Your wish is my command. I exist to serve only YOU.
Oops, sorry, that what I tell my darling wife. Any how, as per your request Curly. Archie took the pic 1/8/09. I kinda like the way she looks, sporty but not too flashy. And kind of a "Stealth" vehicle, you can't hardly see that nice little LS3 engine.
~Bob
Is that an 88? If so what wheels, size and offset are they? Love White GTs
Your wish is my command. I exist to serve only YOU.
Oops, sorry, that what I tell my darling wife. Any how, as per your request Curly. Archie took the pic 1/8/09. I kinda like the way she looks, sporty but not too flashy. And kind of a "Stealth" vehicle, you can't hardly see that nice little LS3 engine.
~Bob
Thanks Bob. Yes. Your car is somewhat stealthy on the outside, but IMO with a fastbacks that's a hard task to pull off. You'd need to remove the rims and rockers, hehe.
That said, a choptop is now in order, hehe.
Comparisons;
Cary's car (closest to Bob's fastback, but chopped).
I like it Archie! Remember when we spoke back in 05 and I thought I might just do a glass insert over the engine? Well maybe I'm looking at the new next mod after I take care of the dash....
Would be cool to see what the hatch looks like on a chop. Is that a Nissan 350 rear window like Curley's?
[This message has been edited by DrCPU (edited 02-06-2009).]
I like it...At first I was not very pleased with the shape of the window and I was hoping it didn't accentuate somewhat weighted look of the GT rear quarters which is in a degree, negated by the rear quarter window .. the side view show that it does not add visual weight The rear view really compliments the tailight space and the window shape is appealling in that it progressively thickens up the pillars the lower it goes ..I am sure the paint will also compliment the mod
Do you have any prices on this hatch yet?
[This message has been edited by Erik (edited 02-07-2009).]
Our intent here is to have a hatch that is a direct bolt on & as easy to install as it can be.
There will be an outside skin & an inside skin. It also will have a steel framework glassed inside the 2 skins to make it strong & to give us something to bolt the hinges to. The inside skin will have a "Finished" look to it & will cover the trunk area using the stock trunk sealing rubber.
You'll notice that the stock Fiero rear clip (in the area where the hatch will be) is totally unmodified.
We don't really have any prices yet because we still have a lot of work to do.
A lot of people don't realize how much work, time & money it takes to make a finished, easy to use & fully functional product. Right now we're just working on the outside part of the hatch. Once we have a mold off of that & a part out of that mold. Then we'll work on the inside skin & the steel framework that will be sandwiched between the skins. A steel framework is needed to keep the "Feel" of the hatch from seeming cheap & flimsy. These types of parts are also subject to a lot of heat. I'm not worried about any heat from the engine compartment because there will be provisions for venting. However when the car is sitting out in hot sunny weather for extended periods, fiberglass can start to deform. A steel framework is needed on any product of this type. Provisions will be made for the stock Fiero key & latch. Once we have a mold off of the inside skin & a jig for the building od the steel framework, we can put the 1st one together & see if we came close. Then we'll install one onto a car to develop some kind of instructions for customers to use when installing it.
So, we're a little ways away from having any prices yet.
Originally posted by Erik: Is that an 88? If so what wheels, size and offset are they? Love White GTs
Erik, Yes, the car is a 1988. I bought her in May 2007. Right now she has about 34,000 miles on her. The wheels are BBS RG-F wheels, they are forged aluminum 16x7" with 48mm offset. Because they are forged they're very light, only 12.6lb per wheel, (Stock wheels are 18lb each). But forged wheels are expensive. The tire rack has a similar set of BBS wheels in silver 16x7 w/35mm offset, and they are $470 each! I got mine from The Tire Rack on a closeout for $369.
As far as the white paint, I have to thank Mark, AKA "Firefox" here on PFF.
He did a really great job matching the front spoiler, front hood vent, and the rocker panels to the rest of the car. It's almost impossible to tell that the car was not a completely repainted, and that the car was actually repainted in several area. Thanks again to Mark, its nice to know that quality and craftsmanship are still around.
