Very cool write-up. Been watching this one on and off.
I just want to make one "be careful" comment. I've found a lot of the colored wire-loom to be easly melted/flammable. I believe they sell a specific high temp wire loom. I used Red loom on an 85 GT I rebuilt and the stuff literally melted off and burned on the exhaust manifolds. Besides stinking, it was a major fire hazard. I went back to the old OEM brittle stuff and it didnt melt. Just a head-up. You may want to make sure you have the high temp stuff.
This part & price list could be used as your guide. It help many forum members!I
Item Description Part # Cost Vendor Comments Powermax 2030 Camshaft and lifter kit 254122 $169.95 Summit Racing CRN-254122 Valve Springs 99848-12 $64.99 Summit Racing CRN-99848-12 Retainers 99915-12 $50.39 Summit Racing CRN-99915-12 Valve Stems Locks 99041-1 $9.50 Summit Racing CRN-99041-1 Pushrods 25621-12 $98.69 Summit Racing CRN-25621-12 Gold Race Rockers - 1.6 ratio 25759-12 $318.95 Summit Racing CRN-25759-12 Adj. Fuel Pressure Regulator - Holley 512-501 $83.95 Summit Racing HLY-512-501 17 lb. Fuel Injectors - Accel 150617 $173.69 Summit Racing ACC-150617 True Roller Double - Cloyes 220-9-3137 $94.99 Jegs 02209-3137 Chevy V6, 2.8L, 1980-91 Head Stud Bolt Kit 233-4003 $75.39 Summit Racing ARP-233-4003 Oil Pump - High Volume M95HV $57.86 City Motor Supply Melling High Volume Oil Pump Oil Pump Screen 95S3 $7.46 City Motor Supply Bore V6 Throttle Body & Plenum - 57mm N/A $120.00 Darrell Morse TB Bored to 57mm Port Middle and Lower Plenum N/A $325.00 Darrell Morse Sub. $1,650.81
This can be used as my guide for what? To empty my wallet? Those parts are expensive and this is supposed to be a cheap swap. Besides all those parts are not very matched up, first of all if you went with those mods you would need bigger injectors than 17. If you get a new cam most of the time you don't need the 1.6 rockers, as you get the lift from thew new cam.
Be careful with the blue plastic wire loom. Some of them are not very heat tolerant and could melt in the Fiero engine bay. It gets mighty hot in there.
i am doing a 3.1 conversion ... but i have a 2.8 block that is bored 30 over wit a set of big valve heads that are bowled ported and polished. the question is .... is this almost the same as your stock 3.4, or should i use a 3.4 for the next project to be better off
First of all if and with the 3.4L conversion majority of the forum members know that just throwing in the 3.4L without any mods would be very disappointing to say the least, 25hp max. is not much gain without the higher lift, larger injectors, and porting the heads and intake to gain horsepower in the upper 180's to 190's hp range.
Just swapping in the used 3.4L is a poorman's hp gain over just swapping in a used 2.8L. Majority of the forum members only do the swap knowing that the gains would be +40hp to make it a worth while project with the above mention mods. They are always looking for and wanting to break the 200hp mark.
BTW, Both the 260H cam w/1.5 ratio rockers is very similar to the 2030 cam with 1.6 ratio rockers. Secondly, only these mods with the exception of carbing the 3.4L will you be able to get to the 200hp mark. That is a far cry than the stock 160hp mark.
i am doing a 3.1 conversion ... but i have a 2.8 block that is bored 30 over wit a set of big valve heads that are bowled ported and polished. the question is .... is this almost the same as your stock 3.4, or should i use a 3.4 for the next project to be better off
thanks jimmyb
The 3.4 block is a different bore and has webbing for strength
[This message has been edited by sardonyx247 (edited 06-29-2004).]
