the front cross member was beefed up a little more and the ends of the tubing capped. it should hold ok...
there has been a little progress on the upper mounts. had to put the swaybar and right suspension with axle on to check for clearances. on the forward one the engine will be supported by both the head and the block. on the rear one the engine will be supported by the head only.
[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 05-11-2012).]
so far i am. it is not the greatest idea because they weigh a ton. i should have weighed the cradle before i started, it feels much heavier now. I will weigh it when I am done and compare it with a weight that someone can post for me. i will be very suprised if the engine ever pulls out of the mounts. going for overkill...
[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 10-02-2004).]
Well, when I am building my mounts I am sure I will also go a little over what is needed. But then again I do that with everything I do "I HATE redoing stuff"!!!!!
By the way what rubber mount is that again, is that a Dodge truck mount? ------------------ Bobby from NW Indiana 93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag thespeedshop@sbcglobal.net My build thread
[This message has been edited by GSXRBOBBY (edited 10-05-2004).]
I pulled the front of my motor apart to see just what I wanted to do tonight as far as running the belt and I think I am going to run it close to what you did. However, I was thinking of just mounting the idler pulley on the head?
Do you know what the part number is for the grooved Idler pulley you used Snoopy or what auto and motor its from? Also, I was wondering what the stock size belt is?
This is the way I was looking at running the belt, I was thinking I may be able to just use the stock bent?
------------------ Bobby from NW Indiana 93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag thespeedshop@sbcglobal.net My build thread
I wanted to be sure of your routing. I have mine routed like this. I am pretty sure that is the stock routing with the exception of the idler pulley instead of the pwr strng pump pulley.
this pic shows why I did not bolt the pulley to the head. it would have interference from the tensioner and the bolt that holds the alt bracket.
I don't remember the stock size belt, the auto store guy told me about a month ago and I think it was around 83" or so. but you can call and ask your parts guy. the belt that is working for me is 74" long. the fiero v5 a/c compressor has a slightly smaller pulley than the caddy HR-6 compressor. also my a/c compressor is moved out about 3/8" or so further away from the crank than stock. because the a/c compressor is out further, the alt may be out further also but i did not have the stock brackets to compare it with. the idler pulley is a DAYCO brand # 89014 109mm 6 grove pulley. it took four trips to the store to get the idler and belt size correct...
[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 05-11-2012).]
the cold is mostly gone. i had the fun of cleaning the outside of the trans. then cutting the starter notch. I got started on this because the spec flywheel and clutch came in last week. the flywheel had to go back for another one but they really look sharp! so this time the trans should be ready to go on when the flywheel shows up.
starter notch. this was not too hard to cut and shape with the trusty dremel.
one pretty clean trans. no paint for this thing. it will match the engine this way.
[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 05-11-2012).]
now here is what showed up today... wish me luck please...
Where did you order from? What do you think of the price/quality/service? I've been pricing out exhaust components lately, trying to decide where I want to go through.
Where did you order from? What do you think of the price/quality/service? I've been pricing out exhaust components lately, trying to decide where I want to go through.
Bryce 88 GT
SPD - specialty products design, inc. 11252 Sunco Drive Rancho Cordova, CA 95742-6515 1-888-778-3312 (toll free) 916-635-8108 (phone) 916-635-2970 (fax) email: info@spdexhaust.com web: http://www.spdexhaust.com/
these guys were recommended to me and I have only used them this one time. I think the quality is outstanding. the exhaust flanges look beautiful. I compared prices from summit and these guys were slightly more but summit did not have everything i needed. Their webpage is not complete so you can go down to the bottom of the home page and download their catalog in .pdf format. the price guide is below the catalog. I highly recommend that you look at buying from these guys. they were very friendly and helpful on the phone. keep in mind that this is the first time I have bought an exhaust system in parts to be built.
edit: i wanted to add that the exhaust header flanges and exhaust tube flanges are CNC cut and not stamped out crud... that pic above does not do them justice.
[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 10-19-2004).]
You got the exhaust pointed in the wrong direction! They should be pointed up like a top fuel dragster - look wicked cool at night! Nice weld bead by the way. It's like watching American Chopper.
more work on the exhaust manifolds. after figuring out what length to make the primary tubes the shaping of the ends and cutting of the log portion is in progress.
here is the flange and primary tubes cut to length and mounted on the engine to check for clearance.
here is the other exhaust manifold in progress...
[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 05-11-2012).]
It's not that long a time till you try and test fit this into the engine bay, so I was curious if you already have???? If so, or not, do you think there will be clearance issues?? What kind?? Any trunk cutting, things like that ya know...
It's not that long a time till you try and test fit this into the engine bay, so I was curious if you already have???? If so, or not, do you think there will be clearance issues?? What kind?? Any trunk cutting, things like that ya know...
hi pavo-roddy,
I have had the engine on the subframe and in the car more than ten times since I started. most of the cutting issues to clear the block are shown on page one. the only reason for going through all of this time and effort to make the exhaust manifolds is to save the bottom of the trunk. I could have used the stock manifolds and crossover pipe but I would have had to changed the passenger side CV joint at the tranny for a smaller diameter one and also I would have had to cut out the bottom of the trunk. as it is, I don't think this exhaust will be any better than the stock one. maybe even worse because of all the tight radius bends that i will be using. it is a learning experience though and rewarding to see it going together. too bad I don't know how to weld better...
