I checked on gmpartsdirect.com and the aurora stainless fuel inj. rail is $86 and the regulator is $35. They are much lower than when I first checked on them last year so along with 2 sets of inner and outer dew wipes, I ordered the fuel rail and regulator...
I spent all day yesterday changing the door skins on the 86 to the yellow 88 doors. I cleaned off the window tracks and regreased everything. The power windows seem a little smoother and the door locks actually work on the first push of the button. Now I just need to order the trim and molding fastners from the Fiero store and this will actually look like a fiero on the outside. The interior still needs to be finished but now that it is drivable and out of the garage, I can get back to work on the real project. I suppose the title should be changed to aurora 4.0L in a 88 GT...
Updates: The exterior on the 86 is done, whew! I did not spend any time lining up the panels so it could be better but overall it looks great! I used modified plastic door retainers for the sail panel frames. They are not as secure as I would prefer but they are holding on ok and no glue was used. I bought all new dew wipes for the two cars inside and out, it is amazing how different the "fresh" rubber feels compared to what was left on the old ones. The last pic is the new Aurora stainless fuel rail. I bought enough stuff to redo the headliner on the 86 (no sunroof) and after the interior parts are installed along with the dew wipes, it is essentially done and the real project can be finished. (I don't know if anyone sells the windshield cowl but until I get a nice one for the 86, I am saving the only decent one for the 88) I did not remember how much fun it is to zip around in a Fiero until I got back into one! I was going to sell the 86 but now I will have to keep it until the 88 is driving...
[This message has been edited by cptsnoopy (edited 05-11-2012).]
Originally posted by cptsnoopy: ... the idler pulley is a DAYCO brand # 89014 109mm 6 grove pulley.
Mr. Chuck Morris...
I just picked up one of these idler pulleys so I can reroute the belt for AC, and to use the stock tensioner location (so I need a new one anyways). Do you have any more pics of your idler bracketry? The mounting hole on this tensioner is huge! (1/2"?) What did you use for centering? I'll have to go through your long thread, because you might have mentioned this stuff already... but 9 pages! gah!...
I will have to see what I did. IIRC, for temporary fitting I just used an extra couple of nuts, the outside diameter was close enough. I will need to get a bushing turned to fit inside the bearing correctly for actuall use.
I just need to verify that your talkiing about the uppermost idler that is in place of the power steering pump pulley? If so, I made a bracket to position the pulley so the belt would clear the body of the tensioner and also the alternator mounting/dogbone bracket. There is a bolt hole near the pulley in the forward head but it would cause the belt to rub on the belt tensioner body. I used only one bolt to hold the bracket on along with a retainer plate that slides under a boss on the engine block. It seems like it will work ok but I won't know for sure until I try it out. I also tried to keep the bracket on one part of the engine just in case expansion could be a problem so it is only attached to the block. There are pictures about 1/3rd the way down page two and then a couple more after the bigger pulley and an additional gusset were added to finish it up further down the page.
I will have to see what I did. IIRC, for temporary fitting I just used an extra couple of nuts, the outside diameter was close enough. I will need to get a bushing turned to fit inside the bearing correctly for actuall use.
send me the dimentions you need and I'll whip one out on my lathe. I'm getting bored at work this time of year
Thanks for the offer Russ! I dug out the pulley and adaptor plate. It looks like I have it spaced out from the plate with a combo of washers and a nut. I have to go to work or I would take it apart and measure up the inner diameter and distance from the plate. Maybe tomorrow night...
I know I have said this a couple of years in a row... But, If all goes well, the work on the Aurora will resume on the 19th of Nov. The goal for this winter is to at least get it plumbed and wired. Maybe even fired up once. The exhaust will need some more work before it is road worthy. I made all the exhaust mounts solid and I did not consider expansion. I will have to see what kind of soft mounting system I can conjure up to make it work.
Bump...cause this is a great thread, and now, I have a '97 Aurora 4.0 sitting in my garage.
Bob
Hey! That sounds cool... What are you going to put it in?
I just got back from tearing out the wiring from one of the donor cars (86SE) so we can give the rest to the trash man... Once that is done I can get started on the 88 with a clear conscience.
Kind of a long story, but I traded with my Dad. I get the 4.0 and an 86 GT and he gets my completed 3800SC. The 4.0 is going in my 84.
I've got some crazy ideas on what I want to do. I'm eager to get started, but I have a couple little projects in front of it. There will be a build thread.
When I started I wanted to leave the trans in its stock location on stock mounts. The idea being that the soft mounts could help absorb the sharp shocks and improve the life of the trans. If I hard mounted the engine then I would have to hard mount the trans so I decided to try something new and put the engine on soft mounts. When I found that the replacement trans mounts were rather expensive and hard to find, I used (I think darthfiero's idea) the same dodge rubber mounts for the trans. The sad part was after fabbing most of the mounts, a report came back that the dodge mounts pull apart quite easily and they are not such a good idea to use. Instead of starting over, I fabbed up the front and rear dogbone mounts to limit the amount of movement and hopefully keep the dodge mounts from seperating. This was a bandaid fix though. I have never been a fan of solid mounting an engine but enough reports of smooth running and no problems with the solid mounted N* engines have led me to believe it is not a bad idea after all.
I dug the 88 out of its place under tons of junk in the garage. I did not get much done other than some general cleanup. After looking in the engine compartment I decided to ditch the stock firewall insulating material even though it was in pretty good shape. That way I could get to the battery tray where it is spot welded to the firewall and trim it off. That, followed by a little flat black and it looks ok. Cox.net stopped supporting MS frontpage so I need to learn how to use pip. after that I can start posting pics again...
