Whodeanie and madcurl, considering the wheels you guys have, I'd probably use some lugs that offer a little more security than those SD lugs. The "key" for SD lugs are typically universal; even if they're custom splines, a 19mm thin-walled socket will take them off effortlessly.
I am not worried about someone trying to take the wheels. this car lives in my garage and when I get it done to take it to shows it will be in an inclosed trailer. if I was going to drive the car as a DD I would have locks on it.
if they want to break in to my garage to get them then they will have to get past the alarm, cct, my wolf! and my 12ga.
Are you using Fiero bearing hubs, or are they larger than stock? Rear also?
they are stock size. the front uses rear bearings with a big bolt threw them. and the rear are just new replacements. Erik will make them in different bolt patterns as well like the ones he built for Curly to fit 5 x 4.5 bolt patterns.
I talked with Erik today, what a great guy. He told me the main reason for using the rear bearings up front is availability. The fronts on the '88 are very hard if not impossible to find and the rears he uses can have new hubs (they make their own) drilled (not redrilling old ones) for any bolt pattern. That means no adapters for Porsche wheels like you are having to use Rob
Did I understand Erik correctly Dean? It also means much less expensive wheel choices in larger sizes.
I am not worried about someone trying to take the wheels. this car lives in my garage and when I get it done to take it to shows it will be in an inclosed trailer. if I was going to drive the car as a DD I would have locks on it.
if they want to break in to my garage to get them then they will have to get past the alarm, cct, my wolf! and my 12ga.
Sounds like they're a lot more secure than I thought lol
I talked with Erik today, what a great guy. He told me the main reason for using the rear bearings up front is availability. The fronts on the '88 are very hard if not impossible to find and the rears he uses can have new hubs (they make their own) drilled (not redrilling old ones) for any bolt pattern. That means no adapters for Porsche wheels like you are having to use Rob
Did I understand Erik correctly Dean? It also means much less expensive wheel choices in larger sizes.
Yes! thumbsup: if I did not already have my wheels I would have had him make mine with the 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern that way I could have used a lot of differant wheels like Corvette or Camero wheels that you can get all day long for under 500 bucks. don't get me wrong I love the wheels I have and even if I had the other bolt pattern I would have still ordered these for mine. here is another + about the differant bolt pattern, you can use the Corvette roters without having them re drilled. D.
Why is a large bolt needed through the middle? The 1" billet adapters were only $75 ea. The most economical way to change bolt patterns. 3/4" is possible if the wheels have hollow spaces between lug holes. But, it will widen the track necessitating flares or widebody mods.
Why is a large bolt needed through the middle? The 1" billet adapters were only $75 ea. The most economical way to change bolt patterns. 3/4" is possible if the wheels have hollow spaces between lug holes. But, it will widen the track necessitating flares or widebody mods.
The big bolt is needed because the rear bearings are normaly held together by the rear axles. if it is not there they will just come appart.
I was kinda wondering what happened, but I was trying not to say anything. I hope all is well!
I am fine, things at the glass shop have been slow so to help make some money I am working for a friend as a forman for jobs he has going and it has kept me out of town a lot. D.
I talked with Erik today, what a great guy. He told me the main reason for using the rear bearings up front is availability. The fronts on the '88 are very hard if not impossible to find and the rears he uses can have new hubs (they make their own) drilled (not redrilling old ones) for any bolt pattern. That means no adapters for Porsche wheels like you are having to use Rob
Did I understand Erik correctly Dean? It also means much less expensive wheel choices in larger sizes.
I believe the '88 front bearing/hubs can be purchased from both Fierostore & Rodney Dickman. But, the hub surface looks to be too small to redrill for a larger bolt pattern. Since he already machines new rear hubs maybe he can do the same for the front... don't know if the sealed bearing design is an issue.
I believe the '88 front bearing/hubs can be purchased from both Fierostore & Rodney Dickman. But, the hub surface looks to be too small to redrill for a larger bolt pattern. Since he already machines new rear hubs maybe he can do the same for the front... don't know if the sealed bearing design is an issue.
Rob, give Erik a call he would be glad to help with any questions. here is his # 616-893-1433 D.
Yes I did! I know I took the long way around but I have never been a big fan of fender flairs. and I needed to do it to match the nose better and get rid of some of that wedge look on the front of the car as well.
I was able to do some work on the car this weekend. I fitted the console in the car and cut the lower part of the dash out for clearance. I will be moving the center part up. I will get some pic's later this week and post them. D.
Last night I was able to get some pic's not all that much to see, I fitted the console and to do so I had to cut the lower dash and move it up. at this time it is just sitting in place because I am still deciding where I want it to go. I am also working on a 355 style cover to go on the column that I made using a real 355 cover. it will take some work but I will get it. D.
How far did you have to move the dash center? I know from before that spyderdash sat pretty low on the tunnel.
once I cut it appart I had to move it up about 1-1/2" up and about 3/4 out from the dash. then I cut the center up and took an inch out of it. the stock setup has 3 gadges on the top and the stereo on the bottom. on my set up I am going to use a nav. Kenwood that is larger and I will make custom gadge pods for the Apiller. D.
What ever one is done! if any? the way it looks at the moment if I can get enough money together to finish the DD and the trip I will most likely bring that one. I would love to bring the choptop but I would rather not just slam it together for the show just to take it back appart to finish it right. D.
Ok, here is a little update for all. I have been working on the DD as of late to get it done and back on the road soon. but I have not given up on the choptop. the one thing I will say about my choptop is that it is always changing at least my plan for it is. it is moving forward slow at the moment but I will be getting back to it very soon full tilt. Rob AKA Amida is working on some more parts for me that I will have back soon. here are some pic's that he sent me last night. what I did was send him the gadge cluster from my car and had him overlay carbon fiber on to it so it would flow with the console he built for me as well as make me a flat piece to use for the trim around the head unit. D.
This is a little late for the hub chat, an hope you don't mind me interjecting some two cents worth, but not sure if anyone has checked into this as a hub solution or not, but I looked up hubs for a C5 vette, and they're basically just like the Fieros, only bigger. Some years had the 3 bolt mounting like the Fiero, an some had the 4 bolt mount design. Seems like if you are using those custom knuckles, you could drill some more mounting holes for the larger bolt pattern to mount the vette hubs. Also there is the knuckle from the 6000 that is a bolt on for the rear of the 84-87 that accepts the front hub from the S-10 4X4 which is bigger and has the vette lug pattern. Using the S-10 outer axle stub with the Fiero axle is an easy upgrade for those stump pulling engines that want to rip the factory Fiero hubs apart and gives you the more common wheel bolt pattern.
Kudos on the incredible build. Inspiration for all. Thanks