"doesn't matter where you've been....... doesn't matter where you're going...... just how cool you look gettin' there." Fonzy
Russ,
That was one of my favorite parts I remember from Happy Days. He was re-adjusting his mirrors so he looked cool, but would not be able to see what was behind him.
Things may have changed but if you use chrfab's steel flywheel i am pretty sure you will have to have it turned down because it is made for a rwd tranny. the spec flywheel is made for the fiero style fwd trannys. the price was about the same or slightly less for the spec flywheel early last year... that could also be different now.
Seems like I recall someone going through the hoops with the CHR flywheel and result was that they would now machine theirs to fit the Fiero application. I don't recall who that was however. I asume the Spec unit is aluminu, faced? If so I would be concerned with durability with the agressive Spec 3 type disk. how about the ring gear on the Spec.... steel or aluminum?
That was one of my favorite parts I remember from Happy Days. He was re-adjusting his mirrors so he looked cool, but would not be able to see what was behind him.
Seems like I recall someone going through the hoops with the CHR flywheel and result was that they would now machine theirs to fit the Fiero application. I don't recall who that was however. I asume the Spec unit is aluminu, faced? If so I would be concerned with durability with the agressive Spec 3 type disk. how about the ring gear on the Spec.... steel or aluminum?
Thanks, Russ
aluminum with a bolted on steel friction surface and steel ring gear. it really looks like a quality unit. here is a pic:
Originally posted by Russ544: Where did you dab silicone on the intake manifold? With a dry setup like this I saw no need and just installed everything as supplied.
I'm trying to decide on a couple things that I could use some input on: Steel flywheel from CHRF or aluminum Spec unit? ( I'll likely use a 2 or 3+ Spec disc.) Air cleaner and housing? how about the cad unit from a Deville or?
Not that it takes RTV on the manifold... it takes 4 dabs on the whole engine. Two under the front cover gasket where that gasker meets the case half seals and two under the rear main seal, also where that seal meets the case half seals.
What cptsnoopy said... The CHRF flywheel is the proper thickness for RWD application. It would have to be faced, just like a Camaro flywheel with 3800 swap. Wanna go Tilton or QM? A widebody Northstar Fiero needs a dual disk 7.25" clutch...
I think a good filter/intake tube setup would be a fabbed tube going through the fender where the stock Fiero unti came through with a universal K&N behind the Q-panel.
Is there any chance you know the dimensions of the front end??? Bout how much wider is the new fascia and flare??
Sorry pavo_roddy, I had meant to reply earlier but when we went to the new page I forgot.
As measured at the center of the wheel openings the front of the widebody is 2 1/2" wider (1 1/4" per side) and the rear is 4 1/2" wider (2 1/4" per side). The front of the wb facia is pretty close to stock width but quickly flares out to meet the wider fenders.
Thanks for the pic cptsnoopy. how much does that thing weigh, and what's the price on it from Spec? I need to find time to call CHR and verify that they can supply their steel unit already setup for the Fiero. I know the CHR standard unit weighs 11 lb and costs $440.oo . (ouch).
Will, I've already set up the cool air intake system for the 4.3, so of course I'll want to use the same ductwork to provide cool air to the N* as well. A K&N really wouldn't work out well for that so I'll need some type of box to hold a flat filter. that would be a pretty big project to make a fiberglass box that would open up easily to change filters so I'm hoping to find something that can donate a basic system. On the right side I plan to set up an oil cooler to utilize the current ductwork from that side of the car
Russ
[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 05-24-2005).]
here is some cut and pastes from the spec flywheel thread. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Spec Performance Clutches, INC. 3420 Davey Allison Blvd. Hueytown, AL 35023 Orders: 1-800-828-4379 "this phone may not be working right just yet" Tech: 205-491-8581 Fax: 205-491-8593 Email: sales@specclutch.com
The final price for the Flywheel is going to be $399 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8.00 lbs - Flywheel Assembly --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- David Norton was the guy to talk to at spec clutch. tell him that your a pff member and there may be a discount. the price listed above was quoted on 09/28/2004 I am pretty sure that I got my flywheel/stage 3HK clutch setup for under $700 using a house scale, i found the flywheel to be closer to 10lbs but that is not very accurate.