Hello well the short answer is yes. I build all our products using Iso resins not general purpose(poly) resins that will crack, using core matt for strength. The two front pivots are so you can tilt of and still have access to the radiator, ets underneath. I build for lightweight not make something that is resin heavy. A under reinforcement is not needed as all attachments are bonded and glassed in where needed. When lowered in position its stable and holds up quite well to whatever speeds you dare go. The front brackets are designed with gas struts to go up if you incounter a steep incline such as a low driveway, so as not to damage anything structual. Thats what using a crow bar demostrates. Makes no sense to build something 1 in thick. Thanks Norm
Hello well the short answer is yes. I build all our products using Iso resins not general purpose(poly) resins that will crack, using core matt for strength. The two front pivots are so you can tilt of and still have access to the radiator, ets underneath. I build for lightweight not make something that is resin heavy. A under reinforcement is not needed as all attachments are bonded and glassed in where needed. When lowered in position its stable and holds up quite well to whatever speeds you dare go. The front brackets are designed with gas struts to go up if you incounter a steep incline such as a low driveway, so as not to damage anything structual. Thats what using a crow bar demostrates. Makes no sense to build something 1 in thick. Thanks Norm
Thanks for the reply Norm, it's always great to hear from the creator first hand. It's good to know that the front ends are well built using quality materials. I've been checking out your front ends for a few years now - keeping it on my "to get list". Just purely out of curiousity, would it be possible to construct a full carbon fiber front end? I realize of course that would probably almost double the cost. Anyways, just something that has been on my mind. Thanks
Hello Neb, Thanks and I know you have first hand knowledge of how hard its to build something like this as I believe you tried something similar on your own. To make this out of carbon fiber would be extremely expensive as you will have a hard time getting the fiber large enough without overlapping widths as the Military and Boeing are eating this stuff as fast as its made. Plus true CF is made with epoxy resins and made under vacuam and heat (autoclave oven). Also real CF parts are usually made to be painted as the sun degrades the epoxy over time, Corvette uses in the new ZR1 some outer exposed panels but the special resins cost $2000.00 a gallon. So CF parts may look good but not really practical for the street. I build a Solstice hood for a drifting team which is 48 Ibs, lighter than stock totally functional with an inner panel as the factory OEM and its not much heavier than the CF version. Thanks again Norm
Hello well the short answer is yes. I build all our products using Iso resins not general purpose(poly) resins that will crack, using core matt for strength. The two front pivots are so you can tilt of and still have access to the radiator, ets underneath. I build for lightweight not make something that is resin heavy. A under reinforcement is not needed as all attachments are bonded and glassed in where needed. When lowered in position its stable and holds up quite well to whatever speeds you dare go. The front brackets are designed with gas struts to go up if you incounter a steep incline such as a low driveway, so as not to damage anything structual. Thats what using a crow bar demostrates. Makes no sense to build something 1 in thick. Thanks Norm
I got your EMail & I removed the video because you seemed to think that I was attacking you & I was not.
We understand that when it's closed it is stable. However, With the flex in the front clip, it takes 2 people to open it. If you reach across to the center of the clip to try to open it at the base of the windshield then the clip flexes enough that sideburns pull in far enough to catch on the chassis as your trying to open it.
There has to be a way to build it so you don't need a couple of people to open it.
I know there is a balance between light weight & usability.
On a race car light weight is most important. If the panels flex too much the race team always have enough people there to remove panels if needed. If the panels have to be removed in a race then it's likely that they're going to lose anyway.
On a street car, it's harder to use the Light weight reasoning while the owner of the car Is walking around the car working on getting the clip open.
I make foam/fiberglass composite braces. They add minimal weight, can be shaped to fit in spaces that would be much more difficult to do in metal, and make the part(s) a LOT stronger.
I didn't put a lot of thought into the shape of this brace, because I was already in the hole with labor on this one, but it did the job. The hood is VERY rigid and still pretty light. Before the brace was added it was very flimsy and would have required two people to raise, like you stated the flipper requires Archie.
The bad bodywork is not my doing
[This message has been edited by toddshotrods (edited 02-08-2009).]
Sorry for any problems that have arrised from my question about the front clips flexiblity. At one time I attempted to create my own front clip and it ended before completion so I was just curious about how rigid the final product is.
Hello no problem at all, an open forum is to ask questions. Opinions are good for all of us, I just didnt want this nice thread to get Hijacked. Thanks Norm
The engine cover is looking great, Archie. I hope you plan on offering them with the rear lip spoiler. I'm assumming that will be an add-on after the base molds are made. Can't wait to see how your going to do the underside, vents, and pics of the hinges. And if your going to do an instruction video for the install, feel free to use my car.
This hatch is being designed so there are no mods needed to the outside of the stock rear clip.
I know that there is a Mad-Arch WideBody on the car we're working with but even with the WideBody the area where the hatch will be is still stock.
The the rear lip spoiler that we use with some of the WideBodies is a WideBody only part, it's not designed for the stock body. It also requires modifications to the stock rear clip for the spoiler ends. So that will be something that we'll put on your car after we're done with the hatch design & molds.
Today we were working on the package tray that will hide the trunk area & on the area where the rear window will set.
You know, there's a lot of neat stuff going on this car.
I wonder if I should just put it all in a build thread.
While they are flexible it doesn't take much to stiffen them up, I took the front brace off of the bottom of a stock hood and put it on the under side of norms hood. I could stand on one side and lift the hood and it wouldn't flex at all. Its back off now because I have to rework some of the lights but its going back in soon.
