Does anyone here with a 3.4 have the problem with the leaky valve covers?
Also does anyone have anything to say about getting this engine to 200HP? I am really interested in this swap but I would really like to have that kind of power.
Thanks again,
I know I'm responding to this a few months after the fact. but here's what you'd need for a 200 hp 3.4L V6 (iron head style) Trueleo intake, Trueleo or West Coast Fiero Headers, 272 Camshaft, roller rockers (stock ratio with the 272 cam), hardened pushrods, new lifters, HD valve springs, and a good tune. may actually hit over 200hp depending on temp, elevation, and tune...
OR for a more undescriptive basic general list:
headers, cam, roller rockers, tune
later in it's life depending on how the next year goes for me, I'll be dual a dual throttle body set up, making a custom down pipe myself, higher ratio roller rockers, and getting the computer tuned.
I already have Sprint Headers/manifold, because I found the trueleos to be too much of a pain, and be waaaay to cramped in the engine bay for my tastes.
To sardonyx247 (and others that have posted), thanks for the thread with all the pictures and what not.
Ok I started my 3.4l swap into my 88 GT a few days ago, however I am using the crate S10 upgrade motor, GM part number 12363230 and just wanted to indicated the few differences here in case others follow this path.
First thing I noticed is that the timing cover does not need to be changed to allow for the Fiero water pump. Seems the S10 flows the same direction. So I figured, already ahead in the game (there also was no plug installed in the distributor hole) . Got the lower intake installed and a few other little things and then I wanted to mount the front mount/bracket. Noticed that there was no way this was going to fit without major impact modification. looking through pictures in this thread I noticed that the F-body oil pan is different in shape as it has a small 'step' up towards the crank near the front whereas the S10 upgrade motor does not - see picture:
Anyways, there it is - don't see any other differences (yet) - but just wanted to add this to the info in this thread.
There is a brass bushing pressed into the end of the crank which will have to be removed so that the torque converter will fit (or the alignment tool for clutch disc). Seems to be holding in there pretty good and the only method I could think of right now was to cut through the brass and knock out a section, which then made it easier to knock out the rest.
The diameter of the crank hole is correct once the brass bushing is removed when compared to my 2.8l.
In this picture you can see I have cut through the brass already before knock ing out (used a hacksaw blade):
[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 04-08-2014).]
There is a brass bushing pressed into the end of the crank which will have to be removed so that the torque converter will fit (or the alignment tool for clutch disc). Seems to be holding in there pretty good and the only method I could think of right now was to cut through the brass and knock out a section, which then made it easier to knock out the rest.
The diameter of the crank hole is correct once the brass bushing is removed when compared to my 2.8l.
In this picture you can see I have cut through the brass already before knock ing out (used a hacksaw blade):
I had to do this once. I drilled threw with a real small bit, then used a flat screw driver and a hammer to finish it up. What a pain.
When I stuffed a 3.4 into a 1956 MG, I useed the Fiero valve covers - they look a heck of a lot better than the stamped steel used on the 3.4 engines. You just need the right bolts and you need to grind a tad off the underside of the upper plenum.
On the upgrade crate motor, it looks like there's a plug where the crankshaft position sensor would go in the 93-95 Firebird/Camaro engine, does the crankshaft on the crate engine have the reluctor wheel on it for DIS ignition (or a Fiero swap with a 7730 ECM)?
Originally posted by josef644: I had to do this once. I drilled threw with a real small bit, then used a flat screw driver and a hammer to finish it up. What a pain.
The sad part is, after I cut the bushing I was talking with the neighbour and he said that there is a far easier way to remove the pilot bushing. He said you find a shaft that will fit the opening (wood, metal - didn't matter) pack the opening with grease and pound the shaft in which will compress the grease and push the bushing out.
quote
Originally posted by RWDPLZ:
On the upgrade crate motor, it looks like there's a plug where the crankshaft position sensor would go in the 93-95 Firebird/Camaro engine, does the crankshaft on the crate engine have the reluctor wheel on it for DIS ignition (or a Fiero swap with a 7730 ECM)?
No, the S10 crate is made for a carb/distributor setup.
[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 03-05-2012).]
