Placed another order from CB Performance to complete jetting fine tuning and some backup service parts and gasket / o-ring kits. The O-rings on the Jet Doctor Kits are poor quality and size, so use the Dells from the idle jet tubes instead IMHO.
Order Details:
10 - 7274 Dellorto DRLA Parts Locator - Pump Jet O Ring $0.50
2 - 7269 Fuel Injection Hardware - Left Side Throttle Return Spring $4.95
2 - 7268 Fuel Injection Hardware - Right Side Throttle Return Spring $4.95
A couple years ago I had an indy Fiero decal made in silver without the red in it. This weekend it was satisfying being able to install it:
On the flipside, it was frustrating installing the door decal parallel to the door molding and later realizing it looks crooked due the sloping door molding in relation to the door skirt. Don't make the same mistake I did!
So I decided the OFFICIAL PACE CAR door decals need to be removed and/or replaced as the stance/rank of the car makes the decals appears even more crooked:
I tested to see what the actual Medium Gray Metallic decal would look like on my paint:
Kinda reminded me of a stealth/ghost police car:
Since I only have part of the grey one (dog ate the rest) I decided to order a pair in Black Metallic. I'm thinking they will suit my exterior colours dark grey & black better without contrasting as much as the silver did. Anyways I will pick them up tomorrow and see how they look (cool or tacky). This is all personal taste stuff so sometimes trial and error is the best
Also had the alignment rechecked and it's now good to go for the 30th trip next week
CB out of Farmersville CA? That is up the road from me. I cant tell how much money I spent on my money pit VW Baja. Fun project. It had two 48 Dells. At that time they were like $500 for the two with linkage.
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Originally posted by Fiero2m8:
Placed another order from CB Performance to complete jetting fine tuning and some backup service parts and gasket / o-ring kits. The O-rings on the Jet Doctor Kits are poor quality and size, so use the Dells from the idle jet tubes instead IMHO.
Order Details:
10 - 7274 Dellorto DRLA Parts Locator - Pump Jet O Ring $0.50
2 - 7269 Fuel Injection Hardware - Left Side Throttle Return Spring $4.95
2 - 7268 Fuel Injection Hardware - Right Side Throttle Return Spring $4.95
I saw your car in Welland Friday evening & wondered if other viewers would be interested in the construction story as well... Have you considered posting a PFF reference link on your car at shows?
I saw your car in Welland Friday evening & wondered if other viewers would be interested in the construction story as well... Have you considered posting a PFF reference link on your car at shows?
Hi David,
Yes usually I just tell them to Google my license plate as it is my PFF name. However some business cards or an info board are considerations once I'm not working on project itself so much With over 3000 posts and 330,000 views, the car is better know online than in real life, but I intend to work on that discrepancy in years to come. Here's a picture from the Welland cruise night at Seaway Mall Friday evening...
CB out of Farmersville CA? That is up the road from me. I cant tell how much money I spent on my money pit VW Baja. Fun project. It had two 48 Dells. At that time they were like $500 for the two with linkage.
I use their Dells tech book as well written based on VW applications. I'm in the market for a spare DRLA 40mm carb if anyone knows of one at a reasonable price.
Yes fuel injection would have probably been cheaper, but sometimes it's more fun having a unique combo to tinker with...
So I ended up ordering up some new indy decals and applied them on the weekend just in time for the 30th at Indy...
The decal varies from almost invisible to sparkling in the sun depends on the light and your viewpoint. Camera doesn't pick it up so you can give your opinion if you come to the 30th and see it with your own eyes
Of course it always comes down to wire for a big road trip but we ended up pulling and cleaning, rebuilding and regasketing my problem whistling carb that wouldn't tune.
After a lot of time, money and effort this weekend, success! Finishing the dyno tuning tomorrow and will report jetting and timing for my records. It's exciting to hear it responding so well to the tune. Time will tell what the hp and torque figures are at the rear wheels.
In hindsight, I should have captured a dyno pull after timing was advanced and pulled it up to rpm redline. Anyways this graph will show the torque and horsepower curves pretty well. Most important was the air/fuel mixture throughout the tuning session.
Well as you may have noticed in the GFC section, I made the 1000 mile round trip to the 30th driving the Newest Project aka Fiero2m8 aka "the Bubbajoe car". Pleased to announce no mechanical issues over the 5 days in the summer heat caravaning with the Greater Toronto Fiero club. Only incident was managing to hit large roadkill Sunday night near London, Ontario damaging the front spoiler. Later I'll decide whether to repair it or come up with a new mod - main issue is I'm about out of paint so it might end up being black or a carbon fiber look.
Here are some of my favourite pictures of the car taken during the 30th Anniversary trip:
Now that cruise season is over, the upgrades have started.
I broke a CV joint for the second time so removed the axles:
In order to use larger stronger CV joints from a 911 or 944 Turbo (that will fit my axle spline), first I needed larger stub axle flanges that still fit in the 901 transaxle. After some research with Bubbajoe, we found a Porsche 912 set of 100mm diameter 6 bolt flanges that still have the large splines I needed.. Below are pictures of the Porsche 914 flanges that are 94mm and 4 bolt and the new ones purchased on eBay.