Well I ordered a flywheel today from CHRF. I could have gone with the Spec aluminum also, but I've delt with Spec before and after talking with Allan from CHRF there was really no choice to be made. given a choice, I'll always go with a supplier who knows his product and is willing to share his knowledge. CHRF certainly came through on that count for me. CHRF can now supply a steel flywheel (11lb) which is machined for the Fiero application at the current cost of $375.oo . I've used the Spec clutch before with good results, so I will use one on this project as well but CHRF can supply a Mccloud 9 11/16" unit that they use in their own sand rails with near 400 HP if prefered.
In hindsight, that's probably what we should have done instead of going to SPEC. SPEC is WAY disorganized and our contact was a confused mofo who didn't give a dern.
In hindsight, that's probably what we should have done instead of going to SPEC. SPEC is WAY disorganized and our contact was a confused mofo who didn't give a dern.
I don't think it was just your contact. it seems to be a universal problem with them. They do make a good product, but without support from the sales people it's almost not worth the effort.
Russ
EDIT: I've bought my last Spec product unless they get their act together in a major way. I just got off the phone with a "tech" who had to ask someone else if there was a new stage 3 clutch now. then they must have had a conference to decide how much it was and which one I would need..... oh ya... "I guess we're out of stock on that one right now so it will be 4 weeks before we can ship those out." I called Allen at CHRF back and added one of his clutch packages to my flywheel order. it took about 2 minutes.
vent mode off, Russ
[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 05-27-2005).]
Although I'll be using the stock Deville exhaust manifold on the front I didn't like the rear one so I whipped this one up today. It's nothing fancy, but the exit position will be much easier to work with, and more efficient for the full dual exhaust I have planned. I still need to pick up a collector and the mufflers, but this is a start. I'll be tossing out the original pipe that goes under the engine and replacing it with 2 1/2" tubing in more or less the fashion layed out in the pics.
I used up the last of my 100lb bag of sand today blasting the spare suspension components, and also got them all painted up again, but haven't reassembled that part yet. I'll be watching Danica Patrick win Indy tomorrow but maybe Monday I'll get some more work done
what i can't get over here is the quality. everything you have done so far has been top notch. i have seen a lot of neat projects on the forum that have been somewhat cobbled together. still cool, but your attention to the details has put this car of yours on a calibur few have achieved. keep it up man, you have one fantastic Fiero in the making!!
edit; hope that did not come off as cheeze. i meant it though
[This message has been edited by FieroMonkey (edited 05-29-2005).]
what i can't get over here is the quality. everything you have done so far has been top notch. i have seen a lot of neat projects on the forum that have been somewhat cobbled together. still cool, but your attention to the details has put this car of yours on a calibur few have achieved. keep it up man, you have one fantastic Fiero in the making!!
edit; hope that did not come off as cheeze. i meant it though
Thanks FieroMonkey. it does mean a lot to me when people acknowledge my efforts. I try to make each car I build better than the last. the perfect one eludes me but that's what keeps me building new ones I guess. I don't recall who said it, but a quote I heard many years ago sums it up. "the worst thing that can happen to a person is to achieve their goals".
Now I'm sounding cheezy. it must be the finish of that Indy 500 10 minutes ago. I was cheering loudly for Danica to win that thing there towards the end. boy howdie what a job she did though. I thought she had it after that last pass after the restart with 12 to go. I guess she'll have to came back and get em' next year
Russ
[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 05-29-2005).]
this thing looks nasty (as in good )... i think of the work i have to put into my car to make it just run then look at what some of you guys do with theese cars its... its aww inspiring
Well... it's finally happened.... I've gone off the deep end. I became obsessed with finishing the headers today but didn't have a reducer or even any suitable material to make one from................. I did have a bunch of smaller exhaust tubing however so the pattern was made, the pieces cut out from two pieces of 2 1/4" pipe which were then welded together to make one large piece. Then it was hammered on, over an improvised mandrel, for several hours until it looked like a reducer. Not bad for a $10.00 part
With the rear header work behind me I cut the end off the old cross-under pipe and welded it on some 2 1/4" pipe to reroute that half of the system back to the hoop in the cradle, ready for future muffler attachment. Although not shown here, the EGR tube previously attached to the Cads cross-under pipe, but now that that piece has hit the dumpster the EGR will be moved to the rear header near the new collector. I've removed the "spud" from the old pipe and will weld it into the collector. the original egr flex pipe will fit with only minor bending.