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose: looking through pictures in this thread I noticed that the F-body oil pan is different in shape as it has a small 'step' up towards the crank near the front whereas the S10 upgrade motor does not
I can second the problems with having the pilot bushing in there. I just finished installing a Camaro 3.4 in my Fiero, and the crank still had a pilot bushing in it from the old car. Upon trying to install the transmission onto the engine, it was so close, but not quite flush with the back of the block. My friend and I knew better than to cinch it up using the bolts, but we figured it was close enough already. It wasn't. Apparently, the input shaft of the trans was hitting the pilot bushing. Cinching it up with the bolts caused this lovely situation:
That's one of the bolt holes on the transmission. Cast aluminum and odd pressure the bellhousing wasn't designed for can result in a cracked trans case. So, two bits of advice: One, remove the pilot bushing, and you won't have the problem I did... Two, if it is stuck, trust me... there's a reason you're told not to pull an engine and trans together with the bolts. We removed the pilot bushing exactly the same way- cut it up, and pop it out.
[This message has been edited by ManMadeChickens (edited 11-19-2012).]
in reading several threads pertaining to the 3.4 motor, a question: will the ob1 run the 3.4 injectors (19 lb.)?
i intended to use the distributor from the original 2.8 with the ob1 ecm but am now reconsidering... i have the 95 camaro ecm from the donor and harness (entire engine hookup, cutoff under dash)... should i stick with the dis system? (i've installed the 2.8 lower intake, middle and upper intakes on the 3.4) several differences from the 3.4... will they work with dis?
i'm sure the answers are on this site SOMEWHERE, but i've yet to find them... thanks so much for the efforts put forth... very nice to see all this assistance with nary a sales pitch in sight!
87 gt
87 se (car receiving 3.4, motor is nearly ready for install... valve covers and brackets being cleaned and painted today)...
chasgas
looking forward to joining the "3.4 crowd".......................................
[This message has been edited by chasgas (edited 09-17-2012).]
The Fiero ECM will control the 3.4L injectors. BTW they are 17lbs. To run the 3.4L ECM you have to redo the entire harness. The better way to do DIS is swap to the 7730 ECM and use the DIS code for that. (Do a search for 7730 swap) If you want to go to DIS later save the DIS coil packs, you can leave the knock sensor in the block, save the fake cam plug, and save the purple/yellow wires that go from the knock sensor to the DIS pack. Not many people have gone with the DIS setup, only a handfull of people.
thanks sardonyx247... i remembered they had 2 lbs more thrust and another thread said to use the 2.8 injectors... couldn't figure why?.. i believe i'll go with my initial thought and use the 2.8 dist/ecm...
seems to me that would lower the 3.4's hp... kinda wondering if using the 2.8 intakes will also reduce the hp?..
think about it, if the 3.4 sfi puts out 160 hp as is, i would think changing it back to a distributor mpi engine has to decrease hp?
on a side note: for those of you looking for a 3.4 (they disappear from our local yards very quickly), i placed a wanted ad in craig's list... within two days i had three to choose from... two wrecks and one hot rod looking to upgrade to a v8... i chose the adult driven wreck for $180 which included an extra set of heads just back from the local machine shop, wire harness and ecm... mains showed the most wear but were within specs, rod bearings were like new, 2 pistons removed and within specs, oil pump looked new, same for lifters and factory hone marks in the cylinders... $150 in gaskets, timing set, new fiero water pump (cooling direction)...
talk about a poor man's power plant... i can't believe a 95 motor with over a 150,000 miles was so clean and had absolutely no cylinder ridge... chevy quality improving or oil advancements? i'd bet on the oil...
As far as the HP goes, just the bigger displacement, with the 2.8 at 135HP the ratio up to a 3.4 puts the HP at 163HP, so I don't see useing the Fiero stuff being a problem.
Good call on the craigslist want ad, here in Vegas we have no shortage of 3.4Ls when I go to the junk yard I never see less than a dozen 3.4s
forgive me if this has been discussed but how do i adjust the 3.4 (95) valve lash? i've read several different techniques and need some experienced advise... my chilton's only covers the fiero years..........................
Originally posted by RWDPLZ: On the upgrade crate motor, it looks like there's a plug where the crankshaft position sensor would go in the 93-95 Firebird/Camaro engine, does the crankshaft on the crate engine have the reluctor wheel on it for DIS ignition (or a Fiero swap with a 7730 ECM)?
quote
Originally posted by Mickey_Moose: No, the S10 crate is made for a carb/distributor setup.