I have been looking at the stock hood hinges and I think I can cut some down and they should be as reliable as any other 24+ hinge
Our intent here is to have a hatch that is a direct bolt on & as easy to install as it can be.
There will be an outside skin & an inside skin. It also will have a steel framework glassed inside the 2 skins to make it strong & to give us something to bolt the hinges to. The inside skin will have a "Finished" look to it & will cover the trunk area using the stock trunk sealing rubber.
You'll notice that the stock Fiero rear clip (in the area where the hatch will be) is totally unmodified.
We don't really have any prices yet because we still have a lot of work to do.
A lot of people don't realize how much work, time & money it takes to make a finished, easy to use & fully functional product. Right now we're just working on the outside part of the hatch. Once we have a mold off of that & a part out of that mold. Then we'll work on the inside skin & the steel framework that will be sandwiched between the skins. A steel framework is needed to keep the "Feel" of the hatch from seeming cheap & flimsy. These types of parts are also subject to a lot of heat. I'm not worried about any heat from the engine compartment because there will be provisions for venting. However when the car is sitting out in hot sunny weather for extended periods, fiberglass can start to deform. A steel framework is needed on any product of this type. Provisions will be made for the stock Fiero key & latch. Once we have a mold off of the inside skin & a jig for the building od the steel framework, we can put the 1st one together & see if we came close. Then we'll install one onto a car to develop some kind of instructions for customers to use when installing it.
So, we're a little ways away from having any prices yet.
Archie
i like the idea of it only thing id watch for is putting to much of a slope on it like i said its a nice addon but looks very 300ZX'ish mabey some kind of a split back window or lovered set up would set it appart.
Wheels are light weight 3 piece modulars 17x8 front 17x12 rear. I thought about going w/ bigger but I couldn't justify the extra weight or cost. Besides a set of tires for these wheels cost less than $400 installed (Sumitomo HTR Z 235/40 fronts 315/35 rears) and 17s were the lightest wheels I could get to clear my Wilwood brakes. I'll post pics as soon as I recieve the wheels. As for the mirrors...you have to keep something stock so people will know it's a Fiero.
Wheels are light weight 3 piece modulars 17x8 front 17x12 rear. I thought about going w/ bigger but I couldn't justify the extra weight or cost. Besides a set of tires for these wheels cost less than $400 installed (Sumitomo HTR Z 235/40 fronts 315/35 rears) and 17s were the lightest wheels I could get to clear my Wilwood brakes. I'll post pics as soon as I recieve the wheels. As for the mirrors...you have to keep something stock so people will know it's a Fiero.
Big 12" in the back.... yeah I'm looking forward to this. What's the ETA? You got a pick of the rim sight? Spoke or mesh?
This hatch is being designed so there are no mods needed to the outside of the stock rear clip.
I know that there is a Mad-Arch WideBody on the car we're working with but even with the WideBody the area where the hatch will be is still stock.
The the rear lip spoiler that we use with some of the WideBodies is a WideBody only part, it's not designed for the stock body. It also requires modifications to the stock rear clip for the spoiler ends. So that will be something that we'll put on your car after we're done with the hatch design & molds.
Today we were working on the package tray that will hide the trunk area & on the area where the rear window will set.
You know, there's a lot of neat stuff going on this car.
I wonder if I should just put it all in a build thread.
What do you guys think????
Archie
Assuming the costs for this lid aren't astranomical... Put me down for one.
Any idea how much they'll be, and how much weight they add? I'm very interested.
As I was looking at the very nice job Archie4, I had a thought.... What about a latch like on the sunroof at the rear of the glass?? Then you could open and let hot air out.
Will ANYONE be the first to hide the engine with dark window tint??????
As I was looking at the very nice job Archie4, I had a thought.... What about a latch like on the sunroof at the rear of the glass?? Then you could open and let hot air out.
Will ANYONE be the first to hide the engine with dark window tint??????
Great stuff there Archie.
Thanks
I think having the window open like a sunroof would be way too expensive.
We'd have to find a rear window that has holes in it like the Fiero sunroof glass. Then we'd have to have a sunroof like seal all around it. Those kinds of things would run the cost up real quick.
We plan to have vents in the hatch. We are not putting in the vents yet because some people will want vents like on Madcurl's #20 & others want louvered type vents. I want to have both available & then some. So vents will not be incorporated until after the mold is made from the top skin of the hatch.
Engine compartment heat is not going to be a problem when all is said & done.
Everyone's seen the vents on Madcurl's #20. I'd be willing to bet that his engine compartment now is a lot cooler than is was with the stock Fiero GT decklid on it.
Archie
[This message has been edited by Archie (edited 02-11-2009).]
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What's the ETA? You got a pick of the rim sight? Spoke or mesh?