I fit the engine into the car yesterday to see how the 180 degree bend on the rear exhaust manifold was going to work and it is too low. when the suspension compresses all the way the sway bar pushes up on the rear exhaust manifold. there is room to move it up and out of the way though. I pulled the injectors off of the intake manifold and fuel rail. they look pretty good. later today they will go to the local shop for cleaning and flow checking. a new fuel pressure regulator will be bought if I don't buy the custom fuel rail that the guy in Canada is making for the Toystar.
Thanks guys! I hope it's ok to clean the weld bead down and cut the pipe on the weld. If that works ok then I can position the pipe higher and get the clearance needed to miss the sway bar. I was hoping to start this thing before Jan 05. That may still happen but it will be close. Too many other things going on that have to get done...
By the way, I took my Northstar off the engine stand today to install the flywheel, if there is any pictures you need to compair yours to a Northstar just let me know? Glad to hear your still moving along, by the way take your time now, winter is here so do it right, or thats what I keep telling myself?!?!?!?!?!
------------------ Bobby from NW Indiana 93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag thespeedshop@sbcglobal.net My build thread
Looks great! Best luck to ya. I'm impressed with the quality of your work.
On another note, I bought a '95 Aurora with the 4.0 in it. It runs like a scalded dog even in this big ass car. I was just wondering if anyone knew what horsepower and torque the engine has. Thanks for the info. Peace.
Phil
------------------ I am always available to help those that need help. Since my back injury, I cannot work on many of the aspects of the cars, but I can offer the knowledge of my 27 years as a GM technician. Bring the questions on................!
By the way, I took my Northstar off the engine stand today to install the flywheel, if there is any pictures you need to compair yours to a Northstar just let me know? Glad to hear your still moving along, by the way take your time now, winter is here so do it right, or thats what I keep telling myself?!?!?!?!?!
Winter? What's that? We don't have winter in Phoenix!
Originally posted by GTDude: Looks great! Best luck to ya. I'm impressed with the quality of your work.
On another note, I bought a '95 Aurora with the 4.0 in it. It runs like a scalded dog even in this big ass car. I was just wondering if anyone knew what horsepower and torque the engine has. Thanks for the info. Peace.
Phil
thanks GTDude, if I stand back about 5 feet or so it looks pretty good, but up close... well that's a little different. the aurora should put out 250hp and 260 ft/lbs of torque. i don't know what to expect with this setup...
quote
Originally posted by KitKar: Winter? What's that? We don't have winter in Phoenix!
it's a beautiful thing isn't it? GXSRBOBBY may get a chance to see what we mean.
By the way, I took my Northstar off the engine stand today to install the flywheel, if there is any pictures you need to compair yours to a Northstar just let me know? Glad to hear your still moving along, by the way take your time now, winter is here so do it right, or thats what I keep telling myself?!?!?!?!?!
Thanks GSXRBOBBY,
when i get the chance to try the 2nd new flywheel out i will know if I can use your pics. for now it looks like it will work great!
mmmmmmmm 250 hp and 260 ft lbs of torque would put a smile on my face that a brillo pad couldn't take off.........lol......in my Fiero of course. Can't wait to hear what you say about the seat of the pants feel you experience the first time you KICK IT! Good luck and peace.
Phil
------------------ I am always available to help those that need help. Since my back injury, I cannot work on many of the aspects of the cars, but I can offer the knowledge of my 27 years as a GM technician. Bring the questions on................!
not much to report, been in training all last week and into next week. got the injectors cleaned though. these were from a $75 95-99 caddy N* intake complete with injectors, injector harness, t/b and fuel rail (stock plastic one) it was obvious that this intake had been sitting around for some time. I took the injectors in yesterday afternoon and got them back this afternoon.
in the receiving flow check this is how they did. #1-_90ml, #2-_98ml, #3-_98ml, #4-_92ml, #5-100ml, #6-_98ml, #7-100ml, #8-_99ml. not too bad for sitting around so long.
after cleaning this is how they did. #1-_97ml, #2-_98ml, #3-100ml, #4-_96ml, #5-100ml, #6-_98ml, #7-100ml, #8-100ml. not too good though after cleaning...
but the engine should run pretty good with the injectors flowing within 4%. and now we know they are all working too.
[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 05-11-2012).]
I was able to grind down the weld, cut, reposition and re-weld the 180 degree bend in the rear exhaust today. as usual the weld looks like crap...
I have noticed that the cradle is much more difficult to put in lately. I am guessing that when I put in the front crossmember I must have cut it too short. I checked both sides of the front cradle attachment points and sure enough it is not wide enough for a good fit anymore. approx 3/16" each side. dohhh! I will have to see what I can do about that. I may have to cut the front crossmember out and start over on it... next time I cut the piece to fit with the cradle bolted into the car....!
[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 05-11-2012).]
I was wondering how well you'd kept the cradle straight while doing all that work...
When I did mine, I didn't fully cut out the factory X-member until the new X-member was completely welded in.
in my simple way of thinking, I had hoped that the 1/2 inch all-thread would keep the correct width up front. I suppose the correct way to do it would be like you did or fab a jig, then weld.
When we talke don the phone the other night I was going to ask you this but forgot. Did you or how did you support the cradle when you cut off the front cross memeber? I am using some threaded stock and have been wondering if that is going to be enough?
------------------ Bobby from NW Indiana 93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag thespeedshop@sbcglobal.net My build thread
Nice diy headers btw... I could't build those things if I tried.