I'm sorry for the late response, but wanted to clear up some misinformation. GM did not make a special "reluctorless" crankshaft for the crate engine. It uses the standard production crankshaft, complete with reluctor wheel and notches. So you can pop out that plug, and install a crank position sensor if you want. And that's exactly what I did on my HT3.4 crate engine. I actually installed the whole DIS setup from a 3100 SFI V6.
[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 10-08-2012).]
forgive me if this has been discussed but how do i adjust the 3.4 (95) valve lash? i've read several different techniques and need some experienced advise... my chilton's only covers the fiero years..........................
thanks,
chasgas
You adjust it the same as a Fiero. The Haynes manual had good instructions on how to do it. I would think the Chiltons would be the same. Basicly you make sure the lifter is off the cam lobe, take out zero lash, and then 1 1/2 turns. The books will explain it more. If you need more detailed instructions, let me know.
remounting the starter on the opposite side of the block without the template or another set of hands was a "learning experience"... i never noticed the outer hole is on an angle (approximately 35 to 45 degrees)... i drilled the two holes with a hand drill and i've got to admit, that outer hole was difficult to start without it slipping down the angle... i assume the template includes some sort of "piece" that flattens it out... i thought about milling out an aluminum piece but decided against it... i threaded it from the angle side with no complications... works fine... someone with no or little experience in drilling (must be fairly precise) and tapping threads may want to consider whether to hire this work done (or at the minimum purchase the template)... just my opinion...
I used to have a link to a site that detailed the 3.4l swap from beginning to end. Had part numbers and everything required to do the 3.4l pr swap.....does anyone know what i'm talking about or can send me the link....i don't remember it having alot of pictures or anything like that but it was a very good write up....seems like i initially got the link here on the forum somewhere but can't find it now.....
i'm starting back on my 3.4l swap and hoping to complete.....i've been reading this thread but would also like a copy of that write-up as well if i can find it...the more info, the better
update: decided to install a 1982 (chevy s 10) distributor in my 3.4 instead of messing with the computer... after reading how several members have made their own intakes versus buying the two piece edlebrock, i also removed the factory aluminum intake from the donor 1982 s-10... i bored it out with a hand drill to basically a single plane intake... mounted an inch thick spacer between the intake and a carter afb 4 barrel and she fired right up... the 272 (if memory serves as it's been a while) crane cam gives the 3.4 a very distinctive sound... she ran pretty fair considering mouse nest pieces flew from the exhaust and it's only static timed... to do list grows yet again...
thanks so much to you guys for answering my questions and talking me through this process... special thanks to sardonyx247... (starter works great with no template)...
the 88 formula should be out of the garage and back in the driveway within the next couple of days... really looking forward to trying her out!!!
THANKS AGAIN,
chasgas
i apologize for no pics but by the time this self taught computer guy figured it out, well you know.......................................
After a long time again worked on the 87 t-top the car is almost ready and I can not wait for the engine to start only ordered a few parts to get ready
I love this thread and have decide on doing this myself. I do have a couple of question?
1. will the performance 85-88 V6 Sprint Manifold Set With Heat Coating from the fiero store work with this build and is it worth the extra $600 for them.
2. do you use the fiero timing chain with this build, i have read this tread but, maybe I am not seeing where you talked about it.
3. does it matter if you use the fiero 2.8 heads or the 3.4 heads on this swap?
I love this thread and have decide on doing this myself. I do have a couple of question?
1. will the performance 85-88 V6 Sprint Manifold Set With Heat Coating from the fiero store work with this build and is it worth the extra $600 for them.
2. do you use the fiero timing chain with this build, i have read this tread but, maybe I am not seeing where you talked about it.
3. does it matter if you use the fiero 2.8 heads or the 3.4 heads on this swap?
#1 not sure I still can't justify the $600
#2 Yes, the 2.8 and 3.4 are the same chains, I went with the double roller myself.
#3 they are excactly the same heads, but swap heads from side to side, so you dont have to pull/swap out the REALLY hard plug to get out. IE have the plug on the firewall side and the hole/temp sensor on the trunk side.