Old
New
This method should adapt without modifying the custom axles or the need for an adapter plate.
My son Andrew gave me a hand swapping the transaxle to the rebuilt one. We started by transferring the accessories like the shift rod linkage clutch arm, throwout bearing and slave cylinder mount. Then it was time to swap the 914 stub axle flanges to the larger 912 units:
Then we bolted in the transaxle:
Next steps are hooking everything up then axles with new CV joints and boots can be reinstalled...
Thanks Joe for the correction, since you found them on eBay for me, you would know. Not only did Bubbajoe sell the newest project at a reasonable price, he continues to provide tech support 5 years later
Tonight I installed the starter and when the engine wouldn't crank, I knew there was trouble...
First I checked the alignment but that wasn't the problem as it engaged fine but couldn't turn the flywheel.
Then I was concerned that the larger flywheel might be contacting the transaxle bell housing, but upon removal flywheel still didn't turn.
Next removed pressure plate and clutch. Despite being back to square one, I did find the problem.
For some reason 4 of the 8 crankshaft bolt holes are countersunk deeper than the others making those 4 bottom out at torque spec preventing the flywheel from turning!
The machining wasn't consistent and here I've marked them L=Low and H=High.
Now I have to choose a solution to resolve this from a few options, keeping in mind neutral balance is what is needed. Not impressed as the machining wasn't cheap!
I have one on the shelf that I can measure this weekend.... I forget how thick the Northstar crank flange is. There's about a 10mm gap between the flange and the #5 main bulkhead. You can shorten the bolts 5mm and not lose any thread engagement OR shorten them 10mm and still not lose any strength as the flange is much thicker than the diameter of the bolts.
However, you've bottomed some bolts out on the rear main bulkhead. I've done this myself, so I speak from experience. The noses of the bolts have left imprints on the bulkhead and may have affected bearing bore roundness or alignment.
Now I have to choose a solution to resolve this from a few options, keeping in mind neutral balance is what is needed. Not impressed as the machining wasn't cheap!
Can't you just add a lock washer to the bolts in the low holes to bring the heads up closer to the others or just shorten the bolts? You could have some press fit spacer sleeves added to the short holes as well... There are several options that don't require a new flywheel.
Next removed pressure plate and clutch. Despite being back to square one, I did find the problem.
For some reason 4 of the 8 crankshaft bolt holes are countersunk deeper than the others making those 4 bottom out at torque spec preventing the flywheel from turning!
A) Why does it look like the holes in the flywheel are threaded?
B) The threads on that bolt look severely galled... Are the threads in the crank ok?
C) Those look like metal chips on that bolt... Is that correct and where did they come from?
Next removed pressure plate and clutch. Despite being back to square one, I did find the problem. The machining wasn't consistent ........
I know that pics can play tricks on your eyes, but it looks like the center hole is counterboared off center or the 5 flywheel holes are off center? It looks like some of the flywheel holes are cut into by the center counterboar hole and some are not? If they were all centered, all of the flywhel holes would have the same amount of intrusion from the center hole. Sorry if I see it wrong.
[This message has been edited by Rickady88GT (edited 11-20-2013).]
The 8 Caddy crank holes in the flywheel are not threaded - my son was liberal with the loctite but I've since cleaned the holes out. The threads in the crank are fine, the bolt was spray painted with metalflake paint and the flash is misleading. The bolt length problem was solved using 5/16" washers I modified in a drill press to fit perfectly. Prior to making the washers (to see how thick I needed), I tested the bolt for bottoming. During the last cap screw rotation the low ones pushed the crank endplay outward (you can see the rear main seal move slightly). The 5 holes (that are not used) are not perfect in the making of the adapter but the crank flange to ring gear distance is true.
The washer solution worked well and all threads are still used through the crank flange - here are the pictures in chronological order:
Flywheel bolted up well and bolts clearly not as countersunk as before.
I rotated flywheel 360 degrees to ensure rotates freely and true given there is little clearance:
New issue is that I haven't been able to align the starter! This flywheel has a new replaceable ring gear while the old flywheel teeth were quite worn.
Clutch, pressure plate, transaxle and slave cylinder back in:
Unfortunately, my project to change the final drive ratio in one of the transaxles didn't work out. The plan was to have one transaxle setup for highway cruising at low revs and leave the other stock for best acceleration. The ring and pinion I bought on eBay thought to be from a Porsche Sportmatic had a smaller diameter ring gear that wouldn't fit the differential.
Here's an interesting convertible I saw this summer while visiting Wiarton, ON on business. They have a local cruise night weekly down at the waterfront:
The owner showed me the soft top which consists of two fiberglass T-tops and vinyl from the rollbar to the firewall. It also had the soft sail panels that snapped into place near the engine vents as part of the design.
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