Did you do something to increase the impedance of the components? The info I saw said they were 2 ohm... isn't that a little rough on the head unit?
I also noticed that AFTER I got them and am worried that it may eventually kill the deck. But I think I saw something about the crossover also acting like a buffer, which makes it less problematic than connecting just a 2ohm speaker directly to the deck. That may protect it from burning out. I definitely didn't want to push my luck by also putting a 2ohm load on the rear channels to the headrest speakers.
It seems you can wire a 2ohm resistor (big white ceramic rectangular one) inline on the positive lead. This will cut the volume a bit but also create a 4ohm load. http://www.ls1tech.com/foru...ex.php/t-396064.html
I really pushed the volume when I tested the system, but this car still hasn't been driven daily (engine not in yet) to really work the deck, so until then I won't really know what may happen. If the head unit gets REALLY hot, that's a good indicator it's being driven hard, and I'll probably install the 2ohm resistor.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 05-22-2007).]
Is there any real advantage to using the components up front or would something like the previously mentioned 4x6 plates work just as well in the 4x10 slot? Just curious... Infinity also makes a 4ohm plate besides the 2ohm...
Is there any real advantage to using the components up front or would something like the previously mentioned 4x6 plates work just as well in the 4x10 slot? Just curious... Infinity also makes a 4ohm plate besides the 2ohm...
You could install a 4x6 plate up front, but the maximum size of the woofer will be 3.5" or maybe 4". A 5.25" woofer can reproduce more midrange/midbass.
Good point... I was just looking and the "Reference" series component set is 4 ohm... I don't know what the sound quality difference would be though...
I am very interested in the PIE MP3 interface device.
A couple questions: - I bought a 2001 Monsoon CD player off ebay. Works great, but how can you tell for sure it has cd changer capability? - If mine is not cd changer capable do I have other options? - I see the PIE adapter only works with iPod. Are other models that work with other MP3 players? -Any chance you could post a pic of how the PIE plugs in to the back and wire harness?
A couple questions: - I bought a 2001 Monsoon CD player off ebay. Works great, but how can you tell for sure it has cd changer capability? - If mine is not cd changer capable do I have other options? - I see the PIE adapter only works with iPod. Are other models that work with other MP3 players? -Any chance you could post a pic of how the PIE plugs in to the back and wire harness?
1. I got mine from KRU ( www.replacmentradios.com ) and he tested the unit to make sure the factory CD interface works with an adapter. You may need a local radio service shop to "bench test" it for you. 2. If the CD interface does not work, I don't think there's any other way to get MP3 player to connect. 3. The interface pictured is for ANY MP3 player. It has 2 RCA jacks as an input. (I have a Dell DJ30) 4. The PIE adapter has one plug that plugs into the back on the deck. The other plug would be for the CD Changer if you had one. That's it.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 05-26-2007).]
just as a comment on the 4x6 install -- I have a set of Kappa 462.5 (i think? i don't have the box anymore, it was the top of the line plate speaker 2 years ago) installed in the rear pillars. They were a lot of "fun" to install -- you did have to do some fabrication/modifications to the housing. As I am driving them with a low pass cutoff from an amp, I wasn't too worried about super-high pressures inside the housing so I just filled the gaps with some plastic sealant. It's been a while so I've forgotten the details...but the sound is super-clear and extremely crisp for mids and highs. Very happy.
Now if only the kappa 6x9's from my grand am had a way to fit in without all this silly fabrication *sigh*. I like the write-up I've been considering the 5.25" component swap for a while. thanks!
just as a comment on the 4x6 install -- I have a set of Kappa 462.5 (i think? i don't have the box anymore, it was the top of the line plate speaker 2 years ago) installed in the rear pillars. They were a lot of "fun" to install -- you did have to do some fabrication/modifications to the housing. As I am driving them with a low pass cutoff from an amp, I wasn't too worried about super-high pressures inside the housing so I just filled the gaps with some plastic sealant. It's been a while so I've forgotten the details...but the sound is super-clear and extremely crisp for mids and highs. Very happy.