The stock front manifold will serve duty in it's new Fiero home and provide a spot for the O2 sensor (only one is needed with the Holly computer that I plan to use).
Machine, There's a secret to this stuff. I absolutly hate working on my daily driver (2000 blazer), but when it comes to my "toys" I find it relaxing and enjoyable (and therefore productive) to work on them.
as long as I'm here, here is a pic of the EGR hookup I mentioned:
Russ544, does your front exhoust manifold have a heat shield protection? Or what we see in the picture is the actual casting?
BTW what year is it?
Thanks! JG
That's a 98 piece but the 97 I had previously also had the identical part. It's actually an interesting bit of construction as it's made from the two main stamped pieces of stainless, and several smaller bits, which are then welded together to form the part. The only cast part of it is the lower flange where the pipe bolts on. I'm not sure, but it appears that the whole part may also be double thickness. I cut the flange off the other side to make the header so I may have to disect that one just for curiosity. I'll let you know what I find.
I'll admit I was a bit lazy today, but I'm still amazed that it took all day just to modify the E-brake system. With the crossmember moved forward and the motor in place there's a very narrow path remaining in which to run the cables without hitting anything. in their original position a large hole in the oil filter would be required for the cable to pass through.
Much of my time today involved planning, measuring and re-measuring, but it all payed off in the end. The path required for the left cable ends up square in the middle of the front wall of the remaining piece of Fiero crossmember, so the wall was cut out and extended forward an inch, then a new cable retainer was welded in. The right side was pretty simple in comparison, just requireing a new cable support bracket to be welded and braced into the proper location. The trial fit looks good, so the cradel can come back out now to be made pretty again.
Originally posted by Russ 544: It's already a hotrod Tedd, it's just becoming a hotter-rod
I knew that, just teasing you a bit!
quote
Originally posted by Russ544: Did you ever get that second WB kit sent off to it's new owner? Assuming it's been delivered, have you heard how he's coming along with it?
Yep, finished it late Jan. or early Feb., don't recall which exactly. The man put a $500 dp on it and when finished, I delivered it to Doug. Doug has not heard from him since. Seems to have dissapeared! Doug tried calling him, emailing him and I believe writing him, all with no response. So we don't really know what the situation is, only that he hasn't been back in contact with Doug. I guess Doug's been taking it to shows and such as a display model. That's all I know, so that's all I can tell ya!
Can't wait to see your finished project, it's gonna be the bomb!
That's a 98 piece but the 97 I had previously also had the identical part. It's actually an interesting bit of construction as it's made from the two main stamped pieces of stainless, and several smaller bits, which are then welded together to form the part. The only cast part of it is the lower flange where the pipe bolts on. I'm not sure, but it appears that the whole part may also be double thickness. I cut the flange off the other side to make the header so I may have to disect that one just for curiosity. I'll let you know what I find.
Russ
After a 60 hour work week I decided to go on cruise mode today. between naps I removed some parts I'll need for the swap from a parts car like 4 cyl fuel lines, brake vac hose assy, throttle cable, the main engine wire harness and a few brackets. Beast had peaked my curiosity about the exhaust manifold construction so I used a reciprocating saw to hack off one runner. as I suspected it is double wall construction right up to where the flange was welded on. cool
[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 06-04-2005).]
I worked at my business from 6 -10 again today so it was another cruise day on the N* project. I did get the cradel cleaned up and repainted after the E-brake welding, and bolted the engine down to it for (perhaps) the last time. I also did a little work on the dipstick, as it looked like it would be pretty hard to reach where it was originally. I first straightened out the tube and then bent it to go up between #6 and 8 exhaust port. that gained me a couple inches and should be a bit easier to reach now. About three more weeks of long hours at work for me and I should be able to devote more time to this. By that time the clutch, flywheel and Holley computer system should be here, so then things should really start to roll
[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 06-05-2005).]
