I'm flashing! . . . . . . . . . . My wideband controller memory, that is . I decided to not sleep Sunday night and get it finished up. As far as I can tell, everything is working correctly (no smoke, uh...that's always good ). Of course I have more testing to do, and calibration once the sensor actually gets here.
Woohoo it's moving along, I gotta check the tech section more often I spent my first day off on break making an adaptor harness for my car stereo. Nice when the electronics you made work, sin't it?
I can't wait to see/hear this thing run. It's gonna be screamin'! Maybe you mentioned this earlier, and I'm sorry if I missed it, but will this engine be very streetable? I noticed you mentioned revving it really high. Do you even plan on driving it outside of a track?
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Originally posted by FastIndyFiero: Word of warning, NEVER buy spray-on VHT caliper paint. I'm going to be spending part of tomorrow sandblasting a caliper.
What happened? I've had nothing but good experiences with this stuff.
I can't wait to see/hear this thing run. It's gonna be screamin'! Maybe you mentioned this earlier, and I'm sorry if I missed it, but will this engine be very streetable? I noticed you mentioned revving it really high. Do you even plan on driving it outside of a track?
What happened? I've had nothing but good experiences with this stuff.
-Steven
I'm going to try to keep it fairly streetable. With the electronic boost controller and the EFI, I can turn it down, so to speak. It probably won't have an idle to speak of, but it won't have to run on like 100 octane gas all the time. I do plan on driving it a fair amount.
With the caliper, I degreased everything with degreaser, then soap and water, then let everything dry, and made sure it was the right temperature, etc. I sprayed it on and it just wouldn't stick.
Well, the ice and no power thing kinda delayed what I was planning to do. This weekend, however, I want to get the engine and tranny mocked up on the cradle and set it up for moving the engine 3/4" over. I also recieved my fuel injectors, 75pph.
It's still been cold here, I guess it's still January after all (time to put the furnace back in the garage). I did a couple odds and ends to keep me busy when I wasn't getting started on school.
I worked on painting my calipers for a couple hours, still have one to do.
I have been wondering just what the hell these injectors that I got are. They are supposed to be domestic injectors, but what do import imjectors look like?
I have been wondering just what the hell these injectors that I got are. They are supposed to be domestic injectors, but what do import imjectors look like?
Those look like the injectors I pulled off my 4.9 Caddy motor when I sold them.
Fitting the manifold on the head. Need to trim up a couple areas on the manifold, but the die grinder froze up a while ago, and the dremel tool exploded. Darn, guess I need new tools.
The plan right now is to use MSD top-connecting fittings and clips for the injectors, and braided SS line going to each injector without a central fuel rail, only a distribution block. Then I'll have a chunk of 10AN braided line from there to my regulator, and Russel anodized aluminum 1/2" line for the regulator feed and return line. It looks perfect in my head, but I guess we'll see how the execution comes out.
Use 90 degree fittings on the outer two injectors as well and bring their lines up between the runners. That will keep the fuel lines out of sight and your engine looking clean.
Well, as of a couple hours ago, the decision has been made. I'll be using DIS, instead of my current MSD 6AL/GM heavy duty distributor setup. Lately I've been concerned about the effects of the distributor harmonics on the valve train at very high RPM. Not to mention my reluctance to spend another $200 on a BTM. Instead, I'll be putting that money where it will really count, MegaSquirt II and a Ford EDIS system. The MegaSquirt II has increased injector pulse-width control by a factor of 100, apparently, making it of particular use with my large injectors. It also has VERY good support for DIS. Basically it's a matter of mounting the crank position sensor and wheel, and stuffing the EDIS4 module somewhere. This way I will be able to control timing absolutely, not merely as a function of degrees retarded per lb of boost.
In the relatively short time I've been reading up on the EDIS system (compared to the rest of MegaSquirt), I am already sold on it. It will likely help HP levels, not to mention lengthen the lifespan of my cam and other components. At this point I am moving what was the last holdout of old management technology to a digital system, with fuel, boost, and spark all controlled electronically. Wish me luck.