Now if only the kappa 6x9's from my grand am had a way to fit in without all this silly fabrication *sigh*. I like the write-up I've been considering the 5.25" component swap for a while. thanks!
I was wondering about that "fabrication" thing. Is there a set of component panel speakers for the B-pillar that will bolt up without modifications?
I bought one of the GM9-AUX devices. I am getting no sound
A couple questions: I have the PIE device connected to my mp3 player headphone jack. I press CD twice to switch from the CD player to the "CD changer". The display shows CD1 Track 1. I play a song thru from the MP3 player and I get nothing. Switch back to CD and sound works great.
Fierosound, good write up. I've been following this thread for a while now. I've got a few questions I've been wondering about:
1.) I actually have the "Monsoon" CD Player as well. Since it was installed by the previous owner I'm not sure how it was wired. However, one of the things that I've noticed is that the power to the rears seams like next to nothing. Does anyone know what these things are supposed "realistically" push to the front and rear channels?
2.) With the rear speakers being close to the ears (88 GT, so in the B pillars) I've noticed that the stereo imaging kinda sucks. I've got some ideas that I may bring up in another thread when I have $$ to blow, but I'm curious how you or others have dealt with this?
3.) I've got the opportunity to pick up an older (5 years or so) Pioneer Premier head unit that was top of the line way back when for cheap. IMHO I would think it would blow the "Monsoon" head unit out of the water. Also, would it be enough to power the front components you used; I've traditionally only used components with an external amp. Comments?
------------------ -Chris '85 V6 SE 4sp (SOLD) '88 GT Auto (fun car) '03 Sentra SE-R Spec V (Daily driver)
I bought one of the GM9-AUX devices. I am getting no sound
A couple questions: I have the PIE device connected to my mp3 player headphone jack. I press CD twice to switch from the CD player to the "CD changer". The display shows CD1 Track 1. I play a song thru from the MP3 player and I get nothing. Switch back to CD and sound works great.
Any ideas?
That sounds right about the display switching to CD1 Track 1. According to KRU, not all Delco units can control a changer or accept an interface.
Fierosound, good write up. I've been following this thread for a while now. I've got a few questions I've been wondering about:
1.) I actually have the "Monsoon" CD Player as well. Since it was installed by the previous owner I'm not sure how it was wired. However, one of the things that I've noticed is that the power to the rears seams like next to nothing. Does anyone know what these things are supposed "realistically" push to the front and rear channels?
2.) With the rear speakers being close to the ears (88 GT, so in the B pillars) I've noticed that the stereo imaging kinda sucks. I've got some ideas that I may bring up in another thread when I have $$ to blow, but I'm curious how you or others have dealt with this?
3.) I've got the opportunity to pick up an older (5 years or so) Pioneer Premier head unit that was top of the line way back when for cheap. IMHO I would think it would blow the "Monsoon" head unit out of the water. Also, would it be enough to power the front components you used; I've traditionally only used components with an external amp. Comments?
2. Do number 1 first, and check what you have for rear speakers. Then play with the balance of the front/rear fader.
3. Pioneers are decent units. What you get for sound depends largely on your speakers and whether they are a good match to the power you have. You want high efficiency speakers (+90db) with a power rating of about 30-40 watts or so. The cheap so called "300 watt" speakers are sometimes very inefficient (under 86db) and so they DO require lots of power to get anything.
Running 20 watts through a quality component set that handles 40 watts will sound great. Run that same 20 watts through a Walmart on sale "300 watt" cheapie, it likely won't sound any good, and most people will automatically blame the "lack of power" on the CD unit. True, the speaker is underpowered because it is not a good match, and it is likely inefficient.
