Poly motor mounts I won these at a raffel at Westfest a year ago, they didn't line up right as the holes are off on one of the mounts so I had to drill new holes.
Here are my first impressions of the new 3.4 swap. I took the vehicle for a test drive this morning and everything seemed good. After driving the car for awhile, when I came to a stop the car would die. It also idle about 700 RPM when stopped at a light. Once I stepped on the gas, the car hesitated to take off. After a few more drives, the now the car would stall at every opportunity. It would not stay on for nothing. I checked everything once again, I even changed the AIC with another I had and nothing. Lastly, the only thing really non stock or modified was the TB. I removed it and put the old back one on and no more problems stalling. The vehicle idles 100% better. But, whenever I do stop at a light, the RPM's do drop to 700. That really sucks cause the noise inside the car is unbearable. I will continue to drive more and more to see what happens. I still can't drop the hammer yet since I rebuilt the engine but it feels a lot more powerful across the band. I'll keep everyone posted.
OK, first crank in the morning and not a good result. Car started fine and then idle weird then stalled. Once the car got warm it idle ok but not were it needs to be. I'll continue to troubleshoot the problem.
A question? What must you do whit the hole next to the oil filter (top left) If you put on the oil filter it's stil open see photo below It is not the conction to the oil presure sensor! (just below that)
other than the oil press sensor hole there are no other oil holes by the filter.
As for boost, I am running about 6lbs now, I am slowly turning it up. And for fuel management I am using an 85 ECM with a knock sensor, I wrote my own chip.
so how do you install a knock sensor with timing retarding abilaties ???? in detail please. picks are always good
Knock sensors come on a 3.4L block, one step down. you need to get an ESC controller (from a car with a knock sensor) usally located on or by the brake booster. There is a thread on wireing up a knock sensor for the 85 ecm. Only an 85 ECM has knock capabillities. In the 85 ECM code you can toggle a switch, knock sensor. then you have to add to the code how much timing to take out and how fast, and how fast to return the timing. then add the wire from the knock sensor to the ESC then to the ECM, Mine is added in my wireing harness, and my ESC sits next to my ECM Mine looks like it came stock execpt the blue wire loom.
Do you have any pics of the car that my former 3.4 went into? Just curious... It is the second engine of mine that has been inside 3 cars
I liked my 3.4 But when the clutch went, I figured it was time to move on to better, though not necessarily bigger... It's been a long year in the making, but it is not far from done.
Look at the thickness of this 2.8 block. It is just thick enough for the pan gasket.
Now look at the 3.4 block. You can see how it comes out past the gasket. There are also better counterweights on the 3.1 crank(the 3.4 uses the 3.1 crank)
Now look at where the block mains meet the side of the block. On this 2.8 see how it tapers in.
On the 3.4 it does not taper at all, in fact it has webbing instead.
I don't have pics but the rods in a 3.4 are also alot thicker than a 2.8 rod. The chevy power manual states use can use SBC SJ rods, but the 3.4 rods are about just the same thing allready.
Well those are some of the differences between the 2.8L block and the 3.4L You can clearly see why the 3.4 is such a stronger/better block than a 2.8
Hey sardonyx, When you get down to vegas sometime this summer, I need to show you some things about my ideas on the TT4.9L. From what I can gather I found an inexpensive forged crank and many other interesting parts. Still looking for a definition file for the ECM and deciding on what ECM to use.
So If I put a 3.4 in an 86Gt automatic I would need a flexplate from an 88 or could I keep the one thats in there?
------------------ "A mobile home with a flat tire, is just a home." "If some one ask if your ticklish it doesn't matter if you say yes or no, they're still going to touch you. That's why when they ask you say something like, I have diarria! but yes I am very ticklish" How fast does a zebra have to run before it looks gray?"
Great link! I just picked up a 3.4L over the weekend and plan on using this link to guide me through the swap and engine rebuild. One question I have though, my oil filter mount on the 3.4L has a 90 degree adapter. Is there a way to eliminate this adapter and just have the filter screw onto the block? This link shows both configuration on two different 3.4L.
And yes that is the 85 ECM, if the chip has FTY it is a stick and FTX an auto.
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I bought an 85 ecm through Ebay for 20 but I couldn't tell if it was from a stick or not and the guy didn't know from the junk yard. Say it is a FTX auto, is there a way to write a program for the stick utilizing the knock sensor or is it for the trash. I figure for 20 bucks it was a good gamble. Thanks for the knowledge though.
Hows the saab intercooler doing? I've heard a lot of opinions. Good and bad. I've got one too but I wanted to locate it in the wheel well since I'll have the stage II scoops on. I wonder what the best turbo configuration is on our car. Question.... If the original air intake sucks the air into the wheel well to breathe how well will an intercooler benifit in this area since the intercooler itself doesn't have the intake vacuum and primarily needs forced air through its fans/vents for cooling? Do you think the air will still venture in the wheel well because of the scoops shape or fly on by? I was thinking of adding a little clear tinted scoop, kind of like a window drip guard. Of course not that big nor the its shape. Just an example for a visual to help guide the air into that area. What do you think.
I noticed the location of yours but I was thinking to keep the engine vents clear (I even cut the bottom second set of louvers off them) to maintain a cooler engine compartment. Thinking heat rises.
Add one more swap for this page, in progress. 87 Gt, the original 2..8 went almost 200,000 miles, and then dumped antifreeze due to the intake gasket. The information here has been terribly helpful, going with a stock rebuild on the 3.4. The motor is done, and now in process of transferring all the exterior parts from the 2.8. There is a lot of stuff on these little motors. I am going back and forth on 2 issues. No. 1, which injectors to use, and whether or not to take a chance on using them as they are or sending them off to be cleaned. No. 2. Do I feel lucky enough to drill the starter holes as lots of other folks have done, or do I buy the starter jig?
Anyway, just wanted to say thanks for all the info, it has been fun reading it beginning to end.
Duane
[This message has been edited by duanew (edited 07-04-2008).]
I read through the thread but it didn't answer a few questions I had. When wiring it up, use the stock 2.8 computer and 2.8 harness or 3.4 computer and 3.4 harness or some combination? I read that it is all plug and play but what parts are really used? Also no need to retune the computer? Thanks
[This message has been edited by Riddick85 (edited 07-06-2008).]
My 2.8 is pissing me off and this 3.4l swap has caught my eye and I just wanted to ask a few questions to see if this is the right swap for me.
I love the simplicity and economy of this swap and I love how I can utilize most of the parts I already have for my 2.8. The biggest problem for me is I want an engine that has 180-200hp NA with the torque to match. So I would like to know what this engine is capable of and what needs to be done to it in order to get to 180+ hp mark.
What is the difference between the 3.4 iron head and the 3.4 alluminum (is it pretty much the same deal as the 3.1 to the 3100?)
On my 2.8 the valve covers leak like a sieve even though I just put new gaskets on them. I've spoken to some other guys and they say the 2.8 is notorious for leaking at the valve cover. Does the 3.4 have this problem?
On and general automotive mechanics note, I was wondering if someone could explain to me more about rocker arms, rods and lifters. I don't understand why changing them increases performance or economy. What is the difference between a regular rod and a roller tipped rod. What does 1.6 arms mean? Why does swaping out one type of rocker for another change anything about the engine?
