This stuff is coming out good since this is the first time I have ever dug in to a Fiero V6, painted engine parts, did an engine swap(though I did a 4 to 5 speed swap in my old 84 SE), polished aluminum, or powder coated.
Engine swap threads always capture my attention. I am for one am glad that you picked a darker blue. The pale/skyblue color just did not do it for me. The darker blue looks GREAT! Keep up the good work and documentation, and hopefully we will see the end results real soon.
i have a question how many horses does the 3.4 have?
Stock, 160 horsies and something close to 200 lb-ft of torque. I can never remember the exact number. You can supe up the 3.4 with cams and such to make180-190hp, or you can go to a carburated set up like a couple members have and top out around 220hp.
Very nice build up and documentation It remembers me when I did mine. Nice blue color too! But I doubt the one in the exhaust pipes will stay anywhere like that for too long. This gives me some strenght to go back and fixup mine
I scuffed up the old powdercoat to help the stripper penitrate it.
You might be able to see the bubbleing of the old powdercoat
Here is all the stuff I used to strip off the old powdercoat. Use the green scruby on the valve covers and the wire brush on the intake. Make sure to WEAR GOGGLES and GLOVES when useing paint stripper. It BURNS when it gets on your skin, even the smallest paint flake. I know a sand blaster works the best, But I don't have one, so this is a cheap DYI guide It take a couple of coats and don't let it dry or it just turns back to hard-to-remove coating.
Hey anyone, what type of HP and TQ does one get from the 3.4 and performance numbers vs the 2.8? 0-60 and 1/4 miles times? MPG? Is it easier to modify the engine vs the 2.8? How much does these figures change with an automatic?
I LOVE pic threads....anyway that paint looks real Badass, can I have some info on what kinda paint etc? also will it stay looking like that after it gets all warmed up???
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^I won't know how the paint holds up untill I fire it up. (fingers are crossed)^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
This is the FIRST time we tried powdercoating, on a test piece. This test the pressure was too high, thats why the powder is so thin.
Here is the light we used.
It was a project to say the least. The light we used just didn't work as well as we though, the parts just did not got to curing temp. with more practice it should work. But what I had to do for my parts is: coat it, then melt the powder, then drive to where I had a deticated oven, and cured it there. it took a few trips.
[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 10-21-2005).]
This is THE VERY FIRST THING I have ever sprayed/coated. Fresh out of the oven. The colors I used came out with a nice marble effect on the valve covers.
and the sand cast was left to give it a kind of sparkle in the sun
------------------ -Chris - Custom Gun Metal 86 GT 3.4 5spd 3.4 SOLD & 4.9 PURCHASED "It's too low, too rough, too loud, drinks gas, it's totally impractical, but damn good lookin. In other words, It's almost perfect!" Build up tread or MODS w/ Pics
Here's some pics on replacing the rear main seal. The more over 50,000 miles the more you should want to replace it. You should anyway if you have the engine out since it is cheap and easy to do now than a PITA later.
The old 'Rear Main Seal'
The new one
To get the old one out push a screwdriver into the rubber seal and under the metal lip. Then carefully pry it out, my came right out with any problems, easily.
The Rear Main Seal removed
and the old one, out
The new one in. It came with a shoe horn type of install tool with it
I used a piece of wood to tap the new one down
[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 10-21-2005).]
Keep us posted. This thread hasnt died. We Are just sitting back waiting for more updates.
------------------ -Chris - Custom Gun Metal 86 GT 3.4 5spd 3.4 SOLD & 4.9 PURCHASED "It's too low, too rough, too loud, drinks gas, it's totally impractical, but damn good lookin. In other words, It's almost perfect!" Build up tread or MODS w/ Pics
Here are the heat sheilds that I have. I could not find any high enough temp paint the I liked so I left them alone. Am I missing any? Not counting the ones attached to the car.
Here are the pics from the Starter Relocation Swap. The starter has to be moved to the other side of the block on the 3.4L. So holes have to be drilled and taped.
I held up the starter, with the teeth engaged, to see how it all fits
You have to make sure that where you have it and it is DISengaged that the flywheel doesn't hit this rubber bushing in the starter....Like so
Then I used a punch to mark the center of the first hole.
Got everthing level and drilled a pilot hole. (You don't have to use a pilot hole but I just chose to)
Then when it all looked OK, I used a 21/64 drill bit for the hole.
I taped out the hole for the starter bolt. The stock size of tap is 10x1.5. I chose to tap it 3/8 and I got Grade 8 hardend bolts, since I hate it when a starter bolt breaks. I used a extension with a piece of metal wedged in it so I could get a longer reach on it.
With the first bolt in place, line up the starter again. And you want to be close to the flywheel, as you can use shims if you are too close, but if you are too far there is nothing you can do. Then tighten the first bolt and have someone hold it in place and drill the second hole.
Tapping the second hole is easier from the other side.
Excellent write-up and progress pics. I know its hard to remember to take pix while in the middle of a job. Nice to see pictures of the starter relocation, as I'd never been able to find pix before. +
------------------ Black '87 GT Auto - Daily Driver & Autocrosser Eibach springs, Koni shocks, Kosei K1s, Kumho Ecsta V700s, poly bushings, rear swaybar, front mounted battery, MSD ignition, shift-kit, custom intake scoop
It remembers me when I did mine. Nice blue color too! But I doubt the one in the exhaust pipes will stay anywhere like that for too long. This gives me some strenght to go back and fixup mine 
Great pix too! +