Most people still think you need +500 watts for subwoofers - B.S. In my GT I'm only running 100 watts to each subwoofer and it has plenty of volume and punch. I won most of my competitions running the same subwoofers on 50 watts before I upgraded to the Mcintosh amplifier. But these subs are very efficient and rated at 150 watts. If I had 1000 watt subs - I'd NEED near 1000 watts of amplifer power.
I was looking at that sub you recommended that fits the stock enclosure and noticed its magnet is way smaller than the one one the on the rodney sub. Is it actually more powerful?
I know Pyle is crap but this may be good for this application?
I was looking at that sub you recommended that fits the stock enclosure and noticed its magnet is way smaller than the one one the on the rodney sub. Is it actually more powerful?
Rodney's sub has a dust cover on the magnet (so it looks bigger) and is 8 ohms. I don't know any other specs. The Tang Band has a Neodymium magnet. These are smaller and give you more output with less power because they are more efficient. Typically, tweeters have Neodymium magnets for this reason. Most importantly, the Tang Band subwoofer has 9.25mm of travel making it a "long throw" subwoofer. That moves a lot of air which is what gives you the bass you want.
Rodney's sub has a dust cover on the magnet (so it looks bigger) and is 8 ohms. I don't know any other specs. The Tang Band has a Neodymium magnet. These are smaller and give you more output with less power because they are more efficient. Typically, tweeters have Neodymium magnets for this reason. Most importantly, the Tang Band subwoofer has 9.25mm of travel making it a "long throw" subwoofer. That moves a lot of air which is what gives you the bass you want.
Thank you, exactly what I as looking to know. I've grown used to judging a speaker by the size of its magnet
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Made a change because I bought an 80GB iPod Video Classic. I removed the P.I.E GM9-AUX auxiliary input adapter (RCA inputs) and connected a P.I.E PXDP iPod adapter (PXHGM1 cable connects to deck). Once set up, the adapter turns on/off the iPod automatically anytime the radio is on. It also charges the iPod at the same time.
How it works. I haven't played with it extensively, but here's what I've found. The deck "sees" the iPod as a CD Changer once you switch the deck to that function. You can still control the iPod for music selections, to set it to play all songs in a Genre for example. Next/Back, Fast Forward, etc all work. I think Disk up/down functions will jump to next Playlist (I haven't created any, so I'm not sure).
Using those controls from the deck, with it's large buttons, is easier (and safer) that trying to fiddle around with the iPod control wheel.
PXDP requires a deck specific harness. PXHGM1 for 9-pin Delco units.
A couple questions: I have the PIE device connected to my mp3 player headphone jack. I press CD twice to switch from the CD player to the "CD changer". The display shows CD1 Track 1. I play a song thru from the MP3 player and I get nothing. Switch back to CD and sound works great.
Did you get this working? I had a similar problem when I first installed it. I found that disconnecting power to both the deck and interface would sometimes "reset" the deck to recognize it. Assuming everything is wired correctly AND that deck is a 96-99 unit that is CD Changer control capable, it should work.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 10-30-2007).]
The line out may be the problem. I have no line out. I used the headphone jack. Adjusting the vloume up helps alot, but still not quite right. When I get time I need to try some other unit.
Here's a comparison of the Rodney's replacement sub to the larger Tang Band subwoofer
This is a REALLy great thread.
I'm really interested in this subwoofer in particular, but I have a couple of questions. The Crown Victoria and Grand Marquis was also available with a factory subwoofer system. It ALSO happens to be a 5.25" speaker. I'm considering a new speaker for both the Crown Vic and my Pontiac Fiero. I noticed that the frequency range on this speaker only goes down to 45hz. If I was to listen to something like Prodigy or something like that, I probably wouldn't hear the really low frequency notes, would I? I have a speaker that is of lower quality, and it goes to a lower frequency. Would one of you audiophiles have an opinion on that? With that massive damper on the cone, I can only assume it'll produce a nice punch, but will it hit those LOW LOWs?