I know, I know. It being a Ford system has its toll on me too. But it really is a good system with "mad tite" programmability. I'll just keep 3 or 4 backups.
damn this is gunna be crazy........i was thinking about doing a mpi swap on my conquest and i was gunna use a ford edis system and megasquirt...........megesquirt is deffinatly a cool program.
and the edis system is a wonderful device. it has the ability to operate completely standalone if there is no SAW input. stays at 10 degrees if it loses SAW.
why dont you just make a fuel rail? wouldnt that be easier than routing 4 different fuel lines? i may be wrong tho.....
------------------ Brandon Edmonds
1996 Taurus SHO (my baby) 1986 Ford EXP (goin bye-bye soon hopefully) 1986 Fiero (to be my street rocket) 1977 yamaha xs750-2D (in pieces right now, doesnt appear that it will be done for summer, unfortunately)
and the edis system is a wonderful device. it has the ability to operate completely standalone if there is no SAW input. stays at 10 degrees if it loses SAW.
why dont you just make a fuel rail? wouldnt that be easier than routing 4 different fuel lines? i may be wrong tho.....
For one thing, the injector bosses in the manifold and the ports themselves are not parallel. If I put in all the injectors parallel to each other, I would basically be injecting onto the port walls. With the injectors angled, I can't use a rail because I wouldn't be able to get it on/off. Another is, it's different, and I think it will look very cool and maybe a little bit old-school. Other than that, I have no problem doing plumbing. In fact, I think it's kinda fun, but who knows, maybe I have a couple fittings loose up top.
And yeah, the EDIS is pretty cool. The beauty of it is, besides its reliability, is it's not a hard install. There's the PIP signal running to MegaSquirt, and the SAW output going back to the module. A couple more wires to the crank sensor itself, and the coil pack. Easy stuff. So, do I get the MSD Blaster coil?
Edit: uh oh, looks like I may have spoken too soon. There may be a problem using EDIS above 8500rpm. More later.
Nate
[This message has been edited by FastIndyFiero (edited 03-04-2005).]
Well, I just took delivery of my K-type thermocouple. It will be driving an Autometer Carbon Fiber pyrometer, along with the WBO2 or Megasquirt dataloggers. I already tried it with my WBO2, fun stuff. My dad and I were going to work on the tranny spacer together today, but I ended up doing some plumbing for him instead. Not a very good tradeoff.
Well, so far I have yet to do a tangible piece of work the last two weeks. I am, however, working quite actively on getting a clutch/flywheel figured out, which is my main hurdle so far. It's getting much closer, and I can honestly say that I can see the engine and transmission becoming friendly with each other some time this spring or summer. (Hey, all those parts don't come free.) I'll give a hint where I am headed right now :
Well, I finally made some progress. It looks like a 1" spacer is going to be made, a flywheel made, and used with a 2-disc clutch setup. I got a bunch of measurements today, and made some decisions and what not. I'll just scan my scribblings when I'm more coherent.
Who makes that intake manifold an how much did it cost ,i would like to know if it could be adapted to a ECOTEC engines head ,so i could set a supercharger on top of it ,i wonder how many bolt would match up to the head
Who makes that intake manifold an how much did it cost ,i would like to know if it could be adapted to a ECOTEC engines head ,so i could set a supercharger on top of it ,i wonder how many bolt would match up to the head
Edelbrock made it, and it cost me $600 with a Fiero bolted up to it. Right now, I don't know where to find another one. I'll get a pic of the flange end, though I doubt any holes would match.
Well, I finally made some progress. It looks like a 1" spacer is going to be made, a flywheel made, and used with a 2-disc clutch setup. I got a bunch of measurements today, and made some decisions and what not. I'll just scan my scribblings when I'm more coherent.
What are you going to do about the starter? Will your old one still reach with the flywheel sticking farther out from the block than before?
What are you going to do about the starter? Will your old one still reach with the flywheel sticking farther out from the block than before?
I'll probably have to account for that with the flywheel. The back of the ring gear needs to be 1/4" from the bellhousing flange, so it's gonna be a funny-looking flywheel. The friction surface of the flywheel is set inboard pretty far, though, so I'll have plenty of space to transition from that to the lower outer edge where the ring gear will be.