I can see a light at the end of the tunnel at work now, so I took a day off today and puttered on the car a bit. I cheated the engine over to the left a tad too much when I built my sbc car and had a small problem with the cv joint bottoming out under acceleration. it wouldn't take long to destroy an axle if this were allowed to continue, so I figured out a way to shorten the left axle by about 5/8" without having custom axles made up. Now that I'm building this Northstar project, that lesson \has come in handy, as the 88 chassis is even tighter than the earlier models and the Northstar needs every bit of "cheating" you can get away with to place the engine further to the left and out of reach of the right hand shock tower. A 1/2" or so can easily be taken up by the cv joint, but more than that requires some alterations to the LH axle. What I did was to disassemble the left axle and cut (grind) new snap ring grooves as far in on each end of the splines as possible. this ends up being just over 1/4" on each end. with the new grooves cut, the ends of the axle can be shortened by a like amount which gives the tripot about 5/8" more clearance before it bottoms out in it's housing. I did some measuring today and it appears that I'll be able to get away without any cutting of the shock tower at all. I may have to remove a small piece of the side of the tower cap, just to give a little wiggle room for the cyl head, but that's about it.
stock axle compared to modified.
I received an invoice from CHRF on Friday for the flywheel, clutch, computer and wiring harness, so I expect to see brown on monday or tues with a box of toys in tow. hang on tight... here we go
CHRF supplied the clutch, pressure plate and custom flywheel. they all look great. the disk is a dual friction style with Kevlar pucks on one side and full organic on the other.
The Holly Commander and the wireing harness also came in. guess I'll be doing some reading for a few days .
PS: after doing a little reading and placing the wire harness on the engine I feel very happy about going with the Holly/CHRF system. I'm not nearly as concerned with the electronics portion of this project as I once was. CHRF did a great job of setting up the system to get it up and running with a minimum of frustration.
I can't wait to see the finished (I use the term loosely ) product. If you wire the car like you've done everything else, that Commander will look nice enough to be factory. Excellent job on everything! --Bryson
Thanks Bryson. I just bought a used stock Fiero engine wireing harness from Fierosforever, so when that gets here I'll be able to "merge" it with the CHRF harness to where it will look original. I plan to route the wireing through the original location in the firewall and place the Holly computer in the stock Fiero location so, ya, it should look very much like a factory installation. I do put a lot of thought and effort in making things look like OEM whenever possible. I love it when I can convince a hot-rodder that "ya... the V-8 (in my sbc car) was a really rare Fiero option. only a few were ever made" and have them actually believe it.
[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 06-15-2005).]
I managed a couple small projects this weekend. One project was to cut a new gravel shield from a sheet of aluminum for the belhousing. There isn't much room behind the N flywheel, so the center cutout portion has to be fit up around the block casting instead of the crank flange. (if anyone wants to make one I made a poster board pattern).
The other accomplishment was a bit more involved. A buddy of mine owns a muffler shop, so I was able to get a pair of Dynomax super-turbo mufflers, which have a nice mellow tone, for ~ $40.oo each. With those, a pile of mandrel bends, and my new Miller 175 welder, an exhaust system was born . With the soft motor mounts I'm using I expect the engine to move around quite a bit so to help avoid tubing cracks I made brackets to bolt the two mufflers together to stiffen things up a bit and then suspended them at each tailpipe with dual springs to the cradle to offset the hanging weight. I like the sound of a system with a crossover, and a few horsepower are released as well, so one was squeezed in over the top of the mufflers. The flanges allow each muffler to be removed independently.
I'll be using stock Fiero GT exhaust tips, but of course those won't go on until the whole lump goes into the car so they can be lined up properly.
[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 06-20-2005).]
Question: are you going to cut the trunk out in order for that set up to fit under the car ?I am doing a 5.1 reinstall but it will have a twin turbo just about where the exhaust was then I will have to attatch a flowmaster behind the turbos so I have no other choice but chop the trunk.
Question: are you going to cut the trunk out in order for that set up to fit under the car ?I am doing a 5.1 reinstall but it will have a twin turbo just about where the exhaust was then I will have to attatch a flowmaster behind the turbos so I have no other choice but chop the trunk.
The lower 1/2 of the trunk, up to the "shelf", will have to go. I'll install a 1/2" insulation sheet under the new floor of the trunk, which leaves about 1" clearance to the crossover pipe. there will be about 1 1/2" clearance behind the mufflers as I like to leave the rear wall of the trunk intack to serve as a heat shield.
[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 06-20-2005).]
PS: You know how something will just nag at you for no reason? After dinner I just had to go back out into the shop and change the angle of the crossover pipe where it joins the cross-under pipe. The entry angle wasn't correct, but in reality it won't make a diddly difference.... except that now it won't nag and annoy me LOL .
[This message has been edited by Russ544 (edited 06-19-2005).]
Its all good dude..............