For my 88 GT I went with the Pioneer TS-C1353 5-1/4" component speakers in the front. The passenger side when in with no problems. I did run into an issue on the drivers side. The woofer has interference issues. I redesigned the template to move the woofer over about 1/2". I still have the install the factory sub box and install plate speakers in the back. I can say that I am very happy with just changing out the front speakers.
I did run into an issue on the drivers side. The woofer has interference issues. I redesigned the template to move the woofer over about 1/2".
Glad you could make it fit. I forgot to mention that magnet size will vary by manufacturer. The bigger the magnet, the more problems may occur with the fit. The Infinity's I used have small high power magnets.
What about bass blockers? I was worried about too much bass though the little speakers so I installed 600Hz high pass filters. This might have been too high. I am now thinking about taking them off or getting 300Hz.
What about bass blockers? I was worried about too much bass though the little speakers so I installed 600Hz high pass filters. This might have been too high. I am now thinking about taking them off or getting 300Hz.
Check the frequency range of the speakers in the spec sheet. You'd want the high-pass somewhere above it's low frequency limit - probably in the 100-120hz area.
I just bought an infinity koppa perfect 5.1. They are very similar to the ones you have installed, however, they can handle a little more power. I cut out the template you provided but I am having trouble fitting the speaker. The rubber trim around the speaker is hitting the Fiero speaker cover. It seems like the speaker needs to go down further to allow the speaker cover to fit properly. I also had to trim out the dash where the cut wood piece rests in order for the speaker to fit. Did you re-use the original speaker cover on your car? Did you have to trim the dash with your speakers? Does the original speaker cover fits flush with dashboard? Can you take some pictures of the installed front speakers? Thank you very much!
I also had to trim out the dash where the cut wood piece rests in order for the speaker to fit. Did you re-use the original speaker cover on your car? Did you have to trim the dash with your speakers? Does the original speaker cover fits flush with dashboard? Can you take some pictures of the installed front speakers? Thank you very much!
Look on page 1 of this thread for a picture of the installed plate. With the grill in place it looks stock, no point taking a picture of that. Of course some trimming is needed for clearance of the "basket" of the 5" midrange speaker where they overlap. Once your plate has the speaker hole cutout, it's easy enough to lay it in place and mark the area that needs trimming. Did you not do this?
I did, I trimmed the dashboard like you are showing above in order for the speaker to go all the way down; however, the plastic cover (original piece that covers the speaker) does not go down enough. Is this plastic cover what you call the "basket"? I have not trim the cover at all. I am sorry for the question, but as you can tell I am new at this and I am not too familiar with the part name. Thank you for your reply!
the plastic cover (original piece that covers the speaker) does not go down enough. Is this plastic cover what you call the "basket"? I have not trim the cover at all.
The basket is what holds the magnet on the speaker. The cover is the grill and does not need to be trimmed.
Did you check to see that the "legs" of the grill fit through their openings on the speaker plate? It sounds like one of them is hanging up if you didn't cut the plate properly. Hold the plate in your hand see if the grill's legs fit through (locations marked X)
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 11-30-2007).]
Here we're working with an existing enclosure. This Tang Band subwoofer speaker's specs call for a SEALED enclosure volume of .19 cu/ft. The Fiero sub-housing is just under at about .16 cu/ft which is why we stuff polyfill into the enclosure. It works very well. The bass is tight and crisp, but obviously not a low as it would be possible with a 10" or 12" speaker. There's compromises to be sure, but this exercise is to get more with what you have. For MORE bass, you'd need to build behind-the-seat or trunk-mounted subs.
Do you think adding bass shakers under the seats will improve the bass. What is your take on bass shakers?
Great write-up BTW!!
[This message has been edited by 3.8 SC (edited 11-30-2007).]
No more stolen stereos 
I like the write-up I've been considering the 5.25" component swap for a while. thanks!