Looks black .... Thanx for the info. I'm sure I'm going to use rubber mounts, I'm just not sure how I'm going to go about it yet. I'm thinking 3 trany mounts (4L80) one on either side and one on the end, and two engine mounts. I also really want to use the Aurora suspension and cradle, but it's not going to be easy to connect to the Fiero mounts (but what is??).
Bob
edit: I just noticed you boxed your hinge...Good idea. I was thinking of moving it but I like this idea better.
[This message has been edited by RCR (edited 12-18-2006).]
You could always do what I used to do onmy Chevelle...
A couple links of chain from the bottom plate of the mount to the top plate. If it tears the mount, the chain will restrict it's movement.
------------------ Kendall (Icelander) Whitlatch '85 Fiero 2M4 - 5spd Isuzu '67 LeMans/GTO clone 6.5 litre TH400 All the rest aren't Pontiacs, so what does it matter?
since i just got a 4.0L motor and its going to be hooked to a isuzu, im curious to see how your's is coming along with the isuzu 5 speed.
matthew
It's still in slow mode. The landscaping and general house repair became top priority. If nothing else gets on the list I will get to work on it again.
87 Fiero GT 5sp with Vortec L35 4300 Turbocharged V6 Bully Stage 2 clutch Syclone intake manifold and engine management with Moates adapter and chip burner Air/water intercooler and Devil's Own progressive water/alky injection 50lb injectors, 3 bar map sensor, Walboro fuel pump and Jabasco Intercooler pump LM1 wideband on custom manifolds and 3" stainless exhaust system T31/T04B S4 turbo with a Super T61 in the box S10 caliper conversion. Murphy's Constant Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value Murphy's Law of Thermodynamics Things get worse under pressure. Arthur C. Clarke "Any significantly advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic"
I have been to busy with work so I made a deal with a company and I am going to ship my car to your house and I am going to have you finish it.....so make some extra time.
------------------ Bobby from NW Indiana 93 Northstar and 5 speed Getrag NEW e-mail address ankerenterprises@sbcglobal.net Anker Enterprises L.L.C. My 86 GT build thread MY 88 Northstar build thread
A little safety TIP is all.. as I wouldnt want you or anyone to get hurt PERIOD..
Crank up the heat some more on that welder OR turn down the wire speed.. the welds looked rather well until I seen this one below... Your bracket making skills however are EXCELLENT !!!...
GRIND all your corners so theres a notch to fill and kinda stitch the wire back and forth working from the thicker steel over to the thinner stuff.. It's harder to heat up the thick so it needs to melt first THEN be bled over to the thinner stuff faster.. - 90% of welding is the pre-grinding to insure a good connection and a place to pool the blob..
If both metals are the same thickness hit it hard, hot and slow in the corners where you ground. - What you will get is a flat pool IF the welder is set correctly.. live and learn! aw hell just PRACTICE ! - Exhaust was schweeet !
A few questions: Is this a gas mig? whats the amperage? what voltage are you set at? what model welder? Gauge of wire? .023? .035?
If you go with a 220 Volt say Millermatic 251 it's like night vs. day..
[/QUOTE]
Not bustin your chops but this one looks like you were moving too fast or in a rush... OR ran out of gas?
Most of the connection is surface.. not penetration.. (bottom tab with the one bolt in it) Dont be afraid to go slower across the joint.. Just lower your wire speeds.. or get more heat.. try all sorts of levels until you find the sweet spot.. when you do.. WOW !
The twist of that motor would rip it clean off and only a light ring would remain where "some" of it connected..
Been there.. done that ! - Ride safe.. and make it in a Fiero...
PS: Hope you find another engine..??
[This message has been edited by BERKELUSA (edited 05-05-2007).]
Thanks for the tips. I did most of the welding without gas using a Lincoln-110 wire-feed. I switched to gas just about the time the welds you show were done. That was the first side and it obviously did not do well. The other three sides did much better as I put the volts to the highest setting and cranked open the gas. I don't remember the exact settings but I think for most of the 1/4" stuff I was using the highest setting for volts, .35 wire(flux-core, no gas) and a wire feed setting of around 3 to 4. (maybe more speed on the wire feed, I just don't remember). When I went to the gas I started with too low of a gas flow and I also found that it did not penetrate as well. (I think that is common knowledge for those that know how to weld.) I found that with the gas and using solid .23 wire I had to up the wire feed quite a bit also. As you know this welder is not the greatest but if a person really knows how to weld they can make some stuff. (I am not someone that claims to know how to weld... ) We recently purchased a Miller 220volt wire feed welder. It is a much better setup but I cannot remember the model number at the moment. The big problem now is that I have to put it in my truck with help to get it over to my house. (oops, I don't know if the 220 for the dryer will handle the load... got to check that out also) I played with the new welder at my brothers house on a sandrail and even though it welds better I still need to practice with it more because I was still messing it up some.
Been a tad too warm lately to do anything on the 88. The HR-6 in my 86 seized up last week so out of 3 running vehicles I only have one with a/c. I ordered a new v-5 compressor along with the other 2 so I will have a/c when this thing gets running. (incentive)
That well be the next thing after setting up the clutch. I don't know for sure but I remember reading several threads regarding which hoses go where. I have not figured out what material to use for the hard line just yet. It has cooled off considerably the last week or so and this will allow me to get back to work on it.
I just grabbed the pass side coolant line off Kyle's (86SE) '86. I'll use a section of that across the crossmember. I also grabbed a mid 90's Grand Am coolant bottle that re-circulates coolant. That'll go on the pass side where the battery used to be. I still need to figure out all the routing. I pulled some images from other posts. I'll throw some pics up here unless you beat me to it...
Keep up the good work.
Bob
PS I think I found a pretty slick way to run the belt. I need to download the pics.
[/QUOTE]