This plug caused me the MOST trouble. It is a plug you need to take out of the 3.4 and replace with the temp sensor from the 2.8. (pic of the 2.8 sensor you need,see post right below) It is smaller than a 3/8 ratchet, so I had to grind down an extention, but I broke that three times, then I tried a craftsman extention and broke that too, I ended up sticking a magnet on the head and drilling it out. I put in the sensor and just put in a broken sensor on the other side, instead of a plug, so I could get it out if I ever wanted. Or just leave in the 3.4 sensor. Snap-on sells a tool made for this for $12.95 so If you ever do this type of swap I recomend getting this socket. (you can order online) I just did not have time to wait and destroyed the plug trying. Most come out no problem, just not mine.
Here is the plug
This sensor on the 3.4 is not used and can be left in
Your project is looking great. Can't wait to see the final product. Just wanted to let you know that that from Temp Sensor is not the right plug for the temp guage. You should look for a Temp Sender which looks like this.
The electrical plug for it looks like this.
I hope this helps you out so that you have a working temp guage.
Your project is looking great. Can't wait to see the final product. Just wanted to let you know that that from Temp Sensor is not the right plug for the temp guage. You should look for a Temp Sender which looks like this.
The electrical plug for it looks like this.
I hope this helps you out so that you have a working temp guage.
There is a adapter for the oil sender if you have A/C. You can get one at Pep Boys, MotorMite# 43228, it is labeled 5/16" to 1/4".
This plug is where the above adapter goes, a 1/4in extention fits the hole perfect
I also had to drill out this bracket, I don't know if all are like this, but it was for me. The drill bit is pointing at the hole I had to drill to make bigger.
This is where the bracket goes. (You can see the old sensor that I used as a plug)
Since I had an 87, so I have heard, and I just used the 3.4L oil pan with IMPACT PERSUASION The motor mount hits the pan, so I hit the pan (with a hammer), now it all fits. Paint's still wet, thus the darker color
I also bypassed the throtle body coolent tubes. (Not needed for the swap) They are to keep the throtle body from iceing up, but here is Vegas, ice is something you put in a drink, not something that happens outside. I just used the same rubber hoses that were there and hooked one to each side.
The other bracket to worry about, only if you have A/C, is the shock type motor mount. The 3.4 block does NOT have the lower left hole in it, where the lower A/C brkcket bolts to. Most people weld a nut on the back and grind down the head to fit. What I did was tap out the hole with a 12x1.75 tap, got a bolt to fit, and drilled the A/C bracket hole out for the bigger bolt. It works fine.
The distributor has to be transfered to the 3.4L block. There is a plug where it goes in. I used large channel locks to pull it out. It came out very easy. Then to line up the distributor, turn the crank to 0deg on the timing wheel, and point the rotor at the #1cyl.
Here are the pics of the engine with all of the brackets minus the wireing harness and exhaust. I'm finnaly caught up with all of my pics, this is where the engine sits as of now untill tommorrow
I'm in such awe that I could not muster it to reply on such a thread. With all the views it's definitely not dead, the only thing that would kill it would be you not posting any more pics. I love your swap and hope you keep puttin pictures up, it's people like me that hang in the background that are what's gettin ya 2000 views, it's obviously a well watched-over thread so keep up the good work. I'll go back to my respectable corner and watch over the thread some more .
I think a lot of us are following your progress, just not saying a lot. I check this thread every few days, and am hoping you'll keep it going right thru install and roadtest. Looks real clean and neat and oh yeah.......colorful.
How much longer before you anticipate installing it in the car, and are you doing anything special to the engine bay before installing? The engine looks really great. It really looks like a show piece. Great job
Thats one crazy dip stick you've got there. Mine is a straight tube and stick, shorter than the 2.8 dipstick, and no twists in it. On the other hand, I don't get the easy grab handle, I get a llttle loop thing. What year is your 3.4 again?
Thats one crazy dip stick you've got there. Mine is a straight tube and stick, shorter than the 2.8 dipstick, and no twists in it. On the other hand, I don't get the easy grab handle, I get a llttle loop thing. What year is your 3.4 again?
My 3.4L is a '95, the dip stick just came with it.
Thank for the comments guys/gals, It's just that no one says much, so the thread gets droped off the pages quick. I did not know if people actually looked/read it at all or just stopped due to loading times on slow internet connections, or if the 3.4L swaps have been done to death.
