4.5.