I'm also going to look and see if I can just make an adapter to move the start farther in, but that might be as much trouble, since if I move it down, I'll have to move it closer to the block, as well.
Well, things have been going okay. I picked up a junk flywheel from an early Chevy a couple of weeks ago. The motor is still in its bag, need to get it out and test fit the flywheel.
I did find an intercooler, though. I'm not positive, but I'll know tomorrow. My Grand Am also picked a lovely time to blow a head gasket I believe. Nothing like more delays to keep me on my toes.
As of this morning, the cyl. head is at Saum Engineering. They're ordering valve springs and titanium retainers for it. Also going to have them port match it to the intake while it's there. Of course, with the season starting, the shop I use is swamped with high-$$$ race motors, so it could be up to a month before they finish it. I have other things to work on though.
Those are my new injector bosses. They'll solve some of my pesky fuel problems.
Of course, right now the big thing is actually getting the engine into the car, having a tranny spacer plate made, and getting the mounts made. After that are all the little things.
you going to weld those onto the edelbrock? or weld up a tube intake?
I'm going to spot face the existing bosses flat with the surface of the runner, then weld those on. I'd rather not deal with making another intake manifold. The last thing I have to deal with for the intake is getting these on and buying or welding up an elbow for the TB.
Believe it or not, I've been getting things done. SCE Gaskets should have my SD head gasket already. I've talked to them quite a bit already, and they should be able to make me a copper ICS Titan gasket for it. Summit Racing, in their infinite wisdom, doesn't see fit to send me my rocker arms until late June (thanks, Summit) . At least now I'm moving closer to an assembled long block.
I've been making my trans spacer plate in CAD. Does anyone have bellhousing bolt spacing measurements that I could bounce mine off of? I've expiremented with integrating a motor/trans mount into the plate, that will extend in front of the front crossmember. I'm not sure if it's a possibility as starter/trans/exhaust packaging will all be very tight. Who knows if it will make it into production.
The engine is nearing completion. I believe by the end of July it may be put together.
Here's my TB I purchased:
It's a 90mm Accufab TB for a Mustang. A chatter brought up the possibility that the large opening size of this throttle body could have a bad impact on air velocity when it transitions from the intake tube into the TB mouth. I guess I'll see!
I just got done talking to SCE, and they should have a Pro Copper head gasket with an integral combustion chamber O-ring (so I don't have to machine the block or the head) on the way in about 2 weeks. I figured if they held on a 286 CI SBC at 1800HP, 9000RPM, and 43lbs of boost for 52 dyno runs without leaking, they're good enough for me. Of course, I had to buy 2 of them to get them to do the production run. Figures. NOT cheap, but sooo typical.
Nate
[This message has been edited by FastIndyFiero (edited 06-02-2005).]
OK; have to ask: did you specifically ask for fuel injection line? I'm just a bit surprised to see that 1/2" anodized aluminum and I am wondering if it is for a carb'd application with the usual 6-7psi pressure. Better safe than sorry; but all the fuel inj lines I have seen have been steel... and you will be adding to the usual 40+ psi to overcome boost........ so you might be in the 50psi range or even more?
Just worth checking. An accident with that particular item would be especially ugly.
OK; have to ask: did you specifically ask for fuel injection line? I'm just a bit surprised to see that 1/2" anodized aluminum and I am wondering if it is for a carb'd application with the usual 6-7psi pressure. Better safe than sorry; but all the fuel inj lines I have seen have been steel... and you will be adding to the usual 40+ psi to overcome boost........ so you might be in the 50psi range or even more?
Just worth checking. An accident with that particular item would be especially ugly.
Rated for continuous use at 250 PSI. I'm not about to have ANY line burst. I have 20ft of Russell ProRace -4an line rated at around 1000 PSI that I will run to the injectors.
I'm not about to let ANY little line burst and cost me everything.
). Of course I have more testing to do, and calibration once the sensor actually gets here.
NOT cheap, but sooo typical.