How much longer before you anticipate installing it in the car, and are you doing anything special to the engine bay before installing? The engine looks really great. It really looks like a show piece. Great job
I anticipate it everyday But it SHOULD be back in a couple of days
quote
Originally posted by Black-Azz-GT:
Are you mating it to a standard or auto?
Standard.....if you caught it in an earlier post, I even said the part # for the FLYWHEEL that I had to get to put it in. The 3.4L started its life out as an auto and in a camaro, so it will be much happier now
Man that looks great. I hope that you where able to fit headers into your budget. This is one of the sweatest looking 60* pushrod builds I've seen. THANKS
------------------ -Chris - Custom Gun Metal 86 GT 3.4 5spd 3.4 SOLD & 4.9 PURCHASED "It's too low, too rough, too loud, drinks gas, it's totally impractical, but damn good lookin. In other words, It's almost perfect!" Build up tread or MODS w/ Pics
I found out that one of my motor...errr......trans mounts was broke. I have heard that the 3.4L will break mounts anyway, so I used an old racing trick to fix/improve my mount. the top bracket broke off, so I knocked out the stud, drilled a hole through the rubber and the back, got a hardend bolt long enough and a thick washer. I also cut a hole in the back of the heat sheild so that I could get to the bolt. When I drilled the rubber, being soft, the hole came out a little smaller than the bit, perfect, nice tight fit. The pics below will explain it all.
The last thing that I had to do pertaining to the 3.4L swap. The bottom rightmost bolt hole in the 3.4L block is threaded, where as the 2.8L is NOT. The threads have to be drilled out so the bolt can pass through and go into the threads on the transmission. I used a 1/2in bit, which was about the size of the hole on the 2.8L
Still with the threads
After it has been drilled
I'm going to try to get it on the cradle tommorrow, then exhaust and the wireing harness. And no budget for headers, I did port port out the stock ones though. (as seen in an earlier post, this thread)
They are not the same. You keep the 3.4 heads as I beleive the flow better.
------------------ -Chris - Custom Gun Metal 86 GT 3.4 5spd 3.4 SOLD & 4.9 PURCHASED "It's too low, too rough, too loud, drinks gas, it's totally impractical, but damn good lookin. In other words, It's almost perfect!" Build up tread or MODS w/ Pics
It's kinda ironic. I was reading this post through yesterday and noting all the stuff you did so far and whatnot. Anyway to make a long story short. This morning on the way to work, my 2.8 started to make ALOT of noise, BAD NOISE. Knocking. So while I was at work I thaught about your buildup and decided what the heck, If Im going to throw another motor in; Why not a 3.4? So at around lunch time I went on Car-part.com and looked up 3.4's and there was one not too far from home. So I very cautiously drove my car home. I never let my engine above 1500 RPM's because of the HORRENDUS noise it would make, I drove 30 miles and the noises kept getting louder and louder. I cannot believe I made it home, but I did. So anyway I got in the truck, picked up the 3.4 drove home, stripped it down to the essentials, put it on a stand and drilled the starter holes. I should have it in tomarrow and driving. I'ts so strange that I was sitting here about 24 hours ago, reading this thread thinking I would never have to do this myself, yet now theres a 3.4 In my garage drilled for the Fiero. And tomarrow I will get to see what its got. The 2.8's performance Is still so fresh in my mind. I know I will get a heck of a kick with the 3.4! Thanks for the buildup thread! Your strategy for drilling the starter worked beautifully for me. Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you.
They are not the same. You keep the 3.4 heads as I beleive the flow better.
Actually all the large valve iron heads are the same, the aluminum 3.4 heads do flow better but you can not use the Fiero intake. Great thread by the way brings back lot of memories from the last year for me. Keep up the good work your almost there.
------------------ 85 GT 4-speed 3.4 pushrod, 390 Holley carb, Edlebrock intake, MSD 6A ignition. 04 Gran Prix exhaust tips, Ported manifolds and lots more to go. Richey
Here is another mod I did. I cut out part of the gaurd on the transmission, so I can slide it out with out removing the starter. It was allready broke, so I just cut that section out.
